Technical Wig-Wag Question(s)
cobra295
First and foremost, without getting too technical, can a headlight
wig-wag set work OK on rear breaklights/reverse lights? It seems to
me the wiring would be the same, as long as the lights are 12v what
would the difference be? One technican mentioned to me that a
breaklight wig-wag set only differs in that if breaks were applied, it
would override the wig-wagging. Besides this, is there any difference
between the two comparable sets?
Now, to get a little more involved. Say I were to wire a rear wig-wag
set (or a similar headlight set, but in the rear)... Although the sets
are designed to alternate one set of lights (left-right-left-right),
could I use one wig-wag kit to control 2 sets of 2 lights each. In
other words, alternate the brake lights and reverse lights
(red-white-red-white-etc.)??? To me it would seem logical to just take
the "left" wires and place the reverse lights in parallel, and then
take the "right" wires and place the brake lights in parallel. Is
there any electrical reason or wig-wag specific problem that would
prevent me from making this work with one kit?
It's a little confusing to try to explain in text, but if you have any
comments/response, please email me. Let me also know if you think
you can help, but just need a clarification as to what I'm trying to
say. Thanks in advance for any help, I'm just trying to plan ahead
before I start tearing up the car. :)
David L. Butlien
often, the same device can be used, but not always.... remember that
when you are alternating high beams, and hit your high beam switch, you
are lighting up both sides of the flasher... not the same when you are
talking about the rear of the car, esp. if you have red lights that are
brake/tail/turns (if you hit your left signal, you dont want it to feed
thru the circuit to the right...)
Justin H. Blackstock
cobra295 wrote:
>
> First and foremost, without getting too technical, can a headlight
> wig-wag set work OK on rear breaklights/reverse lights? It seems to
> me the wiring would be the same, as long as the lights are 12v what
> would the difference be? One technican mentioned to me that a
> breaklight wig-wag set only differs in that if breaks were applied, it
> would override the wig-wagging. Besides this, is there any difference
> between the two comparable sets?
Why would you want rear wig wags? Are you planning Code 3 responses
while driving in reverse? Use your warning flashers... they are already
wired and will attract enough attention to get the job done.
I guess this is for your POV - it seems that any Emergency vehicle would
have a lightbar viewable 360degrees or rear rotating lights or flashers,
but wig-wags for the tail lights seem to be overkill.
But if you must, Gall's (800-477-7766) sells something similiar that
just plugs into most cars.
Just my $.02
Justin
****************************************
Justin H. Blackstock-- jbla...@utk.edu
url-- http://www.vet.utk.edu/~jblackst
Steve Williams
It would work but the flash rate would be slightly different due to the
different wattage of the bulbs. The only real problem is how to connect it
so that nothing else is effected. I think it would be easier to connect
inside the car by hooking up a double pole double throw switch to connect
the original wiring in while in one position and to set up traffic backer
type lighting in the other position. The other problem is this setup can
only be used on response vehicles with code three equipment, at least that
is the case in NY. You can be fined for using it if your a volunteer
without a red light authorization. Good luck. By the way I know about the
fine the hard way. Live and learn. Steve
cobra295 <cobr...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in article
<5mi68r$8...@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>...
> First and foremost, without getting too technical, can a headlight
> wig-wag set work OK on rear breaklights/reverse lights? It seems to
> me the wiring would be the same, as long as the lights are 12v what
> would the difference be? One technican mentioned to me that a
> breaklight wig-wag set only differs in that if breaks were applied, it
> would override the wig-wagging. Besides this, is there any difference
> between the two comparable sets?
>
Guy F. Balok
cobra295 writes:
>
>First and foremost, without getting too technical, can a headlight
>wig-wag set work OK on rear breaklights/reverse lights? It seems to
>me the wiring would be the same, as long as the lights are 12v what
>would the difference be? One technican mentioned to me that a
>breaklight wig-wag set only differs in that if breaks were applied, it
>would override the wig-wagging. Besides this, is there any difference
>between the two comparable sets?
>
>Now, to get a little more involved. Say I were to wire a rear wig-wag
>set (or a similar headlight set, but in the rear)... Although the sets
>are designed to alternate one set of lights (left-right-left-right),
>could I use one wig-wag kit to control 2 sets of 2 lights each. In
>other words, alternate the brake lights and reverse lights
>(red-white-red-white-etc.)??? To me it would seem logical to just take
>the "left" wires and place the reverse lights in parallel, and then
>take the "right" wires and place the brake lights in parallel. Is
>there any electrical reason or wig-wag specific problem that would
>prevent me from making this work with one kit?
>
>It's a little confusing to try to explain in text, but if you have any
>comments/response, please email me. Let me also know if you think
>you can help, but just need a clarification as to what I'm trying to
>say. Thanks in advance for any help, I'm just trying to plan ahead
>before I start tearing up the car. :)
>
>
>
found out that the only device you should use is a device designed for
this function.
After conversation with a GM Engineer friend of mine I found out that
the cars (for over the last 10 years or so) have been deigned to
controll the engine and transmission, while watching these funstions
they also watch the taillights; this is so that the computer can
anticipate future demands on the car. If an off the shelf headlight
flasher is used on the taillights it can confuse and the computer and
possibly damage the car.
The new high tech taillight flashers take the computer into
consideration and they make the computer see that taillights are
operating in a normal function.
I recommend that you use a device designed for this function.
Sgt. Guy Balok
NORTHVILLE TOWNSHIP FIRE DEPARTMENT
Northville, Michigan
TimLynchFF
cobra295 writes:
>
>First and foremost, without getting too technical, can a headlight
>wig-wag set work OK on rear breaklights/reverse lights? It seems to
>me the wiring would be the same, as long as the lights are 12v what
>would the difference be? One technican mentioned to me that a
>breaklight wig-wag set only differs in that if breaks were applied, it
>would override the wig-wagging. Besides this, is there any difference
>between the two comparable sets?
>
>Now, to get a little more involved. Say I were to wire a rear wig-wag
>set (or a similar headlight set, but in the rear)... Although the sets
>are designed to alternate one set of lights (left-right-left-right),
>could I use one wig-wag kit to control 2 sets of 2 lights each. In
>other words, alternate the brake lights and reverse lights
>(red-white-red-white-etc.)??? To me it would seem logical to just take
>the "left" wires and place the reverse lights in parallel, and then
>take the "right" wires and place the brake lights in parallel. Is
>there any electrical reason or wig-wag specific problem that would
>prevent me from making this work with one kit?
>
>It's a little confusing to try to explain in text, but if you have any
>comments/response, please email me. Let me also know if you think
>you can help, but just need a clarification as to what I'm trying to
>say. Thanks in advance for any help, I'm just trying to plan ahead
>before I start tearing up the car. :)
>
Go for it, I am a firefighter in NY and in a recient class I was taking
the hosting town needed to bolck the road and a Lieut. used his car a
1990ish Chevy Blazer and his reverse and brake lights were the wig-wag. I
asked him if it was just a standard wig-wag and he said yes. I asked him
if it caused him any problems (generic question) He siad that it works
great and NO Problems. I called GALLS and ordered mine and now they are
on my 1994 Ford Explorer. I have had them for 3 months and no problems
yet. Have fun. and enjoy them.
Tim
Tim Lynch
Vista Fire Dept.
Vista, NY
Shawn C. Robak
cobra295 (cobr...@ix.netcom.com) scribbled in alt.firefighters:
:>Now, to get a little more involved. Say I were to wire a rear wig-wag
:>set (or a similar headlight set, but in the rear)... Although the sets
:>are designed to alternate one set of lights (left-right-left-right),
:>could I use one wig-wag kit to control 2 sets of 2 lights each. In
:>other words, alternate the brake lights and reverse lights
:>(red-white-red-white-etc.)??? To me it would seem logical to just take
:>the "left" wires and place the reverse lights in parallel, and then
:>take the "right" wires and place the brake lights in parallel. Is
:>there any electrical reason or wig-wag specific problem that would
:>prevent me from making this work with one kit?
There are already kits made that do what in the end you are trying to
accomplish. Gall's has them. In effect, they flash the brake lights, and then
the reverse lights, but they do both brakes at the same time, then both reverse
at the same time. Now, I supposed that it could be wired up easily so that one
set of wires going to a brake/rev cluster were reversed from the other...
If you do it this way, it will be cheaper than buying 2 wig-wag units, and less
wires too.
:>It's a little confusing to try to explain in text, but if you have any
:>comments/response, please email me. Let me also know if you think
:>you can help, but just need a clarification as to what I'm trying to
:>say. Thanks in advance for any help, I'm just trying to plan ahead
:>before I start tearing up the car. :)
--
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Tyler Groo
cobr...@ix.netcom.com (cobra295) wrote:
> First and foremost, without getting too technical, can a headlight
> wig-wag set work OK on rear breaklights/reverse lights?
> It's a little confusing to try to explain in text, but if you have any
> comments/response, please email me.
Biggest puzzle to me is why you wouldn't want to obtain a flasher unit
designed for the intended application and install according to mfgr
instructions...
I have installed and used both types (from both Gall's and Sound Off, Inc.
I think at different times) -- they are definitely different setups, but
I'd have to look at installations and spec sheets to try and
determine/describe why they might not work interchangably as you suggest.
You don't really want technical electrical advice from me, tho' --
sometimes I can figure out more than I really understand, and sometimes I
just figure out wrong. Good luck!
Tyler Groo, EMT-B | Rager Emergency Services (RES)
"Don't blame them | 171500 Beaver Creek Rd., Paulina, OR 97751
for what I think." | (541) 477-3162/477-3713
BLS ambulance serving parts of Crook/Grant/Wheeler/Harney Counties
fire...@primenet.com
You might want to check your state vehicle laws concerning lights and
colors. Flashing to the rear white or red may be regulated by law as
to who may use it and when. A little research may save you a ticket.
cobr...@ix.netcom.com (cobra295) wrote:
>First and foremost, without getting too technical, can a headlight
>wig-wag set work OK on rear breaklights/reverse lights? It seems to
>me the wiring would be the same, as long as the lights are 12v what
>would the difference be? One technican mentioned to me that a
>breaklight wig-wag set only differs in that if breaks were applied, it
>would override the wig-wagging. Besides this, is there any difference
>between the two comparable sets?
>Now, to get a little more involved. Say I were to wire a rear wig-wag
>set (or a similar headlight set, but in the rear)... Although the sets
>are designed to alternate one set of lights (left-right-left-right),
>could I use one wig-wag kit to control 2 sets of 2 lights each. In
>other words, alternate the brake lights and reverse lights
>(red-white-red-white-etc.)??? To me it would seem logical to just take
>the "left" wires and place the reverse lights in parallel, and then
>take the "right" wires and place the brake lights in parallel. Is
>there any electrical reason or wig-wag specific problem that would
>prevent me from making this work with one kit?
>It's a little confusing to try to explain in text, but if you have any
Denis McMahon
Hi cobr...@ix.netcom.com!
Wednesday May 28 1997 21:57, cobr...@ix.netcom.com wrote to All:
c> It's a little confusing to try to explain in text, but if you have any
c> comments/response
Okay, in the back of the car you have brake lights andyou have reversing (back-up) lights.
The easiest way to do this, and I think Galls have a unit, is to flash red / white / red / white.
You can do this with a two pin flasher can and a change-over relay:
Reversing switch <------------------>|-----+--> Whites
|
+-->|--+
|
12 v <--[switch]--+--[flasher can]--+--[relay-coil]--GND
|
+--[Relay normally closed]-->|-+
|
Brake switch <-------------------------->|-------+--> Reds
The little symbol ->|- is a diode. 5 amp rating is minimum, work it out from total watts / volts. Eg 2 * 21 watts = 42 watts / 12v = 3 and a half. Add a bit for safety, you may run up to 14v on a vehicle electrical system, and current alo increases! I would use 10 amp diodes for 2 * 21 watts, 15 amps for 2 * 55 watts. A normal 2 pin flasher can will only give a proper rate of flash when correctly loaded, which is usually about 2 * 21 watts.
When the switch is on, the can flashes the whites. The relay flashes the reds on when the whites are off. If you back-up, or brake, the whites or reds come on solid.
When the switch is off, and you back-up, there is no supply through the contacts to the reds because of the diodes. Likewise, when you brake there is no path through the diodes to the whites.
The diodes in the normal feed to the reds and whites to stop the wig-wag powering other circuits on the same supply as the brakes and back-up lights if you touch the brake or select reverse when the wig-wag is on and other circuits are off.
To do a similar thing side to side uses a few more diodes.
(2)
|
+-->|--+--> Right White
|
Reversing switch < -------+---------->|----+--> Left White
|
+-->|--+
|
+-->|--(1)
|
12 v <--[switch]--+--[flasher can]--+--[relay-coil]--GND
|
+--[Relay normally closed]--+-->|--(2)
|
+-->|--+
|
Brake switch <------------------+--------->|---------+--> Right Red
|
+-->|--+--> Left Red
|
(1)
As each diode only feeds one bulb in this case, 5 amp rating is ok for 21 watt bulbs (so is 3, probably). I'd use 10 amp rating for 55 watt lamps though.
Regards
Denis
de...@pickaxe.demon.co.uk dmcm...@edlgu4.ericsson.se
http://www.pickaxe.demon.co.uk/
Snoopy 1
>>
>>
>>
>We hooked up a tail light flasher to our '97 GMC pick-up this year. We
>found out that the only device you should use is a device designed for
>this function.
>
>After conversation with a GM Engineer friend of mine I found out that
>the cars (for over the last 10 years or so) have been deigned to
>controll the engine and transmission, while watching these funstions
>they also watch the taillights; this is so that the computer can
>anticipate future demands on the car. If an off the shelf headlight
>flasher is used on the taillights it can confuse and the computer and
>possibly damage the car.
>
>The new high tech taillight flashers take the computer into
>consideration and they make the computer see that taillights are
>operating in a normal function.
>
>I recommend that you use a device designed for this function.
>
>Sgt. Guy Balok
>NORTHVILLE TOWNSHIP FIRE DEPARTMENT
>Northville, Michigan
>
Another factor to consider - on many of the PD cars - the "flashers" are
actually a SECOND lamp added to the housing. This is true especially with
the strobes. If you get the strobe setup from Galls - or other places - you
can either get the lamps ready to install - OR - you can purchase already
modified lamp housings.
Now, if nothing else, if this would work for strobes - you could concievably
do this with regular incadescent lamps. Pick up a used lamp housing from a
wrecking yard (or at the scene of your next MVC) and practice drilling, etc.
Chamberlain
Buy a backflash kit.
Snoopy 1
FINALLY, someone remembered the umbiquous diode. I have been watching this
thread for quite a while. Some years ago I wired up some wig-wags for an
ambulance, but the same idea would work here. Used the fog lights - they
could be used either in normal mode or wig-wag. Part of the trick was to use
diodes on both feeds - that for normal and the leads for wig wag.
Same thing for this particular application that the thread discusses.
However, instead of the relay - what I used was a #536 flasher - it IS an
alternating flasher, available at any auto store. The only "problem" is to
make sure there is sufficient load on the normally closed side, or the
flasher wont "heat up" enough to alternate. The fog lights drew enough
current to flash at a steady rate. In another application I installed - the
"lollipop" lights in the rear window didnt draw enough, so the "wig wag"
effect was "uneven", time-wise. I solved this problem by adding an
additional lamp at the front of the vehicle on the NC side of flasher, and
then the wigwag effect was "balanced"
Just thought I would add my 3cents.
another who uses only 1 "n" in his name
Denis Rickey
Chuck Kenyon
...sometimes I can figure out more than I really understand...
Thanks Tyler! You just helped me figure out what I've been doing wrong
all these years! :)
--
Chuck Kenyon
Eastern Wyoming College by day
Torrington Volunteer Fire Department by page
"Send Lawyers, Guns and Money, Dad, Please get me out of this!"
(Warren Zevon - Exciteable Boy)
Wirez
In article <5mi68r$8...@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>,
cobr...@ix.netcom.com (cobra295) wrote:
>First and foremost, without getting too technical, can a headlight
>wig-wag set work OK on rear breaklights/reverse lights? It seems to
>me the wiring would be the same, as long as the lights are 12v what
>would the difference be? One technican mentioned to me that a
>breaklight wig-wag set only differs in that if breaks were applied, it
>would override the wig-wagging. Besides this, is there any difference
>between the two comparable sets?
First off, let me start by saying WOW. You managed to get a lot of
useless responses from people telling you to go buy the unit designed
for this. If you wanted to do that you wouldn't have posted your
question!
Secondly, I am using a wig-wag unit currently as a back-flasher and it
works great. I'll get into the wiring in a minute.
There was someone here who posted that they just took a regular wig-
wag unit and plugged it in to the rear wiring with nothing special. If
that is truly what was done with a wig-wag unit - IT DOESN'T
WORK. Check your backup lights next time you press the brake -
they go on. Check your brake lights next time you shift to reverse -
they go on too....
Think about it. This is how it works on your headlights. When the
unit is off, and your highbeams are on, 12V goes to the left headlight,
into the wig-wag, out the right wire on the wig-wag and to the right
headlight.
Also, someone said it was necessary to have a diode in place
somewhere to use seperate wig-wags on fog-lamps if you wanted
the fog-lamps to work normal too? Wrong again. Just wire
the wigs up normal as if the fog-lamps were headlights. No
difference. With the wigs off and power applied to the fog
lights - they will work.
Also, a mention was made about the flashing speed being slow
because the load is less than headlights. This should not be the
case if you are using a wig-wag made by either AMI or Whelen.
These are the most common ones. Galls are actually made by
Whelen. These all use independent relays inside that don't care about
load. Any wig-wag that uses a vehicle directional flasher may have
speed problems or may not work at all because of load differences.
Now, with this aside, here is how you can rig up a wig-wag to work
for rear flashing. This will allow the 3rd brake light to still work,
while flashing, on vehicles that have one.
You will need to buy 2 DPDT relays (or a 3PDT if you can find one).
This is fairly difficult to explain in words, but easy to do. It probably
needs to be diagrammed out, so try and build one off of this. I don't
have the time to write out an ascii diagram, sorry.
A single, switched, 12V+ source needs to run to the rear. This will
feed the wig-wag unit, the relays and lights. Logically break down the
relays. There are a total of 4 poles. On one pole you will have nothing
wired to it - this will be wasted as you only truly need 3 poles. On
another pole you will have the left taillight coming in on the
`live' side and going out to it's normal location in `off' mode through
the center feed on the relay. On another pole do the same for the
right taillight. With the last pole, take the backuplight feed
in on the `live' side and going out to it's normal location through the
center feed on the relay.
All of the above is pre-work for setting up the wig-wags. Everything
should still work normal after this is done, so test it.
Now, take your 12V+ source you ran from the front and make 4 feeds
off of it. Wire one to the `trigger' of the wig-wag and one to the 12V
in line of the wig-wag. The current is low enough that we can share
the same power line for this.
Take 2 more feeds off the 12V+ source and attach it to the power for
each of the relays.
Final step...take one side of the wig-wag and attach it to the `dead'
side of BOTH of the relay's for the taillight and do the same with the
other wig-wag wire for the `dead' side for the backup lights.
This works. You'll have to spend about $5 for the relays and
whatever for some wire if you don't have any sitting around. This can
look like a small bird's nest when you are done, but it works great.
P. Jeff Dickerson
In a message dated 97-06-01 03:27:13 EDT, ch...@EPIX.NET (Chamberlain)
writes:
<<
Buy a backflash kit.
>>
Hey, I say if you have the time, aptitude and lack the funds , make your
own. ( Works best on older American cars. ) If you can buy a kit. If anyone
is interested Email me and I can Fax you a diagram for the one I made. I use
it to alternate my brake and reverse lights on scene. I know its illegal in
PA but I have been lucky so far. I dont use them enroute, and if I can I try
not to use any lights enroute. At least til I can use a red one ! Too many
people dont know how to react to a blue light. I had a call tonite where the
family of a not too serious diabetic followed the ambulance about ten feet
back. With his four ways blinking he ran lights , almost got in an accident
and elbowed out my medic unit. At the hospital he tried to park in the amb
bay. He couldnt figure out why the medic driver was screaming at him. Lets
try to help educate these poor bastards before we are picking them up. Jeff
Gary Hecker RN
On 04 Jun 1997 00:33:51 -0400 P. Jeff Dickerson Writes:
<snip>
>people dont know how to react to a blue light. I had a call tonite where the
>family of a not too serious diabetic followed the ambulance about ten feet
>back. With his four ways blinking he ran lights , almost got in an accident
>and elbowed out my medic unit. At the hospital he tried to park in the amb
>bay. He couldnt figure out why the medic driver was screaming at him. Lets
>try to help educate these poor bastards before we are picking them up. Jeff
>
Jeff
Did you happen to instruct this individual to meet you at the hospital
rather than follow you as you were leaving the scene. When ever a family
member says "I'll follow you", I give them those instructions.
Gary Hecker RN, EMT
Graduate Student Agency Nurse
University of Cincinnati Emergency Ward
College of Nursing Bellevue Hospital NY, NY
David L. Butlien
ok, but i would point out that you are using the relays to isolate the
lights rather than diodes... i did not read the original as excluding
the potential purchase of a 'purpose built' unit, if that's what was
meant, i'm sorry.
Ken
Gary Hecker RN <heck...@UCBEH.SAN.UC.EDU> wrote in article
<01IJNVJ4R...@UCBEH.SAN.UC.EDU>...
> On 04 Jun 1997 00:33:51 -0400 P. Jeff Dickerson Writes:
>
> <snip>
>
> >people dont know how to react to a blue light. I had a call tonite
where the
> >family of a not too serious diabetic followed the ambulance about ten
feet
> >back. With his four ways blinking he ran lights , almost got in an
accident
> >and elbowed out my medic unit. At the hospital he tried to park in the
amb
> >bay. He couldnt figure out why the medic driver was screaming at him.
Lets
> >try to help educate these poor bastards before we are picking them up.
Jeff
> >
>
>
> Jeff
>
> Did you happen to instruct this individual to meet you at the hospital
> rather than follow you as you were leaving the scene. When ever a family
> member says "I'll follow you", I give them those instructions.
Even more, I've stopped and RE-instructed family members. Last thing I
need
is another patient.
Ken A
Chris Bonin
Snoopy 1 wrote:
>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >We hooked up a tail light flasher to our '97 GMC pick-up this year. We
> >found out that the only device you should use is a device designed for
> >this function.
> >
> >After conversation with a GM Engineer friend of mine I found out that
> >the cars (for over the last 10 years or so) have been deigned to
> >controll the engine and transmission, while watching these funstions
> >they also watch the taillights; this is so that the computer can
> >anticipate future demands on the car. If an off the shelf headlight
> >flasher is used on the taillights it can confuse and the computer and
> >possibly damage the car.
> >
> >The new high tech taillight flashers take the computer into
> >consideration and they make the computer see that taillights are
> >operating in a normal function.
> >
> >I recommend that you use a device designed for this function.
> >
Just my $.02: I bought the Gall's "Traffic Backer" and hooked it up to
the taillights (actually to the brake lights, as directed) on my '92
Nissan Pathfinder. This device alternately flashes the red brake lights
and white reverse lights. Now, this is a device "designed for this
function" but I did have a problem! As I criused on down the road with
my Traffic Backer on, it applied the brakes, ever so slightly, each time
the red lights cycled! I sensed a minor lurching as a went down the
road. I believe we did confuse HAL. I stopped using it enroute, and
just used it on scene. (let's not get into why it was on enroute).
Thank Master MedControl that it didn't cycle me into reverse in sync
with the white lights! Oh, for the days of my dad's '68 Chevy Impala.
No computers, a carburator, and countless hours standing in freezing
cold handing may dad tools as he worked on it every weekend!
Chris
Shawn C. Robak
Chris Bonin (cbo...@mitre.org) scribbled in misc.emerg-services:
:>Just my $.02: I bought the Gall's "Traffic Backer" and hooked it up to
:>the taillights (actually to the brake lights, as directed) on my '92
:>Nissan Pathfinder. This device alternately flashes the red brake lights
:>and white reverse lights. Now, this is a device "designed for this
:>function" but I did have a problem! As I criused on down the road with
:>my Traffic Backer on, it applied the brakes, ever so slightly, each time
:>the red lights cycled!
This is because in the early 90's, Nissan did something stupid with integrating
the lights and the braking system. After several complaints, and shorts, and
whatnot, they decided two years later to stop doing that. Ford used to have
the brake lights wired into the automatic transmission on their vehicles in the
mid 80's, and stopped that practice as well (they would kick down out of
overdrive)
The best thing to do with a POV and such lighting systems is to mount
additional lights on you deck or bumper, and NOT use the lights that are on the
vehicle.
--
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user, send your reply to: Xsr...@indiana.eduX, less the X's.
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Scott
Yes.....all newer vehicals with on board computers you must consult an
owners manual or a dealerships service center before add-on wiring. All
most everything electrical on cars now-a-days are linked to the 'puter and
can really cause some trouble with engine performance or brake performance.
Alot of new cars will put a "power-point" in the dash to hook add-on wiring
to that will not go throught the 'puter.If not consult someone or the
vehical can really become confused and in this confusing world the last
thing we need is a car that is confused!!!! Just be careful what wire is
being cut into when doing a wire tap.
Scott
Chris Bonin <cbo...@mitre.org> wrote in article
<3396E8...@mitre.org>...
> Snoopy 1 wrote:
> >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >We hooked up a tail light flasher to our '97 GMC pick-up this year.
We
> > >found out that the only device you should use is a device designed for
> > >this function.
> > >
> > >After conversation with a GM Engineer friend of mine I found out that
> > >the cars (for over the last 10 years or so) have been deigned to
> > >controll the engine and transmission, while watching these funstions
> > >they also watch the taillights; this is so that the computer can
> > >anticipate future demands on the car. If an off the shelf headlight
> > >flasher is used on the taillights it can confuse and the computer and
> > >possibly damage the car.
> > >
> > >The new high tech taillight flashers take the computer into
> > >consideration and they make the computer see that taillights are
> > >operating in a normal function.
> > >
> > >I recommend that you use a device designed for this function.
> > >
>
> Just my $.02: I bought the Gall's "Traffic Backer" and hooked it up to
> the taillights (actually to the brake lights, as directed) on my '92
> Nissan Pathfinder. This device alternately flashes the red brake lights
> and white reverse lights. Now, this is a device "designed for this
> function" but I did have a problem! As I criused on down the road with
> my Traffic Backer on, it applied the brakes, ever so slightly, each time
Jon
In article <5n9j94$51n$1...@dismay.ucs.indiana.edu>,
REMOVEsro...@ucs.indiana.edu (Shawn C. Robak) wrote:
>The best thing to do with a POV and such lighting systems is to mount
>additional lights on you deck or bumper, and NOT use the lights that are on the
>vehicle.
>
Unless you do it the right way and use a system that does not just 'attach' to
the existing wires, but rather requires complete cuts of the original wires.
If the wires are cut during 'wig-wag' mode, the computer won't get the wrong
signals and won't mess things up.
This will work if you do it this way with any vehicle. The worst that could
happen is you would get an alert that says your taillights are not working (if
your vehicle is equipped with such a warning option).
Denis Mcmahon
Hi hots...@CLT.MINDSPRING.COM!
Sunday June 01 1997 05:07, hots...@CLT.MINDSPRING.COM wrote to All:
h> FINALLY, someone remembered the umbiquous diode.
I actually use a different set-up to flash back-up and fog lights together.
Note - this uses a two pole change-over switch, a heavy duty (four-way / hazard light) flasher can and a separate warning light. No diodes needed.
+-------------> Fog Lights
|
[ | ]--switch (# = contacts)
[ c#1 ]
[ /, ]
Fog Light Feed <-----[-# ! #-]-+ +----[lamp]---+
[a1 ! b1] | | |
[ ! ] +--+--[Flasher]--+--[fuse]--> Batt 12v
[a2 ! b2] | x
Reverse Light Feed <-[-# ! #-]-+
[ \' ]
[ c#2 ]
[ | ]
|
+-------------> Reverse Lights
OK, switch position a is normal, a1-c1, a2-c2, fog and reverse lights fed normally. Switch in position b is hazard, b1-c1, b2-c2, flashes 4 * 21 watts (2 red, 2 white) at vehicle rear and leaves brake lights and indicators running normally. When circuit is operating, lamp lights when rear flashers are off. Lamp is a normal dash warning light, say about 1.2 watts. This is the way a lot of hazard lights work, except that they cut the left and right indicator (turn light) circuits instead of the fog and reverse lamp circuits.
If you have a really heavy duty flasher can and a five-way change-over switch, you can extend this circuit to brake and turn lights, or do this from position "x" in the diagram:
x <------------------[relay coil]------------> GND
!
12v (via fuse) ----[relay contacts]------|>|---+
|
Brake Light feed < ------------|>|-------------+-------> Brake Lights
As before, -|>|- is a diode.
Each relay can add-in any single circuit, eg left-turn, right turn, brake etc. Depending where you tap the turn-light supply, you can just include the rears, or both lights on each side. You could even build two circuits up like this, one to flash "all front" and one to flash "all rear" so regardless of your approach direction you just stop-n-flash. eg:
Approach from other side, cross centreline, flash front:
_________________________
##### /-[]<
/
----------------/
_________________________
(##### = accident / incident / whatever)
Approach from same side, flash rear:
_________________________
##### []<-----
_________________________
h> another who uses only 1 "n" in his name
And doesn't the world have a problem with it.
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