How to remove brass oil drain plug stuck in aluminum case?

729 views
Skip to first unread message

Andrew K

unread,
Dec 31, 2011, 3:02:57 PM12/31/11
to motvinmoto
Hello All
I took the '81 Morini out for a short ride today, put fuel stabilizer
in the fuel tank and topped it off intending to change the oil when I
got home.
But the brass oil drain plug is well and truly stuck in the aluminum
alloy engine case, tapping a six sided socket didn't work, vise grips
and a small pipe wrench also failed.
At the moment I've squared off the plug and am contemplating heating
the aluminum case with a butane torch.
The nuclear option would be laying the bike on it's side and drilling
out the plug carefully avoiding damaging the threads on the case but
I'm really hoping to avoid that drama....
Maybe braze a steel hex onto the brass plug?

Suggestions welcome.....


Andrew in Ann Arbor

jeff

unread,
Dec 31, 2011, 5:16:01 PM12/31/11
to motvi...@googlegroups.com
the good news is that typically brass and aluminum do not seize together
from any electrogalvanic reaction
so it probably a mechanical problem....

have you ever had the plug out in the past? is it possible that there is
some sort of threadlocker on the threads? if so, heat may be your only
option. be careful. aluminum likes to crack when spot heated, and brass
melts at 1500F or so, and a butane torch can get hotter than that...

if you've had it apart in the past, maybe a good dose of your favorite
penetrant (kroil/freeze-off/atf-acetone/pb blaster/etc) and some
leverage (the brazing something that you can get a longer lever on would
be good)

this might sound simple, but remember that a jarring action is
considerably better than a stretching/pulling when trying to remove
fasteners. stretching/pulling breaks stuff.
use a small sledge ammer to jar the lever, don't just try to pull hard,
that wont work.

also may want to tap the end of the plug with a brass hammer, as that
will jar the threads a little. be careful not to deform it too much

> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1416 / Virus Database: 2109/4114 - Release Date: 12/31/11
>
>

d...@gurovich.com

unread,
Dec 31, 2011, 6:21:14 PM12/31/11
to motvi...@googlegroups.com
Brazing is going to be tough. the parts to be braised must be absolutely spotless. Also, heating something to the bronze and braising will be risky as the plug could melt with the temp.

If you're going to use heat, you're going to have to make damned sure that you make it even because cast aluminum WILL crack. If it were mine, given that it's going to get cold and crappy here, I'd put it on a stand and get it eye-level. then I'd try all your favorite penetrants, and also order a new plug because I don't think this plug is coming back... Take your time.

Danilo

barratt3

unread,
Dec 31, 2011, 6:28:39 PM12/31/11
to motvi...@googlegroups.com
if you've already squared off the plug, it shouldn.t be too hard to make
a long handled square wrench that fits snug (make sure you have as much
area as possible on the 4 sides of the wrench that touches the bolt so
you dont cut into the plug head when you whack at your wrench.

> Version: 2012.0.1901 / Virus Database: 2109/4715 - Release Date: 12/31/11
>
>
>

Lor...@aol.com

unread,
Dec 31, 2011, 7:42:39 PM12/31/11
to motvi...@googlegroups.com
Andrew
Heating the alloy case would be your best option at this point.  Let the case expand around the brass before you think of drilling into the plug.  Also spray some penetrating fluid around the plug.
 
Dave in Chelsea
Reply all
Reply to author
Forward
0 new messages