Vermont castings woodstove cracked - any advice?
HiCam
reliable (up to now anyway) vermont castings catalytic elm has just cracked
the back cast iron plate on this barrel stove. What are my options? Can it
be repaired? Vermont castings doesn't make this stove anymore.
Just looking for any ideas out there.
--
Jim Gizzi
j...@hicam.com
www.hicam.com
Hi-Cam Aerial, Commercial and Digital Imaging
S Unger
1. Weld with special cast-iron arc-welding rods. Disadvantage is that cast-iron
is treacherous to weld and may cause more problems.
2. Drill 1/8" holes in each end of crack and fill with high temp silicate
furnace cement (Rutland Stove Cement, Walmart, $2.63/lb). Or just leave open
after drilling if fumes are not passing outwardly from crack.
3. Brazing can repair cast-iron but would probably not be appropriate for a wood
stove. Maybe someone else has used this with success?
S.
CAVM
>reliable (up to now anyway) vermont castings catalytic elm has just cracked
>the back cast iron plate on this barrel stove
You may be able to get the local cast iron shop to make a replacement but
likely they can weld this back together for you.
I have a Vermont Defiant and the hinge on the front door broke free from the
stove front so I am going to try a liquid weld from the restoration folks.
They say it works for high temp applications on iron.
Willard (Jack) Davis
HiCam
Works Stove.
"HiCam" <j...@nospamhicam.com> wrote in message
news:aVzo6.507123$U46.15...@news1.sttls1.wa.home.com...
Geof Gonter
> 1. Weld with special cast-iron arc-welding rods. Disadvantage is that
> cast-iron is treacherous to weld and may cause more problems.
I have had success using a wire feed welder, with the right wire,
welding cast iron on some equipment that really pounds, like a
Montgomery Wood Hog with 3/4" thick cast iron plates. It held together
for 6 months till we got the replacement part and installed it. Perhaps
the original poster might have luck with machine shop or speciality
welder that has a wire feed.
Geof---
Visit one or all of Vermont's MUGs:
Burlington's MacChamp at http://www.macchamp.org/
NVMUG at http://www.sover.net/~nvmug
Wired Women at http://www.wiredwomen.com/
Foxeye
On Mon, 05 Mar 2001 02:11:46 GMT, "HiCam" <j...@nospamhicam.com> wrote:
>x<>-It's not a Vermont Castings stove, sorry I goofed. It's a Vermont Iron
>x<>-Works Stove.
>x<>-
>x<>-"HiCam" <j...@nospamhicam.com> wrote in message
>x<>-news:aVzo6.507123$U46.15...@news1.sttls1.wa.home.com...
>x<>-> Of course, winter (ok kinda winter anyway) energy costs go up and our
>x<>-> reliable (up to now anyway) vermont castings catalytic elm has just
>x<>-cracked
>x<>-> the back cast iron plate on this barrel stove. What are my options? Can
>x<>-it
>x<>-> be repaired? Vermont castings doesn't make this stove anymore.
>x<>->
>x<>-> Just looking for any ideas out there.
>x<>->
>x<>-> --
>x<>-> Jim Gizzi
>x<>-> j...@hicam.com
>x<>-> www.hicam.com
>x<>-> Hi-Cam Aerial, Commercial and Digital Imaging
>x<>->
>x<>->
>x<>-
Opinions are strictly those of my wife....I have had no input whatsoever.
Remove capital A from chipmkr for correct email address
Regards
Foxeye
James Washer
have 'experience' in this area.
Now, I'll open my mouth and take a chance.. The biggest problem I've found
with welding cast iron, is getting it pre-heated nicely, and making sure it
cools slowly.. Well, both of those problems seem easy with a wood stove.
Build a fire, get it hot, weld it up, let the fire burn out slowly.. all
should be well.
- jim
"HiCam" <j...@nospamhicam.com> wrote in message
news:aVzo6.507123$U46.15...@news1.sttls1.wa.home.com...
HiCam
this newsgroup. Any opinions on that.
"James Washer" <was...@trlp.com> wrote in message
news:5zVo6.212$lY1....@newsfeed.intelenet.net...
Foxeye
material with same type filler rod......Brazing is a quick and easy
way, and not always the best way. Filling in crack with the proper
rod, after preparing the crack properly and filling in with the proper
cast iron / nickle rod it should be as good as new.
On Tue, 06 Mar 2001 01:52:34 GMT, "HiCam" <j...@nospamhicam.com> wrote:
>x<>-Hmmm, now I'm hearing that it should be brazed from some sources outside of
>x<>-this newsgroup. Any opinions on that.
>x<>-
>x<>-"James Washer" <was...@trlp.com> wrote in message
>x<>-news:5zVo6.212$lY1....@newsfeed.intelenet.net...
>x<>-> First, I've cross posted this to the welding group, as they would likely
>x<>-> have 'experience' in this area.
>x<>->
>x<>-> Now, I'll open my mouth and take a chance.. The biggest problem I've found
>x<>-> with welding cast iron, is getting it pre-heated nicely, and making sure
>x<>-it
>x<>-> cools slowly.. Well, both of those problems seem easy with a wood stove.
>x<>-> Build a fire, get it hot, weld it up, let the fire burn out slowly.. all
>x<>-> should be well.
>x<>->
>x<>-> - jim
>x<>->
>x<>->
>x<>-> "HiCam" <j...@nospamhicam.com> wrote in message
>x<>-> news:aVzo6.507123$U46.15...@news1.sttls1.wa.home.com...
>x<>-> > Of course, winter (ok kinda winter anyway) energy costs go up and our
>x<>-> > reliable (up to now anyway) vermont castings catalytic elm has just
>x<>-> cracked
>x<>-> > the back cast iron plate on this barrel stove. What are my options?
>x<>-Can
>x<>-> it
Larry Caldwell
chip...@hotmail.com writes:
> Brazing will work however there is no substitute for repairing said
> material with same type filler rod......Brazing is a quick and easy
> way, and not always the best way. Filling in crack with the proper
> rod, after preparing the crack properly and filling in with the proper
> cast iron / nickle rod it should be as good as new.
Brazing is often preferable because it is a low temperature fix that
won't alter the structure of the cast iron, and the brass is softer than
the casting and malleable, which allows it to relieve tension. Both
factors reduce subsequent cracking.
There is a reason the casting cracked in the first place. It may have
been a casting flaw that left tension in the metal that now as been
relieved. Or it may be related to the installation and thermal
expansion/contraction. If it is the latter, brazing is the preferred
fix.
--
No one can ever have enough books, pockets, friends, guns, or garlic.
jiva
>Hmmm, now I'm hearing that it should be brazed from some sources outside of
>this newsgroup. Any opinions on that.
>
we presume you are going to be limited by local resources. I'd ask around at
stove shops, automotive shops etc about who has the skills for cast iron
repairs.
JP
said they had a lifetime guarantee. If it's the same company, those
things aren't cheap and are very nice and ornate. It's worth
checking.
Take care,
JP
James Washer
brass in (not so ) normal use.. I've had my vermont casting stove hot enough
to glow red.. Yes, I know I shouldn't, but one occasion, I've left the door
slightly ajar, and had a ripping hot fire in there.
- jim
"jiva" <jiva*@humboldt1.com> wrote in message
news:3aa515bb...@news.humboldt1.com...
Foxeye
those years of use. It most likely was overfired, or too hot of a fire
built to quickly in the cold stove or perhaps damaged by chunking logs
into the firebox. Its the back liner IIRC. It could have just gotten
thin from rust and corrosiion and normal use and not cleqaning
properly as well, but not a flaw after all these years. Cast iron
filler rod is still the preferred method, brazing is simply a get by
On Tue, 6 Mar 2001 06:22:14 -0800, Larry Caldwell
<lar...@teleport.com> wrote:
>x<>-In article <fkh8atorkq886kpoq...@4ax.com>,
>x<>-chip...@hotmail.com writes:
>x<>-
>x<>-> Brazing will work however there is no substitute for repairing said
>x<>-> material with same type filler rod......Brazing is a quick and easy
>x<>-> way, and not always the best way. Filling in crack with the proper
>x<>-> rod, after preparing the crack properly and filling in with the proper
>x<>-> cast iron / nickle rod it should be as good as new.
>x<>-
>x<>-Brazing is often preferable because it is a low temperature fix that
>x<>-won't alter the structure of the cast iron, and the brass is softer than
>x<>-the casting and malleable, which allows it to relieve tension. Both
>x<>-factors reduce subsequent cracking.
>x<>-
>x<>-There is a reason the casting cracked in the first place. It may have
>x<>-been a casting flaw that left tension in the metal that now as been
>x<>-relieved. Or it may be related to the installation and thermal
>x<>-expansion/contraction. If it is the latter, brazing is the preferred
>x<>-fix.
Roger Duncan
http://www.locknstitch.com/
john miller
the catalytic combustor compartment broke off. Since it was so small, I
brazed it. It didn't last. To make matters worse I believe that the braze
material messed up the catalytic combustor -- it hasn't seemed to work
right since.
John Miller
jiva <jiva*@humboldt1.com> wrote in article
<3aa515bb...@news.humboldt1.com>...
> On Tue, 06 Mar 2001 01:52:34 GMT, "HiCam" <j...@nospamhicam.com> wrote:
>
> >Hmmm, now I'm hearing that it should be brazed from some sources outside
of
> stove shops, automotive shops etc about who has the skills for cast iron
> repairs.
>
>
Randy Zimmerman
time was an old machinist and he wasn't inclined to have me watching over
his shoulder.
"Roger Duncan" <fi...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:3aa5b7d1...@news1.lig.bellsouth.net...