Jl Audio Loc-22 Install
Octavia Leithoff
High-quality Line Output Converter
The JL Audio LoC-22 is a high-quality line output converter integrating aftermarket audio components into factory-installed sound systems. With its compact size and robust construction, the LoC-22 offers a seamless solution for adding amplifiers and subwoofers to a vehicle's audio setup.
The LoC-22 features two channels of high-level input and two channels of low-level output, allowing for precise signal conversion without sacrificing audio quality. It utilizes advanced circuitry to maintain signal integrity and minimize noise and distortion, ensuring clean and accurate sound reproduction.
Selectable Summing Feature
The LoC-22 also includes a selectable summing feature, which combines stereo signals into a mono output, ideal for powering subwoofers. It offers adjustable gain controls and a remote turn-on trigger, providing further customization options and convenience.
The JL Audio LoC-22 line output converter is a reliable and versatile solution for integrating aftermarket audio components into factory sound systems. Its compact design, advanced features, and easy installation make it an excellent choice for enhancing audio performance in any vehicle.
I just upgraded to Ubuntu 22.04 from 21.10 today. After upgrade, HDMI Audio setting is not playing any sound through TV Speakers. Video playback on Plex is also broken, stopping and starting and very jumpy. I assumed it was an issue with the upgrade, so I did a clean install of 22.04. Everything works as expected when using built in speakers, Plex video plays correctly and has sound. As soon as I change to HDMI audio output, I no longer get sound and playback on Plex breaks. This is a Dell 6540 laptop. I have swapped HDMI cables and get the same result. No issues with this laptop on 21.04 or 21.10.
I have been searching and reading up on this trying to figure out how to get my speakers to sound better along with adding an amp and sub. First question is why is there a need for 2 line out converters? I haven't found anything that points to why. I planned on picking up a 4 channel LOC but I'm not sure where the second one comes into play.
Also, for the sub and amp installation, if I am wanting better sound quality for my speakers, do I need to look at running a multi channel amp to accomplish this? Or will using the LOC with a mono amp be plenty. In past vehicles I have only ever ran mono amps and have had success but I was also able to run an aftermarket deck a lot easier than I can in my Legacy so it was never a problem.
You only need 2 LOCs if they are each 2 channel LOCs. The point is that your 4 channel amp will have an RCA cable for each speaker. If you plan on buying a 4 channel LOC then it should output 2+2 RCA outputs that will go to the different inputs on your amp and you're good with just the 1. If you were to use only a single 2 channel loc then you would no longer be able to adjust the balance/fade on each speaker in your car from your headunit. That's my understanding of it anyway. I'm waiting for 2 2-channel LOCs from amazon at the moment so I can install my 4 channel amp. I have limited experience with this stuff so maybe a more experienced member can chime in but maybe that will point you in the right direction. If there's a way to do it with just a mono amp I've never heard about it.
Shogun are you going to try running an amp for a sub as well? Or are you just running an amp for your speakers? Ideally I'd like to re-amp all 4 speakers (which sounds like 1 4 channel LOC would do the trick for those) and run anot amplified sub.
Well the plan is to add a sub/amp and re-amp the speakers as well. So I would almost assume I would be looking at something like a 6 channel LOC or a combination of LOC's to be able to have enough RCA's.
I am new to using LOC's as I've always replaced the whole stereo when running any aftermarket audio equipment. That being said, do the RCA's that come out of the LOC run to a multichannel amp? I would assume for the sub they would but I would have to guess that it would be the same for the RCA's for the speakers, correct? Or am I way out in left field? Haha.
Oh. I also watched a sonic electronix youtube video yesterday on installing a LOC and they were using I believe a 4 or 6 channel LOC with a 6 channel amp to run the speakers and sub and were going to bridge channels 5 and 6 on the amp (yet they didn't show that part in the video). Is that essentially how it would work? Or I guess if I'm using a 4 channel amp I can use the RCA y-splitter to hook up the rears together to the amp.
They also had a section of the video after they cut the wires coming out of the stereo harness and hooked up the LOC, they ran a "9-wire" from the other end of the cut wires to the amp. But they didn't really explain why or show the process of hooking those up on the opposite end.
Well if you are looking to amp everything or at least eventually, then determine your budget. There are cheap loc's and expensive ones. If you plan on keeping the oem deck forever and want it to sound the best it can, invest in an loc something like I mentioned like audio control. If it's temporary until a deck, get a 4 channel cheapo loc and use a set of rca splitters to get "6" outputs of audio. 2 would be the front and 4 would be the rear (2 for rears and 2 for sub). All an loc does is take the high level output from the deck and turn it into a low level output to go into the amplifier. This is what the rca connections already are on an aftermarket deck. Except most aftermarket decks that have 6 channel rca outputs have individual control of each set as far as crossovers and sub level control. You can pretty much do this all for an oem deck too with all the right equipment.
I didn't watch the video but, if they ran a 9 wire cable, it was most likely 8 speaker wires which make up 4 channels of + & - for the amp of the mids/highs and the remote turn on for the amplifier's. The remote is what turns power on and off on the amplifier when you turn the deck or car off. So the speaker wires all get cut in half. The wires deck side go into the loc's, get converted to low level and go to the amp input. The outputs of the amp connect to the 8 wires, go back up to the front and connect to the wires that go out to the speakers. The better the loc, the better the signal conditioning. Cheap loc's work but, they are basic basic basic to get the job done. High end loc's have circuitry to condition the signal and give you the best possible outcome of your source.
I think that last bit gives me about the best answer I was looking for. I have no plans to replace the deck due to the fact that I have the integrated digital hvac controls and have decided I don't want to spend $250+ on a new deck and the jdm kit on top of the sub and amp stuff. Way more than I want to put in when I will probably only have this care another 3 or so years.
Last question and I should be set. For the RCA's coming out of the LOC, I know a set will go to the amp for the sub, but I am assuming the others will go to the other channels on the amp as well for the speakers correct?
I think a lot of folks found time in 2020 to get some work done on their builds. I picked up my Accord early in the year after my old Buick Century showed signs of death. You guys might recall my buick build log from 2015-2019, but I went a bit crazy near the end of it with Super huge dash pods and Sls 8 door enclosures.
Well I don't plan to cut up my car that much this time around. My initial plan is a simple active 2 way + sub. I did all this work at my apartment building's parking lot so I tried to keep things manageable this year. After figuring out how the car responds I can plan next steps.
I established some priorities for applying treatment in this car. The trunk interior was treated with the cheaper NVX CLD due to the use of an IB subwoofer in the ski pass. The trunk treatment of CLD only serves to cut down on rattles outside the car. Everything facing the interior of the car was treated with better materials.
1/8th inch plastic (extruded PVC or something similar) was used to seal up the holes. I had to deform these with a heat gun to get the door trim back on. The trim panels actually extend pass the exterior mounting on the coupes. The plastic was installed with rivnuts, butyl rope, and duct seal. Duct seal is some great stuff!
I decided to cut the lip off the factory trim panel and use these silicon baffles to seal the woofer and door. I would have preferred to keep the trim panel stock and use some foam to mate the woofer mounting ring and door trim but I ran into some tolerance issues. I'm not sure if this actually matters. I think I'll take some measurements with the door time off sometime later this year to see what they do.
This car does not have a 60/40 rear split seat like most sedans. So I was concerned that I wouldn't be able to run an IB subwoofer. After a convo with @dcfis he informed me that IB works well in the coupe due to a large number of holes in the rear seat back frame. I plan to get some measurements of seat up vs down soon.
It mounts off the ski pass braces with some bolts and threaded inserts. Unfortunately, I decided to hack up the carpet here. After I install a beauty panel everything will look great but I ran out of time this year.
For those unfamiliar, 9th gen accords with the nav package output a flat signal from the HU. You simply buy a Honda connector and bypass the factory amp. Because the factory signal is balanced I bought a Loc22 to convert to unbalanced for my miniDSP. I think the 8x12 can accept balances so maybe I should have just upgraded DSPs while I was at it.
So I'm not sure what my plan is for the system. I figured I would miss running a midrange in the future and I might need to change up the amps. Given this was around October the weather on the weekends was not always great for working on the car so I decided to make a temporary amp rack and get down to some tuning and listening.
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