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So far my experience with the semi-assembled 5 tool XL is very similar to the series of utter failures that made me uninstall my MMU2. I got it a few days ago and built it over a couple days. The actual build process was quite a bit shorter than the MK4 and aside from a few things that needed a bit of clarity in the instructions it went smoothly. Since then however, there has been a large collection of problems with it. I've attempted 4 prints now, only one actually worked. Here's some of what I've bumped into so far...
At this point I'm out of ideas. Parts were assembled incorrectly with a cross threaded screw by Prusa and shipped anyway. Simple and small PLA print attempts with multiple tools always fail. The firmware is behaving oddly and differently with the same gcode. PrusaSlicer is slicing things with paths that run all over the bed for no reason. Nozzles are crashing into calibrated and level beds with a clean sheet. Wipe towers never survive even short prints. I'm out a lot of money for a printer I was very excited about for almost 2 years but that can't things it was advertised to be able to do and I'm quite sad about it.
The strike through on Prusas logo i thing is something that everyone has (me too). The problem with scratching the bed for me is random. It happens once every 3 or 4 prints. I dont think is a bed thing since when it goes haywire it scratches in a specific pattern (lines and then on a small spiral pattern) which means there is some crazy logic behind it. At the start i though it was the load cell or something but it happened to another extruder and those things are preassmbled. I'm not so sure that it is a hardware issue since everytime it happens i park the tool restart the print and its succesful.
On a happy note i like this printer when it actually prints. Quick in comparison with mmu on multitools and excellent first layer. The profiles need some work. There is a bit of oozing and stringing with the default ones.
the start gcode commands you refer to are slicer internal commands and variables to generate gcode depending on filaments, tools used, and print area. the final gcode file is standard gcode. takes a while to chew through if you want to understand what they do.
i edited mine a bit to add way more retraction when heating the initial tool (which is used for probing), added a wipe cycle before mbl, and some other small changes. working fine for single-tool applications so far, oozing (and those annoying little dots of plastic from mbl) are minimal with prusament petg.
So I sliced up a 6 color model with a single color change (M600) on tool 2. PrusaSlicer supported this well by asking which tool was being changed and even asked for a new color for that tool so it could render the sliced model in the correct colors. Very happy about that. Then I loaded up the gcode and started the print.
For full disclosure, I also spent over 12 hours printing a set of 5 full sheet single layer prints yesterday (once each for each of the 5 tools). The printer probed the bed with a spotless clean nozzle 144 times to build up its mesh data and then printed the first (and only) layer with blob shaped variances all over. To be clear there were NOT oozy filament blobs involved! I just mean the thin/high parts of the sheet were sorta blobby shaped. Some parts of each print were what I would call perfect, other parts were what I would call too high. The sales pitch of "The XL achieves a perfect first layer across the entire surface every time you start a print." is absolutely inaccurate at best. And since the vast majority of my print attempts have either the wipe tower or the object break loose from the bed if I put them in the areas I can now describe as the bed blobs (such as along the back edge) now that I've done this experiment, I would argue it's worse than my description is calling it. I imagine sometimes this is warping off the bed due to bad adhesion in the high spots, but also there are definitely stringy blobs that the nozzle will whack into and break something loose when it does. (Sometimes realizing that is a crash, other times it doesn't even know something bad happened.)
I have been keeping a bag of my print attempts with the XL. It now has 27 prints in it (excluding the 5 full sheet prints) that I've done over the last couple weeks. Literally two have worked properly all the way (both were 1 tool prints). Some were reasonably close, some required literal painters tape mid-print and babysitting to get anywhere near done, a lot of them had the USB system fail mid-print (one time it happened twice in the same print), but far and away the biggest issues are obvious failures at bed levelling. When you flip over a failed print and look at the bottom, half of the first layer looks great and the other half is high enough up off the bed that it practically looks like it was done on a different printer entirely. What it's doing when it's probing the bed with a clean nozzle is beyond me. (Please ask me how much I wish "heat all nozzles to some temp" was an option in the temperature menu to make cleaning them easier.) I don't know if I have faulty load cells or what but it's clear that the mesh data is not doing what it should be. I have triple checked my bed, busted out a level to make sure it actually is, and the variances I'm seeing are way too small for normal tightening of screws to cause. Micro-adjustments in the z-motors not small enough? Not accurate enough? Firmware applying the mesh data incorrectly? There are tons of theories and I've tried everything I can think of to fix it. Such as cleaning the steel sheet on both sides, redoing the Z calibration, making sure all of the nozzles are spotless before starting a print, redoing the "auto-home" thing, upgrading the firmware, not sure what's left.
In my various attempts I've lowered the temp by 5C at a time all the way down to 195C. It barely helped the stringing. I increased the retraction (normal retraction that is) from 0.7mm to 2.0mm. That also barely helped. As mentioned above, I used the custom tool gcode from the dog video which also slightly helped. None of these things should affect the first layer though since it's going to prep the wipe tower and then dive right into the first layer. Not much chance to have the PLA drip out between those times. I have gallons of 99% IPA that I use before literally every print. The bed is spotless.
Note that adapters based on Texas Instruments CC2652 and CC1352 chips can be flashed by putting them in the bootloader (see your adapter manual on how to do this or use the sonoff parameter with the cc2538-bsl flasher tool). When it is bootloader mode one of the following tools can be used to flash firmware image to it:
If you can stand up a working Python 3 install, the easiest tool to use in my mind is the CC2538-BSL boot loader/flash tool. The tool will scan the system for the first instance of an eligible device and automatically put it into boot loader mode.
Adapters based on CC1352 or CC2652 chips can be flashed after manually putting it in bootloader mode (see adapter manual) if not using CC2538-BSL with the sonoff parameters to make it go bootloader mode automatically. After have done that one of the following tools can be used to flash it.
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However, under certain circmunstances, you can turn it off and still get perfect prints. The main factor is the filament quality and especially how dry the material is. The moisture in the filament is the main cause for the filament leaking out of the pre-heated nozzle during travel moves and when the tool is parked. It also greatly affects stringing.
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