Wehave 9 televisions in the house and a Genie (not Genie 2). Have had this for 9 years with no problems at all (we are aware that we can only have All of a sudden, 3 days ago, all the TVs were off (no recordings going on), went to turn our TV in the den for the evening news and got a message that there were too many active locations so we couldn't watch anything. All of the TVs had the same message. A technician from DTV came and after 5 hours, couldn't solve the problem. A new receiver replaced the old one, a new software was installed, TVs were reset a million times. At some point he had 4 TVs working and then they all went out, he put the card in and out of the receiver, checked the HDMI wires, nothing. He then disconnected 4 of the 9 mini genies and tried to start the other TVs one by one and got 2 to come on. So right now we have 4 TVs that will turn on and off, but not the other 5. Its as if the receiver is "deciding" which ones it wants to turn on. It is worth mentioning (although the technician said it didn't matter) that 3 of the TVs that come on (not at the same time, and that's fine) are Smart TVs which we just purchased a couple of months ago and the third one is a TV that has a wireless mini genie. 8 of the 9 TVs is hard wired and 1 is wireless. DTV is pushing very hard to move to Genie 2 but the maximum number of TVs we can have is 8 (7 at the same time which we don't need at all) so we would have to give up one TV. This seems incredible to have to "step down. And there's no guarantee that the Genie 2 won't have the same problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated, we are at our wits' end with this "mystery". Thank you in advance.
I have a mac mini that has the hdmi port. I have an hdmi cable ran from my mac mini to the back of the Denon avr-987. From the Denon I have a hdmi cable to my projector. When I switch to the input on the receiver the mac recognizes it and changes the resolution immediately. For some reason the projector / receiver doesnt pick up the computer and I get no signal found. I have an xbox ran the same way that works perfectly. Anybody know what I am doing wrong?
There is no reason to connect the mini to the receiver, I am guessing you want to use the project as an external display. If that is correct then make a direct connection from MM to the projector and eliminate the receiver. Please explain in more detail what you would like to do, such as, I have photographs on my MM that I would like to view on my projector, how do I do that?
If your MM has Airplay capabilities you also may be a good candidate for an AppleTV, $75 from Apple's online refurbished store. I have a library of about 500 movies that I store on my computer and use my AppleTV to connect my computer to my big screen and watch them, also view photos, listen to music through our home theater and watch content available from the AppleTV.
Firstly the AV Receiver would enable surround sound to be sent over the same HDMI cable from the Mac to the AV receiver, the AV Receiver could then output this to 5.1 speakers, and pass through the video to the projector. I have never heard of a projector that supports surround sound.
Secondly, the AV Receiver may well have multiple HDMI inputs (and other connectors) allowing multiple devices to 'share' the projector, e.g. a DVD/Blu-Ray Player, a set-top box, a games console, and of course the Mac, not to mention an Apple TV etc. In general an AV Receiver is likely to have far more connectors than a projector.
So clearly connecting the Mac mini to the AV Receiver rather than directly to the projector is a sensible scenario. Now with regards to resolving the problem. The standard behaviour of the Mac is that if it is not connected to a live display it 'turns off' the video signal and video chip in the Mac. The reasoning being that if there is no display why waste energy and time sending a signal that is not going to be received by anything. Apart from the fact that this means if you are still running software on the Mac mini and access it via Screen Sharing you will typically find the resolution drops to a lower size, it also means any video processing then has to be done by the CPU rather than the GPU and this actually includes the Screen Sharing video itself as well so Screen Sharing is then slower. It also means that audio reverts to going to the built-in sound output usually the built-in speaker but possibly the mini-jack connector if a cable is connected. This is because remember the HDMI port has been turned off due to not detecting a signal from the display.
Now in theory when the display reappears you would expect it to switch back to it. Unfortunately this is not the case especially for the audio. (Even if your lucky and the video does resume going to the HDMI port.)
By far the best solution I have come across unfortunately requires spending some money to buy a device which will trick the Mac in to thinking the display is always connected and turned on even if it is not.
Note: Switching the input to the AV Receiver to a difference source (device) means the Mac mini will no longer have a connection via the AV Receiver to the projector and will therefore think it is disconnected/turned off.
You would first get this device to 'learn' the signal from the projector, this is then saved in to the HDMI Detective+, thereafter you no longer need to provide power to the HDMI Detective+ and even if the video cable is completely disconnected from the projector or AV Receiver it will still sending the signal to the Mac mini tricking it in to thinking the projector is still connected.
While your description implies the projector is not detecting the Mac it might equally be the Mac did not detect the projector and hence is not sending a signal the projector can detect either. Regardless this solution will also eliminate any delays caused by the Mac mini and projector having to renegotiate the resolution.
I fully understand why the OP wishes to connect via his receiver however because it simply will not work I opted to not go into a long winded explanation. The bottom line is if he wants to use his Denon along he will need an AppleTV in order to get the surround sound he wishes.
The R7 has 7 user-adjustable levels and a battery life of up to 6 months. Includes Status Light, AutoMemory and TattleTale. Weighs 1.1 ounces (with battery.) Used most often on small dogs (and cats!). Kit includes an R7 receiver, 1 battery, 1 collar strap, 2 standard contact posts, and attachment accessories.
Stereo amps come in several configurations, with different names attached. This guide covers affordable integrated amps and receivers priced under $300. Though the connection options, features, and forms vary for these amps, our tests confirmed that all of our recommendations here have the power to effectively drive a typical set of bookshelf speakers to satisfying levels.
This integrated amp has good power output and works in conjunction with the WiiM Home app to stream audio over a Wi-Fi network (similar to how a Sonos system operates). Wi-Fi streaming can sound better than Bluetooth streaming, and you can play the same audio through multiple WiiM devices. The amp is also compatible with Amazon Alexa, Apple AirPlay 2, and Google Assistant systems.
Introductions of new stereo receivers are rare these days, probably because many home listeners have abandoned terrestrial radio and switched to streaming. But inexpensive stereo integrated amps are now available under a wide and seemingly ever-changing array of brand names, with new marques and models popping up like mushrooms after a winter rainstorm.
For our latest listening tests, we paired each amp with a set of Triangle Audio Borea BR03 speakers, the top pick in our bookshelf speaker guide. During our listening and usage tests, we judged the stereo amps and receivers on the following characteristics:
For all tests, we measured the maximum RMS (root mean square, a type of averaging) power, rather than the peak power that many manufacturers specify, because RMS is a more demanding and meaningful test. All the power results we give in this guide are per-channel, with both channels driven.
You can see the full results of our measurements in this spreadsheet. The chart below shows the price versus the maximum power output of our top picks at 1% total harmonic distortion (THD), which is generally considered the maximum allowable amount of distortion for an amplifier.
Whereas most integrated amps priced below $300 make significant compromises in performance and features compared with more expensive, enthusiast-oriented models, the Dayton Audio HTA100 is a fully capable stereo amp with no troublesome flaws and all the connection options we want.
It has loads of inputs. In addition to Bluetooth support, the HTA100 includes USB, optical, and coaxial digital inputs, as well as a line-level analog input and a phono input for use with a turntable. It also has a full-range subwoofer output and a quarter-inch headphone jack. You can easily access all of the inputs via dedicated push buttons on the front panel.
Like many mini amps, the WiiM Amp has a subwoofer output, but this one has an adjustable crossover that routes the bass into the subwoofer (and out of the main speakers) at any frequency from 30 Hz to 250 Hz, and it allows you to adjust the phase and volume of the subwoofer from the app. Because the bass is filtered out of the main speakers, they play louder with less distortion.
The WiiM Amp comes with a small remote that lets you adjust volume and control play/pause and track-skip functions for Wi-Fi and Bluetooth sources. The remote has a built-in microphone as well, so you can access Amazon Alexa, Apple Siri, and Google Assistant voice-command systems.
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