Hammered Dulcimer Plans Free Download Pdf
Sumiko Fagnoni
Old dulcimers are now scarce in most areas, and few craftsmen are making them for sale on a regular basis. At first look, the construction of a hammer dulcimer may appear to be a formidable undertaking to anyone but a master craftsman. This need not be the case. The purpose of this leaflet is to set out in concise fashion guidelines for easily building a durable instrument which will be acoustically and visually satisfying enabling potential players who cannot find or afford a dulcimer to quickly build a successful instrument and get on with music making. Possibilities may suggest themselves so that those who are adventurous and sufficiently skillful will evolve and invent their own designs.
A great deal of variation can be found in dulcimer design; some are simple and some more elaborate. However, by proceeding deliberately and with common sense one can complete a very satisfying instrument from the most unsophisticated of designs. There are simple ones made of pine that are every bit as desirable in terms of tone and playability as fancier and more complex dulcimers.
A dulcimer must be constructed with two primary goals in mind. One is to provide a very rigid platform for many strings at high tensions. The other is to provide an adequate vibrating surface and sound chamber for tone production. Most stringed instruments, guitars for instance, suffer in volume and responsiveness if built too heavily and sturdily. This is not much of a problem with the dulcimer, however, since a player can get greater volume by striking with more force and using harder material for the hammer heads. In fact, a too-brilliant dulcimer will sound harsh due to overemphasis of the percussive sound of the hammering.
The gauge of wire, the number of strings to be used, and the pitches they will be tuned to are all factors which determine the amount of stress on a dulcimer frame. If the frame warps or the joints do not hold solidly, then the instrument may not stay in tune.
The string lengths given are good ones for a dulcimer using steel music-wire strings and tuned as indicated in the information leaflet on dulcimer history and playing which is a companion to this one. You can extrapolate the lengths necessary if you desire a different tuning range. Remember that a string must be rather tight in order to sound out clearly, but if it is too tight it may break, bend the hitch pins and ruin the pin blocks, or warp the instrument.
A dulcimer with 12 treble courses and 4 strings per course makes a good, all-round instrument. The hammer dulcimer diagram and dimensions are for such an instrument. If you want a simpler project, make the frame smaller to accommodate just 9 treble courses. There has been some fine playing on 9-course dulcimers.
After reading the leaflet on tuning and playing you may decide to include some bass courses on your dulcimer. They are handy but not necessary. Some very fine players do without them. Bass strings will add to the complexity of your project. We suggest providing at least 7 bass courses if you go to the effort of incorporating any.
If you intend your instrument to be portable, add a carrying handle. It is handy to have some sort of rests, such as furniture glides, on the side opposite the handle. You can put feet on the back of your dulcimer so that it will stand steadily on a table or playing stand. It works well for the feet to tilt the dulcimer toward you a bit for ease of playing.
For the tunings and dimensions indicated, use steel music wire of relatively light gauge. We find that #8 wire (0.020-inch diameter) usually works out well for all strings. Use #6 or #7 wire if you are unsure of the rigidity of your dulcimer frame or if you prefer a soft, delicate tone. Heavier wire gives more volume but also results in harsher tones and more stress on the instrument. If your dulcimer has a very thick soundboard and sturdy frame, you may prefer a heavier gauge. Experiment with different wire and hammers until you discover combinations you like.
When stringing, make sure that the wire takes several turns around the tuning pin before pulling tight. This ought to keep the wire from pulling loose and going out of tune. It will take several days and retunings before a newly strung dulcimer will stay in tune long without going flat. This is to be expected, as the steel wire will stretch. If tuning problems persist, check for signs of warping, cracking, bending of hitch pins, and other signs of structural failure. Make sturdy repairs before retightening strings.
A dulcimer can be made with only 12 to 15 hours of labor. However, you should expect to spend at least 30 to 40 hours on your first one if you include bass strings and intend to do a good job. Select wood that is free of cracks and warps and is worthy of your efforts. Perhaps, if you work carefully, your instrument will live to give pleasure to many people.
Thanks for your comments. The base of the dulcimer is 1/4 Baltic Birch plywood, the sides are built-up layers of 3/4 Baltic Birch, the inner supports and bridges are solid maple and the sound board is 3/8 edge glued quarter-sawn red cedar. The stand is made of solid maple and the box is 1/2 Baltic Birch for the sides and 1/4 for the top and bottom. I lined the box with blue felt and built partitions to hold the stand, the dulcimer and spare hardware. I probably put 50 hours into it over the course of a summer.
Nice plan.other plans by Scott offer 2 heal options.spanish and dove tail this plan only offers the dovetail. I think I'm going to change it to the Spanish. I like that connection better. Also you called lt concert parlor and the plan says this is to be used with steel strings as it was drawn after the Lion and healy model Columbus. I think I want nylon strings. I have not started the project yet. I'm collecting up some parts and I guess it's my option to change it the way I want. I do like the size of it. I will know more later after I've built it. I do plan on using this plan but I may alter it.
A CALL TO IMPROVE THESE PLANS: These original plans from 1973 give us a rough outline for making a simple hammered dulcimer. However, they contain some vagueness when it comes to design and parts. For example, the author suggests using "sturdy nails" as hitch pins. What exact nails would you use? Also, he recommends a 2x4 as the frame, but wouldn't the softness of the pine wood eventually release the zither pins and cause tuning problems?
About these plans: In researching various obscure musical instruments, I have discovered the treasure trove of information from Mugwumps, a now defunct magazine originally published by Michael Holmes of Silver Spring, MD. The bi-monthly journal celebrated old time music, unusual folk instruments and served as a classifieds for the emerging bluegrass community of the 1970's.
I use a jig to drill the pin holes. Lay out the pin pattern on a 1-1/2 or 2 inch thick piece of hardwood and use a drill press to drill the jig. It can then be clamped to the dulcimer body and used as a guide for a handheld drill. If desired, bevel the bottom of the jig to create angled pin holes, a better design.
I prefer to use desk pins as hitch pins, but nails will work. Be sure to drill pilot holes for the nails. Don't just pound them in with a hammer, that will encourage splitting. The string tension on a hammered dulcimer is formidable. Hitch pins should definitely be set at an angle. Use the test jig to determine the best size of nail to use. A six or eight penny finish nail might be a good place to start. Nails are soft, don't let them stick up too far or they will bend. Keep the string wrap close to the block.
I home made flat ended zither pins from nails using a highly technical cold forging process dating back to the earliest recording of blokes in sheds. I hit it with a hammer to flatten the end. Then I used the smallest drill bit in my set (1.6 mm) to make holes I could feed the string through. Pre drill the mounting hole just a tad smaller like you do with regular zither pins and hammer it home. More details in the instructable and also plans for a tuning tool. Steps 7 and 8 respectively.
Drawn by John Roeder and Guild staff. Text, photos, exploded diagram, and reduced plans of 5 zither styles included on plan. Two sheets, each 24" 42". Reduced plan image and accompanying article appear in Big Red Book of American Lutherie Vol. Five. (Originally published in American Lutherie #50)
Dulcimer Kit - 15/14 Size: The pin blocks, sides and internal braces are made of hard maple. The back is 1/4" birch plywood. The top/soundboard is 1/4" African mahogany plywood. The bridges are also of hard maple. All wooden parts are carefully cut to provide a precise fit. Detailed directions provide many diagrams and step-by-step instructions. All hardware, including music wire and pins, is included. The only supplies needed are glue and finishing materials. Minimally, an electric drill, clamps, and basic woodworking skills are needed to successfully complete your hammer dulcimer.
The hammered dulcimer is a stringed musical instrument with the strings stretched over a trapezoidal sounding board. Typically, the hammered dulcimer is set on a stand, at an angle, before the musician, who holds small mallet hammers in each hand to strike the strings (cf. Appalachian dulcimer).
Various types of hammered dulcimers are traditionally played in Southwest Asia, China and parts of Southeast Asia, Central Europe (Hungary, Romania, Slovakia, Poland, Czech Republic, Austria and Bavaria) and Eastern Europe (Ukraine and Belarus). The instrument is also played in Great Britain (Wales, East Anglia, Northumbria) and has been revived in the folk music traditions of the U.S.
I built this hammered dulcimer a few years ago from plans I got from harpkit.com. I never got good at playing it. When I learned about Decent Sampler, I decided I needed to sample it, then I could finally make music from my H.D.
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