locating a storm drain pipe
Jonathan Eagle
A storm drain pipe runs across part of my property.
As it would be located near a possible house addition,
I would like to locate it, precisely . It is on some building
dept maps, and was installed around 60 years ago. This is
why I know that it exists. I know the approximate location.
I imagine that it is a concrete pipe about 12 inches in diameter.
I also imagine that it is 4-6 feet down. Does anyone know how I
could locate the pipe, within a reasonable degree of accuracy,
without digging. (within +-2feet).
Thanks
Jonathan eagle
--
-----------------------------------------------------
Jonathan Eagle
jonatha...@analog.com
(617)461-3095
Analog Devices DSP group, 3 Technology Way, Norwood, MA
ea...@mrbig.analog.com
Don Sterner
In article <r34ohkn...@mrbig.spd.analog.com>, ea...@mrbig.analog.com
says...
>
>A storm drain pipe runs across part of my property.
>As it would be located near a possible house addition,
>I would like to locate it, precisely . It is on some building
>dept maps, and was installed around 60 years ago. This is
>why I know that it exists. I know the approximate location.
>I imagine that it is a concrete pipe about 12 inches in diameter.
>I also imagine that it is 4-6 feet down. Does anyone know how I
>could locate the pipe, within a reasonable degree of accuracy,
>without digging. (within +-2feet).
I was recently surprised while watching our sewer department do
a new connection. They used a bent metal coat hanger as a devining
rod. The thing turned in his hand along one specific line. He
staked out the line and brought in the digger. Right on the money!
That was plastic sewer pipe and was buried about 5-6' down.
Joan Ellis
N...@junk.email (Don Sterner) wrote:
This is one method of water-witching or dowsing. In this particular
method, you usually use two pieces of wire (straightened coat hangers
or baling wire). Bend each piece at a right angle about 4 or 5 inches
from one end. Then hold the short ends of the wire, one in each hand,
with the long ends sticking out straight in front of you. Walk slowly
in the area where you are looking for water. When you cross running
water, the the two wires should turn and cross each other in front of
you. But this will only work for people who possess the talent.
No flames, please. I'm only repeating what I have heard. (I hate to
admit this, but I have tried it and it does seem to work sometimes.
Only in my case, the wires turn backward and cross behind me. Go
figure.)
Joan
Jonathan Johnson
Joan Ellis wrote:
>
> N...@junk.email (Don Sterner) wrote:
>
> >In article <r34ohkn...@mrbig.spd.analog.com>, ea...@mrbig.analog.com
> >says...
> >>
> >>A storm drain pipe runs across part of my property.
> >>As it would be located near a possible house addition,
> >>I would like to locate it, precisely . It is on some building
>
> >a new connection. They used a bent metal coat hanger as a devining
> >rod. The thing turned in his hand along one specific line. He
> >staked out the line and brought in the digger. Right on the money!
> This is one method of water-witching or dowsing. In this particular
> method, you usually use two pieces of wire (straightened coat hangers
> or baling wire). Bend each piece at a right angle about 4 or 5 inches
All very interesting. Here's another thought (if divining doesn't
work):
The utility companies use a high-tech device to locate pipes and wires.
One part clamps over the wire or pipe (it must be continuous metal) and
induces a signal in the wire/pipe. Another device is carried over the
ground and picks up that signal.
Now _you_ don't have any metal in your pipe. Problem. Solution? Fish a
wire into the storm drain pipe (I'll let you figure out how...you're
smart). Rent the locator equipment to trace the wire....where the wire
is, the pipe is.
Another method:
Run water through the pipe. Use a sonic detector to listen for moving
water. (This is what water departments used before inductive locators,
as mentioned above).
--
--Jonathan Johnson
mailto:sk...@owt.com
http://www.owt.com/users/skipj/
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jo...@ix.netcom.com
N...@junk.email (Don Sterner) wrote:
>In article <r34ohkn...@mrbig.spd.analog.com>,
ea...@mrbig.analog.com
>says...
>>
>>A storm drain pipe runs across part of my property.
>>As it would be located near a possible house addition,
>>I would like to locate it, precisely . It is on some building
>>dept maps, and was installed around 60 years ago. This is
>>why I know that it exists. I know the approximate location.
>>I imagine that it is a concrete pipe about 12 inches in diameter.
>>I also imagine that it is 4-6 feet down. Does anyone know how I
>>could locate the pipe, within a reasonable degree of accuracy,
>>without digging. (within +-2feet).
>I was recently surprised while watching our sewer department do
>a new connection. They used a bent metal coat hanger as a devining
>rod. The thing turned in his hand along one specific line. He
>staked out the line and brought in the digger. Right on the money!
>That was plastic sewer pipe and was buried about 5-6' down.
This is one method of water-witching or dowsing. In this particular
method, you usually use two pieces of wire (straightened coat hangers
or baling wire). Bend each piece at a right angle about 4 or 5 inches
sk...@oneworld.owt.com
Joan Ellis wrote:
>
> N...@junk.email (Don Sterner) wrote:
>
> >In article <r34ohkn...@mrbig.spd.analog.com>,
ea...@mrbig.analog.com
> >says...
> >>
> >>A storm drain pipe runs across part of my property.
> >>As it would be located near a possible house addition,
> >>I would like to locate it, precisely . It is on some building
>
> >a new connection. They used a bent metal coat hanger as a devining
> >rod. The thing turned in his hand along one specific line. He
> >staked out the line and brought in the digger. Right on the money!
> This is one method of water-witching or dowsing. In this particular
> method, you usually use two pieces of wire (straightened coat hangers
> or baling wire). Bend each piece at a right angle about 4 or 5 inches
All very interesting. Here's another thought (if divining doesn't
Jim
Call your local utility company, and see whether they have a
"one call" number for locating buried utilities. They may have
the pipe accurately mapped, or may be able to locate it for you.
Failing at this, if the drain is short enough, you could try pushing
a 1/4" metal cable up the drain, and locating it with a deep-search
metal detector. Some (but not all) concrete drain pipe is made with
a steel reinforcing mesh, and this alone might be enough to spot the
pipe. If it's a clay pipe (commonly used 60 years ago) you won't see
any mesh but you'd find your cable....
If you know the drain is unobstructed and dry, you could attach a
car horn to a radio-controlled car and (with a tether on the car
to retrieve it) run the car up the drain. Blow the horn and you'll be
able to hear it above ground; the length of the tether will tell you
approximately how far the car is from the entrance. This should locate
within a few feet. And you can brag to your friends that you used a
Remotely Operated Vehicle (ROV) to locate the pipe using sonic
methodologies, and you learned how on the internet.
Finally, if you simply HAD to dig, you could try a slit trench across
the likeliest path of the drain. You will see the original undisturbed
earth, as well as the backfill over the drain, at a depth of 6 to 18
inches. Unless, of course, the area has been extensivcely filled --
and in that case you'll need a foundation engineer to review the
plans for your addition to avoid any subsidence problems later.
Mike Morris
In article <msg29009....@pol.org> ea...@mrbig.analog.com writes:
>From: ea...@mrbig.analog.com
>Subject: locating a storm drain pipe
>Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 14:00:41 -0500
>A storm drain pipe runs across part of my property.
>As it would be located near a possible house addition,
>I would like to locate it, precisely . It is on some building
>dept maps, and was installed around 60 years ago. This is
>why I know that it exists. I know the approximate location.
>I imagine that it is a concrete pipe about 12 inches in diameter.
>I also imagine that it is 4-6 feet down. Does anyone know how I
>could locate the pipe, within a reasonable degree of accuracy,
>without digging. (within +-2feet).
>Thanks
>Jonathan eagle
>--
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Jonathan Eagle
>jonatha...@analog.com
>(617)461-3095
>Analog Devices DSP group, 3 Technology Way, Norwood, MA
Is it cast iron or clay? If it's cast iron there is probably enough
mass there to be locatable with a good metal detector. If you have
a lapidary shop in your area a 3x5 card on their bulletin board
offering $20 might get somebody who wants to spend a half hour
with you. Have a few stakes and some twine, or some football
field chalk handy to mark the line.
I have no idea how to locate a clay pipe.
Here in southern california there is a free service provided by
an association of utility organizations that advertises in the
front of the phone books with a full page ad that starts "BEFORE
YOU DIG". Anybody can call them and within a week everybody
appropriate is notified and comes out and marks their stuff.
This service is basically a few telephone operators and a
few computers - funded by the utility companies chipping into a
support fund. They figure it's cheaper than fixing dug-up lines.
This is a handy thing since there is a hodge-podge of jurisdictions
around here and as an example folks on opposite sides of a street
can be on different water companies...
I had to replace the water line from the next-to-the-curb
meter to the house a few years ago and one call got the water
folk (city), the gas dept (county), telco (Specific Hell, oops
Pacific Bell), sewer (city), cable tv (TCI), and So Cal Edison out.
Now mind you, Edison, telco and cable tv came off of a pole in my back yard-
they still sent out crews (I found doorknob hanger cards when I got home).
Maybe they have something like that in your area - I'd check the phone
book or call the local sewer folks and ask.