Fast growing trees for a new farm house
CometX
trees in about 5 years?
Thanks
Paul
Com...@aol.com
We spend our lives running from things
Which are not chasing us
Steve Spence
--
--
Steve Spence
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"CometX" <com...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000910071122...@ng-fi1.aol.com...
Fran Higham
Fran
"CometX" <com...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000910071122...@ng-fi1.aol.com...
Richard Smith
John Klausner
shade trees in that time, but Eucalyptus are very fast growers in no
freeze areas, and in freeze areas, chinese elms are fast growers,
especially if you trim the side growth....at least, I think they can
grow in areas with freezing winter temps.. There's another one I've
seen in my area that is very fast growing - a Popular of some sort, I
think. There's a row of them that was planted for a wind break that
shot up to about 30-40 feet, was cut back to increase side growth (I
presume) and is now well on it's way back up. I don't remember exactly
when they put them in, but I don't think it was more than ten years
ago...they looked pretty wimpy when they planted them.
Sue
Rob Gray
>
> Can anyone recommend trees that would grow from seedlings to decent shade
> trees in about 5 years?
>
> Thanks
> Paul
> Com...@aol.com
Whenever looking for advice about plants, you need to say where you
live. What is appropriate in parts of Australia or Florida, would not be
appropriate in Maine or Canada.
That being said, I would advise getting a book on trees. As already
mentioned, many varieties of poplar grow very fast, although many of
them are not great shade trees. Although Oaks are generally known as
slower growing trees, there are varieties which grow much faster than
others. For example, Pin Oaks tend to grow a bit faster, and you may
have a somewhat decent shade tree in 10 to 15 years, if you plant a big
enough tree to start. Generally though, you are not going to get a great
shade tree really fast. Other trees you can consider are Gingko (a
Chinese tree), Norway Maple (very full canopy, sometimes people think
they give too much shade), or weeping Willow. Be careful with Willows
though. They will grow fast, but their roots can cause problems with
underground sewer pipes.
If you asked this question 30 years ago, the best answer would be
American Elm, since that was the premier shade tree. They grow
moderately quickly. Unfortunately, they have been wiped out by Dutch Elm
disease.
Good Luck,
Rob
--
Rob Gray
http://nj5.injersey.com/~alpha/
Willard(Jack) Davis
What area are you in? Alaska to Florida, Maine to Hawaii? Only certain
trees grow in certain areas you know.
lehu...@my-deja.com
com...@aol.com (CometX) wrote:
> Can anyone recommend trees that would grow from seedlings to
decent shade
You do not mention what zone you live in....?? However....Green Ash,
Soft/Red Maple, Paulownia, mulberry, and (blech)Tree of Heaven are all
possibilities.
And the bigger the transplant you can start with, the sooner you will
have decent shade.
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
tgb
>
> Can anyone recommend trees that would grow from seedlings to decent shade
> trees in about 5 years?
As others have noted since you don't note where you are it's tough to
tell you for sure. But you might want to look into hybrid poplars as
others have mentioned. I got mine from "Institrees Nursery"
(1-800-236-5353) and here, not quite at the end of the growing season of
the second year for some I've got trees at least 12-15 foot high, and
for others not quite at the end of their first season (which was nice
and wet this year), I've got 'em up to 7-8 foot. For at least the first
year you want to really baby them: mulch around them and keep the weeds
away, and keep them moist. But they pay you back with nice straight
growth and big ass leaves. If you want them tall fast, prune the
branches that develop. If you want them bushy but not so high so fast,
leave them.
Also put in some "niobe weeping willows" from one of those huge catalog
places whose name escapes me (a newspaper-like catalog), but they acted
funny. I got them 4-5 foot tall (you have some choices here, but they
basically just come as a tall stick), and they seemed to all die. But
then sprouts came out the bottom and they are going like mad. Some are
now ... 4-5 foot tall. Am wondering how these are going to grow into a
tree since these seem to be shoots/branches off the main, dead-looking
stem right at the bottom. But they is going great guns and I'm
optimistic. The more water for these guys the better, though I may have
even overdid that which gave me my odd growth. When you get them you
should get them in the ground pretty promptly and when I got mine we
were in the midst of an endless looking wet period. The holes I plunked
them in (around a low, perpetually damp spot that sometimes ponds)
filled with water in fact when I planted them, but I had no choice and
they weren't that expensive. I think they are going to be okay if I can
keep the deer off of them.
tgb
dogsnus
>
> CometX wrote:
> >
> > Can anyone recommend trees that would grow from seedlings to decent shade
> > trees in about 5 years?
> >
>
> What area are you in? Alaska to Florida, Maine to Hawaii? Only certain
> trees grow in certain areas you know.
Yup.
The zone is important_.
Also, it's wise to take a look at what is growing
naturally in one's area, and see if it's a fast growing tree or not.
I recommend Sunset's Book for Gardening to see what is a slow grower
and just what is winter hardy in one's one area.
Terri
Not affilated with Sunset in any way.
dashar
Pennsylvania, with brisk winters. This should help some.
Sharon
Steve Spence
that did not exist 5 years ago.
--
--
Steve Spence
Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter:
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We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors,
we borrow it from our children.
--
"dashar" <das...@centurytel.net> wrote in message
news:39BC2D3A...@centurytel.net...
R Bishop
"Steve Spence" <ssp...@webconx.com> wrote:
>ah, PA, then I recommend mulberry. I have a 25' right outside my window,
>that did not exist 5 years ago.
I happen to like red cedars. They are common, can be dug up and easily
transplanted, grow very thick with minimal shaping, are wonderful for
birds (ours turns into a multi-story bird house in the summer) and are
extremely hardy.
Sue
"Never trust anything that thinks for itself,
if you can't see where it keeps its brain."
J K Rowling
Dave Green
>>
>> Can anyone recommend trees that would grow from seedlings to decent
>shade
>> trees in about 5 years?
>
> As others have noted since you don't note where you are it's tough to
>tell you for sure. But you might want to look into hybrid poplars as
>others have mentioned. I got mine from
I think poplar is a weed tree. It does grow fast, but is short lived, and
drops a lot of limbs. For a magnificent shade tree that also grows fast I
recommend tulip poplar, which is not a poplar at all, but a magnolia.
It has large beautiful deep green leaves, a nice form, few diseases and pests
and will make a tall tree, with deep shade.
Polli...@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA
The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com
Disclaimer: Opinions aren't facts; learn the art of discrimination. Opinions
presented for your use and amusement; use at your own risk.
Rob Gray
tgb wrote:
> Also put in some "niobe weeping willows" from one of those huge catalog
> places whose name escapes me (a newspaper-like catalog), but they acted
> funny. I got them 4-5 foot tall (you have some choices here, but they
> basically just come as a tall stick), and they seemed to all die. But
> then sprouts came out the bottom and they are going like mad. Some are
> now ... 4-5 foot tall. Am wondering how these are going to grow into a
> tree since these seem to be shoots/branches off the main, dead-looking
> stem right at the bottom. But they is going great guns and I'm
> optimistic. The more water for these guys the better, though I may have
> even overdid that which gave me my odd growth.>
> tgb
TGB:
Don't worry about your willows. If your ground is wet enough, you can
take a cutting, stick it in the ground, and get a new tree. They are
that way. The new growth that you have will work fine, and turn into
full willows.
Sylvia Steiger
--
Sylvia Steiger RN SFNP BS, looking for fast-growing fruit trees for zone
3 in windy Wyoming
Remove "removethis" from address to reply
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/SylviaRN/quilting.htm
Excitedly anticipating moving onto our own land!
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/SylviaRN/land.htm
Steve Spence
taste similar to blackberries. in NJ, it's considered a weed, in how easily
and quickly it grows. mine is 25' in less than 5 years. I didn't plant it, a
bird dropping did.
--
--
Steve Spence
Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter:
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We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors,
we borrow it from our children.
--
"Sylvia Steiger" <MamaSylvia...@canada.com> wrote in message
news:39BC5C...@canada.com...
Ray Manning
considered fast growing. At least not relative to Douglas Fir, Alder or
Cottonwood (Poplar).
Ray
R Bishop <bis...@ix.netcom.com@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:8phhls$o7f$1...@slb6.atl.mindspring.net...
Willard(Jack) Davis
Sycamore or plane tree is also a hardy fast grower most everywhere. Have
you contacted your local agriculture agent for suggestion?
jack
lehu...@my-deja.com
In article <seWu5.57241$e11.4...@news1.rdc1.nj.home.com>,
"Steve Spence" <ssp...@webconx.com> wrote:
lehu...@my-deja.com
In article <8phhls$o7f$1...@slb6.atl.mindspring.net>,
Sylvia Steiger
Ha ha. The "local agricultural agent" is primarily responsible for
something else and apparently got the agricultural reference job added
to his description because he didn't duck fast enough. His standard
response is "I dunno, have you asked the local nursery?" Thank goodness
for the web!
--
Sylvia Steiger RN SFNP BS
Steve
Indeed! Birds love mulberrys, but when they pass through the
bird the droppings are bright purple and will stain cars,
clothes,
whatever if not removed directly
Steve
southiowa.
Shawn Turner
>> Is this mulberry fruit-bearing? What zones can it grow in?
>it is fruit bearing. it's a fast growing tree, with fruit that look and
>taste similar to blackberries. in NJ, it's considered a weed, in how easily
>and quickly it grows. mine is 25' in less than 5 years. I didn't plant it, a
>bird dropping did.
It often has surface type roots--do not plant it near pavement. And If you
want fruit from the d####d weeds prune them so they stay as a bush, or
really fast the fruit will all be forty feet up.
About the hybrid poplars-Lombardy grows fast, forms culumnar trees
that die in about five years. Nothing (except maybe a wet Persian cat)
looks more pathetic than a four year old stand of lombardy poplar.
There is a different hybrid poplar possible from Gurney or Henry
Fields that actually seems to make nice looking tree.
What I'd suggest is getting catalogs from Musser Forests
www.musserforests.com Henry Fields www.henryfields.com Gurneys
www.Gurneys.com and Mellingers www.mellingers.com and those
other people.
Here, for quick shade I'd probably go with hybrid elm 1st, hybrid (not
lombardy) poplar second.
Juniperis virginianus, eastern red cedar grows IIRC up to a foot a year,
and is fast growing for softwood.
What I _have_ planted is Hall's Hardy Almond, Yellowhorn, Trazel, Peach,
persimmon, apricot and grape. Finishing things, Mother Nature permitting
this time I hope, will be the Ben Franklin trees.
Shawn T
Spamblock: My e-mail address is not a barnyard.
Niermeyer
Ray Manning
it was apple trees and junipers. I've only seen the stuff once in the
midwest. Never seen it out here in WA where there are plenty of WRC.
<lehu...@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:8pj8e2$vbi$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
Q
<MamaSylvia...@canada.com> wrote:
>something else and apparently got the agricultural reference job added
>to his description because he didn't duck fast enough. His standard
>response is "I dunno, have you asked the local nursery?" Thank goodness
>for the web!
Have you checked with your local Soil Conservation District? Some
grow saplings themselves, others others operate through state nuseries
and for-profit nuseries.
--
Q
Anti-spam email address: Q atqsystems.com
Rob Gray
Franklinia Trees are nice in that they bloom, but they are not super
fast growers, or get really huge.
Steve IA
>
> Plant fruitless mulberries.
> cheryl
>
Are those called nulberries?
Steve
lehu...@my-deja.com
In article <8pl8fc$m3l$1...@paxfeed.eni.net>,
Shawn Turner
Franz wrote
>Grapevines ('wild grapes'): how can I propagate them where I want them to:
>they're doing well on my property wherever they want to grow. . .
>Do I make cuttings and root them, or do they need to be grown from seed?
Cuttings? Hmm. Well, Apparently so. (complete guide to growing berries and
grapes, Riotte, L)
Grape cuttings are made by selecting pencil-size canes. Three or four buds
per cane, Usually made when the grapes are pruned in Jan or Feb. Bundles
of about 25 canes tied together and labeled. Point all buds in same direction
in bundle. Bury upside down-buds pointing down- in well-drained area, cover
with 6-8 inches earth. after danger of frost is past push individual canes into
well prepared soil about 6 inches apart at about a 45° angle, leaving one
bud exposed. Up-side-up this time. Keep well watered. Cuttings should be
ready for the orchard the next spring.
Warning, some fancy types of grapes have roots that just don't do their job,
or can't take the cold, or damp, or local parasite.... and so are always grafted
onto a good rootstock (Such as wild grape ;-).
I'd bet money that you can grow them from seed, but IME from other plants
the seedling will be about a year smaller than the cutting.
Since the cutting procedure sounds so easy I would not bother digging
up a grapevine, grafting onto the roots, though this may result in a larger
plant than from cuttings.
I will, however, be grafting one or two of my seedless grapes onto that
volunteer grapevine that's under the kitchen window. Aahh, reaching out
window, eating fresh grapes right off the vine....
Shawn Turner
>> www.musserforests.com Henry Fields www.henryfields.com Gurneys
>> www.Gurneys.com and Mellingers www.mellingers.com and those
>> other people.
>>
>> Here, for quick shade I'd probably go with hybrid elm 1st, hybrid (not
>> lombardy) poplar second.
>> persimmon, apricot and grape. Finishing things, Mother Nature permitting
>> this time I hope, will be the Ben Franklin trees.
>fast growers, or get really huge.
Oops, only thing I did plant that grows fast is the grapevine. I was not trying
to be confusing, I was just more hungry than hot when I chose.
Franz
<sturneratn...@MooMeowemail.msn.com> wrote:
> Oops, only thing I did plant that grows fast is the grapevine. I was not
trying
> to be confusing, I was just more hungry than hot when I chose.
>
> Shawn T
-----------------
Grapevines ('wild grapes'): how can I propagate them where I want them to:
they're doing well on my property wherever they want to grow. . .
Do I make cuttings and root them, or do they need to be grown from seed?
Thanks,
Franz
John Klausner
centuries ago (or so it seems!) there seemed to be two types of
mulberries...one was a full blown tree, that had very bland fruit - not
worth picking. The other was an umbrella shaped tree...probably about
10 feet tall with almost weeping branches. The fruit had a much
stronger flavor, and it was particularly neat to stand in the shade
"inside" on a hot summer's day picking and enjoying the fruit. I was
very young at the time - I have no idea if there are two varieties of
mulberries - one cultivated and one wild - or if the difference was
simply one of pruning, grafting or some such horticultural practice, but
there was definitely a difference in the taste of the berry as well as
the shape of the tree. The birds never seemed to notice the difference,
though, and purple poops were a major menace during the fruiting
period. There was a difference in the color of the fruit, too. It's
hard to describe it after all these years, but the big tree fruit seemed
to go from green to white to purple to black, while the umbrella type
fruit seemed to go from green to white to pink to red to purple to
black. I've always wondered about the differences between the two
types...but wouldn't plant the trees too close to anywhere I didn't want
to get purple splotches - especially cars! My first forays into jam
making were with mulberries - from the umbrella type trees...!
SueK
lehu...@my-deja.com
Rob Gray
dirty trash trees. Cut them down if they sprout up near your house.
Traditional shade trees are the best. If for some reason you want a
fruit tree right near your house go for a standard size pear or apple.
At least the fruit is decent ;) Avoid fruits that rot more quickly (like
peaches) or ones that are small and can get stepped on and tracked into
the house easily (cherries or crab apples). Generally, fruit trees are
great, but I don't think they are the best for right near the house or
for shade trees. Start an orchard instead. One final piece of advice,
don't plant Osage Oranges near your driveway ;)
Regards,
Rob
--
Rob Gray
http://nj5.injersey.com/~alpha/
"a.m." wrote:
>
> I have a mulberry that produces white/cream colored berries. The other 30 or so [wild] mulberry trees here have normal purple
> berries. Is this a genetic throwback, a freak of nature, or just a variety? No one I've asked had ever heard of a white mulberry
> tree before.
>
> a.m.
>
> som...@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
a.m.
berries. Is this a genetic throwback, a freak of nature, or just a variety? No one I've asked had ever heard of a white mulberry
tree before.
a.m.
Judy Scott
wrote:
> I would never advise someone to plant mulberries near a house. They are
> dirty trash trees. Cut them down if they sprout up near your house.
> Traditional shade trees are the best. If for some reason you want a
> fruit tree right near your house go for a standard size pear or apple.
> At least the fruit is decent ;) Avoid fruits that rot more quickly (like
> peaches) or ones that are small and can get stepped on and tracked into
> the house easily (cherries or crab apples). Generally, fruit trees are
> great, but I don't think they are the best for right near the house or
> for shade trees. Start an orchard instead. One final piece of advice,
> don't plant Osage Oranges near your driveway ;)
>
> Regards,
>
> Rob
I agree about the mulberry. We are about to pay $$ to have one removed
from our front yard- it is way too big for the spot, leaning over 2 Cornus
Mas trees that are thriving, and is very close to electrical lines. This
is the first time we have had to use a tree service..yikes. We usually
fell them ourselves so this is a shock. We are downhill from a corn field
and get all the fertilizer run off, so things grow fast and big. If any
one is doing new plantings, consider the size of the mature tree. We have
a "widowmaker" Norfolk Island pine (at least 50') right off our porch that
makes me nervous when it gets really windy...
--
Judy in Ithaca, NY
Barry
: I would never advise someone to plant mulberries near a house. They are
: dirty trash trees. Cut them down if they sprout up near your house.
You think that's bad.
Someone planted a fig tree near my house. It's now about 20 years
old and every day or two, I have to get a 5 gallon bucket and pick 'em
up else they stick to my shoes like glue.
The sheep like 'em though.
Wubba
...Generally, fruit trees are
great, but I don't think they are the best for right near the house or
for shade trees. Start an orchard instead. One final piece of advice,
don't plant Osage Oranges near your driveway ;)
Regards,
Rob
--
Rob Gray
http://nj5.injersey.com/~alpha/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Fruit tree's close to ones house means yellowjackets,etc... all over the
place when the fruit ripens and falls....
Soooo.... How many flat tires from the Osage thorns, or dents from falling
fruit have your cars succumbed to? =:oO
Wubba
*Who says don't bring the sticky, "Alien brain" osage fruit in your house
regardless of folks swearin' that it repells spiders... Did not! Besides,
it's a breeding facility for fruitflies!!!*
Rob Gray
Wubba wrote:
>
> (snipped good tree advice)
> ...Generally, fruit trees are
> great, but I don't think they are the best for right near the house or
> for shade trees. Start an orchard instead. One final piece of advice,
> don't plant Osage Oranges near your driveway ;)
>
> Regards,
>
> Rob
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Fruit tree's close to ones house means yellowjackets,etc... all over the
> place when the fruit ripens and falls....
>
> Soooo.... How many flat tires from the Osage thorns, or dents from falling
> fruit have your cars succumbed to? =:oO
>
> Wubba
> *Who says don't bring the sticky, "Alien brain" osage fruit in your house
> regardless of folks swearin' that it repells spiders... Did not! Besides,
> it's a breeding facility for fruitflies!!!*
Friends of mine back in high school had their driveway along an old
fence row populated by mature Osage Orange trees. If they had people
over at their house and forgot to mention not to park under the trees,
visitors would sometimes get a dented car. Those Osage Oranges are some
mean fruit a little bigger than softball size, and very dense and
heavy;)
Richard Bishop
Wubba <we...@SPAMFOOLERcountrytraditions.com> wrote in message
news:Y1Oy5.606$8X6...@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> (snipped good tree advice)
> ...Generally, fruit trees are
> great, but I don't think they are the best for right near the house or
> for shade trees. Start an orchard instead. One final piece of advice,
> don't plant Osage Oranges near your driveway ;)
A while back, my brother ran into one of his neighbors at the store. The
guy was a real
mess, with bandages and cuts and scratches all over him. Seems he was out
in the pasture
and the bull decided he didn't like him any more. His only option was an
Osage Orange
tree.
OUCH!
Sue
>
> Regards,
>
> Rob
> --
> Rob Gray
> http://nj5.injersey.com/~alpha/
Shawn Turner
a.m. wrote in >...
>I have a mulberry that produces white/cream colored berries.
> The other 30 or so [wild] mulberry trees here have normal purple
>berries. Is this a genetic throwback, a freak of nature, or just a
> variety? No one I've asked had ever heard of a white mulberry
>tree before.
<shrug> It's a white mulberry. Sweeter berries that have a milder
falvor than the purple ones.