basement window too close to ground
Henry
I have a 3 foot wide basement window that is only one inch above
grade. Since we get a fair amount of rain and snow here, I wonder what
is the best strategy to prevent water from entering the basement
throught this window.
The window was created by the previous owner of the house by widening
a smaller window. Since the new openning was cut out by concrete saw,
I figure there is a good chance that a hair line crack might develop
sometime down the road.
The grading around is okay, ie. water runs away with no problem.
I was suggest by a friend to pour a concrete pad a few feet wide right
in front of the window. Will this work ? Or should I create a window
well instead ?
Appreciate if someone can give me some suggestions.
JD
"Henry" <bach...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:5673c667.03101...@posting.google.com...
I agree, 1" isn't enough.
I think pouring a concrete strip could make it worse by creating more splash
up.
Since the drainage is OK now, then I guess you're worried about the imagined
crack -- There is no way a concrete saw is going to crack a solid wall. But
if you're worried, clear the soil from that area, clean the wall and apply a
sealant. Backfill with crushed rock.
John_B
> Hi,
>
> I have a 3 foot wide basement window that is only one inch above
> grade. Since we get a fair amount of rain and snow here, I wonder what
> is the best strategy to prevent water from entering the basement
>
> The window was created by the previous owner of the house by widening
> I figure there is a good chance that a hair line crack might develop
> sometime down the road.
>
> The grading around is okay, ie. water runs away with no problem.
>
> I was suggest by a friend to pour a concrete pad a few feet wide right
> in front of the window. Will this work ? Or should I create a window
> well instead ?
>
> Appreciate if someone can give me some suggestions.
My basement windows are below grade, They are protected by semi
circular "window wells" made of zinc plated corrugated steel. This
would act as a "dam" to keep out some of the water, but there would
be leakage where the steel meets the foundation unless you caulk
liberally
Michael Baugh
8" glass blocks.
Improved the security of the house, allowed me to get
more positive slope away from the wall. Waterproofed
the concrete I used to fill the other 24", then banked dirt
to within 6" of the bottom of the glass blocks.
Henry <bach...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:5673c667.03101...@posting.google.com...
Henry
question.
Yes, I am a bit worry about a possible hair line crack in the future
because there are cracks on the foundation of all my neighbours house,
even those without a modified window. The houses are all built by the
same builder so I am quite sure I will get one sometime down the road.
One of you mentioned sealing the outside of the foundation and then
backfill with gravel. I wonder :
1. should I use something like roof tar to seal the wall ?
2. should I dig all the way down to the drain tile and then fill with
gravel ?
I am actually interested to know how gravel would help the
situation... don't gravels with some much gaps among pieces tends to
pool water ? What are they better than dirt which actually repels
water after it becomes saturated ?
"JD" <da...@worldwidepants.com> wrote in message news:<lUFjb.1037$Xe2...@newssvr25.news.prodigy.com>...
JD
> question.
> Yes, I am a bit worry about a possible hair line crack in the future
> because there are cracks on the foundation of all my neighbours house,
> even those without a modified window. The houses are all built by the
> same builder so I am quite sure I will get one sometime down the road.
> One of you mentioned sealing the outside of the foundation and then
> backfill with gravel. I wonder :
>
> 1. should I use something like roof tar to seal the wall ?
>
> 2. should I dig all the way down to the drain tile and then fill with
> gravel ?
> I am actually interested to know how gravel would help the
> situation... don't gravels with some much gaps among pieces tends to
> pool water ? What are they better than dirt which actually repels
> water after it becomes saturated ?
Henry,
You can get some good advice (perhaps more than you'd ever want) at
alt.building.construction.
As for the sealant, one brand, your namesake in fact, should have a product
that's right for you.
Bob Bowles
used to seal the interior of several redwood planters recently.
On Sat, 18 Oct 2003 10:17:18 GMT, "JD" <da...@worldwidepants.com>
wrote:
v
>My basement windows are below grade, They are protected by semi
>circular "window wells" made of zinc plated corrugated steel. This
>would act as a "dam" to keep out some of the water, but there would
>be leakage where the steel meets the foundation unless you caulk
>liberally
>
Misunderstanding of the function of a normal window well?
The bottom of the well must be able to drain down (that's why you put
gravel) any surface (or precipitation) water that gets in. You use
grading to limit the surface water to an amount that can be handled
(as little as possible). "Damming" around the perimeter won't help if
the ground is actually saturated because then the water would just
rise upwards from the ground below. OTOH sealed damming with caulk
would not be needed if the grading was good and the ground well
drained. If it isn't well drained all the caulk in the world won't
help.
Saturated dirt will not "repel" water. If the dirt on the bottom of
the well is saturated, the water level will rise above its surface and
flood into the window. Gravel is to allow water to FLOW (away). If
there is no place for it to flow to (because of saturation) then using
dirt instead won't help.
-v.
Sammikay
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/36xm
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