Stickler wood splitter
David P. Fraleigh
I have been looking for a Stickler wood splitter for quite a while
and finally was able to purchase one... For those of you who don't know
what it is.... it is essentially a giant screw that you bolt on to the
rear axle of a car that splits firewood by simply screwing into it... It
has the advantage of being very simple (no hydraulics, no engine... etc)..
The people that made it Arnold industries quit doing so several years
ago.. (I think that it was for a combination of factors,... owner
retired, liability factors (it can be dangerous), and aparently it had a
safety engine cut-off swith which didn't adapt well to newer ignition
systems--
Anyway the stock and rights to the Stickler have been bought out by
Craig Cleveland
CDK Quality Products
PO Box 244
Enumclaw, Wa. 98022
phone (360) 802-4366 fax (206) 939-2322
(I don't know what he charges for the Stickler...)
I luckily found someone who used to sell them and he has a few left that
he would be glad to sell at his cost ($150 plus shipping)... He is a
delight to deal with.. His name is John Mugler and his e-mail address is
10351...@CompuServe.COM
or he can be reached at PO Box 187, Bellvue, Co. 80512..
I hope this doesn't seem like an add for either person. I have no
business relationship with either gentleman... I was simply looking hard
for this product and found them as the sources and I thought others might
be interested also..
Unknown
Just curious, but exactly how does this thing work?? I have
never heard of one of these before and you got me wondering. How
do you get it started into a piece of wood? Do you have to jack
up one tire on the car to use it?? I guess that means that you
can't use a vehicle with a posi-traction in the rear end, huh??
Thanks!
Keith
==========David P. Fraleigh, 5/10/97==========
Keith M. Boyd Nothing Could be Finer than
NCR Corp. Huntin' and Fishin' in
3325 Platt Springs Rd. South Carolina
West Columbia, SC 29170 Go Gamecocks, Go Braves
David P. Fraleigh
The Stickler works by jacking up the car, placing it on a jack stand or
log and removing the wheel. You then bolt the Stickler onto the axle,
start the car and place it in second gear and adjust the carburator so
that the car speedometer indicates around 20 miles per hour.// (The tip
of the Stickler should be about a foot or so of the ground). You then
take a log and jab one end of it onto the Stickler and the tapered screw
does the rest.... splits it in a few seconds... I have seen one in action
and it is quite remarkable.... Easier and quicker than a hydraulic
splitter....
--
Dave Reid
I've seen these before, but completely forgot about them. I saw one in
use once and was very impressed. Does anyone know where (or if) I can
find one in the Mid-Michigan area?
--
Dave Reid _ _~@ __@
EDS Buick City Assembly |O\ _-\<,-\<,_
Flint, Michigan (*)-(*)/---/-(*)
lnusbcy1(dot)kzhmsx(at)eds(dot)com
Cameron Laird
In article <337B29...@for.email>, Dave Reid <see...@for.email> wrote:
>David P. Fraleigh wrote:
>> The Stickler works by jacking up the car, placing it on a jack stand or
>> log and removing the wheel. You then bolt the Stickler onto the axle,
>> start the car and place it in second gear and adjust the carburator so
>> that the car speedometer indicates around 20 miles per hour.// (The tip
>> of the Stickler should be about a foot or so of the ground). You then
>> take a log and jab one end of it onto the Stickler and the tapered screw
>> does the rest.... splits it in a few seconds... I have seen one in action
>> and it is quite remarkable.... Easier and quicker than a hydraulic
>> splitter....
>
>I've seen these before, but completely forgot about them. I saw one in
>use once and was very impressed. Does anyone know where (or if) I can
>find one in the Mid-Michigan area?
.
.
I'm not so impressed. In my experience, most of splitting
is manhandling (moving, aligning, stacking, ...) the billets;
splitting, in a narrow sense, is a small fraction of the
total effort, and, depending on your circumstances, the most
pleasurable part. I like using mauls with very heavy (10-16
pound) heads, and my rough experiments have satisfied me that
any acceleration such mechanical aids as the Stickler offers
aren't worth the expense.
One personal bias: I prefer to work without motors, just be-
cause I'm sensitive to the sound.
As an engineering achievement, I agree that the Stickler is
admirable. I can imagine it's perfect for some people--just
not for me, at least not now.
--
Cameron Laird http://starbase.neosoft.com/~claird/home.html
cla...@NeoSoft.com +1 713 623 8000 #227
+1 713 996 8546 FAX
Jennifer J. Lance
You do NOT stick the end of the log onto the screw point! You'll have
yourself a real problem if you do! You put the SIDE of the log into the
screw point. I love mine. Use it on an old 520 Bobcat and it splits all
day.
Jennifer
Dave Reid <see...@for.email> wrote in article <337B29...@for.email>...
Bob McKay
cla...@Starbase.NeoSoft.COM (Cameron Laird) writes:
>>David P. Fraleigh wrote:
>>> The Stickler works by jacking up the car, placing it on a jack stand or
>>> log and removing the wheel. You then bolt the Stickler onto the axle,
>>> start the car and place it in second gear and adjust the carburator so
>>> that the car speedometer indicates around 20 miles per hour.// (The tip
>>> of the Stickler should be about a foot or so of the ground). You then
>>> take a log and jab one end of it onto the Stickler and the tapered screw
>>> does the rest.... splits it in a few seconds... I have seen one in action
>>> and it is quite remarkable.... Easier and quicker than a hydraulic
>>> splitter....
>>
>I'm not so impressed. In my experience, most of splitting
>is manhandling (moving, aligning, stacking, ...) the billets;
>splitting, in a narrow sense, is a small fraction of the
>total effort, and, depending on your circumstances, the most
>pleasurable part. I like using mauls with very heavy (10-16
>pound) heads, and my rough experiments have satisfied me that
>any acceleration such mechanical aids as the Stickler offers
>aren't worth the expense.
I guess it depends on the wood. With the Eucalypts we have to deal with, the
splitting is definitely the largest part of the work (not that it can't be
pleasurable if you're mad about something, but for me, that pleasure lasts ten
minutes at the most - then it's just backbreaking work). But I was hoping
someone might comment on how effective these gizmos are with very hard wood - I
picture myself hanging on the the block of wood and being turned into a
windmill!!
Cheers
Bob McKay
--
,-_|\ Bob McKay, Comp Sci, ADFA tel:+61 6 268 8169 / = \
/ \ ACT 2600 AUSTRALIA fax:+61 6 268 8581 / :::::: \
\_,-._/ http://www.cs.adfa.oz.au/~rim r...@cs.adfa.oz.au \ :::::: /
v See our web pages for CS & IS PG research/course degrees \ __ /
Cameron Laird
In article <rim.864610332@dolphin>,
Bob McKay <r...@dolphin.cs.adfa.oz.au> wrote:
>cla...@Starbase.NeoSoft.COM (Cameron Laird) writes:
.
.
.
>>I'm not so impressed. In my experience, most of splitting
>>is manhandling (moving, aligning, stacking, ...) the billets;
>>splitting, in a narrow sense, is a small fraction of the
>>total effort, and, depending on your circumstances, the most
>>pleasurable part. I like using mauls with very heavy (10-16
>>pound) heads, and my rough experiments have satisfied me that
>>any acceleration such mechanical aids as the Stickler offers
>>aren't worth the expense.
>
>I guess it depends on the wood. With the Eucalypts we have to deal with, the
>splitting is definitely the largest part of the work (not that it can't be
>pleasurable if you're mad about something, but for me, that pleasure lasts ten
>minutes at the most - then it's just backbreaking work). But I was hoping
>someone might comment on how effective these gizmos are with very hard wood - I
>picture myself hanging on the the block of wood and being turned into a
>windmill!!
.
.
You're right--if I had to depend on elm, I'd be
looking for mechanical aids. Incidentally, my
experience is that the relevant dimension is not
hardness, but "twistedness"; there are very hard
woods (I'm thinking of hedge apple, oak, ...)
that split readily, and soft ones (cottonwood)
that can be quite challenging.
Someone surely can answer your question about
how well the Stickler does with eucalypts, but
it's not I.
Dominique
> >>> The Stickler works by jacking up the car, placing it on a jack stand or
> >>> log and removing the wheel. You then bolt the Stickler onto the axle,
> >>> start the car and place it in second gear and adjust the carburator so
> >>> that the car speedometer indicates around 20 miles per hour.// (The tip
> >>> of the Stickler should be about a foot or so of the ground). You then
> >>> take a log and jab one end of it onto the Stickler and the tapered screw
> >>> does the rest.... splits it in a few seconds... I have seen one in action
> >>> and it is quite remarkable.... Easier and quicker than a hydraulic
> >>> splitter....
> >>
> [snip]
> >is manhandling (moving, aligning, stacking, ...) the billets;
> >splitting, in a narrow sense, is a small fraction of the
> >total effort, and, depending on your circumstances, the most
> >pleasurable part. I like using mauls with very heavy (10-16
> >pound) heads, and my rough experiments have satisfied me that
> >any acceleration such mechanical aids as the Stickler offers
> >aren't worth the expense.
>
> I guess it depends on the wood. With the Eucalypts we have to deal with, the
> splitting is definitely the largest part of the work (not that it can't be
> pleasurable if you're mad about something, but for me, that pleasure lasts ten
> minutes at the most - then it's just backbreaking work). But I was hoping
> someone might comment on how effective these gizmos are with very hard wood - I
> picture myself hanging on the the block of wood and being turned into a
> windmill!!
> Bob McKay
We used a Stickler for about 4-5 years in the early '80's. We have
mainly oak here with a little laurel thrown in. To use it, you stick the
revolving point into the side of the log about 2/3's down from one end.
The long end of the log then gets braced against the ground stopping the
turning of the wood. Then the screw does it's work. It works okay in
hard woods, even the stringy kind. But the physical work of having to be
bent over all the time is what convinced us to do something different.
We finally bought a real log splitter and can easliy split our 2-4 cords
needed each year and even some to sell. Husbands back is feeling great
now. We still have the Stickler somewhere. It cost us $50 new. You get
what you pay for.
Dominique