Moody Keel Bolts

[Kathy Vreeland]

Hi all,

The keel bolts on our 1987 Moody 376 look pretty awful (rusted) and we have some questions before we go any further:

How are they put in the keel - threaded or welded?

What are they made of - stainless or regular steel?

Has anyone replaced them? How hard a job is it?

Thanks for any insight -

Jon Eld/Kathy Vreeland
Moody 376 PeKaBo

[dx51...@aol.com]

I replaced my keel bolts on my Moody 37, 1986.  They are threaded in and are steel.  They actually came out pretty easy.  Mine were rusted as well plus i had rust coming down from the iron keel.   Good luck.

Rick

[Matt Salatino]

If they're anything like my 1988 425, they are cold rolled steel.

Nothing special.

I replaced mine last April.

They were quit rusty on top, but like new below the square washer-plate.

 

They CAN come out easily, but the big issue and 'trick' is to separate the nut from the nut plate.  They are rusted together, and though the threads into the keel are clean, the square plate won't let the nut rotate.  You must break it loose.

You can try a socket and breaker bar to see if it will come loose.

If it doesn't don't try an impact wrench, as it will round the nut.  If you round the nut, you must cut it off the stud using an angle grinder with a metal cutting blade.  DON'T cut the stud, only the nut, or its in forever or you'll have to drop the keel to get it out.  Oh, by the way, I replaced them one or two at a time so the keel never came loose.

I used an angle grinder to cut around the stud, the nut that contacted the washer plate.  Then the nut will come off easily with a socket and breaker bar.

If its really rusty, the entire keel bolt/nut will come out.  this is OK. Make sure the area around is clean so crud doesn't drop in the hole when the keel bolt comes out.

The keel bolt is just a piece of metric all-thread.  I bought 1 meter rods and cut them to length, usually about 7", or a bit less.  Don't cut them too long or the socket won't fit over the nut when you tighten it down.

 

Its a messy, dusty job, I didn't like it one bit, and all of the above was learned from doing it.  Wish I read this before I started...woulda been much easier....

Good luck.

Matt

From: Kathy Vreeland <kv...@cornell.edu>
To: moody-owners-associat...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 3, 2012 10:03 AM
Subject: {MOA-Americas} Moody Keel Bolts

[Matt Salatino]

The bolt on the left had the nut cut off it, then it came out easily with a vice grip.

Some of the others came out  like bolts with the nut rusted to it.

One shows the square nut plate.

Hope this helps.

Matt

From: Kathy Vreeland <kv...@cornell.edu>
To: moody-owners-associat...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 3, 2012 10:03 AM
Subject: {MOA-Americas} Moody Keel Bolts

[Peter A Robinson]

Hi gang,

 

I forwarded Kathy's email to David Moody and asked him to respond.  I should mention that during our get-together last year David told me that if the group any questions that he could assist with, he would be happy to help.  If anyone has any technical questions that you think David might have the answer to, just let me know and I will forward the questions onto him.  I have already asked him a few questions about my Moody 33 that only a Managing Partner at A.H. Moody & Sons would be able to answer.  Below is David Moody's response:

 

I read with interest the last America's Chapter thread regarding rusty keel bolts and something I learnt whilst at college  studying for my apprenticeship came to mind.

 

We would all like to see polished nuts and bolts in our bilges, but, more often than not, it is  what you can't see that is more important, ie below the surface and out of sight.  I learnt that stainless steel could deteriorate when it is not open to the air and that, if a stainless steel nut is overtightened on a stainless steel bolt, the threads can welding themselves together, therefore making it more difficult to release at a later date. I believe that a  further characteristic is that stainless steel  does not contain the same elasticity as steel.

 

I did not decide that steel keel bolts were to be used on the Moody range but  am sure  that proper consideration was given to the correct material to be used at the time. It is possible that the pressure on manufacturers to fit stainless steel keel bolts was due to market forces and it is also possible that the qualities of stainless steel have improved since my college days.

 

The owner enquiring about rusty keel bolts should be aware that their inspection and withdrawal is well overdue as they appear to be 25 years old. I repeat, it is what you can't see that is more important and the withdrawal of a keel bolts for inspection should be carried out at regular intervals.  I for one, would obtain a metal expert's opinion on the pros and cons of stainless steel over ordinary steel before deciding how to proceed.

 

It is, of course, necessary to look after and regularly maintain the rusting of the keel bolt nuts in the bilges. These should be wire-brushed and painted regularly as part of routine general maintenance. The material used for this is probably best obtained from a specialist paint manufacturer.

 

 

I hope that the above is of help to you.

 

Kindest

 

David

 

 

I should also mention that any MOA member can go to the MOA website and access the InfoExchange page from which you can post a question to Moody owners all over the world.  There is also an archive of all past questions and all the responses.  It is a treasure trove of information and also a treasure trove of knowledge that you can tap into.  Here is the website http://www.moa.myzen.co.uk/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi  There is also a Technical Library that has a vast amount of information available http://www.moodyowners.net/Technical_Library/library.shtml

 

In addition to the message from David, I just received a message from the editor of the Compass magazine and she needs a report from all the Branch Chapter Captains much earlier than normal due to some postage issues.  I need to make a request of the group; if you have any pictures or have conducted any major maintenance on your Moody or have gone on a cruise please drop me a note so I can included it in my America's Chapter Report.  Unfortunately, I need it by Thursday.  I realise that is very late notice for which I apologize. 

Have a great week,

 

Peter

[Matt Salatino]

Dave,

No pics, but I've started refinishing my interior bulkheads and Trim.

I must give Kudos to a relatively new product:

 

Minwax

Wipe-On

Poly

 

This is exactly what it sounds like. A fast-drying, rub-on product.

Advantages:

- VERY forgiving application, Requires little knack.  Although DON'T brush it on.  The staining applicators you can buy at Lowe's, terry-covered sponge, work very well.

- Easy to manage wet line, but dries quickly.  I've applied, 3 coats in a day, using Scotch-Brite between coats pad between each coat.

- Comes in Clear Satin and Clear Gloss.  Have used the Satin on the bulkheads and the gloss on the trim.

- Results are as good, or better than factory.  Grain shows through, but is well protected.

- Very hard finish.  Scuff resistant.

 

Disadvantages:

- Coats go on thin. Takes 5 coats to look good.  I applied an additional coat after that (6 coats total)

- Interior use only.  No UV protection.

 

I highly recommend this finish.  Its the best wood finish product for below decks that I've found. On-line reviews for furniture applications are also very good.

 

Also recieved materials for my next big project, Replacing the cabin sole.

I've used a CAD system to relayout the configuration of the plywood sole so I can get access to the bilge without having to remove the salon table or have a press fit right up the vertical surfaces.

Using a commercial vinyl flooring product sold by Defender, by Lonseal.

I'll take pics along the way and document for the next issue of Compass.

 

Matt