this is precious, simply precious...
Yeah. I have seen that several times over the years and there is so
much truth to it. I see that the annual 'what to use to bag leaves'
threads have started over alt.home.repair. Even after they have been
told the simple way is to mow/mulch em, they still go on about buying
fancy equipment to vacuum them up.
Harry K
> Jim wrote:
> > symplastless wrote:
> >
> > > To winterize or not to winterize lawn
> <snip>
> >
> > this is precious, simply precious
>
> Yeah. I have seen that several times over the years and there is so
> much truth to it. I see that the annual 'what to use to bag leaves'
> threads have started over alt.home.repair. Even after they have been
> told the simple way is to mow/mulch em, they still go on about buying
> fancy equipment to vacuum them up.
>
> Harry K
I've been trying to move my customers towards organic methods.
triple shred, putting leaves through the shredder three times
produces some dense mulch. with the new and deeper understanding
acquired recently for how many of the selective herbicides and
insecticides as well as improper or incorrect applications of
nitrogen actually have a great negative impact on the environment
as well as the ground water, I've decided it is now time to make
some changes concerning how the suburbanites acquire and obtain
the lawns they desire.
in short, if the chemical bonds with the soil at the molecular
particle level then that chemical is removed from my list of
what is acceptable to use. the list is getting short.
Jim
do_...@do.com said:
Maybe wait until spring until they're only a six inch layer? ;)
--
Eggs
Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery?
Feel blessed. Mow, rake, and compost.
--
FB - FFF
Billy
Get up, stand up, stand up for yor rights.
Get up, stand up, Don't give up the fight.
- Bob Marley
I'm glad you understand all this stuff. spread the word so others can also
begin the slow and long process of gaining an understanding.
Good Job Grizzly!
peace be with you,
Jim
> [flup set to a.h.l.g.]
canceled with authoritative override.
authoritative override® TM product of JimWare...
> do_...@do.com said:
> > Harry K wrote:
Blow 'em up into a big pile. Jump and play in the pile, recalling one's youth. Then
set 'em afire and enjoy the warmth and the lovely odor. Burning leaves are one of my
favorite smells, a warm reminder that fall is here at last.
John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
Alcohol, Tobacco & Firearms should be a convenience store, not a government agency.
Raise the mower deck and mow away. Would take several passes but when
done the leaves will have disappeared...or rather what shows will
disapear in a few days. I haven't done 3ft but have done 1 ft.
Methinks you exagerate a bit with the 3 foot layer.
You want to waste your time and valuable soil amendment by raking,
bagging and thowing away, be my guest but don't knock a sensible
method of dealing with leaves.
Harry K
Harry K
Hold on. Thong swimsuits aren't stupid. They might be
stupid on you, but they're not stupid here:
http://www.microkitten.com/
Lawdy Miss Clawdy...
I wait for the North wind to blow them into my neighbor's yard.
--
Those who can make you believe absurdities
can make you commit atrocities -- Voltaire
Assuming you're unable to mow them into oblivion*, you could try a rake.
It's a relatively new invention, so, like when CD players first became
available, you might have to get on a waiting list. No matter what anyone
tells you, you can rake & bag as fast as or faster than with a leaf blower.
* Yes, there are situations where you can't use the mower to grind up the
leaves.
What difference does it make if any particular chemical bonds with the
soil at the molecular level as opposed to just going straight on to
the ground water or into lakes, streams via runoff? I'm not even
aware that chemicals are made to molecularly bond to soil to begin
with.
The ions from chemical fertilizer salts, can be slowed down considerably
as they pass through your soil, by clay. Good garden soil is about 20% -
30% clay. Problem is that these fertilizer salts can harm/kill the micro
flora and fauna in soil. A healthy, diversified population of
micro-organisms will give you a healthy lawn if you feed them with
compost. There is more to it but that is the gist.
> do_see wrote:
> > Harry K wrote:
> >> Jim wrote:
> >>> symplastless wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> To winterize or not to winterize lawn
> >> <snip>
> >>> this is precious, simply precious
> >>
> >>
> >> Yeah. I have seen that several times over the years and there is so
> >> much truth to it. I see that the annual 'what to use to bag leaves'
> >> threads have started over alt.home.repair. Even after they have been
> >> told the simple way is to mow/mulch em, they still go on about buying
> >> fancy equipment to vacuum them up.
> >>
> >> Harry K
> >>
> > What do you do when there is a 3 foot layer of leaves?
>
> Assuming you're unable to mow them into oblivion*, you could try a rake.
> It's a relatively new invention,
yea and I'll be glad when they invent a better
muffler for that loud thing called a rake. <g>
> so, like when CD players first became
> available, you might have to get on a waiting list. No matter what anyone
> tells you, you can rake & bag as fast as or faster than with a leaf blower.
>
> * Yes, there are situations where you can't use the mower to grind up the
> leaves.
I laughed until it hurt watching a city boy take a
bagging mower into a flower bed.
> > Jim-
>
> What difference does it make if any particular chemical bonds with the
> soil at the molecular level as opposed to just going straight on to
> the ground water or into lakes, streams via runoff? I'm not even
> aware that chemicals are made to molecularly bond to soil to begin
> with.
it's not that the chemicals were made to bond with the
soil, it is that they do. as for run off, there are
proper precautions one can take to minimize run off
the simplest of which is to adhere to the proper
applications rates. when chemicals such as herbicides
are applied within the correct rate the vast majority
of the chemical is taken up by the target plants and
never achieves run off status.
most people have no idea of how to calibrate an application
device so as to know their exact output. they have not sought
the training and therefore have no understanding for distance,
time, pressure or volume.
it was a good decision when the full strength chemicals were
placed out of reach of joe home owner...
organic is the total solution to the problem...
http://www.milkyspore.com/
> trader4 wrote:
organic!
In a word, yes.
My point should have been that the binding of chem ferts (salts) in the
soil is inadvertent and wasn't planed by Monsanto, Dow, et al.. If you
have diversified micro-organisms growing in your soil, they take up
nitrogen compounds (NH4+ and NO3-) during their life cycles and release
it to plants when they die. A little fish emulsion or manure from time
to time should be sufficient. Otherwise the breakdown of carbohydrates
from from lawn clippings or compost will keep the micro-organisms happy
and fed.
I looked at the first item under herbicides, BurnOut (concentrate), a
total vegetation killer (allegedly),
Listed as Active Ingredients in the MSDS are Clove Oil (12$) and sodium
lauryl sulfate (8$). According to the USDA, " SLS is a high production
volume chemical (i.e., annual production and/or importation volumes above
1 million pounds in the United States)." and "SLS is manufactured by a
chemical process."
http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/NationalList/TAPReviews/SodiumLaurylSulfate2-10-06.pdf
Listed as Inert Ingredients are: Vinegar [Acetoc Acid],Citric Acid,
Mineral oil, Lecithin, Water
BurnOut concentrate has a Flash Point of 112F, only 2 degrees higher than
that of kerosene. Its Hazardous Decomposition Products are Acid Vapors,
CO, and CO2.
Also from the MSDS:
"Health Hazards: Contains acetic acid and is flammable and extremely
corrosive. Contact with this product will result in severe eye irritation
and possible permanent damage. Contact with this product will cause severe
skin irritation and/or chemical burns. Breathing vapors will cause
significant respiratory irritation, and pulmonary edema if prolonged.
Ingestion of this product could cause burns and destroy tissue in the
mouth, throat, and digestive tract."
and
"Respiratory Protection: Wear a properly fitted half-face or full-face air
purifying respirator which is approved for pesticides (NIOSH/MSHA IN U.S.)
AND acid gas type cartridges."
http://www.milkyspore.com/Labels and MSDS/BurnOut II Concentrate/msds
Burnout II Concentrate.pdf
> Neon John wrote:
> > do_see wrote:
> >
[....]
> >>>
> >> What do you do when there is a 3 foot layer of leaves?
> >
> > Blow 'em up into a big pile. Jump and play in the pile, recalling one's youth. Then
> > set 'em afire and enjoy the warmth and the lovely odor. Burning leaves are one of my
> > favorite smells, a warm reminder that fall is here at last.
> >
> >
> Can't stand the smell of burning leaves.
> Tree hugger don'tcha know.
a good hot quick burning fire is not the problem. it's the
attempt at burning wet leaves and the one creating a smoldering
smoke screen blanking the neighborhood who creates the smell of
an undesirable mess.
Argue what? That there are situations where a mower won't handle the leaves?
I'm listening.
Good piece! Seriously, I don't want waist high grass and weeds right up
close to the house, so we just mow the weeds couple times a month three
inches high with a mulching mower. Eventually, the area becomes a lawn,
as the goldenrod doesn't like being cut short, only plants that prefer
being three inches high survive.
--
Remove the TOS star ship captain to reply privately.
Right. Some mowers have limits as to what they'll mulch. And then, there's
the infamous confluence of factors that's sometimes unavoidable, like when
my neighbor's sycamore decides to dump all its leaves at 3:00 PM, followed
by rain at 4:00 PM, lasting for the next 3 days, with heavy winds that shlep
even more leaves from the other neighbors' yards. When every square yard
contains 4 bushels of wet leaves, my mower says "Yeah...right".
BR said:
[...]
> Seriously, I don't want waist high grass and weeds right up
> close to the house, so we just mow the weeds couple times a month three
> inches high with a mulching mower. Eventually, the area becomes a lawn,
> as the goldenrod doesn't like being cut short, only plants that prefer
> being three inches high survive.
And, we all know there are no weeds with a growth habit of under three
inches. *rolls eyes*
Eventually, from /only/ mowing "a couple times a month" the area doesn't
"become a lawn", it becomes a patch of three inch high weeds.
--
Eggs
Do Lipton employees take coffee breaks?
Yep. Wet leaves won't mow-mulch for crap. I even have a birch tree
that I swear drops green leaves. They don't chop up well either but I
do it.
Harry K
several of the erosion control meadow strips on the Farm have
evolved over the years into rather nice areas of tall fescue
by only mowing them with a gyro [bushhog] mower set to about
6 or 8 inches cutting height. they get mowed 6 or 8 times a
year. the fescue is allowed each year to grow tall and
produce it's own seed for over or reseeding. the soybean fields
contained within the erosion control meadow strips produce large
amounts of organic nitrogen which finds it's way into the grass
and the annual lime applications of the bean land bleeds over
onto these fescue strips. people have seen these and remarked
how they wish their lawn looked that good. most lawns in
suburbanite land are diminished by the over application of cheap
chemical fertilizers. the people who have figured out composting
are way ahead in the sporting event known as gardening and their
carry over knowledge resulting from their understanding of how
there is life in that compost pile enables them to have the better
healthier lawns through allowing all living things to work in
harmony with one another.
Hi, I'm new to the group, but thought I'd jump in and give my 2 cents
worth. I'm right there with you, Grizzly. In fact, I had to laugh at
my brother-in-law who just moved out here. He thought it was
important to mow and rake all 15 acres of my place. I tried to
explain the bush hog twice a year concept, but he was proud of the
nice looking "lawn." I tried to explain the difference between a
"lawn" and a "pasture," but he didn't get that either. I told him he
was probably the laughing stock of the community. Everyone was
saying, "look at that crazy California city boy out there push mowing
the pasture, raking, and wheelbarrowing it down to the burn pit!"
Now, I drew the line when he tried to make the teenage boys help him
rake in the 100+ degree, 60% humidity Arkansas summer heat wave. If
he wanted to suffer from heat stroke, more power to him. But, the
kids weren't going to rake that up. It could stay where it was.
I always enjoy a good city boy moved to the country
story. thank you for this one.
<g>
> Ann said:
> > Eggs Zachtly expounded:
> >
> >>Yet, you /still/ didn't restore the missing group. Your excuse this time
> >>would be that it was too early?
> >
> > Do what you want. I'm not the only one who restored the followups you
> > set.
>
> Sure you are.
what about those in your kill file?
how is it you know what they do?
> Only four people have replied to this sub-thread: You, BR,
> Steveo, and myself. BR and Steveo both left the flup as I set it. I have no
> hard-kills set for this group. Who else does do you see that restored the
> groups? Noone. So, it seems that only *you* have a problem with it.
>
> > I'll just do as I please from now on, also.
>
> That's as it should be. =)
> [irrelevant groups snipped]
> [flup set to a.h.l.g.]
>
> Jim said:
> > Eggs Zachtly wrote:
> >> Ann said:
> >>> Eggs Zachtly expounded:
> >>>
> >>>>Yet, you /still/ didn't restore the missing group. Your excuse this time
> >>>>would be that it was too early?
> >>>
> >>> Do what you want. I'm not the only one who restored the followups you
> >>> set.
> >>
> >> Sure you are.
> >
> > what about those in your kill file?
> > how is it you know what they do?
>
> Did you even read the paragraph, that you quoted, below?
yep.
> Pay particular
> attention to the sentence, "I have no hard-kills set for this group.". Any
> downscored posters are only marked as read. Simply viewing "All Posts"
> reveals everyone that posted to the thread.
noting your additional explanation contained here.
>
> >
> >> Only four people have replied to this sub-thread: You, BR,
> >> Steveo, and myself. BR and Steveo both left the flup as I set it. I have no
> >> hard-kills set for this group.
> >> Who else does do you see that restored the
so what happened right here? btw - I was being
tolerant. now I'm asking.
> >> groups? Noone. So, it seems that only *you* have a problem with it.
> >>
> >>> I'll just do as I please from now on, also.
> >>
> >> That's as it should be. =)
>
> I've noticed that you re-added misc.rural,
that was rather observant of you. can you tell me
who originally cross posted this thread across the
3 groups?
> Jim. I'm guessing you did it to
> try and bother me, somehow.
why would I want to bother you Eggs?
> You failed, miserably. All that you've proved
> is that you failed to read (comprehend?)
I read it. the proper an accepted term is and always has
been 'killfile' and would have by itself made unnecessary
the additional explanation you included in 'this' reply of
yours..
Eggs, you know how top posting sort of bothers you enough
to the point of where you'll actually in your reply state
"[top-posting fixed]" at the beginning of your replies to
a top poster? doing that habitually as you do projects an
image of you as being one who attempts to impose their will
upon others. is it your will or is it what's been established
as usenet acceptable you desire to have others conform to?
> the post to which you replied. ;)
>
> HTH, HAND
had a marvelous day, thank you.
rate the relevance of this conversational exchange for
subject topic matter pertinency towards anyone of the
news groups it has been posted in.
> --
>
> Eggs
>
> The only 15 letter word that can be spelled without repeating a letter is
> 'uncopyrightable'!
I'm not sure I understand your question, sorry. Ann stated that she wasn't
the only one that had restored the crossposted groups, when clearly she
was.
>
>>>> groups? Noone. So, it seems that only *you* have a problem with it.
>>>>
>>>>> I'll just do as I please from now on, also.
>>>>
>>>> That's as it should be. =)
>>
>> I've noticed that you re-added misc.rural,
>
> that was rather observant of you.
Thanks. Once in a great while, I have my moments. =)
> can you tell me who originally cross posted this thread across the
> 3 groups?
That would be you. =)
>
>> Jim. I'm guessing you did it to
>> try and bother me, somehow.
>
> why would I want to bother you Eggs?
That's one thing that I couldn't figure out.
>
>> You failed, miserably. All that you've proved
>> is that you failed to read (comprehend?)
>
> I read it. the proper an accepted term is and always has
> been 'killfile' and would have by itself made unnecessary
> the additional explanation you included in 'this' reply of
> yours..
>
> Eggs, you know how top posting sort of bothers you enough
> to the point of where you'll actually in your reply state
> "[top-posting fixed]" at the beginning of your replies to
> a top poster? doing that habitually as you do projects an
> image of you as being one who attempts to impose their will
> upon others. is it your will or is it what's been established
> as usenet acceptable you desire to have others conform to?
It's been the accepted practice since the inception of The USENET (and
before, actually). It has nothing at all to do with 'imposing my will upon
others'. There are crap newsreaders out there [1], that place the cursor at
the first line of the reply, before the attribution line, which forces the
user to top post (which, they wrongly do, until it is pointed out to them
that /very/ few groups accept top-posting as their preferred method of
replying), or manually place their reply inline (proper), or at the end of
the quoted material (just as bad as top-posting), or they completely bork
quotes, line length, etc.
Then there's G2, which is desperately trying to convince it's users that
Google Groups is somehow, something that Google came up with. It's simply
an interface to The USENET, an archive, and nothing more. It also borks
quotes something awful, and it's getting worse with each release. It was
good that Google took over the DejaNews archive, but even the archive is
borked now. =(
>
>> the post to which you replied. ;)
>>
>> HTH, HAND
>
> had a marvelous day, thank you.
Great to hear it. Hope the weather in your area has turned for the better.
It sure has here. Had to get the Carharts out this morning, HEH. =D
>
> rate the relevance of this conversational exchange for
> subject topic matter pertinency towards anyone of the
> news groups it has been posted in.
I'll leave the groups, and not set a flup. Perhaps a user or two will
pickup on proper posting habits. A simple search on GNKSA and/or netiquette
would do those that don't understand, a world of good. =)
[1] Such as Forte Agent (and Free Agent), OE, AOL, Opera, XanaNews, G2,
etc, none of which has past the GNKSA, and likely never will.
--
Eggs
-A closed mouth gathers no feet.
>I'm not sure I understand your question, sorry. Ann stated that she wasn't
>the only one that had restored the crossposted groups, when clearly she
>was.
No, actually, I was mistaken, it wasn't in this thread that someone
restored the crossposts you snipped, it was another. Doesn't matter.
You want to be in charge, but so do others. Time to get over it.....
--
Ann, gardening in Zone 6a
South of Boston, Massachusetts
e-mail address is not checked
******************************
> Eggs Zachtly <r...@d.thereplyto.header> expounded:
>
>>I'm not sure I understand your question, sorry. Ann stated that she wasn't
>>the only one that had restored the crossposted groups, when clearly she
>>was.
>
> No, actually, I was mistaken, it wasn't in this thread that someone
> restored the crossposts you snipped, it was another. Doesn't matter.
> You want to be in charge, but so do others. Time to get over it.....
Deal! =)
Happy gardening, Ann. =)
--
Eggs
-A balanced diet is a cookie in each hand.
>>What do you do when there is a 3 foot layer of leaves?
>
> Blow 'em up into a big pile. Jump and play in the pile, recalling one's
> youth. Then
> set 'em afire and enjoy the warmth and the lovely odor. Burning leaves are
> one of my
> favorite smells, a warm reminder that fall is here at last.
Then wait for the police or state EPA to show up.
Burning leaves is illegal in lots of places these days.
Bob
Even when there's a drought in many places? :-)
I have never figured out how one would evenly distribute homegrown compost over
a lawn. Any suggestions?
Bob
Not a serious suggestion at all: Grind to aspirin-size bits in your food
processor. A year later, when that's done, spread it on the lawn.
> Jim wrote:
> > the people who have figured out composting
> > are way ahead in the sporting event known as gardening and their
> > carry over knowledge resulting from their understanding of how
> > there is life in that compost pile enables them to have the better
> > healthier lawns through allowing all living things to work in
> > harmony with one another.
>
> I have never figured out how one would evenly distribute homegrown compost over
> a lawn. Any suggestions?
>
> Bob
Bob, it is the knowledge of what is going on in a home
grown compost pile and that knowledge of how life in the
compose pile allows lawn lovers to keep life in the soil
underneath their lawn so as to improve the natural health
of the lawn I was speaking of.
traditionally speaking most home compost piles get moved
onto the garden in the fall and then cut into the soil.
sometimes some of the compost ends up in flower beds or
flower pots.
the lawn naturally produces the compose best suited for
its needs. they are called grass clippings. mulching
mowers do a one or two fold better job of returning these
clippings to the lawn than do side discharge mowers. the
concept itself works best when the lawn is cut on a frequent
and regular schedule meaning we are reducing the amount of
grass being removed by the mowing process. infrequent mowing
will generate more clippings than the lawn can handle and
produce the result of thatch build up which in and of itself
procreates a host of other devastating problems for the lawn.
people who are not willing to mow twice a week instead of once
a week will usually receive no great benefit from a mulching
mower.
as for attempting to apply traditional homemade compost to
a lawn? my vision of that process appears to be a costly
one as a result of the drying, grinding and more grinding
in order to obtain a dry granular product with consistencies
favorable for broadcast spreaders.
best,
Jim
Well Bob, you take a shovel and sling it all over an area. Then, you take
a leaf rake and rake it in. Or, you could dump a pile in an area and use a
bow rake to rake it out, then turn it over, tines up, to work it in.
That could be a LOT of work for a large yard. I might just wait for a better
idea.
Bob
You scoop up a shovelfull and fling it.
With a bit of practice you can get pretty controlled flings- my husband is
very good at it. He hand topdressed 20,000 sq ft of lawn this way just last
month.
--
Toni
Hills of Kentucky
USDA Zone 6b
http://www.cearbhaill.com
Wuss... Okay, Google> John Deere> Loader> Manure Spreader
Yep. It doesn't take a lot of practice to spread it pretty evenly and
we are not talking "exactly even" here anyhow, just a generaly even
cover with no piles or obvious bare spots gets it.
A good scoopshovel or big flat shovel is the best tool.
Harry K