Woodstove reflector
Bill McConnell
reflect heat into the room. Has anyone had any experiences with these
items? At my local woodstove shop, they run $150 and they don't have a
sample. My search on Deja turned up nothing, maybe because older records
have been temporarily unavailable.
I'm thinking a 4x4 piece of sheetmetal on a fire retardant board might
do the trick.
This hot summer's end has got me thinking of a cold winter :-)
Thanks for the help,
Bill
To email reply, remove the "bad" part
Charles Stoyer
required clearance from the wall behind the stove. So I used 2 angle
brackets together to hang a piece of galvanized sheet metal about 3-4" from
the back of the stove, with a hole for the chimney pipe. I also used black
chimney pipe mounted using stand-offs behind the real chimney pipe to shield
the chimney from the rear wall.
Works well. If the metal is hanging on a few (2-4) supports, I don't see a
need to mount it on fireproof anything as the air will not allow it to get
very warm, certainly not warm enough to reradiate enough heat to cause any
problems.
Charles.
Bill McConnell wrote in message <39C61709...@peak.org>...
Sid
>I recall a discussion on an item that slips behind a woodstove to
>reflect heat into the room. Has anyone had any experiences with these
>items? At my local woodstove shop, they run $150 and they don't have a
>sample. My search on Deja turned up nothing, maybe because older records
>have been temporarily unavailable.
>
>I'm thinking a 4x4 piece of sheetmetal on a fire retardant board might
>do the trick.
Probably so, but what we did behind our woodstove was tack up some
heavy-duty aluminum foil, reflective side out. Before we did this,
the wall behind the stove got quite hot. Now it doesn't. Only
problem with alumninum foil is it rips easily, so if you have cats or
dogs that like to play with that sort of thing it might cause a
problem.
Sid Gudes
sid@newmexico_.com
ANTI-SPAM: remove "_" after "newmexico" when replying
tgb
>
> I recall a discussion on an item that slips behind a woodstove to
> reflect heat into the room. Has anyone had any experiences with these
> items? At my local woodstove shop, they run $150 and they don't have a
> sample. My search on Deja turned up nothing, maybe because older records
> have been temporarily unavailable.
You might want to look at the firebacks sold by Plow & Hearth (located
at <http:www.plowhearth.com>).
Heavy cast iron, they also sell the brackets ("boots") that hold them
up. They may sit too low for a stove as they are advertised for
fireplace use, but they are really nifty looking and I'm sure you could
rig something/have something made to make them look okay. Price is $200
smacks. There are two models, about the same size, one features a nice
oak tree in the casting and the other a sleeping bear with cubs. Kinda
cute.
tgb
Steven Jones
>
> I installed a Sears (ca. 1980) wood stove in my cabin and did not have the
> required clearance from the wall behind the stove. So I used 2 angle
> brackets together to hang a piece of galvanized sheet metal about 3-4" from
> the back of the stove, with a hole for the chimney pipe. I also used black
> chimney pipe mounted using stand-offs behind the real chimney pipe to shield
> the chimney from the rear wall.
>
> Works well. If the metal is hanging on a few (2-4) supports, I don't see a
> need to mount it on fireproof anything as the air will not allow it to get
> very warm, certainly not warm enough to reradiate enough heat to cause any
> problems.
>
> Charles.
>
> Bill McConnell wrote in message <39C61709...@peak.org>...
> >reflect heat into the room. Has anyone had any experiences with these
> >items? At my local woodstove shop, they run $150 and they don't have a
> >sample. My search on Deja turned up nothing, maybe because older records
> >have been temporarily unavailable.
> >
> >do the trick.
Sheet metal with air spaces would be best. I put a wood stove in a
confined space in a travel trailer once using sheets of aluminum (very
reflective). Used two layers, made spacers from aluminum tubing (old
tent poles) and connected first layer to wall, spaced second layer from
first and used screws so that the first layer was not connected to wall
so there would be no direct heat transfer. The stove was only 9" from
the wall, but the wall never even got warm, a bonus is the a convection
current was created by the air spaces between the sheets. Be sure and
leave a few inches of space at the top and bottom so that air can
circulate if you do this.
Steven Jones
deja_...@my-deja.com
combustible wall. A very good reference guide is
"www.nrcan.gc.ca./es/erb/reed/wood/index.html"
and if you want to to known anything else about
wood heating the best sites are "www.hearth.com"
and "www.woodheat.org"
In article <39C61709...@peak.org>,
Bill McConnell <genba...@peak.org> wrote:
> I recall a discussion on an item that slips
behind a woodstove to
> reflect heat into the room. Has anyone had any
experiences with these
> items? At my local woodstove shop, they run
$150 and they don't have a
> sample. My search on Deja turned up nothing,
maybe because older records
> have been temporarily unavailable.
>
> I'm thinking a 4x4 piece of sheetmetal on a
fire retardant board might
> do the trick.
>
> This hot summer's end has got me thinking of a
cold winter :-)
>
> Thanks for the help,
> Bill
>
>
>
>
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
da...@ecn.ab.ca
: Sheet metal with air spaces would be best. I put a wood stove in a
: confined space in a travel trailer once using sheets of aluminum (very
: reflective). Used two layers, made spacers from aluminum tubing (old
: tent poles) and connected first layer to wall, spaced second layer from
: first and used screws so that the first layer was not connected to wall
: so there would be no direct heat transfer. The stove was only 9" from
: the wall, but the wall never even got warm, a bonus is the a convection
: current was created by the air spaces between the sheets. Be sure and
: leave a few inches of space at the top and bottom so that air can
: circulate if you do this.
I used corrugated roofing metal: galvanised steel for the walls,
aluminum for the ceiling.
Spaced them from the walls by slipping pipe over the mounting bolts,
behind the metal.
Wall pieces are mounted an inch above the floor, to allow air to
circulate behind the corrugations; similarly for the ceiling pieces.
However, a thermometer on the wall behind the metal indicates that
I got just as good cooling results by leaning the metal up against the
wall.
Re: reflection: I'd have to say that the re-radiative / reflective
heating contribution of the galvanisied metal is minimal; but I have a
double-walled stove, and much of its heat is carried away by convection
between the outer wall and the stove body proper, so maybe there wasn't
so much radiative loss to the house walls in the first place.
In any case, I'm glad that I don't have to worry about the wall studs
turning to charcoal and spontaneously combusting some day.
Hoping that this was useful,
Daryl Krupa
Member of the Great White North since 1955
Chuck Simmons
>
> I don't think you would gain much. How about a fan placed behind the
> stove? Or maby a space blanket stapled to the wall?
Er, Ah, is not your space blanket stapled to the wall nothing but a
reflector? A space blanket is a thin aluminized mylar film and it works
by reflecting radiated heat.
Chuck
--
... The times have been,
That, when the brains were out,
the man would die. ... Macbeth
Chuck Simmons chr...@webaccess.net
Chuck Simmons
>
> Another school of thought on this subject is to place something heat
> abaorbing behind the stove. I know people who stack bricks around
> their stove so that heat will be released later when the stove dies
> down. Kind of like a funky version of a Russian fireplace (huge mass
> of bricks surrounding an enclosed fireplace).
This is a well known solar heat trick though the way it is done is
different (in some ways). When I used a wood stove, due to clearance,
this would have been seriously difficult. The idea works but it takes a
great mass of stone or brick to make it function well. The reflector
idea has merit because it directs radiant heat into the areas where
people are (if you heat with a wood stove, you tend to enjoy the comfort
of the room with the stove).
Although I hate cold weather, when I lived in Massachusetts, there was a
certain magic to staggering down the stairs, only half awake and
shivering, and resurrecting the carefully banked fire from the night
before. I would have gone for a reflector back then. Preferably
parabolic and aimed at my favorite chair.
hoor...@my-deja.com
stove? Or maby a space blanket stapled to the wall?
hoor...@my-deja.com
abaorbing behind the stove. I know people who stack bricks around
their stove so that heat will be released later when the stove dies
down. Kind of like a funky version of a Russian fireplace (huge mass
of bricks surrounding an enclosed fireplace).
Ecnerwal
>
> I recall a discussion on an item that slips behind a woodstove to
> reflect heat into the room.
> I'm thinking a 4x4 piece of sheetmetal on a fire retardant board might
> do the trick.
Use a nice shiny piece of aluminum or galvanized; you don't really need
anything to mount it to if it's sheetmetal. Foil might want a substrate.
Whatever you use, space it out an inch (2.5cm) from the wall so that it
will also help protect the wall from overheating. If done right (with
rolled/folded edges so it won't cut people) the price quoted might not
be so unreasonable, but that's hard to tell without seeing the thing,
and you certainly can get the effect for a lot less money.
Nick Pine
>...Use a nice shiny piece of aluminum or galvanized; you don't really need
>anything to mount it to if it's sheetmetal. Foil might want a substrate.
>Whatever you use, space it out an inch (2.5cm) from the wall so that it
>will also help protect the wall from overheating...
I just stapled some builder's foil to the plaster wall
6" behind the woodstove. It stays very cool...
Nick