Testing Low Oil Sensor on Honda GX Engine
Ulysses
thought was that it was low on oil. I checked it and it seemed to be within
the acceptable level but filled it to full. Didn't help.
I took out the spark plug and grounded it and the spark looked weak and
intermittant. I tried switching the ON/OFF switch a few times and jiggled
the wires but no noticeable improvement. I checked to see if anything was
grounding out but could find nothing. I tried disconnecting the wires to
the ON/OFF switch and the low oil sensor but no luck.
There is a small (1 inch square) metal box that is connected to the ON/OFF
switch and the low oil sensor. Is this the electronic ignition module? I
looked in my Hayne's Small Engine Repair manual but it didn't show such a
thing. It also mentioned the existance of low oil sensors but had no info
for the Honda engines. The owner's manual that came with the engine doesn't
even suggest checking the oil if the engine won't start!
Is there a way to test the low oil sensor or bypass it temporarily to check
it? Is there a way to test the ignition module? The ignition coil does not
appear to be damaged in any way and is not loose or obviously out of
adjustment but I'm going to try to check it with an ohmmeter.
The engine was running normally and suddenly stopped. I started it again
and it ran for a few minutes and then suddenly stopped again. It acts like
it has a loose connection or something but I can't find any.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Doug Miller
>My generator with a Honda GX270 engine suddenly stopped running. My first
>thought was that it was low on oil. I checked it and it seemed to be within
>the acceptable level but filled it to full. Didn't help.
>
>I took out the spark plug and grounded it and the spark looked weak and
>intermittant.
So what on earth makes you think, *still*, that the low oil sensor has
anything to do with the problem?
A weak, intermittent spark is clearly a sign of an ignition problem of some
sort.
Have you tried cleaning, or replacing, the spark plug to see if that improves
matters? That should be the first step. If that doesn't help, check the spark
plug wire, and then the ignition module.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
Ulysses
"Doug Miller" <spam...@milmac.com> wrote in message
news:oPKge.1533$j17....@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com...
> In article <1186tfe...@corp.supernews.com>, "Ulysses"
<thereal...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >My generator with a Honda GX270 engine suddenly stopped running. My
first
> >thought was that it was low on oil. I checked it and it seemed to be
within
> >the acceptable level but filled it to full. Didn't help.
> >
> >I took out the spark plug and grounded it and the spark looked weak and
> >intermittant.
>
> So what on earth makes you think, *still*, that the low oil sensor has
> anything to do with the problem?
Well, I'm not sure just what the low oil sensor does but I assumed it
grounds the ignition so there would be no spark. From what you are saying
it sounds like I should get it out of my mind...
>
> A weak, intermittent spark is clearly a sign of an ignition problem of
some
> sort.
>
> Have you tried cleaning, or replacing, the spark plug to see if that
improves
> matters? That should be the first step. If that doesn't help, check the
spark
> plug wire, and then the ignition module.
I tried a new plug and everything was the same. How do I check the ignition
module?
Doug Miller
Isn't that covered in your service manual?
Peter Mounsey
"Ulysses" <thereal...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1186tfe...@corp.supernews.com...
OK.
The black box is the ignition amp.
Are you running it connected to a starter battery? I do with mine and I'm
not sure how it would run without.
If you have tried restarting it then the plug should be wet and you should
smell petrol from the exhaust.
Is your petrol gravity fed or pumped (mine is pumped by a diaphragm pump on
the engine)?
Any likelihood of water in the petrol, maybe from condensation?
IMHO if you can see any kind of spark, I'd start looking at the fuel system.
Pete.
Ulysses
No. All I have is an "owner's manual." I just gives the basics like spark
gap and what kind of oil to use.
Ulysses
"Peter Mounsey" <moun...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:PUNge.2147$X86....@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...
Ignition amp eh? I don't think I've seen one before. Any way to test it?
> Are you running it connected to a starter battery? I do with mine and I'm
> not sure how it would run without.
This one is just recoil start only. It usually starts easily with one or
two pulls even when it's below freezing.
> If you have tried restarting it then the plug should be wet and you should
> smell petrol from the exhaust.
> Is your petrol gravity fed
Gravity fed.
or pumped (mine is pumped by a diaphragm pump on
> the engine)?
> Any likelihood of water in the petrol, maybe from condensation?
Extremely unlikely. I use the generator regularly and store my gas can
carefully.
> IMHO if you can see any kind of spark, I'd start looking at the fuel
system.
>
> Pete.
>
Thanks. Pete. I'm pretty sure it's at least getting fuel to the carburator
and the plug is wet after I try starting it. I have no spark at all now.
>
G Wood
start). Spray it into your carburator intake and try to start the engine.
If the engine starts, then you have a fuel supply, carburation problem. If
it doesn't then the ignition swystem is faulty.
Good Luck,
Gerry
Doug Miller
>
>"Doug Miller" <spam...@milmac.com> wrote in message
>news:w5Mge.1556$j17...@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com...
>> In article <1186vml...@corp.supernews.com>, "Ulysses"
><thereal...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> >I tried a new plug and everything was the same. How do I check the
>> >ignition module?
>>
>> Isn't that covered in your service manual?
>
>No. All I have is an "owner's manual." I just gives the basics like spark
>gap and what kind of oil to use.
Need to find a service and repair manual for it then. Contact the
manufacturer; I'm sure they'll have one.
scott
news:1186tfe...@corp.supernews.com:
Hi,
The small metal box is a signal conditioner for the shutoff sensor in the
crankcase, it is probably just a scr that once is triggered, latches to
make sure that the engine dies and also lowers the load on the reed switch
in the sensor so it won't be damaged when vibration causes the switch to
repeatedly open and close, damaging it and causing loss of protection. I
work in a mower shop, we used to see reel type mowers that the customer
told us would cut out at each turn for weeks as the switch was repeatedly
triggered by slosh .Later on, this was the engine that died from lack of
oil when the sensor failed.
To test the ignition separately from the sensor and all other parts, just
disconnect the small gauge wire from the coil that hooks to the stop switch
and the sensor. It is very simple, they just ground the ignition primary
(small) wire to kill the engine.
You are probably just seeing normal operation when oil gets low. When
the engine starts, oil is sprayed by the oil slinger all through the
engine, and what is om the crankcase walls lowers the level a small amount,
shutting off the engine. Engine dies, oil runs back to bottom. switch
opens, and it will restart.
Full oil level is top of the threads, about to run out. I havbe seen
engines that will die at three threads below full (threads inside the oil
fill hole).
Proper spark should be white or blue when viewed indoors as in a garage
out of direct sun, and should jump at least a 3/8" gap- take a old plug, cu
off the ground electrode and you have a tester, the spark should jump from
the center electrode to the outside and you should be even able to hear a
good strong spark. Weak, erratic and yellow colored spark indicates a
problem.
Good luck
Scott
twil...@cybermesa.net
On 2005-05-12 thereal...@yahoo.com said:
>Newsgroups: alt.energy.homepower,misc.rural
My Winco 5KW generator is powered by a Honda GX340Max with its low-oil
sensor disconnected.
Maybe this description of its connections will help you test yours.
Viewed from the pull-starter end:
black sleeved wire with female connector, from next to the cylinder
base, is plugged to black male wire coming out of bottom of the base
of the kill switch.
Unconnected wires:
sleeved female white, from hole in case below kill switch and behind
fan cover
black and yellow leads from oil sensor.
My engine has an unused electric starter and I have found no " one
inch square metal box" (removed by previous owner?).
Where did it mount?
Spark from electronic ignitions are thin-looking compared to points
ignitions (including magnetos), and faint to see. The suggestion to
use a 3/8" test gap, spark plug with side electrode removed is
interesting, since gap from center electrode to shell on the stock,
projected-core-nose plug is a tad over 1/8". Reshape the side wire
to a gap smaller than the path to the shell for a tester: spark will
be out in the open where you are more likely to see it.
Tom Willmon
near Mountainair, (mid) New Mexico, USA
Sattinger's Law: It works better if you plug it in.
Net-Tamer V 1.12.0 - Registered
Ulysses
"Neon John" <j...@johngsbbq.com> wrote in message
news:pko98195mp6comf8o...@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 12 May 2005 08:27:41 -0700, "Ulysses"
> <thereal...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >My generator with a Honda GX270 engine suddenly stopped running. My
first
> >thought was that it was low on oil. I checked it and it seemed to be
within
> >the acceptable level but filled it to full. Didn't help.
> >
> >I took out the spark plug and grounded it and the spark looked weak and
> >intermittant. I tried switching the ON/OFF switch a few times and
jiggled
> >the wires but no noticeable improvement. I checked to see if anything
was
> >grounding out but could find nothing. I tried disconnecting the wires to
> >the ON/OFF switch and the low oil sensor but no luck.
> >
> >There is a small (1 inch square) metal box that is connected to the
ON/OFF
> >switch and the low oil sensor. Is this the electronic ignition module?
I
> >looked in my Hayne's Small Engine Repair manual but it didn't show such a
> >thing. It also mentioned the existance of low oil sensors but had no
info
> >for the Honda engines. The owner's manual that came with the engine
doesn't
> >even suggest checking the oil if the engine won't start!
>
> engines. I highly recommend getting the factory manual. Invaluable
> if you ever need to troubleshoot the generator side.
>
> The little box connected to the oil sensor is a combination time delay
> and latch. It prevents the engine from being killed by oil sloshes,
> tilting of the engine and the like. When the time delay expires the
> box latch the ignition off to make sure the engine stops.
>
> It would be possible for the box to cause a weak spark but not likely.
> The usual failure modes are that either it doesn't work at all or it
> shorts the spark completely. You should be able to disconnect the box
> completely to test.
>
> I'm not sure which engine is on that generator but in general the
> Honda electronic ignition is built into the magneto coil. A weak (and
> mis-timed) spark is a common failure mode.
It's the GX270. From what you and everybody else told me it all points to
the magneto coil. I just wanted to be pretty sure before I spend $65 on
one.
>
> The way this ignition works is that as the flywheel magnet approaches
> the coil, voltage is induced in the coil and stored in a capacitor.
> As the magnet passes through the center of the magneto there is a
> sudden flux reversal. The magneto detects this and dumps the cap into
> the coil making the spark. The timing is set by the flux reversal.
>
> When the electronics fail the flux reversal itself can usually cause a
> small, weak spark but its timing is indeterminate. Replacing the
> magneto coil solves the problem.
>
> Once you remove the cowl to access the magneto, you can test all the
> external circuits by disconnecting the low voltage wire(s) from the
> magneto. There will be one, maybe two. One is the ignition wire that
> is grounded to kill the engine. The other, if it exists supplies DC
> power for battery charging and the oil sensor. The magneto is fully
> self-contained so it should spark strongly even when the flywheel is
> turned by hand with all the low voltage wires disconnected.
Thanks. I'll test it as you said, but it looks like it's the only thing
left at this point that could be the problem.
The Hayne's manual has some very vague instructions with some very bad photo
showing how to test the magneto coil for continuity but from what you said
that would be pointless. As for throwing it away (Hayne's) it does have
valve clearances and such but other than that it has not been a lot of help
(with other engines too).
>
> This photo shows a typical Honda magneto. It's the black thing
> sitting at an angle on the left.
>
>
http://www.johngsbbq.com/Neon_John_site/Generator/Honda_GX_31_engine/Photo_1
1.jpg
>
> This photo is of the Honda mini-4-stroke engine used on their weed
> whackers but the magneto is representative.
>
> John
> >
> >Is there a way to test the low oil sensor or bypass it temporarily to
check
> >it? Is there a way to test the ignition module? The ignition coil does
not
> >appear to be damaged in any way and is not loose or obviously out of
> >adjustment but I'm going to try to check it with an ohmmeter.
> >
> >The engine was running normally and suddenly stopped. I started it again
> >and it ran for a few minutes and then suddenly stopped again. It acts
like
> >it has a loose connection or something but I can't find any.
> >
> >Any suggestions?
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
>
> ---
> John De Armond
> j...@johngsbbq.com
> http://www.johngsbbq.com
> Cleveland, Occupied TN
Ulysses
"Neon John" <j...@johngsbbq.com> wrote in message > This photo shows a
typical Honda magneto. It's the black thing
> sitting at an angle on the left.
>
>
http://www.johngsbbq.com/Neon_John_site/Generator/Honda_GX_31_engine/Photo_1
1.jpg
>
> This photo is of the Honda mini-4-stroke engine used on their weed
> whackers but the magneto is representative.
>
Ryobi 2 stroke and I usually have to fiddle around with it for half an hour
to get the thing running right so I can use it for 15 minutes. Noisy and
dirty (engine) too.
twil...@cybermesa.net
On 2005-05-13 thereal...@yahoo.com said:
>Newsgroups: alt.energy.homepower,misc.rural
>"Neon John" <j...@johngsbbq.com> wrote in message
[snip]
>com/Neon_John_site/Generator/Honda_GX_31_engine/Photo_1 1.jpg
>> This photo is of the Honda mini-4-stroke engine used on their weed
>> whackers but the magneto is representative.
Anyone check out his home page:
>> http://www.johngsbbq.com
Looks like some dynamite BBQ!
in
>> Cleveland, Occupied TN
Too bad so far away. These southwesterners do great brisket, but few
can match southeastern pork BBQ (most don't come anywhere near!).
Tom Willmon
near Mountainair, (mid) New Mexico, USA
Never eat more than you can lift. (Miss Piggy)
twil...@cybermesa.net
On 2005-05-13 thereal...@yahoo.com said:
>Newsgroups: alt.energy.homepower,misc.rural
>"Neon John" <j...@johngsbbq.com> wrote in message > This photo shows
>a typical Honda magneto. It's the black thing
>> sitting at an angle on the left.
>http://www.johngsbbq.
>com/Neon_John_site/Generator/Honda_GX_31_engine/Photo_1 1.jpg
>> This photo is of the Honda mini-4-stroke engine used on their weed
>> whackers but the magneto is representative.
>That must be a blessing having a 4 stroke Honda weedwacker engine.
>I have a Ryobi 2 stroke and I usually have to fiddle around with it
>for half an hour to get the thing running right so I can use it for
>15 minutes. Noisy and dirty (engine) too.
I have an unreasonable dislike of changing engine oil (though in a
weed swatter it would be a trivial job) and buy 2-stroke for my light
portable machines. Properly tuned and running a good high-ratio oil
(I use Bel Ray MC-1 motorcycle at 64:1, same as in my bikes), I see
no smoke and barely smell exhaust, never foul plugs (20 yr.-old chain
saw is still on original plug). Echo engines take 4 pulls usually,
bikes 1 kick, when you know the starting drill. RTFM?
thereany
Tom Willmon
near Mountainair, (mid) New Mexico, USA
Ask me about my vow of silence.
scott
> My Winco 5KW generator is powered by a Honda GX340Max with its low-oil
> sensor disconnected.
>
> inch square metal box" (removed by previous owner?).
> Where did it mount?
>
> Spark from electronic ignitions are thin-looking compared to points
> ignitions (including magnetos), and faint to see. The suggestion to
> use a 3/8" test gap, spark plug with side electrode removed is
> interesting, since gap from center electrode to shell on the stock,
> projected-core-nose plug is a tad over 1/8". Reshape the side wire
> to a gap smaller than the path to the shell for a tester: spark will
> be out in the open where you are more likely to see it.
>
>
>
>
> Tom Willmon
> near Mountainair, (mid) New Mexico, USA
>
> Sattinger's Law: It works better if you plug it in.
>
> Net-Tamer V 1.12.0 - Registered
>
Earlier versions of the system did not use the "oil alert unit" (metal
box). If memory serves correcly, the new system has been out only about
three years. I could not tell you by serial number breaks as Honda does not
publish production date vs serial # info as far as I know. Call your local
small engine repair shop and have model#, spec type (four letter/number id
such as QAE2, QX**. Asterisks are used to fill unused spaces) and serial
number and they can tell you if it is missing or did not come with one.
Scott
p.s. running without oil alert is not wise.
Neon John
Yes it is. I used the Honda engine to build a hand held battery
charger but I have a Ryobi 4 stroke weed whacker. I'd never go back.
It starts the first or second pull and will actually idle smoothly. I
can't say that the noise is a lot different because the engine turns
at about the same RPM as a 2-stroke one but it is somehow less
annoying.
I've just about completely converted to electric tools including the
chainsaw because I'm SOOOO tired of all the small engine maintenance.
I have a homemade power pack (golf cart batteries, inverter, charger)
mounted on a 2-wheeled hand cart for smaller jobs and a 2kw gas
generator mounted on another 2 wheel hand cart for the longer jobs. I
just roll the power pack out to the vicinity of the work and then use
a lightweight 18 ga cord to get power to the appliance. I've cranked
the voltage up on both the generator and power pack to compensate for
the small cord.
It is REALLY amazing how much less tired one is at the end of a day of
cutting firewood without the heavy vibration, noise and weight of a
gas chainsaw. My mid-size Remington has a 16" bar and is as fast as
one of the mid-sized homeowner type gas saws. Husky has a very
powerful gear drive electric but I haven't needed that much power yet.
I use my cube van http://www.johngsbbq.com/Truck.html for gathering
firewood. I've mounted a 2kw inverter permanently in the truck. The
alternator can feed it continuously. It's powerful enough to run any
of my electric implements. I also have one of those cheap chicom 120
volt operated winches (harbor freight).
I cut down a tree and de-limb it. I use the winch to drag the trunk
to my truck. The truck has a lift gate and I've discovered a neat
trick. I winch the big end of the trunk onto the lift gate so that
the end sticks over the edge. I raise the gate until the trunk is
pinched between the gate and the truck body. This lifts the entire
trunk up to about waist level. I can then casually walk along the
trunk to buck it with the saw without having to bend over. And
without having to stumble over the limbs. For my tired old body this
is a Godsend.
I've built several wheeled log racks. I just roll the rack out of the
truck, load it with logs, winch it back on the lift gate, jack it up
and roll it into the truck. At home I roll the rack off the lift gate
and into its place in the storage shed. That way I only handle logs
twice. Once when stacking them on the rack and once when I take it to
the wood heater.
It took a bit of work initially but now this system lets me gather as
much wood in a day as I did 30 years ago when I was a young'n'strong
whippersnapper :=)
John
Offbreed
> That must be a blessing having a 4 stroke Honda weedwacker engine. I have a
> Ryobi 2 stroke
How big? I have a 51.7 (old Sears) I can't use and don't want to throw
away.
Ulysses
> On Fri, 13 May 2005 12:48:41 -0700, "Ulysses"
> <thereal...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Neon John" <j...@johngsbbq.com> wrote in message > This photo shows a
> >typical Honda magneto. It's the black thing
> >> sitting at an angle on the left.
> >>
> >>
>
>http://www.johngsbbq.com/Neon_John_site/Generator/Honda_GX_31_engine/Photo_
1
> >1.jpg
> >>
> >> This photo is of the Honda mini-4-stroke engine used on their weed
> >> whackers but the magneto is representative.
> >>
> >That must be a blessing having a 4 stroke Honda weedwacker engine. I
have a
> >Ryobi 2 stroke and I usually have to fiddle around with it for half an
hour
> >to get the thing running right so I can use it for 15 minutes. Noisy and
> >dirty (engine) too.
>
> chainsaw because I'm SOOOO tired of all the small engine maintenance.
Yea, I've been using more electric saws etc. too. So many less engines to
have to mess with. I find it easier to take a small generator to wherever I
need to do the job and use an electric chain saw or whatever. The generator
gives me more versatility too. I do, however, have a huge oak tree that
fell and I kinda doubt that my little electric chain saw will be able to
deal with it. I may have to rent a big gas saw for a day...
The truck has a lift gate and I've discovered a neat
> trick. I winch the big end of the trunk onto the lift gate so that
> the end sticks over the edge. I raise the gate until the trunk is
> pinched between the gate and the truck body. This lifts the entire
> trunk up to about waist level. I can then casually walk along the
> trunk to buck it with the saw without having to bend over. And
> without having to stumble over the limbs. For my tired old body this
> is a Godsend.
I really like your lift-gate method. I'm old and tired too.
>
Ulysses
"scott" <sc...@screwspambots.net> wrote in message
news:Xns9655D28...@207.115.63.158...
Huh. I HAD a Coleman Pulse 1850 generator with a 3.5 HP B&S engine. The
owner's manual mentioned that the Pulse 1750 had low oil shutdown. Well, I
didn't notice the difference in model numbers and guess what happened? It
now has a Honda engine ;)
Ulysses
"Offbreed" <offbre...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2eCdnSAEiuL...@scnresearch.com...
I'm not quite sure what you are saying. You have a 51.7cc engine to sell?
Offbreed
> "Offbreed" <offbre...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:2eCdnSAEiuL...@scnresearch.com...
>>How big? I have a 51.7 (old Sears) I can't use and don't want to throw
>>away.
>
>
> I'm not quite sure what you are saying. You have a 51.7cc engine to sell?
For enough to cover shipping. The gas tank fittings were rubber and some
idiot "did me a favor" by adding carb cleaner to the gas and ran it. All
the rubber fittings dissolved. It's been stored dry for a few years.
Ran great, back when. I used it for hours, clearing brush.
Ulysses
> On Thu, 12 May 2005 08:27:41 -0700, "Ulysses"
> <thereal...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >My generator with a Honda GX270 engine suddenly stopped running. My
first
> >thought was that it was low on oil. I checked it and it seemed to be
within
> >the acceptable level but filled it to full. Didn't help.
> >
> >I took out the spark plug and grounded it and the spark looked weak and
> >intermittant. I tried switching the ON/OFF switch a few times and
jiggled
> >the wires but no noticeable improvement. I checked to see if anything
was
> >grounding out but could find nothing. I tried disconnecting the wires to
> >the ON/OFF switch and the low oil sensor but no luck.
> >
> >There is a small (1 inch square) metal box that is connected to the
ON/OFF
> >switch and the low oil sensor. Is this the electronic ignition module?
I
> >looked in my Hayne's Small Engine Repair manual but it didn't show such a
> >thing. It also mentioned the existance of low oil sensors but had no
info
> >for the Honda engines. The owner's manual that came with the engine
doesn't
> >even suggest checking the oil if the engine won't start!
>
> engines. I highly recommend getting the factory manual. Invaluable
> if you ever need to troubleshoot the generator side.
>
> The little box connected to the oil sensor is a combination time delay
> and latch. It prevents the engine from being killed by oil sloshes,
> tilting of the engine and the like. When the time delay expires the
> box latch the ignition off to make sure the engine stops.
>
> It would be possible for the box to cause a weak spark but not likely.
> The usual failure modes are that either it doesn't work at all or it
> shorts the spark completely. You should be able to disconnect the box
> completely to test.
>
> I'm not sure which engine is on that generator but in general the
> Honda electronic ignition is built into the magneto coil. A weak (and
> mis-timed) spark is a common failure mode.
It turned out to be the ignition coil. Stuck a new one on it and it runs
great.
>
> The way this ignition works is that as the flywheel magnet approaches
> the coil, voltage is induced in the coil and stored in a capacitor.
> As the magnet passes through the center of the magneto there is a
> sudden flux reversal. The magneto detects this and dumps the cap into
> the coil making the spark. The timing is set by the flux reversal.
>
> When the electronics fail the flux reversal itself can usually cause a
> small, weak spark but its timing is indeterminate. Replacing the
> magneto coil solves the problem.
>
> Once you remove the cowl to access the magneto, you can test all the
> external circuits by disconnecting the low voltage wire(s) from the
> magneto. There will be one, maybe two. One is the ignition wire that
> is grounded to kill the engine. The other, if it exists supplies DC
> power for battery charging and the oil sensor. The magneto is fully
> self-contained so it should spark strongly even when the flywheel is
> turned by hand with all the low voltage wires disconnected.
>
> This photo shows a typical Honda magneto. It's the black thing
> sitting at an angle on the left.
>
>
http://www.johngsbbq.com/Neon_John_site/Generator/Honda_GX_31_engine/Photo_1
1.jpg
>
> This photo is of the Honda mini-4-stroke engine used on their weed
> whackers but the magneto is representative.
>
> John
> >
> >Is there a way to test the low oil sensor or bypass it temporarily to
check
> >it? Is there a way to test the ignition module? The ignition coil does
not
> >appear to be damaged in any way and is not loose or obviously out of
> >adjustment but I'm going to try to check it with an ohmmeter.
> >
> >The engine was running normally and suddenly stopped. I started it again
> >and it ran for a few minutes and then suddenly stopped again. It acts
like
> >it has a loose connection or something but I can't find any.
> >
> >Any suggestions?
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
>
Vaughn
>
>
> It turned out to be the ignition coil. Stuck a new one on it and it runs
> great.
>
Thanks; now we are all a bit smarter.
Vaughn
Ulysses
length and then the ultimate, verified solution is not posted. This happens
to me frequently when doing NG searches.
"Vaughn" <vaughnsimo...@att.fake.net> wrote in message
news:YnYke.248985$cg1.1...@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Offbreed
> I guess it just bugs me when someone has a problem which is discussed at
> length and then the ultimate, verified solution is not posted. This happens
> to me frequently when doing NG searches.
Agreed. Can't Google what's not posted.
whitchur...@gmail.com
> My generator with a Honda GX270 engine suddenly stopped running. My first
> thought was that it was low on oil. I checked it and it seemed to be within
> the acceptable level but filled it to full. Didn't help.
>
> I took out the spark plug and grounded it and the spark looked weak and
> intermittant. I tried switching the ON/OFF switch a few times and jiggled
> the wires but no noticeable improvement. I checked to see if anything was
> grounding out but could find nothing. I tried disconnecting the wires to
> the ON/OFF switch and the low oil sensor but no luck.
>
> There is a small (1 inch square) metal box that is connected to the ON/OFF
> switch and the low oil sensor. Is this the electronic ignition module? I
> looked in my Hayne's Small Engine Repair manual but it didn't show such a
> thing. It also mentioned the existance of low oil sensors but had no info
> for the Honda engines. The owner's manual that came with the engine doesn't
> even suggest checking the oil if the engine won't start!
>
> it? Is there a way to test the ignition module? The ignition coil does not
> appear to be damaged in any way and is not loose or obviously out of
> adjustment but I'm going to try to check it with an ohmmeter.
>
> The engine was running normally and suddenly stopped. I started it again
> and it ran for a few minutes and then suddenly stopped again. It acts like
> it has a loose connection or something but I can't find any.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks.