Bolt Move
Ceola Roefaro
The Bolt Series (no welding required) is a fully fabricated front or rear bumper. The front bumper comes in three main modular sections (2 wings and a center section) along with the frame mounts and bolt hardware needed to quickly attach this bumper to your truck.
Mittens: [about people] They pretend they're going to always be there for you, and then one day they pack up and move away and take their love with them, and leave their declawed cat to fend for herself! They leave her, wondering what she did wrong.
The Bolt Series (no welding required) front bumper kit comes in three main modular sections (2 wings and a center section) along with the frame mounts and bolt hardware needed to quickly attach this bumper to your truck. This aftermarket truck bumper will bolt to the frame horns of your truck and comes unfinished allowing you to paint, powder-coat or finish your modular aftermarket truck/SUV bumper as you want.
The BOLT front bumper kit includes all the pieces cut to your specific vehicle and instructions for installing and bolting this bumper kit together. The bumper kit comes unfinished so you can paint or finish as you would like. No welding is required to put this bumper kit on your truck or SUV.
update: I can create a joint (rigid or revolute) but not move or align the nut to the bolt. It seems like I should be able to move or align. I moved a set of washers into position after import. Why not the nuts?
This is a very interesting problem, to be sure. What I observed is that if I delete all the joints, I can move things, but it is VERY slow to move the bolts. It is not clear why this is the case. I suspect that this is the root cause of the whole problem. With the joints in place, moving one bolt will try to move several bolts together. The rate that I see a single, unjointed bolt moving makes me think that if you waited long enough, everything would eventually move. I'm not saying you should do that, of course. This is a very simple model, and should be able to move just fine. We will get to the bottom of it...
More generally, I was trying to check the bolt positions in the slots. The movement is a titch over 2 in center-center due to tolerances (2.121" or something). What is the best way to keep the bolts in the slots to see how the bolts move? I could not figure out how to do it with joints.
The best way to do this is with Joint Limits. You need to set the limits so that it keeps the bolts in the slots. The workflow is not as wonderful as it could be, but you can get there. The Align command can help. The basic idea is to use Align to put the joint in each of its extreme orientations, then take note of the joint value in each orientation, then set the min and max to those values in the Edit Limits command for that joint.
Fusion Bolt inflicts damage. The base power of Fusion Bolt will double if any Pokmon has successfully used Fusion Flare previously in the same turn, with no intervening moves in between, except perhaps for failed moves. If this power increase applies, it also causes Fusion Bolt to have a different animation than normal. Likewise, Fusion Bolt will cause a later Fusion Flare to have doubled power if it's the next successful move used in the same turn.
It's really stuck. Now I can get it to turn in the shock bushing, but it still won't come out. The Bilsteins have a rubber bushing in the lower end of the shock, which the bolt goes through. The whole shock moves when I try to punch it out.
What is happening is that the shock is actually applying downward pressure to the bolt. This is making it almost impossible just to slide the bolt out or to even just punch it out from the other side. The suspension is still under load even though the rear end is lifted off the ground and the wheel is off. You need to compress the shock to relieve the load.
What you need to do is jack of up the lower part of the shock so that the opening in the lower shock and opening in the knuckle line up. The lowest part of the shock actually slightly extends past the lowest part knuckle (the two bottoms dont line up with each other) will so you will need to jack it up just before the knuckle starts to lift up. This will relieve some pressure from the bolt and make it easier to take out.
Then you need to take your 19mm socket and just turn the bolt out. It will eventually come out, it just needs to be turned out sometimes. The clearance is very tight so the bolt doesn't always just slide out.
3) then I used some 15mm wrenches in place of the lug nut wrench to wedge the bolt out further, sticking the wrenches in between the bolt head and the strut. Repeat until you can't get leverage with just the lug nut wrench.
4) Then I used a wrench to pry out some more of the bolt, and when I didn't get enough leverage with 1 wrench, I stacked 2 of them together and stuck it in between the bolt and the strut for more leverage to pry it out.
My best idea yet: I used a length of 2x4 between the shock body and part of the frame/subframe (above a flat flap of plastic) so the shock can not move when I hammer and punch the bolt. No luck. Nothings moves.
For me, like I mentioned about, sometimes it would come out when I ratchet it, sometimes I had to pry it out, and then at the end had to ratchet the rest. It all depended on where the screw ended up digging into the bushings I think.
Hey guys I have a problem. I just bought a 04 ktm 125 and my chain is extremely loose. So I went to adjust those bolts to move the tire back. One side easily adjusts but the other bolt won't budge. I sprayed wd40 on it and really tugged on it. The threads have to be stripped or the bolt or swing arm might be bent. because the other side was easy.
the threads arent stripped, atleast not yet. what happens is the bolt rusts in the aluminum then it doesnt want to move. Get some good penetrating oil like pb blaster and soak it down good a few times, then try to move the bolt either tighten it or lossen it and you shoulod be able to get it to move a little. If you can you will just have to work it back and forth and eventually it should become free. once it does put some anti seize on both of then to keep this from happening again. If you break the adjuster off there is a company that sells a oversize bolt and tap kit for this kinda thing.
I had that problem with a KX125 roach I bought last year. Spray the hell out of it with penetrating lube, then use a breaker bar on the end of your wrench. I actually used an imperial socket on the bolt. Can't remember what size but it was a better fit than the metric version, so there was no way it was going to strip the head.
Thanks guys. So its not stripped that's good news. I can barely move it maybe 1/8 of a turn each way but its very hard, so I figured it was stripped. I'l try the wd40 a couple more times and if that doesn't get it then I"ll use better stuff.
So many different opinions on the care of an O ring chain..almost as controversial as the dreaded which oil threads ? In my opinion if your riding Moto x wd-40 may last long enough, if re-applied between moto's..for trail riding I cant see how it would protect your chain for a 40-100 mile ride.
2) It moves a bit. That is a good thing. Heat always helps when removing stubborn fasteners - use a heatgun (or if you're careful, a blowtorch) to heat the swingarm where the bolt enters. This will expand the swingarm threads a little and help chase the penetrating oil in.
4) If the visible portion of the bolt thread looks good then it may be worth screwing the bolt in before trying to get it out. Back and forth, a little at a time. It's possible that the exposed bolt threads inside the swinger are corroded. You may need to take the swinger off so that you can clamp it vertically in a vice. Then gravity will help the penetrating oil to get down there. It may sound like a lot of work, but you really don't want to snap that sucker off. Ok, so you could then get the bolt drilled out and the thread repaired, but for ever there'll be that piece of bolt rattling around in the swinger...
5) If you get the bolt out but toast the threads in the swingarm you'll probably need to get the thread repaired with an insert (helicoil or preferably Timesert) as there may not be room to fit a bigger diameter bolt and locknut. Even if you can put a bigger bolt in then avoid it because it's a pretty ghetto thing to do and may make prospective buyers walk away or haggle harder. If the rest of the bike is in good nick then it's probably worth sinking a few $$$ into getting it fixed right.
All good advice, something that has worked for me on many automotive engine blocks and heads, ect. Lightly heat the bolt and then apply regular paraffin wax, the heat will melt and draw the wax in lubing the threads. This has worked for me many times on exhaust manifold bolts which can be very difficult to remove.
BUY equipment to tap it out before you adjust it! I had this same problem and have kano and about every solvent known to man and the thing wouldn't budge past the 1/2 turn either way and then it just broke off when I tried to make it. I knew that was coming and already had the tap ready to go.............
A motorbike unit can dismount as part of any Advance move. Once dismounted riders move and fight as infantry. Troops cannot remount once dismounted. Bike riders can carry infantry small-arms but cannot shoot whilst moving. All weaponry can only be fired when stationary, i.e. with a Fire action, in which case we assume riders momentarily halt or get off their machines to shoot.
To the Warlord Staff who research and develop the rule/unit make-up (what weapons did they carry, how many of certain weapons were assigned, equipment they carried etc.This Free French Engineer Section (with motorcycle option) is clearly based on World War I French squads (1 pistol, rifkes(carbines) , and a flame thrower . The Late War French Engineers had SMG, rifles/carbines, Pistols, bars and/or light machine guns. Could you please look at this and see about adding this information to the next Erratta.
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