Bare Minimum Water Requirement
Lucy
I haven't introduced myself yet. You can call me Lucy. I live in Utah with my
NON-survivalist husband.
I have a few quick questions about water. I understand the general water
guidelines but I would like to know what the bare minimum requirement is in a
worst-case scenario situation.
What is the MINIMUM amount of water needed to survive? I believe the Coast
Guard advises that two 4-ounce portions are needed in a 24 hour period. Is
that correct?
How long can a person survive on this minimal amount of water? I assume if
you're going to get by on a such a small amount, you can't expend any extra
energy.
Does anyone have links or resources on this topic? So far I've come up dry.
Warm wishes,
Lucy
Jeff Schwartz
"Lucy" <wels...@aol.comnojunk> wrote in message
news:20020320022830...@mb-mq.aol.com...
> Does anyone have links or resources on this topic? So far I've come
up dry.
Oh, bad pun!
As I read it, water consumption would vary by place, climate, excersize,
person, physical condition, etc...
But the Coast Guard number sounds right for a guess.
I do remember something about the old British Navy (circa 1750's)
issuing each crewman 1 gallon per day in normal rations, and that some
ships came home on quarter rations.
I don't think I'd go below a quart a day if there wasn't a choice.
Suggest you google this NG for a conversation a while back on water
rationing in the desert for more info.
Perry Noid
> I live in Utah
> What is the MINIMUM amount of water needed to survive?
You should know better than us how much water =you= need. More water is
generally better. Thirst lags behind water requirements, dark urin is an
earlier, better indicator that you're not drinking enough.
Gunner
Welcome! I suggest you get to know our other ladies, including the
esteemable Xena, whom also had a non-survival husband. (whom I believe
has changed his tune a bit.)
You will be presently be given all sorts of information, if my small
expeience with this group is any indication.
Gunner
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Lucy
I found a few old messages and they were very helpful.
I forgot to clarify in my message that I was wondering about "average"
conditions, where the temperature would generally be between 32 degrees and 90
degrees.
Let's say you have great water equipment but for WHATEVER reason you can only
use the water you brought with you. What is the MINIMUM the average <if there
is such a thing> person could survive on and how long could they survive?
I know this is all hypothetical... and I know my ignorance is showing.
Thank you for your tolerance!
Lucy the Red
mosai...@yahoo.com
Skip Hammond
"Lucy" <wels...@aol.comnojunk> wrote in message
There is not really any such thing as average. The rule of thumb is to
allow a minimum of 1 gallon per day, per person. This allows for cooking
and minimal washing. There is a great deal of difference in the amount of
water needed at 85 to 90 degrees F and at 55 to 70. If it is cool, and you
are not moving or exercising, and your diet contains water (canned peaches,
for example), then you will need less water to drink. If it is 85, you are
hiking, and you are eating beef jerky, then you will need relatively more
water. There are other factors, but temperature, activity and diet all have
a big effect on water usage. How long someone can survive with little or no
water is also dependant on that person's individual physiology.
What circumstances do you envision for your hypothetical person? Sitting in
a fallout shelter? Hiking in the woods? Car broke down in the Mojave?
Ray Keefer
In article 0000...@mb-mq.aol.com, wels...@aol.comnojunk (Lucy) writes:
> Hello Boys!
>
> I haven't introduced myself yet. You can call me Lucy. I live in Utah with my
> NON-survivalist husband.
>
> I have a few quick questions about water. I understand the general water
> guidelines but I would like to know what the bare minimum requirement is in a
> worst-case scenario situation.
Don't think "bare minimum". That leaves you with NO margin for error.
Especially if you are thinking "worst-case scenario". Which is no more
municiple water coming. All you have stored is all you got until you
find a steam, dig a well, or die. Too much water is better then
not enough.
>
> What is the MINIMUM amount of water needed to survive? I believe the Coast
> Guard advises that two 4-ounce portions are needed in a 24 hour period. Is
> that correct?
8 oz a day. Maybe if you lay quietly in a cool raft, protected from the sun
and not eating.
I always figured on 2 gallons a day per person. 1 gallon for drinking and
1 gallon for washing and cooking. For 2 weeks that's 28 gallons per person.
Since you are in Utah, think desert, more water. In Desert Storm those guys
drank 3-4 gallons a day!
However water is heavy and bulky. 55 gallon drums storing serveral hundred
gallons takes up a lot of space and weigh close to 400 pounds a drum.
So there are practicle limits as to how much you can store.
Figure what your alternate source will be after your storage runs out.
Keep in mind that everyone else will know about streams, rivers and lakes.
Quantity and access may be a problem.
You will want some kind of purifier. You can last 2 weeks using iodine
water purification tablets, then your kidneys give out with iodine
poisoning. A filter or boiling are the sure ways to get clean water.
What you don't want is to get diarrea by drinking contaminated water
as that will dehydrate you even more.
>
> How long can a person survive on this minimal amount of water? I assume if
> you're going to get by on a such a small amount, you can't expend any extra
> energy.
>
I don't know how long you can last. You are right about not expending
any energy. I always figured you can last 3 days without water with normal
activity.
Regards,
Ray
Lucy
For my husband and I, I plan to have two 55 gallon drums of water in addition
to purification equipment, etc. In addition to smaller containers for BOB, car
kits, etc. Right now I have a zillion two liter water bottles but I would like
to use 55 gallon drums at home.
SIDE NOTE: Has anyone heard of using GSE <grapefruit seed extract> as a water
purifier? ONE source highly recommends it but I would like to have additional
feedback.
I understand the need to provide a more than adequate amount of water but... if
worse comes to worst, I want to know how much I would need before becoming
delirious or dying. If you can't have the recommended two quarts a day
(assuming you're in a mild climate) how much can you get by on until you obtain
more water? I know that it is advised not to ration water and to drink what
you need and hope to obtain water the next day. But is "rationing" considered
drinking less than two quarts a day or is it considered drinking less than 8
ounces a day?
What warning signs are there before delirium or worse sets in? How can you
tell if you have enough water if you can't have the ideal amount? And how long
can you survive before finding sufficient quantities of water? Other than the
previous messages on this board, are there any other links that anyone can
recommend to me?
Am I making sense? I try to be well-prepared but I just want to know what I
could survive on in the worst conditions. I want to know how long I could
survive that way, and I want to know what warning signs would present
themselves before I am beyond help.
Thanks!
Lucy
Skip Hammond
"Lucy" <wels...@aol.comnojunk> wrote in message
> Hi Again!!!
>
> For my husband and I, I plan to have two 55 gallon drums of water in
addition
> to purification equipment, etc. In addition to smaller containers for
BOB, car
> kits, etc. Right now I have a zillion two liter water bottles but I would
like
> to use 55 gallon drums at home.
>
> SIDE NOTE: Has anyone heard of using GSE <grapefruit seed extract> as a
water
> purifier? ONE source highly recommends it but I would like to have
additional
> feedback.
I doubt very much that it would kill pathogens as effectively as iodine,
chlorine or boiling. Would you rather treat anthrax with an herbal tea or
Cipro? Same difference. Herbal medicines may have some value in
maintaining good health, or some limited usefullness if pharmaceuticals are
unavailable, but don't bet your life that they will be effective.
Try this link. There are a lot of good first aid books and sites that will
provide more information. Google can help you find them.
http://www.healthcaremanual.com/first-aid-&-emergencies/dehydration/dehydrat
ion-symptoms.htm
Ray Keller
"Lucy" <wels...@aol.comnojunk> wrote in message
news:20020321002510...@mb-dh.aol.com...
>
> For my husband and I, I plan to have two 55 gallon drums of water in
addition
> to purification equipment, etc. In addition to smaller containers for
BOB, car
> kits, etc. Right now I have a zillion two liter water bottles but I would
like
> to use 55 gallon drums at home.
>
> SIDE NOTE: Has anyone heard of using GSE <grapefruit seed extract> as a
water
> purifier? ONE source highly recommends it but I would like to have
additional
> feedback.
It's bullshit from the vitamin quacks.
Strider
"Lucy" <wels...@aol.comnojunk> wrote in message
news:20020321002510...@mb-dh.aol.com...
> Hi Again!!!
***snipped***
> I understand the need to provide a more than adequate amount of water
but... if
> worse comes to worst, I want to know how much I would need before becoming
> delirious or dying. If you can't have the recommended two quarts a day
> (assuming you're in a mild climate) how much can you get by on until you
obtain
> more water? I know that it is advised not to ration water and to drink
what
> you need and hope to obtain water the next day. But is "rationing"
considered
> drinking less than two quarts a day or is it considered drinking less than
8
> ounces a day?
All the advise I've seen says DO NOT RATION WATER. Your body is the best
storage vessel for water. Lowering daily intake does not mean you will
survive longer. In fact, you will become weaker more rapidly and may fall
prey to some other danger. US Military field manual FM 21-76-1 recommends 2
quarts per day minimum.
Strider
Rex Tincher
<snip>
>What is the MINIMUM amount of water needed to survive? I believe the Coast
>Guard advises that two 4-ounce portions are needed in a 24 hour period. Is
>that correct?
<snip>
The rule of thumb is 1/2 gallon of drinking water per person per day.
That's for long-term good health at moderate temperatures, with
moderate physical activity. You can get by with less for a few days
in cool weather with little physical activity. On the flip side, you
need more than 2 gallons per day in hot humid weather (over 80 degrees
F or so) while doing heavy physical labor.
That Coast Guard standard is ridiculously low. You will regret it if
you try to get by on that little water for more than 3 days.
Add another 1/2 gallon per day for minimal personal washing. More if
you are a cleanliness fanatic. Note that by historical standards, all
modern Americans are cleanliness fanatics.
You may also be interested in the general survival info at
http://www.tincher.to/survival.htm
--
"It's incredibly positive for the Internet."
AOL president Raymond Oglethorpe, commenting
on the anthrax attacks via mail.
Newsweek magazine, 5 November 2001, page 25.
Nspn Northstarxo
As you can see here, the opinions vary but again, you have to
use your own body and the climate you're in as your guide.
Generally, 1/2-2 gallons per day per person is the norm (I
recommend 1 gallon per day per person)but also, instead of
storing so much water, make sure you have the ability to
clean/purify the water with a true water purifier. I'm a
practicing homeopath and like to use non-allopathic medicines
whenever possible but I hesitate when it comes to life-threatening
and bad water can be VERY life-threatening.
For some good lists check out:
http://www.preparednessnetwork.org/northstar/seasonal/general.html
Suzanne Settle
XO, NorthStar Preparedness Network
http://www.preparednessnetwork.org/northstar
"Fear conscripts its own armies, takes its own prisoners."
--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG
j
I also have an NON-survivalist husband. He thinks I am nuts to store food,
can food or do too much of anything. Luckily his hobbies are fishing,
hunting, making his own knifes and flashlights , so we have some important
items there.
I emptied all of our water out today and re-filled it with fresh tap water.
The link I used was from the Red Cross.
http://www.securbar.com/purewtr.htm. I always keep water on hand, 30 or so
gallons in the house, and large containers go outside. Even DH (Dear
Husband) agrees lack of water will kill you faster than lack of food.
Good Luck,
Frugal Housewife
CanopyCo
Based on storing 1 55 gallon drum per person for drinking, and 1 55 gallon drum
per person for cooking, cleaning, ect you would have between 18 (@ 3 gallon per
day) to 110 (@ 2 qt per day) days of drinking water.
For all calculations, you use the 18 days figure. (Better to have to much
instead of to little)
Distribution;
Start out with the 2 qt per day per person.
Drink if you are thirsty, but be aware of a tendency for some to drink just
because of nerves. Collect urine individually. If the urine is as clear as the
water you are drinking, then likely you are drinking more then needed. That
persons rations will not be increased just because they have drank there 2 qt
that day. If there urine is colored (darker is worse) then increase there
ration by 1 qt per day and continue monitoring there urine until it lightens up
to normal color (check your urine color now for a base to compare to). Between
urination be sure to check using the pinch test (If you can pinch the loose
skin on the back of your hand and it stays wrinkled, you need more water).
Save all collected urine in a single 55 gallon drum used just for this. If
needed, you can filter this to extend your supplies.
Be aware, this is based on a person setting around the bunker in reasonably
conformable weather. If you are sweating, then watch closer. If you are
sweating a lot, lay on plastic and collect the sweat run off and put it in the
urine drum. If you are working or traveling, watch closer to be sure your
getting all you need.
Use all water sparingly. If the situation looks long term (TEOTWAWKI) then bath
in the stream and use the drinking water and the cleaning water for just
drinking and cooking. Clean things in the river water that you are boiling. If
it looks short term (they just busted a water main supplying your town, but you
can still drive to the next town / county with a 55 gallon drum in your car and
get more water, then use it as needed.
Remember, your supply is temporary. It may become nothing with one leak. So
start looking now for possible alternative sources, and use them as soon as
safe during trouble. This will make your rations last longer if the alternative
sources become non accessible.
Store your urine barrel on its side and have a valve for it. This makes getting
it out of the drum much easier. You may wish to do this with all your drums.
If possible, store your water in the attic and plumb one drum into the regular
plumbing so you can gravity feed it into your regular system for use. Put a
valve in line so that it is separate from the line pressure and be sure to turn
off the meter if using it so you do not supply the entire town.
If possible, store your water inside. If it is just stacked out in back of the
house, the neighbors will help themselves to it. Even if you roll them inside,
they will know you have it and try to get it.
A sump pump with an automatic shut off will be a big help in retrieving hauled
water. In a bad situation, you can put a 55 gallon drum (laying on its side,
with the valve down) in the back seat of a car. You then go get your water (by
pumping it with your sump pump run from an inverter or generator ect). When you
return to camp, put a bucket in the floor of the car. Run a hose from the valve
to the bucket. Put the sump pump in the bucket and run its line up to the water
storage. Turn on the valve in the car. As the bucket fills, the pump will come
on and pump it to the storage. When the pump outruns the valve, it will shut
off. Be sure the valve is not outrunning the pump or it will flood the car.
Do not forget your hot water tank. It is a ready supply of water. Look for the
drean valve at the bottom of the tank. It is set up to hook to a garden hose.
Rinse out the tank at least once a year to prevent rust build up. Be sure to
turn off the heat to the tank so it will not burn up when empty. And remember
that the water coming out of it will be hot, even if it was turned off for
hours. Collect it using heat tolerant containers.
By hooking an air compressor to your water line you can blow out all the water
in the line and use it.
This is all based on just water use and did not cover loss of power in
connection to loss of water.
Following is my freeze power loss list.
Winter Freeze Procedure
Revision 1
The freezing water lines can be prevented by putting a T connection with a hose
valve immediately after the city shut off at the meter.
You turn off the water at the meter.
Open the hose valve that you installed. (You may want to hook a hose to this
and catch the water in a bucket for later use)
Open all the valves in the house.
Turn off and drain the hot water tank through the drain valve at the bottom of
the tank (It has a connection for a hose & you may want to catch this water
too)
Turn off the water heater when you are going to drain it. If left on and empty,
it will burn up the heating system in the tank.
This will allow most of the water to drain out of the installed valve.
You then hook a air compressor to the valve (I use a 12V car compressor hooked
to a RV screw in fitting that is made just for this purpose in a double ended
washer hose)
Close all the valves and open each one in turn to allow the air pressure to
rise and then blow out the trapped water from the lines.
Flush the toilets to drain the inner lines of the stool.
Turn off the compressor.
Pour car windshield washer, regular car radiator, or (best choice) RV anti
freeze in the sinks and stool to protect the goose neck traps and prevent odor
from entering the house.
Also don't forget the washing machine and hot tub. You need to dump about a
quart into it and set the button to pump it out for just a second. This gets it
all through the tubes and pump underneath. Be a shame to have the lights
come back on and not be able to do laundry or take a shower.
Remember, your stored water will freeze solid.
Be sure to store it in something that will allow it to expand without leaking.
If you use trash cans or buckets, you can heat a peace of iron on your heat
source, then drop it on the ice and dip off the melted ice.
This is less dangerous than trying to chip ice out of a brittle plastic bucket
that has frozen solid.
It is also less uncomfortable than putting your frozen plastic canteen in your
bed with you so that it will be thawed by morning.
You can also heat a peace of iron bar stock and insert it down the neck of any
bottles that freeze, to thaw out the contents.
You can bury your supply below the frost line.
You can keep it inside with you. You only have to keep it at 33 deg F or
higher.
You can keep it in a large capacity container.
The center of a large container of water will not freeze as fast as the out
side or small containers.
You can pour hot water into the container to melt the ice.
Anything that you add to water to keep it from freezing will make it useless
for most things until the antifreeze is removed.
If you put a valve in line after your T connection, you can turn off the water
to the house, but still get water out of a hose, if the water comes on again,
without having to re drain the entire house. Loosen the hose to drain it.
Also, I usually leave a valve on to let me know if the water comes on again and
to relieve the pressure.
Most dome tents have a net top that allows plenty of ventilation. I would put
the rain fly on for added heat retention.
Put your tent on your bead to get it up into the warmer air and give you a nice
comfortable place to sleep. Be sure not to cook inside the tent while in this
location. The tent can be picked up and set in the floor while cooking in the
tent.
Get a good sleeping bag and good work type clothing including insulated
overhauls to help you maintain your heat.
About any heat in a tent will help allot more than a person would think.
I have camped in them outside in sub freezing weather and 2 peoples body heat
was all we used. We put water on the tent to make ice to increase its heat
retention. The vent at top of the tent stayed open.
If you wish, open a window to increase ventilation.
You can also use a inverter hooked to a 12V battery to power a light bulb or
electric blanket. Either will make a big difference in a tent.
Neil
SNIP
>Drink if you are thirsty, but be aware of a tendency for some to drink just
>because of nerves. Collect urine individually. If the urine is as clear as the
>water you are drinking, then likely you are drinking more then needed. That
>persons rations will not be increased just because they have drank there 2 qt
>that day. If there urine is colored (darker is worse) then increase there
>ration by 1 qt per day and continue monitoring there urine until it lightens up
>to normal color (check your urine color now for a base to compare to). Between
>urination be sure to check using the pinch test (If you can pinch the loose
>skin on the back of your hand and it stays wrinkled, you need more water).
SNIP
Just one word of caution on this approach. Urine colour is mainly
determined by things other than concentration so though this is a good
basic rule you need to remember that urine is for example darkened by
pigments that the body excretes ( eg urochrome). Many things will
darken urine beetroot is a good example.
If you want precision and have the time specific gravity is more
accurate.
N
CanopyCo
(Neil) writes:
>Just one word of caution on this approach. Urine colour is mainly
>determined by things other than concentration so though this is a good
>basic rule you need to remember that urine is for example darkened by
>pigments that the body excretes ( eg urochrome). Many things will
>darken urine beetroot is a good example.
>
>If you want precision and have the time specific gravity is more
>accurate.
You are right about things darkening urine this is just a basic guide line.
Regarding the specific gravity, is this something that I can do in primitive
conditions?
I really have no idea how to go about this, but am real interested. Not only
would this be good info for survival in the wilds, but also useful for those
dealing with the elderly or disabled.
Skip Hammond
survival situation. Equipment is simple, and not particularly expensive,
but not something you would want taking up space in your pack.
This link explains the workings and construction of a hydrometer, used to
measure specific gravity.
http://www2.sptimes.com/aquarium/FA.4.2.4.html
Lab hydrometers are made of glass and are fairly fragile. Useful if you are
brewing beer or making wine, but not for field use by survivalists.
"CanopyCo" <cano...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20020328132533...@mb-fn.aol.com...
Apurva
Hi Lucy. I am a resident physician. Generally, we don't like to keep
our patients at the brink of death, so I'm not sure I'm qualified to
give you an answer as to the minimum water requirement (and indeed, it
varies greatly based on a person's weight, fat composition, if you're
having a fever or not, the air temperature, and humidity). However,
the main function you are concerened with in situations of potential
dehydration is kidney function, since your kidneys are one of the
first organs to be damaged by it. In the hospital, we tend to use 30
cc's of urine per hour as the minimum the kidney must produce in order
to keep it from failing. So 30 cc x 24 hours = 720 cc or about 3/4 of
a Liter of urine a day. If you are not producing that much urine a
day, you face the serious possibility of having reversible or even
irreversible kidney damage. So in a dire situation, you might want to
use that as a guage to determine if you are drinking enough. Keep in
mind that such a minimal quantity of water intake will most likely
also leave you weaker than usual, more sussceptible to feeling
light-headed with sudden changes in position, and in general feeling
miserable. But unless you have some serious medical problems (bad
heart, underlying kidney probelms, etc.), it should keep you alive.
Neil
<eham...@airmail.net> wrote:
>Measuring specific gravity is not something that is practical to do in a
>survival situation. Equipment is simple, and not particularly expensive,
>but not something you would want taking up space in your pack.
>
>This link explains the workings and construction of a hydrometer, used to
>measure specific gravity.
>
>http://www2.sptimes.com/aquarium/FA.4.2.4.html
>
>Lab hydrometers are made of glass and are fairly fragile. Useful if you are
>brewing beer or making wine, but not for field use by survivalists.
I would agree that there would be problems but the technique at its
simplest requires a glass "float" to be placed in a urine sample. A
full blown hydrometer is not needed. As you say they are delicate but
no impossible to handle. It was standard practice to measure Sp. Grav
in all patients on a ward. It is a valuable option if you are pushed
for some one who is ill and under extreme conditions it might be worth
it.
If you have the money the standard urine test strips that are used to
test urine often include an SG measure done by chemical means
Check out
http://www.sas-i.com/products/urinometers.html
or
http://www.bd.com/clinical/POL/products/lab/urinometer.asp
These show the device itself. Probably more useful under static
conditions I agree but not impossible to carry.
Just a thought but the underlying comment stands colour is not
reliable especially if your diet has changed ( loss of meat in the
diet would be a case in point).
Neil
Offbreed
> I would agree that there would be problems but the technique at its
> simplest requires a glass "float" to be placed in a urine sample. A
> full blown hydrometer is not needed. As you say they are delicate but
> no impossible to handle.
As is mentioned, a hydrometer is simply a float with a set of
calibrated markings along the side.
Other things can be used, such as a soda straw with a wt in one end. I
do not have any ideas as to the best or most expedient methods of
calibrating it, but such a float would be small and robust enough to
survive in a first aid kit.
Similar floats could be improvised for brewing booze.
charles krin
and a battery hygrometer, or one for candy making would also be
relatively robust...
ck
--
country doc in louisiana
(no fancy sayings right now)
Skip Hammond
"charles krin" <ck...@iamerica.net> wrote in message
news:1mg9auol58jt81tjv...@4ax.com...
In theory, I think this is OK, but battery fluid, mostly sulfuric acid, has
a very high SG, and big changes occur as the charge state changes. The
range of measurement needed to test urine would be off the scale of a
battery hydrometer. I would think that the change in SG of urine, from
healthy to critical would be relatively subtle. This means that a more
sensitive and more accurate hydrometer is required. That means larger.
Also, the hydrometer would have to be calibrated, or it would not provide
the quality of information needed. And calibration is temperature
dependant. Most are calibrated for 70 degrees F, the readings will be off
if it is significantly warmer or cooler.
A weighted soda straw, while a good demonstrator of the principle, would
lack both the sensitivity and calibration that are required to make the
technique work for determining whether a person has become dehydrated.
Presumably, it is possible to design and build a hydrometer that would meet
all of the criteria needed. And it would be possible to calculate a
temperature conversion chart. But I do not believe any that are
commercially available now meet the criteria for range, sensitivity and
ruggedness.
Offbreed
> Also, the hydrometer would have to be calibrated, or it would not provide
> the quality of information needed. And calibration is temperature
> dependant. Most are calibrated for 70 degrees F, the readings will be off
> if it is significantly warmer or cooler.
Calibration would be required, of course, but at 98.6F, so no
conversion charts needed.
I wonder if a battery acid *type* tester with the little balls would
work, maybe for 3rd world countries. Test strips cost money and the
bulb base float type is fragile and expensive. The clinics are usually
broke.
Skip Hammond
"Offbreed" <Offb...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:d3d158d1.02032...@posting.google.com...
That would give the ruggedness, if it could be built with the requisite
accuracy. The real key would be in getting it manufactured. You would have
to produce a lot of them to make it worth setting up to manufacture the
balls at the exact densities needed. And it does not seem to be a product
that would be in high demand with the consuming public.
CanopyCo
"Skip Hammond" <eham...@airmail.net> writes:
>That would give the ruggedness, if it could be built with the requisite
>accuracy. The real key would be in getting it manufactured. You would have
>to produce a lot of them to make it worth setting up to manufacture the
>balls at the exact densities needed. And it does not seem to be a product
>that would be in high demand with the consuming public.
>
Maybe a battery acid or antifreeze tester of this type would work for our
needs.
No need for exact density, just keep (for example) no more then 1 ball
floating.
The exact number of balls floating would need to be determined, but the above
is an example of a rule for use.
Anyone have one of these type of testers around?
Piss in a cup.
Test it to see if it floats balls.
If it did, then set the urine out in the sun to let the water evaporate, and
test it again.
Did the tester float less balls?
Is there a rule that you can make up in order to use this? (Like, if it floats
1 ball all the way to the top, you need water)
Skip Hammond
I think that the range of SG that a battery tester would measure would be
off scale for urine, but it could be worth a test.
If one of the medical types will post the actual SG ranges for normal urine
and the change that indicates dehydration, then a hydrometer that covers
this range could use it to calibrate test solutions made from table salt in
water to match the SG that is needed. Then they can use the salt water to
test the battery hydrometer. Calibration would be important if the battery
hydrometer was to be used to determine dehydration. It would have to be
determined that the difference in the SG of the urine would cause at least a
one ball difference in the hydrometer. It might be possible to evaporate
urine in the sun to a point that would float a ball, but would be way past
the danger point for dehydration
charles krin
I'll have to dig around...but it shouldn't be that hard...
no balls floating, abnormal dilute urine (<1.005)
one ball floating, dilute urine (1.005-1.010)
two balls floating, normal concentration (1.010-1.020)
three balls floating, high normal concentration (1.020-1.030)
four balls floating, abnormal high concentration (>1.030)
Most of the time the clinical laboratories use refractometer to
measure the concentration...rather than a float type...
charles krin
<eham...@airmail.net> wrote:
>I think that the range of SG that a battery tester would measure would be
>off scale for urine, but it could be worth a test.
>If one of the medical types will post the actual SG ranges for normal urine
>and the change that indicates dehydration, then a hydrometer that covers
>this range could use it to calibrate test solutions made from table salt in
>water to match the SG that is needed. Then they can use the salt water to
>test the battery hydrometer. Calibration would be important if the battery
>hydrometer was to be used to determine dehydration. It would have to be
>determined that the difference in the SG of the urine would cause at least a
>one ball difference in the hydrometer. It might be possible to evaporate
>urine in the sun to a point that would float a ball, but would be way past
>the danger point for dehydration
already posted...and will be digging out the cheapy later this week...
CanopyCo
<ck...@iamerica.net> writes:
>I'll have to dig around...but it shouldn't be that hard...
>
>no balls floating, abnormal dilute urine (<1.005)
>
>one ball floating, dilute urine (1.005-1.010)
>
>two balls floating, normal concentration (1.010-1.020)
>
>three balls floating, high normal concentration (1.020-1.030)
>
>four balls floating, abnormal high concentration (>1.030)
>
>Most of the time the clinical laboratories use refractometer to
>measure the concentration...rather than a float type...
>
>
I wonder who makes the little balls in a antifreeze tester?
Each ball is designed to float at a set minimum density, so the tube actually
would not be needed. Just drop the balls into the liquid and see how many
float. Yes, retrieval would be a potential problem, but easily solved. I wonder
if the makers of the antifreeze tester balls also make other balls that float
at the desired densities? Then we could make our own tester.