Gta 6 Leak Forum

[Faith Lienhard]

Usedsome AC dye and found the worst case, an evap core leak in a 1999 Chevy truck. Not a good value prop to change it out. I figure I'll take one shot with the "R134a with sealant" to see if I get lucky. Are there any brands that are better than others or just pick whatever is in stock at AdvanceZone?

I am guessing you cant get to the core, right? If so, I have had success with the aluminum brazing rod (as found at HF). Otherwise I suspect there is not much difference in sealant although if it is a core leak (depending on the size), it might not seal. I think sealant is really only good for very small leaks.

There's 2 kinds of sealants, one for soft (O rings) and one for hard (evaporator core, etc.). The soft sealant you usually run across will do nothing for your core. The hard one has been rumored to work, although I've never had the guts to actually try it.

I am an absolute novice to 3d printing and desperate for help. I have prusa mk3s and was using it just fine untill 3 days ago when I made a mistake of cleaning the nozzle improperly after some suboptimal PET-G to PLA filament change where I didnt run PLA on higher temp to clear it out. I think I must have touched the nozzle when hot and maybe screw it up cause printing went bad and there was a lot of stringing despite doing cold pull where there was litreally zero residue.

I decided to order and replace the nozzle. Followed the prusa video/instruction on how to change it to the best of my ability make sure I was doing it set by step even watched like 5 different youtbers doing it. Thats now done. I recalibrated xyz and 1 layer.

So the problem now is that i get a leak (I think) of filament from the top of the hotend which goes down by one or two sides of it and ends up on the nozzle, gathers there and finally ends up on the print as a blob lets say. Now as for the print itself it is damn perfect quality but I have to stand there and clean off the spillage every 25 minutes or it messes up the print. So obviously I stopped printing.

I just dont know what to do. My knowledge is very limited. This is my first printer and I have been printing the facemasks for hospitals non stop for 2 weeks and now I cant. Half of my family are doctors so it really is unfortunate.

From what I am reading i fully suspect I did something wrong when chaning the nozzle and comments everywhere are all talking about heatbreak bend possibility which would maybe be consise? How do I check if thats the case.

Thats an outline of how the extruder assembly is internally. The heater block as well as holding the heater and the thermistor to measure the temperature acts as a big nut holding the heatbreak and nozzle together.

The most common mistake when people change their nozzles is to have a slight gap between the nozzle and heatbreak as you cant see it as its inside. That's one of the main reasons people advise having a gap between the nozzle and heatblock, as if its tight against that how can you tell if its touching and tight against the heatbreak ? and you cant screw it in further to meet the heat break.

When theres a slight gap between nozzle and heat break you get uneven pressure which results in uneven printing. You also get plastic working its way up the threads and down. So eventually you see plastic appear at the top of the heat block. Of course on a Mk3 its difficult to see that so the first sign is usually when bits of blackened plastic fall onto your prints from the stuff thats been cooking up there.

The problem is everyone here have tools and know how and I just lack it and I am really afraid to take apart the hotend to be honest. Also dont know how much that would do since I dont know how will i clean it even if I manage to do that.

mastersrybnik, I should have said upfront: well done for your work printing PPE - many of us are doing that and I'm starting to get feedback from those I know that health professionals appreciate all our efforts and are using 3d printed PPE.

There are a few other youtube videos about assembling the E3dV6 so you could find one that works for you. I agree that the thought of taking the hot end apart and putting back together could be a little scary but after doing it I expect that you will gain confidence and gain new skills. I suggest that before working on a hotend you buy in spares - I always have a spare heater and spare thermistor because these are quite fragile and we (I have) may break them (in fact I keep an entire hotend spare). Amazon in UK stock genuine E3d bits so I guess that is the same in most countries, E3d are usually quite quick shipping, and of course Prusa stock hotends and parts. When I was in your situation I: bought in spares, disassembled the hotend, reassembled, gained experience by doing it and got printing again. In my case I broke the heater wires doing all that but - no problem, I had a spare. I learned a lot from the experience. I do at times change nozzles more than once daily but I generally don't have to deal with leaks anymore because I learned from doing. I that hope it goes well for you.

I was not able to do the complete cleanup of the hotend as I do not have tools or spares in case i do break somthing so I am not willing to risk it. However since you took time to teach me basics I never knew I was able to understand my mistake and fix it. After 2 days of struggle to find any help on Polish forums where ppl mainly just throw oneliners and never care to explain this was something I was not really expecting. As it is with politness today - it mostly comes when I dont expect it.

In the end I stole a sewing needle from my wifes kit took nozzle/hotend to 230c and started cleaning it. I was long and painfull and its still not perfect but it is working just fine. Then I set nozzle to 285 and tightend it up just as far as I could see it makeing a difference. Z calibration and first layer calibration went smooth. I monitored first print non stop and it was just a normal print with me being paranoid. A second PPE is already printing and there is no leakage for now. Nozzle looks clean. There is some extremely minor strings on the print but that is nothing, tiny inaccuracies.

Just want to say this was so important to me since I have 3 doctors in my family and none of them are provided with PPEs in the hospital they work at. I've been printing non stop for two weeks and everything I print is gone the same day after I assemble it with screens and rubber bands. Now my sisters friends are also contacting me asking if they can get one and it was tought to say I cant print. Appologies for the longish post but I just wanted you to understand this is not a small thing for me and I will remember this kindness always.

[...] Just want to say this was so important to me since I have 3 doctors in my family and none of them are provided with PPEs in the hospital they work at. I've been printing non stop for two weeks and everything I print is gone the same day after I assemble it with screens and rubber bands. Now my sisters friends are also contacting me asking if they can get one and it was tought to say I cant print. Appologies for the longish post but I just wanted you to understand this is not a small thing for me and I will remember this kindness always.

My son is a doc, and this is personal for me as well. I've prepared a page with my notes on printing PPE on the Mk3 that you may find interesting. I've focused on using a 0.6mm nozzle, but many of the settings apply to the 0.4mm nozzle as well. If you are having a challenge finding suitable rubber bands or elastic locally, I've posted a material saver print that works with the Prusa-style shield frames. I've printed it in PETG and it works well, allowing me to print everything but the clear face shield material. We had an elastic shortage here briefly, and I wanted a work-around. I think the plastic parts are easier to sanitize as well.

Weirdly enough I've been printing buttons recently. My mother and her sewing group friends have been making cloth face masks with elastic for friends at nursing homes and other secondary care facilities. Well extended use rubs the skin behind the ears raw so they started making headbands with buttons on that the elastic could fit around instead of the ears. But then they ran out of buttons, so I designed a military style one with a central bar that prints quicker than the usual style with holes and have printed out a few hundred for them to use. Every little helps right ?

Thanks man but money is not an issue in my case I am good. I will order parts in time and take time to learn and get actually good at this. Time is what is hard to come by even thou I spend 99% of time in home as we all do.

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