Dark
U wouldn't want galvanized inside a house ... the zinc can bake off.
I'd try "barbeque" or "engine enamel" type paints ... they usually say on
the can how hot they can handle. If really galvanized you'll need to deal
with that to get the paint to stick. I'd really vent it well first time or two
the 'extras' in the paint cook off.
Dark
"Darkdakota" <darkd...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010801070204...@ng-fi1.aol.com...
Try engine part from an auto parts store. It comes in a variety of
colors. An engine in service gots much hotter than the outside wall of
triple wall stovepipe above the roof line.
After rebuilding a Dodge engine, I painted it Ford blue, hoping that
would make it last as long as a Ford. It didn't help....
[ OK, folks, that last line was a blatant troll ;o) ]
--
Greg "" Wolf
The computer biz: money for nuthin' and the chicks for free.
It paints fine, new pipe has a coating that has to come off, this
will weather off in time, or you can clean it off with vinegar
which also etches the metal a little. I used barbecue paint with
good luck.
SAJ
Dark
>
> Thanks for the info- I have a gallon of burgandy oil based enamel I'm going
> to try. It's a great color and I think it will look good with the historic
> rose color I'm going to paint the house.
Get some red paint and white paint; make it look like bricks ;o)
About 20 years ago I put in a Franklin stove and was left with about
four feet of shiny metal triple-wall pipe sticking out of my roof. I
went down to Sears where I had bought the pipe and stove and told the
paint guy I wanted to paint it black. He said that he had a primer made
for just that and sold me a quart. It was like nothing I had ever seen
before. It was almost clear with a pale blue or green tint and seemed
like very thinned out rubber cement. It went on and thinned out easily
and dried to a film that was so stretchy that I could peel it off with
my fingernail if I wanted to. Anyway, I painted over it with a molten
black latex paint and it held up great. Never a crack or peel for
years. I think that is how it works by softening the stresses on the
paint from the expanding and contracting metal below.
I just looked at my paint collection but couldn't find it anymore, but
it might be worth a look at Sears even after all these years.
-- John
Butyl rubber primer should be widely available (I haven't looked
lately). It is an excellent primer on every surface where I've used it,
and where latex coatings (including paint) are the next layer. It is
especially fine for applications where there is a lot of expansion and
contraction.
--
Greg Wolf
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