Q:Used Vigilant Woodstove-No Manual or Stickers-HELP!!
Heather D. Esposito
My husband and I recently purchased a used Vigilant Woodstove (Vermont
Castings) circa 1977. It has an oval flue connector, which we have no idea
what size pipe to buy! We have no manuals, no stickers on the back of the
stove for clearances and what not... We are just lost!
We have a built in porch in the front of the house that the stove is going
on... it will ultimately heat our 1200 sq ft. home, more as a backup than
anything. It's is going straight up through the roof .... about 8 feet to
the ceiling and 3 feet thru the roof and then whatever we need above for the
proper draft. The stove has a heat shield in the back of the stove that
wraps around just the corners of the stove. It seems to be in very good
shape, we just have no clue what we are doing!!! Any help would be greatly
appreciated. Thank you so much.
Heather Esposito & Fred Henry
John Galbreath Jr.
an installation manual. As for the connector. Take a string and wrap
around the flue collar. Now measure the string. Now 3.14 (Pi) x radius
(1/2 diameter) times 2 (square). Examples follow:
A six inch pipe measures 18.8 inches
A seven inch pipe measures 22 inches
An eight inch pipe measures 25.1 inches
--
John Galbreath Jr.
http://www.FireLogs.com
http://www.ABSCOFireplace.com
mailto:Jo...@FireLogs.com
Birmingham, Alabama
888.321.Logs
Ecnerwal
stringent") - check (town office &/or fire department) if you have a
local code or a license to get, and also see what your insurance company
wants; sift through all of them, and satisfy the most restrictive of
them for each issue.
Around here (supposedly from a general code, but who knows...from memory
anyway) 36" where there isn't a heat sheild, 18" where there is - "line
of sight", so the back can be 18", but anything off the side which can
"see" the unsheilded side of the stove should be 36" to combustible
construction. Singlewall stovepipe is 36" again, so you need a stovepipe
sheild if the back is 18" from the wall. Also 44" or 54" above the stove
(and if you have an old wooden porch roof, I'd think about sheilding
that). You really want to be using triplewall stainless zero clearance
pipe through the roof - no telling what the squirrels will do the attic,
combustible-material-wise.
Please have your planning, and your actual installation checked by
someone with a clue (if no code/inspection on this where you are, have a
fire department guy look it over). Stoves are nice, but burning the
house down is not...
Jerry & Kathleen Crawford
Good advice. Around here, we get the run-around from our insurance.
One day THEY want to inspect it, next day they say whatever the local fire
department says is OK. (The fire chief had a house fire in his chimney last
year. Instills you with confidence, heh?)
We sifted and finally decided on our own design using metal 2x4's and
cement board, which is cleared for use around fire stoves. This is where it
goes through the upper floor and on the roof. Both the insurance agent and
fire department were impressed. We retained our grandfathered insurance.
Kathleen
Ecnerwal wrote in message <37F577...@SOuthernVERmont.NET>...
John Galbreath Jr.
is 18". Whan a proper heat shield is used, the clearance drops to 9".
But, as you said, local codes or "authority having jurisdiction", have
the ultimate decision as to what is allowed locally.
Ecnerwal wrote:
>
> Clearances (generally set by local fire code, or "whichever is more
> stringent") - check (town office &/or fire department) if you have a
> local code or a license to get, and also see what your insurance company
> wants; sift through all of them, and satisfy the most restrictive of
> them for each issue.
>
> Around here (supposedly from a general code, but who knows...from memory
> anyway) 36" where there isn't a heat sheild, 18" where there is - "line
> of sight", so the back can be 18", but anything off the side which can
> "see" the unsheilded side of the stove should be 36" to combustible
> construction. Singlewall stovepipe is 36" again, so you need a stovepipe
> sheild if the back is 18" from the wall. Also 44" or 54" above the stove
> (and if you have an old wooden porch roof, I'd think about sheilding
> that). You really want to be using triplewall stainless zero clearance
> pipe through the roof - no telling what the squirrels will do the attic,
> combustible-material-wise.
>
> Please have your planning, and your actual installation checked by
> someone with a clue (if no code/inspection on this where you are, have a
> fire department guy look it over). Stoves are nice, but burning the
> house down is not...
--
Kevin Miller
>Hi!
>
>My husband and I recently purchased a used Vigilant Woodstove (Vermont
>Castings) circa 1977. It has an oval flue connector, which we have no idea
>what size pipe to buy! We have no manuals, no stickers on the back of the
>stove for clearances and what not... We are just lost!
We have the same kind of stove and use 8" 24 gauge pipe. It fits nicely
into the oval connecter.
You should also be able to order a manual from VC through your local
dealer.
>We have a built in porch in the front of the house that the stove is going
>on... it will ultimately heat our 1200 sq ft. home, more as a backup than
>anything. It's is going straight up through the roof .... about 8 feet to
>the ceiling and 3 feet thru the roof and then whatever we need above for the
>proper draft. The stove has a heat shield in the back of the stove that
>wraps around just the corners of the stove. It seems to be in very good
>shape, we just have no clue what we are doing!!! Any help would be greatly
>appreciated. Thank you so much.
VCs manual recomends 22" clearance for the pipes, 36" for unshielded
parts of the stove, and 10" for shielded parts. They also recommend a
hearth pad (24 gauge sheet metal over 1/2" asbestos or equivalent) 53"x
48". If you have a heat shield on the bottom then you can reduce the
thickness of the pad.
As others have pointed out these should be considered minimums. Your
insurance and local fire codes have precedence may be stricter.
>Heather Esposito & Fred Henry
>
>
Kevin Miller
mil...@tiac.net
http://www.tiac.net/users/miller7
Doug Younker
of cardbord and make an impresion of the oval flue collar to take with
you while shopping for an oval to round adapter.
--
73, Doug Younker N0LKK
Near Plainville,KS
do...@ruraltel.net
John Galbreath Jr. wrote:
>
> Contact the company at http://www.VermontCastings.com. They can get you
> an installation manual. As for the connector. Take a string and wrap
> around the flue collar. Now measure the string. Now 3.14 (Pi) x radius
> (1/2 diameter) times 2 (square). Examples follow:
>
> A six inch pipe measures 18.8 inches
>
> A seven inch pipe measures 22 inches
>
> An eight inch pipe measures 25.1 inches
>
> "Heather D. Esposito" wrote:
> >
> > Hi!
> >
> > My husband and I recently purchased a used Vigilant Woodstove (Vermont
> > Castings) circa 1977. It has an oval flue connector, which we have no idea
> > what size pipe to buy! We have no manuals, no stickers on the back of the
> > stove for clearances and what not... We are just lost!
> >
> > We have a built in porch in the front of the house that the stove is going
> > on... it will ultimately heat our 1200 sq ft. home, more as a backup than
> > anything. It's is going straight up through the roof .... about 8 feet to
> > the ceiling and 3 feet thru the roof and then whatever we need above for the
> > proper draft. The stove has a heat shield in the back of the stove that
> > wraps around just the corners of the stove. It seems to be in very good
> > shape, we just have no clue what we are doing!!! Any help would be greatly
> > appreciated. Thank you so much.
> >
> > Heather Esposito & Fred Henry
>
Garry W
>Works if the flue collar is round, I thought it was oval. Use a peice
>of cardbord and make an impresion of the oval flue collar to take with
>you while shopping for an oval to round adapter.
In this case, it's not that complicated - you just squeeze the round pipe
gently. Then slide it into the hole in the stove and put in a couple of
sheet-metal screws to hold it in place. I believe someone else mentioned that
a standard 8" pipe was the correct size.
Garry
Doug Younker
>
> In this case, it's not that complicated - you just squeeze the round pipe
> gently. Then slide it into the hole in the stove and put in a couple of
> sheet-metal screws to hold it in place. I believe someone else mentioned that
> a standard 8" pipe was the correct size.
>
> Garry
You slide it IN the flange? I'm sure the sheet shetal flue pipe can be
formed around the flange. For my money, I like to make things hard as I
can for Murphy, I'd go shopping for the oval to round piece.
Steve Spence
prevent drippings on the outside of the pipes.
--
--
Steve Spence
Renewable Energy Pages
http://www.webconx.com
--
Doug Younker <do...@ruraltel.net> wrote in message
news:37F814...@ruraltel.net...
Garry W
> You slide it IN the flange? I'm sure the sheet shetal flue pipe can be
>formed around the flange.
If you put the chimney pipe around the -outside- of the flange on the stove
your creosote will drip all over the floor. (There may be an inner flange on
that stove, I can't really remember. But I'm talking about the outer flange.)
When you build a stovepipe chimney, you always start with the male end of the
pipe down, female up, and you continue that way as you build your way to the
sky. Otherwise, the pipe will leak creosote and rain water. And you always
try to avoid horizontal stretches, but if you have to have them you tilt them
a little towards the stove, same reason.
Garry
PS - Things may drip all over the floor anyhow, if the inside of your stove
gets saturated during a heavy rain. Nothing like a black puddle after a
summer rain. Put a good cap on the top end of the pipe.
Doug Younker
Doug
Heather D. Esposito
Vermont Castings will not give me a manual, but they gave me a local company
that could. I gave them a call over a week ago and I haven't heard from them
since! As for the local code, they said whatever the books say! We live in a
VERY SMALL town. The string idea is great -- LOVE IT! And just thanks to
everyone, you've been wonderful!
Heather Esposito
Heather D. Esposito <tril...@superior.net> wrote in message
news:37f56...@nebula.superior.net...
by...@providence.edu
> Hi!
>
> My husband and I recently purchased a used Vigilant Woodstove (Vermont
> Castings) circa 1977. It has an oval flue connector, which we have no idea
> what size pipe to buy! We have no manuals, no stickers on the back of the
> stove for clearances and what not... We are just lost!
>
> We have a built in porch in the front of the house that the stove is going
> on... it will ultimately heat our 1200 sq ft. home, more as a backup than
> anything. It's is going straight up through the roof .... about 8 feet to
> the ceiling and 3 feet thru the roof and then whatever we need above for the
> proper draft. The stove has a heat shield in the back of the stove that
> wraps around just the corners of the stove. It seems to be in very good
> shape, we just have no clue what we are doing!!! Any help would be greatly
> appreciated. Thank you so much.
>
> Heather Esposito & Fred Henry
carol....@gmail.com
> Hi!
>
> My husband and I recently purchased a used Vigilant Woodstove (Vermont
> Castings) circa 1977. It has an oval flue connector, which we have no idea
> what size pipe to buy! We have no manuals, no stickers on the back of the
> stove for clearances and what not... We are just lost!
>
> We have a built in porch in the front of the house that the stove is going
> on... it will ultimately heat our 1200 sq ft. home, more as a backup than
> anything. It's is going straight up through the roof .... about 8 feet to
> the ceiling and 3 feet thru the roof and then whatever we need above for the
> proper draft. The stove has a heat shield in the back of the stove that
> wraps around just the corners of the stove. It seems to be in very good
> shape, we just have no clue what we are doing!!! Any help would be greatly
> appreciated. Thank you so much.
>
> Heather Esposito & Fred Henry
Good luck