Green Noise Download
Kirby Carpinello
But all these colors of the rainbow can have your head spinning on just what noise is best for sleep, and in particular your own sleep issues. Though research is still limited on the impact of trending green noise, sleep scientists do already know quite a bit about the power of noise for sleep, and how to determine which type is best for you.
Brown noise has a lower, deeper vibe, though it still contains every frequency like white noise. The New York Times describes it as soothing, steady, and rumbly, and notes that it made waves in online ADHD communities in 2022.
In addition to adults who have trouble falling or staying asleep, due to anxiety or other causes, some studies have shown sleep noise to be therapeutic for children with ADHD, babies who struggle to sleep, and those with health conditions.
You can also set a timer so the sound cycles off if you only have trouble falling, versus staying asleep, she adds. If you know it takes you 20 minutes to go to sleep, for example, you might set the noise to stop 45 minutes later, to be safe.
I'm using Lightroom Classic CC to edit Panasonic RW2 RAW files and always do my best to ETTR (Expose To The Right).But on a very few occasions my camera still under exposes and when I boost the shadows I'm left with very obvious green noise.I know I can (and do) remove it manually with the adjustment brush.Is there a way to do it automatically without having to use the brush for the rare times I need it now?
I'm using Lightroom Classic CC to edit Panasonic RW2 RAW files and always do my best to ETTR (Expose To The Right). But on a very few occasions my camera still under exposes and when I boost the shadows I'm left with very obvious green noise.
Looking at the P1070919.RW2 file with ExifTool you have the camera's Exposure Compensation set to -.66 EV or -2/3 Stop. This is actually just the opposite (ETTL) and will increase noise. I suggest setting it to +0.33 and leaving it there, which will get you a lot closer to ETTR.
So how bad is the exposure in this raw file? The majority of the image data is clumped at 500 out of 4096 maximum level, which is about level -3.0 EV. The shadows are obviously at even a lower level and down in the noise.
As Todd has shown, the big issue is the image is massively under exposed. The raw Histogram which we desperately need in LR/ACR show this and that's why there's noise. Nothing LR can do to overcome this, just 'mask/hide' it. So you really need a better tool to gauge actual exposure which ONLY takes place at capture, never after. I suggest:
Both Todd and I have provided a raw Histogram. Both show under exposure but my screen capture is even easier to decipher if you're not good with Histograms; look at the stat's outlined in red upper right. You have zero pixels clipping; not even the specular highlights on the car's chrome or the headlights and worse, you have channels that show under exposure. So you're raw in both cases is under exposed. That's why you've introduced noise into the capture.
Ok then,lets do this the old fashioned way.If anyone's got the time,can they process the photo of the green E Type Jag above to get something that looks right to their eyes without reducing it to a science experiment please? I'll show you mine later when I get home from work.Ultimately I will always let my eyes be the judge as a computer program doesn't know how I see the world.
Imagewerx as explained your first picture of the yellow car P1070919.RW2 was grossly underexposed causing the green shadow noise. We've provided LR adjustments to remove the green noise with suggestion in the future to monitor the exposure. thedigitaldog provided links to three articles on how to determine the best exposure setting (ETTR) to prevent underexposure.
The green jag picture P1080230.RW2 is slightly overexposed with some highlights clipped (white car in background and pebbles) and no other issues. The actual raw data is clipped causing some of the highlight areas to have no image detail, but areas with just one or two channels clipped are partially recoverable. You do this using LR's Exposure and Highlights controls.
Below are the settings I used, which produces good results despite the slight overexposure. Keep in mind some highlight clipping is unavoidable and OK such as bright sky areas and reflections off of glass and chrome. In the case of this picture the clipped white car in the background still looks OK and no one can tell that some of the pebbles are all white (but shouldn't be). It's of no consequence and helps lower shadow area noise (green noise).
You've been trying to "compensate" for that overly bright display by using in-camera Exposure Compensation (-2/3 EV), which caused the image to be under-exposed with high shadow noise. Does that make sense?
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