Hyundai Immobiliser Code

[Florio Bessinger]

Ihave a Hyundai Sonata 2002 automatic which has just broken down. What happened is that while driving the engine suddenly stopped and the check engine light turned on. I attempted to start the engine but soon after it started it died again. The next time I start it, the engine just cranks but won't start at all. The next day I attempted to start and again the engine started the first time but failed soon afterward. After that it does not start at all. Would appreciate if someone can point me on what might be wrong? I know that an exact diagnosis cant be given but just curious to find out any possible things to look for and estimated costs.

Updatesome more info I heard from another mechanic: There is no spark and no injector pulse. He believes it could be that the immobiliser is killing the spark. Not sure what that means and would appreciate if someone can give more info on what to expect and estimated costs if the above is true. Another interesting thing is that, occasionally, the engine starts but dies after a few seconds and then won't start at all for long time.

I have also found some info here but cant seem to make much out of the discussion over there. The only thing that I got is that I am having exactly the same issue. This also looks similar to my problem.

Also, this mechanic just wont give me a fault code and one of the other mechanics told me that his computer is incompatible with my car. Moreover he has pointed me to this site and told me to contact them and see if they can help me. I have no clue what to do now and I am not sure why he wants me to contact the company in the link. I will have to wait until Monday to speak to them.

I know I can't fix or diagnose it myself and I think what I am looking for is some advice on what to expect from mechanic, estimated costs and how to deal with him so that I just don't get totally ripped of.

It sounds like a fuel delivery problem. I suggest getting your fuel pump checked out or replacing it... Usually this is the type of problem that starts out small and eventually gets to the point where you are at right now. Have you noticed recently that the engine seems to have less power at high rpms? Or that maybe it has even started dieing even while you are applying throttle under hard acceleration? Otherwise you may have some other problem...

In a broader sense, it sounds like there is a communication breakdown between this shop/mechanic/business. Call AAA or your insurance company and get it towed somewhere that you can trust and will treat you better / communicate with you.

For your vehicle to start you need fuel, ignition, and compression. You can check the ignition easily by holding one of the plug wires, after removing it from the spark plug, a short distance - a quarter of an inch - from the engine block. Have an assistant crank the engine. You should see a strong spark to the block if the ignition is working OK. The fuel side is best checked by having the system connected to a fuel pressure gauge. This is the safest option because of the fire risk inherent with the fuel. Some techs however do disconnect the fuel supply line and aim it into a container, or smother the end of the pipe with a large rag to catch any fuel squirted out whilst the engine is cranked. Gauge pressure, or otherwise will show the fuel is being delivered. Compression can be assumed by checking that the cambelt is in place and rotates with the engine, staying in place and travelling evenly. Electronically your problem could be crankshaft sensor faulty, cam shaft sensor faulty, fuel injector circuit(s), fuel pump relay, fuel pump, faulty fuel gauge(no fuel), ignition system wiring, ignition switch, immobiliser, or even your engines ECU. An obtained fault code would point towards the problem area, and say where the checks should start.

Imported a Storia touring ecu due to the k3ve2 engines over in Japan tuned for 81kw vs 74kw for aud. was going to put it in my Sirion before my engine went bang. Now Mick is getting it and going to put it in his awd conversion. The way I knew about was using the DS-21 diagnosis tool to reset both ecu and immobiliser rolling code and then the next master key you use will become the key that is programmed key.

It was using a ve2 ecu from japan for an aussie delivered ve2, but, now mick will be using it for a euro delivered ve2. The JDM ve2 is higher rated due to being tuned for 98-100ron vs 95ron here in Aus and in Europe.

I'm having some starting issues with my 2007 Hyundai Getz 1.6L manual.

This issue has been pretty persistent for about a year. My car will crank fine but will not fire. Sometimes after a few goes it will eventually start and sometimes it won't start at all. I have noticed this will occur on cold mornings especially. I've had a diagnostic scan done and was only told the battery was flat and that's the cause of the car not starting. However I have replaced the battery a few months ago and do drive the car daily. I believe it could be an immobiliser issue. The immobiliser icon on the dash will sometimes flash so the car won't start. But if that light is solid it will start. I've replaced the battery in my car key and the spare key. Also note no other lights are visible.

The battery in your key only powers the remote unlock function.

The immobiliser needs no battery in the key to operate, so if you had an immobiliser problem before, it's possible you still have an immobiliser problem.

If you lock with the remote it sets the alarm as well (and probably the immobiliser). But if you then unlock with the key it does not cancel the alarm and you will probably wake the neighbours when you open a door.

Some cars require specialised software to scan properly.

I get 3 error codes when scanning my daily car with the android app called torque. Using forscan and a pc i get several more all minor. and none of them show a fault code.

Since you have been told its the battery, i would remove the cables from it, started with the negative side, black cable, then the red side. clean the terminals on the battery, ans the lugs on the cable, apply some grease to the battery terminals, even Vaseline will help. rettach the cables starting with the positive , the red cable first.

My iLoad had similar issues a year or so ago.....it was the HID token I had on the keyring. It first appeared a day after I put it on my keyring and disappeared a few days later when I took it off as a possible cause remedy.

Dragging up this thread for peoples future reference. Immobiliser issues are common on Hyundai's of this vintage. An ECU code check in this case may reveal codes such a p1690 or p1693. Immobiliser eeprom error and or immobiliser transponder error. If it does then best practice is to replace the coil antenna (Black ring around the barrel) and also the key. If there are no codes logged in the ECU, then it is quite possible that the crankshaft position sensor is defective as they often don't log a code on these Alpha motor Hyundai's. These are the most common things that will cause the concern described. If it's not these two things then further investigation is required.

+1

I have seen this a number of times before on this vintage Hyundai.

I suspect the actual cause is the connector which connects the coil antenna onto the nearby circuit board.

A friend of mine has one of these and took it to a number of places with this problem and nobody was able to fix it.

The problem was intermittent, and they asked me to take a look. After several attempts I traced it to this connector and soldered the wires directly onto the circuit board. It's probably been 2 years since I did this and the car hasn't missed a beat since.

Sorry I haven't updated you on my issues. I had an auto electrian look at my car and he replaced the clock Spring about 2 weeks ago. I haven't had any issues with my car starting so far. Hopefully it stays that way. Thank you so much for everyone's input :)

I had a similar issue with my daughter's Getz. In Miffotron's reply he mentions the Crankshaft position sensor. This was the problem with mine. The easy check was that if I let the car roll 6 inches or so in the driveway, then tried again, it would start first time.

When I took it for a service, I told them that, they said they checked the sensor and (cleaned/reset?) the connection at very little cost!! (no replacement parts) No problems since

An immobiliser or immobilizer is an electronic security device fitted to a motor vehicle that prevents the engine from being started unless the correct key (transponder or smart key) is present. This prevents the vehicle from being "hot wired" after entry has been achieved and thus reduces motor vehicle theft. Research shows that the uniform application of immobilisers reduced the rate of car theft by 40%.[1]

The electric immobiliser/alarm system was invented by St. George Evans and Edward Birkenbuel and patented in 1919.[2] They developed a 3x3 grid of double-contact switches on a panel mounted inside the car so when the ignition switch was activated, current from the battery (or magneto) went to the spark plugs allowing the engine to start, or immobilizing the vehicle and sounding the horn.[3] The system settings could be changed each time the car was driven.[3] Modern immobiliser systems are automatic, meaning the owner does not have to remember to activate it.[4][5]

Early models used a static code in the ignition key (or key fob) which was recognised by an RFID loop ( transponder ) around the lock barrel and checked against the vehicle's engine control unit (ECU) for a match. If the code is unrecognised, the ECU will not allow fuel to flow and ignition to take place.

Later models use rolling codes or advanced cryptography to defeat copying of the code from the key or ECU (smart key).[citation needed] The microcircuit inside the key is activated by a small electromagnetic field which induces current to flow inside the key body, which in turn broadcasts a unique binary code, which is read by the automobile's ECU. When the ECU determines that the coded key is both current and valid, the ECU activates the fuel-injection sequence.[citation needed]

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