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New Water Heater equals Air in Lines?
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rdoc
Mar 5, 2013, 9:19:37 PM3/5/13
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Some Background:
So... a little while back I replaced the electric water heater. We get a lot
of minerals and sulfur gas in our well and it was finally too much for the
bottom element. It was a straight-forward job of unscrewing the hot and cold
lines from the insulated nipples, slide the old one out, new nipples, crank
down the flex lines and reattach the 220. Only real difference this one has
is the digital temp deal on the side... set at 130F. I know some won't like
that temperature but there are no children or elderly but I have immune
issues left over from Lyme disease and it's not worth not having your water
at biologically safe temperatures, especially with a well.
The Problem:
Ever since the installation I have had air in the hot lines. This is present
in both the feeds to the front and back of the house and affects all the
spigots. It never gets worse but it never gets better... any time you run a
faucet it is fine until the hot water makes it to the tap and then it
gurgles and spits every few minutes.
I can't see any way for air to get in the lines at the heater level (they
split right above the unit) but that's where it has to come from or it would
not affect both ends of the house. I wondered if the holding tank was water
logging any faster than usual, but it is not (old fashioned but not old
galvanized tank style). We get the sulfur gas like many wells out here that
turns everything red and brown but one would not think this would occur from
that on the exact day the new heater is installed. It certainly is annoying.
What could be causing this?
Thanks.
posted to home.repair and rural in hopes of hitting pertinent experience.
So... a little while back I replaced the electric water heater. We get a lot
of minerals and sulfur gas in our well and it was finally too much for the
bottom element. It was a straight-forward job of unscrewing the hot and cold
lines from the insulated nipples, slide the old one out, new nipples, crank
down the flex lines and reattach the 220. Only real difference this one has
is the digital temp deal on the side... set at 130F. I know some won't like
that temperature but there are no children or elderly but I have immune
issues left over from Lyme disease and it's not worth not having your water
at biologically safe temperatures, especially with a well.
The Problem:
Ever since the installation I have had air in the hot lines. This is present
in both the feeds to the front and back of the house and affects all the
spigots. It never gets worse but it never gets better... any time you run a
faucet it is fine until the hot water makes it to the tap and then it
gurgles and spits every few minutes.
I can't see any way for air to get in the lines at the heater level (they
split right above the unit) but that's where it has to come from or it would
not affect both ends of the house. I wondered if the holding tank was water
logging any faster than usual, but it is not (old fashioned but not old
galvanized tank style). We get the sulfur gas like many wells out here that
turns everything red and brown but one would not think this would occur from
that on the exact day the new heater is installed. It certainly is annoying.
What could be causing this?
Thanks.
posted to home.repair and rural in hopes of hitting pertinent experience.
rdoc
Mar 5, 2013, 9:37:53 PM3/5/13
to
"rdoc" <be...@this.net> wrote in message
news:AImdnVJVqqchOqvM...@giganews.com...
Paul Drahn
Mar 6, 2013, 12:02:16 AM3/6/13
to
escape? Just pop it a bit until just water comes out.
Paul
micky
Mar 6, 2013, 5:37:48 AM3/6/13
to
On Tue, 5 Mar 2013 21:19:37 -0500, "rdoc" <be...@this.net> wrote:
>
>
>I can't see any way for air to get in the lines at the heater level (they
>split right above the unit) but that's where it has to come from or it would
>not affect both ends of the house. I wondered if the holding tank was water
>logging any faster than usual, but it is not (old fashioned but not old
>galvanized tank style). We get the sulfur gas like many wells out here that
>turns everything red and brown but one would not think this would occur from
>that on the exact day the new heater is installed. It certainly is annoying.
>
>What could be causing this?
fIs it possible the sulfur is reacting with something in the HWH and
>
>
>I can't see any way for air to get in the lines at the heater level (they
>split right above the unit) but that's where it has to come from or it would
>not affect both ends of the house. I wondered if the holding tank was water
>logging any faster than usual, but it is not (old fashioned but not old
>galvanized tank style). We get the sulfur gas like many wells out here that
>turns everything red and brown but one would not think this would occur from
>that on the exact day the new heater is installed. It certainly is annoying.
>
>What could be causing this?
making gas. Some material in the new HWH that wasn't in the old one?
As tp air entering, if there were a leak, it seems a lot more likely
water would be exiting. (Of course I have city water which is under
pressure. I don't know how well water systerms are set up.)
Especially when you're not usig the hot water, but if there is a
chance air is getting sucked in, maybe you can at the joints you
fiddled with for the installation, wrap a soaking wet towl around the
joint and maybe that will keep air from getting in, for the length of
a test. This is just a guess. I've had spitting but only after
water was drained from pipes.
NapalmHeart
Mar 6, 2013, 6:09:29 AM3/6/13
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"micky" <NONONO...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:0t6ej8p2v5k649j3i...@4ax.com...
tra...@optonline.net
Mar 6, 2013, 9:08:51 AM3/6/13
to
On Mar 6, 6:09 am, "NapalmHeart" <kol...@freedomnet.org> wrote:
> "micky" <NONONOmis...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
> You might want to try pulling the anode rod.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Unstated is how long this has been going on. Has water
been drawn from all the hot water faucets to get air out
of all the lines? If all else has been ruled out, then I would
agree it might be the anode rod reacting and generating gas
and that would be worth ruling out. Assuming of course that
the rod can be pulled. If it's a basement and no clearance,
then that's a problem.
> "micky" <NONONOmis...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
>
> - Show quoted text -
Unstated is how long this has been going on. Has water
been drawn from all the hot water faucets to get air out
of all the lines? If all else has been ruled out, then I would
agree it might be the anode rod reacting and generating gas
and that would be worth ruling out. Assuming of course that
the rod can be pulled. If it's a basement and no clearance,
then that's a problem.
rdoc
Mar 6, 2013, 9:15:03 AM3/6/13
to
"Paul Drahn" <pdr...@webformixair.com> wrote in message
news:kh6ii5$41u$1...@dont-email.me...
read somewhere not to test them so as to not make them pop prematurely.
Maybe I'll turn it off and run it down to lukewarm and open it to see but
one would think that after a month or so and all the air that's hit the
spigots that it would be purged. Of course, after this long I'm open to
anything, just about.
rdoc
Mar 6, 2013, 9:15:04 AM3/6/13
to
"micky" <NONONO...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:0t6ej8p2v5k649j3i...@4ax.com...
makeup of the tank.
rdoc
Mar 6, 2013, 9:15:04 AM3/6/13
to
"NapalmHeart" <kol...@freedomnet.org> wrote in message
news:kh782p$u1l$1...@dont-email.me...
to have that there and in good shape. These minerals can wreak havoc on
elements. It doesn't *appear* that anything is being hurt by this
situation... pulling the anode might guarantee that something gets hurt,
wouldn't it?
tra...@optonline.net
Mar 6, 2013, 9:59:33 AM3/6/13
to
On Mar 6, 9:15 am, "rdoc" <b...@this.net> wrote:
> "NapalmHeart" <kol...@freedomnet.org> wrote in message
>
> news:kh782p$u1l$1...@dont-email.me...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > "micky" <NONONOmis...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
> "NapalmHeart" <kol...@freedomnet.org> wrote in message
>
> news:kh782p$u1l$1...@dont-email.me...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >news:0t6ej8p2v5k649j3i...@4ax.com...
>
> - Show quoted text -
He's suggesting pulling the anode to see if it's the source
> - Show quoted text -
of the problem. Since you have sulfur and a lot of minerals,
it's possible that the water is reacting with the anode, causing gas.
If it is the anode, there are ones made of other
metals, Al?, that don't react as much. They are typically used to
solve problems of the water smelling bad.
How long has this been going on now? At all hot water
faucets?
rdoc
Mar 6, 2013, 10:58:06 AM3/6/13
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<tra...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:f9dbf46f-d2cb-4aa8...@c6g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
house and I've waited it out for a couple of months hoping to see some other
reason present itself. It only starts after the hot water replaces the cold
at the taps.
This is a Whirlpool ES50R123-45D and it is 48 inches high and up on three
bricks. It would be very close as for clearing at the floorboards above. It
might depend on whether it can be navigated through some pipes and such
above. I had to replace one of these a long time ago at an in-law's house
but I really don't remember much about it, now. Seems to me that theirs
being rotted off was no big deal getting out but angling the new one in gave
us trouble... I even want to say we cut an inch or two off but I might be
mixing memories with something else as we always are into something around
this farm. Come to think of it... they have low ceilings down their place.
How long is a the anode and can I buy one at the big box hardware or do I
special order one? My water goes through spells where it smells worse than
other spells, but now that you mention it these last couple of months have
been really bad.
Thanks again.
willshak
Mar 6, 2013, 1:22:39 PM3/6/13
to
or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/c54adyq
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @
chaniarts
Mar 6, 2013, 2:38:34 PM3/6/13
to
tra...@optonline.net
Mar 7, 2013, 8:31:18 AM3/7/13
to
> or:http://preview.tinyurl.com/c54adyq
>
> --
> Bill
> In Hamptonburgh, NY
> In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
> To email, remove the double zeros after @- Hide quoted text -
>
> --
> Bill
> In Hamptonburgh, NY
> In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
>
> - Show quoted text -
That whole thing is based on the premise that there is
> - Show quoted text -
air trapped in the pipes somewhere. That seems unlikely
to me, since he says it's been going on for months. At
some point, if air is coming out, it would exhaust itself
and several months seems like a very long time. Also,
since it's coming out of ALL the hot water taps, it would
have to be trapped in a common part of the pipes, close
to the WH. That it's coming from either the tank or the
pipes close to the tank are further verified by the fact
that he says the air only shows up when hot water
arrives at the faucet. All that suggests to me that it is
in fact being generated inside the tank.
rdoc
Mar 7, 2013, 9:11:17 AM3/7/13
to
made of Aluminum, Zinc and Tin. It is 42" and will likely clear. I looked at
the tank and the 'anode' sticker is between several holes/plugs. A diagram I
found doesn't show those other holes so I pulled the one that looks closest
to that diagram and there is foam under it. Can/Should I just cut that foam
away or is this a sign that I'm looking at the wrong place. The previous
tank had a hex that sat slightly higher than the rest of the tank, so this
may be something I need to research.
Harry K
Mar 7, 2013, 12:23:14 PM3/7/13
to
On Mar 7, 5:31 am, "trad...@optonline.net" <trad...@optonline.net>
wrote:
Yep. Can't be anywhere else and the possibility of air being 'sucked
into a joint' is zero.
Harry K
wrote:
into a joint' is zero.
Harry K
NapalmHeart
Mar 7, 2013, 12:28:34 PM3/7/13
to
news:X8qdnQAKwcyQPaXM...@giganews.com...
It can be covered by foam, but a little more research won't hurt.
Here are a couple of links that look at this from a different perspective.
http://www.cleanwaterstore.com/technical/water-heater-odors.php
http://www.mrwa.com/watersmellrotteneggs.htm
Here are a couple of links that look at this from a different perspective.
http://www.cleanwaterstore.com/technical/water-heater-odors.php
http://www.mrwa.com/watersmellrotteneggs.htm
tra...@optonline.net
Mar 7, 2013, 12:38:21 PM3/7/13
to
On Mar 7, 12:28 pm, "NapalmHeart" <kol...@freedomnet.org> wrote:
> "rdoc" <b...@this.net> wrote in message
>
> news:X8qdnQAKwcyQPaXM...@giganews.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > <trad...@optonline.net> wrote in message
On my State WH it's also a hex head, think it was 1 1/8"?, but
it was obviously the only fitting there. I'd make sure the new
one will clear. Otherwise there are ones available that are
linked together that will go in for sure. I think waterheaterrescue
is one place that sells them. Also, you might want to check
around to make sure you're getting a decent price.
>
> It can be covered by foam, but a little more research won't hurt.
>
> Here are a couple of links that look at this from a different perspective.
>
> http://www.cleanwaterstore.com/technical/water-heater-odors.php
>
> http://www.mrwa.com/watersmellrotteneggs.htm- Hide quoted text -
> "rdoc" <b...@this.net> wrote in message
>
> news:X8qdnQAKwcyQPaXM...@giganews.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > <trad...@optonline.net> wrote in message
it was obviously the only fitting there. I'd make sure the new
one will clear. Otherwise there are ones available that are
linked together that will go in for sure. I think waterheaterrescue
is one place that sells them. Also, you might want to check
around to make sure you're getting a decent price.
>
> It can be covered by foam, but a little more research won't hurt.
>
> Here are a couple of links that look at this from a different perspective.
>
> http://www.cleanwaterstore.com/technical/water-heater-odors.php
>
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