White 444 One Tap Fire Macro Gfx Download
Julia Heaslet
No use the mythic+ talents and macro for aoe. If you want something to use on trash that wont use major cds just open mythic+ macro and change name and hit save. Then open the newly named macro and remove the major cds, it shouldnt effect the macro.
Another question!
Until next week I'm computerless, so relying on the the camera 3" screen to evaluate what's going on. I'm also unable to post samples.
I was out earlier this week and again this morning, shooting small white flowers using twin macro flash (a new flash I've just started using). The screen is indicating the highlights are clipped.
I'm using spot metering and have diffusers on the two flash heads. I'm also using TTL flash mode.
I've tried setting the flash compensation at negative to reduce the output and can't see that making much difference.
I've also tried turning the exposure compensation down three stops and that darkens the background but the white flower edges is still showing as clipped.
I'm using a D800, 105mm lens and two Nikon SB-R200 flash heads.
Has anyone any tips to share on how to shoot white flowers when using macro flash please?
Thanks
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David
I only occasionally take photos just of flowers using macroflash, normally the very small ones. However as I take lots of photos of insects in flowers with macroflash and have 10,000s of them on my harddrives I'm very familiar with the problems.
Essentially some flowers seem unusually reflective and can be even worse than shiny insects for blowing the highlights. Even when the rest is quite under-exposed, it's not unusual to find hotspots of blown highlights on some flowers. Yellow ones are as bad as white ones.
Whilst you say you were using diffusers you don't say which ones. Also how big are the flowers? My experience is that most diffusers, especially commercial ones have very little effect in reducing blown highlights from twin macro flashes. Here's a comparison I did quite a few years back to illustrate this. I'm sorry about the small size of the image but I don't have a larger size hosted. Also it is slightly confusing because what I call a cup diffuser isn't one of my later designs which was used by a lot of people, but a mini beauty dish based on John Hallmen's (morfa) flash diffuser. Nevertheless it shows how little effect these diffusers really have.
However, I replaced this with a design I called a "concave diffuser" which is baiscally an inverted white or translucent inverted dome in a relfective tube, hence the name concave diffuser. The problem with normal diffusers with a convex or flat design is that they have a central hotspot i.e. the centre of the light is brighter than edges, which is what causes so many blown hightlights. With the concave diffuser the light spread is very even with no central hotspot. The placement of a blocker in a mini beauty dish design was too critical and it was too easily knoced out of place.
I have found two Gary Fong Puffers in my box of tricks from a while back, that I altered to fit over similar diffusers to these, so have white tacked them on to see how they work. I'm pretty sure it was someone else onthis forum from a couple of years ago that was using this diffuser set-up, but can't remember who (possibly the person who does the No Cropping Zone blog).
I have also been following Robert O'Toole who uses Gary Fong Cloud Universal (modified) with the Nikon macro flash. More expensive option that your improvisations though, so I'll hang fire on these at the moment.
For Daisy sized flowers the end of lens snoot type design like my cup diffuser or Kurt's foam adaption of this should work well. I'd recommend using either white packing foam like Kurt or Vellum paper. Both materials have their advantages and disadvantages. Vellum paper is probably the better diffuser and lets more light through, although to be most effective a double layer with a sligh space between gives the best diffusion. The problem being that Vellum paper isn't good if it gets damp. Also foam can be bent up at the end easily increasing the range of which it can be use. You will need a former on which to mount it. I find clear plastic containers best. I use pieces of self-adhesive Velcro (hoop and loop) pads to attach both the diffuser material, and the form to the front of the bracket. The great thing about this attachment is that it is firm enough to hold it in position, but will come away under pressure so nothing breaks. Also the adhesive residue is easily cleaned off and you equipment will still look mint after. The aluminium foil you see is just to provide a touch of fill-in from the front.
Here's what I use. Forget the board which is for fitting into a Cokin P holder and using is a a macro flash bracket for a small single cheap flash gun. It is in place of the bracket that the Nikon SB-R200 flashesh and Canon MT24EX macroflash use.
You might try to setup your equipment for manual operation. Then set the flash power output until you see a histogram reading where the white (highlights) exposures are about 241. Make sure your ISO is 100. I use an R1C1 when I need flash. I find that using a Buff Einstein on 1/256 power works great also. Plus the studio strobes have color adjustment you might take advantage of.
Yes, a number of years ago, Sears hardware went out of business so I bought a ton of CR123A batteries and put them in the refrigerator. They works great. Since you have the R1C1, the diffuser was included. I agree with you about the R1C1 and the number of components. Did you notice that you have slots available for one more SB-R200 and it's supporting parts? If you want to use the SB-R200 with a macro rail, you might try to jury rig up a clamp that will support the flash on the non-moving part of the macro rail. That way you don't get any more light than the previous shot
I am playing Warframe on the PC platform and I would like to use a rapid-fire macro to milk as much fire rate out of semi auto guns as I can while simply holding down the fire button. I have managed to make this work with the mouse left click, and can do the semi-auto rapid fire macro with mouse and keyboard.
However my issue is that although I am on PC platform, I always play Warframe with an XBOX 360 controller because I am a pleb. So my issue is that I cannot figure out a way to make a Warframe macro for Warframe that uses the XBOX 360 usb controller for PC as an input to begin the macro script of rapid fire.
If there is anyone who can help me figure out how to get a PC macro so that I can hold down right-trigger on my xbox controller and it will rapid fire my weapon it would be an enormous help. Oh, and the worst thing is I am unable to afford basically everything right now, so any software involved would have to be absolutely free to use
You didn't mention once you may have a problem with your hands or fingers that would require you needing a macro to help you play easier, to me you just want to cheat by using a macro to try and bypass the human mechanic of firing a gun that DE deemed should fire at a certain rate, I hope you're not going to try it in Conclave.
I'm old and imo macros for able body players in CO-OP games are just as bad as using cheats.
Macros aren't using cheats as signalled by DE they are totally ok with rapid fire macros, I don't want to develop a long term issue with my hands because I have to mash the fire button constantly to get the best out of my weapon. Please either answer the question or leave, your opinion belongs on a blog not in a forum for information sharing
I do remember DE saying they didn't want players using macros. Not sure if they had change their thoughts. Anyways if your looking to do macros, google and youtube are your best friends. Some players were macroing Wukong's twin to inifinity. lol They totally got busted.
fully automatic macros without player input are bad on every/any game, ones where you still have to press/hold to activate are usually perfectly fine as you are not /afk'ing the process.
Also, for joystick/joypad related stuff:
I recently switched to Affinity Photo from Photoshop, and I'm trying to recreate a macro I use when batch processing scanned photos. Part of the macro involved resizing each photo's canvas to 99% of its original size to get rid of any potential white border that appeared when scanning. I can type in a percentage in the image dimensions when resizing the canvas; however, this doesn't translate over to the macro. It instead saves the final dimensions of the image. This won't work for me since not all my images are the same size. I need it to crop by percentage relative to the dimensions of each image. This is very easy to do in Photoshop and GIMP, as they have a percentage option for canvas resizing, but I can't seem to find a way to do this in Affinity. Is there any solution to this?
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