Cinco De Mayo - Sous Vide Dulce De Leche

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Ross Goldenberg

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May 5, 2011, 12:42:57 AM5/5/11
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Hi Guys,

I've been a part of this Google Group for a while now and am an avid (yet amateur) chef.

After many many years of wanting to do it, I finally started a blog that mixes molecular gastronomy and new techniques that are within reach for the amateur and home chef.

My first post is about my sous vide quest for the perfect dulce de leche, which I thought would be appropriate in celebration of Cinco de Mayo today.

You can read all about it here: http://gastronomer.org/

I hope you like it.

--Ross

PS: Marcel - Amazing performance on your new show. I know how producers can stir up drama, but was pleased to see that so much focus and emphasis was put on your creative use of cutting edge techniques. Way to go!

--
Ross Goldenberg
ross.go...@sitecompli.com
Tel: (914) 202-2104
Mobile: (917) 224-2219
Fax: (212) 412-9073

dablind frog

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May 5, 2011, 9:19:32 AM5/5/11
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I hope your blog will have extended longevity unlike many who seem not to be able to keep up the enthusiasm (it's hard to update a blog regularly i know)

and i'll look forward to your final feedback on dulce de leche!

--
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Grif

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May 5, 2011, 12:42:01 PM5/5/11
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Great blog.

Having been raised in an agricultural area with a hi Hispanic
population, I grew up on Mexican food. We're at around 60% Hispanic
now, I'm as white as a Welshman from Tennessee stock can be, about
1/2 the relatives are Hispanic, or related to Hispanics.

Having said all that. and not trying to be snippy,,, isn't an
immersion circulator a bit of over kill for a sealed can in a pot of
water? I've never known anyone that poked holes in the can. And how
much evaporation does it take to raise the boiling point of water
enough to impact the cooking time? I guess I should stick a probe in
the tea pot next time we boil it 1/2 empty. We've got hard well
water, should be a worst case using that water.

And a story. Back east, (Putnam, Connecticut) well trained chef,
seriously New York Italian guy, english second language. Great guy
and a lot of fun. Really proud of his enchiladas that he did up for
us (a bunch of us from the southwest/west coast.

Never had enchiladas with curry powder before ;-) That was the first
time I actually remember the concept of mouth/brain confusion. Not
bad, just weird/fun. Sorta like mg.

Anyway, keep up the good work, and hope your Blog sticks around.


At 09:42 PM 5/4/2011, you wrote:
>Hi Guys,
>
>I've been a part of this Google Group for a while now and am an avid
>(yet amateur) chef.
>
>After many many years of wanting to do it, I finally started a blog
>that mixes molecular gastronomy and new techniques that are within
>reach for the amateur and home chef.
>
>My first post is about my sous vide quest for the perfect dulce de
>leche, which I thought would be appropriate in celebration of Cinco
>de Mayo today.
>
>You can read all about it here:

><http://gastronomer.org/>http://gastronomer.org/


>
>I hope you like it.
>
>--Ross
>
>PS: Marcel - Amazing performance on your new show. I know how
>producers can stir up drama, but was pleased to see that so much
>focus and emphasis was put on your creative use of cutting edge
>techniques. Way to go!
>
>--
>Ross Goldenberg

><mailto:ross.go...@sitecompli.com>ross.go...@sitecompli.com

rha...@hartford.edu

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May 5, 2011, 2:14:19 PM5/5/11
to molecular-...@googlegroups.com
An immersion circulator may be a bit overkill for making
dulce de leche, but if you have it why not use it? I can't
imagine immersion circulator sales skyrocketing due to
people making dulce de leche, but if you already have an
immersion circulator it's certainly a good use for it. In
the same vein, I was at a demo a few moths ago where April
Bloomfield from the Spotted Pig in NYC was making blood
sausage. She cooked the sausage in an immersion circulator
instead of in a pot of water over a burner. Can you cook it
in the pot? Yes, but why not eliminate any chance of
burning/overcooking?

As far as the blog post goes, I enjoyed it quite a bit. I'll
be looking forward to the followup! I'm not sure that 180 is
enough heat to sterilize the milk enough for long storage
periods though. Even though regular milk is pasteurized at
145, there are still bacteria present in the bag when you
add the milk, and the lack of oxygen is inviting to
botulism. For safety's sake you should probably freeze
extras if you plan on eating it after longer than a week or
so. Just my $0.02


----- Original Message Follows -----
From: Grif <kgri...@wolfenet.com>
To: molecular-...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [MG] Cinco De Mayo - Sous Vide Dulce De Leche
Date: Thu, 05 May 2011 09:42:01 -0700

> ><mailto:ross.go...@sitecompli.com>ross.goldenberg@si
> tecompli.com >Tel: (914) 202-2104

Grif

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May 5, 2011, 5:19:00 PM5/5/11
to molecular-...@googlegroups.com
At 11:14 AM 5/5/2011, you wrote:
>An immersion circulator may be a bit overkill for making
>dulce de leche, but if you have it why not use it?


Well said. And thinking about it,,, How low will they control
temperature? 20C? For cooking I'm not likely to grab one, but if it
did duty in my darkroom holding a water bath at 68F/20C as well as
food temps or so it might be a nice addition to the tool supply. And
actually,,, all my hobbies, food included are just an excuse to enjoy
my tool fetish.

rha...@hartford.edu

unread,
May 5, 2011, 11:19:20 PM5/5/11
to molecular-...@googlegroups.com
I don't have one, so I'm not sure how low they heat to.
Maybe someone else here knows? At any rate, I'm pretty sure
that the only way that they would heat that low would be if
the room you were using it in was 68 or cooler. I could be
wrong, but I'm assuming that the immersion circulators only
heat and that they don't cool? If that's the case they
wouldn't be able to make water that's being held in a 70
degree room cool down to 68.

What are you shooting with that requires 68F water baths? I
don't know much about color dark rooms, but I was under the
impression that the temperature requirements were much
higher than 68F for color. I know that B&W will be fine with
room temp water, which is just about 70F anyway.

As far as the tool fetish goes, I can empathize. The problem
is that while tool are unlimited, space, unfortunately, is
not.

----- Original Message Follows -----
From: Grif <kgri...@wolfenet.com>
To: molecular-...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [MG] Cinco De Mayo - Sous Vide Dulce De Leche

Date: Thu, 05 May 2011 14:19:00 -0700

Ross Goldenberg

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May 5, 2011, 11:31:55 PM5/5/11
to molecular-...@googlegroups.com
You can absolutely set the circulator for temperatures below 70.

But rhandel is absolutely right - you'd need to be in a room that's cooler than the temp. at which you want the water bath.

--Ross

Linh Dang Vu Phan

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May 6, 2011, 3:29:02 PM5/6/11
to Molecular Gastronomy
One thing that helped us a lot is to maintain a running list of blog
post topics. Whenever one pops into our head, we write it down, as
well as any notes for that topic. That way, whenever our enthusiasm
flagged, and keeping up a steady stream seemed so daunting, we'd look
at the list. There, we would see things that once excited us, and how
long we have to go yet before running out of ideas. Best yet,
sometimes we see an idea that's perfect for a quick short post to keep
the momentum going.

My SO and I write a Vietnamese food blog, not one dedicated to
molecular gastronomy per se, but since our latest post used vacuum
marinating and enzymatic peeling of citrus, it's an appropriate one to
introduce to the group: http://www.rauom.com/blog/2011/05/04/goi-buoi-pomelo-salad/

Best,
Dang

On May 5, 6:19 am, dablind frog <dablindf...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I hope your blog will have extended longevity unlike many who seem not to be
> able to keep up the enthusiasm (it's hard to update a blog regularly i know)
>
> and i'll look forward to your final feedback on dulce de leche!
>
> On 5 May 2011 08:42, Ross Goldenberg <ross.goldenb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Guys,
>
> > I've been a part of this Google Group for a while now and am an avid (yet
> > amateur) chef.
>
> > After many many years of wanting to do it, I finally started a blog that
> > mixes molecular gastronomy and new techniques that are within reach for the
> > amateur and home chef.
>
> > My first post is about my sous vide quest for the perfect dulce de leche,
> > which I thought would be appropriate in celebration of Cinco de Mayo today.
>
> > You can read all about it here:http://gastronomer.org/
>
> > I hope you like it.
>
> > --Ross
>
> > PS: Marcel - Amazing performance on your new show. I know how producers can
> > stir up drama, but was pleased to see that so much focus and emphasis was
> > put on your creative use of cutting edge techniques. Way to go!
>
> > --
> > Ross Goldenberg
> > ross.goldenb...@sitecompli.com

David Barzelay

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May 6, 2011, 5:22:56 PM5/6/11
to molecular-...@googlegroups.com
Some circulators have optional cooling attachments that can go quite low, well below 0 Celsius if you use the right medium.  However, these attachments are usually fairly expensive and power-hungry.  See here for a $4000 example: http://www.omega.com/pptst/hctb-3000_rctb-3000.html.

David Barzelay
Chef, Lazy Bear underground restaurant
www.lazybearsf.com
www.eatfoo.com

Grif

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May 9, 2011, 12:54:42 PM5/9/11
to molecular-...@googlegroups.com

Just going to have to grab one.

The 68 degree temp is usually handled by the cold/hot water mixing
valve, with higher temp done with a dedicated water bath device,
usually doing circulation duty at the same time. I don't really
"NEED" one for the kitchen or darkroom,,, but what the heck, dual
duty? How can I say no?

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