Piping an air compressor for home DIY?
Kirk
I intend to install a simple piping system for an air compressor for
my DIY mechanical auto work (impact wrench, etc) and remodeling
projects (framing nailer, etc). I'll put the compressor in the
garage, but I'd like to be able to run a line with a couple of outlets
in the attached garage and then into my basement craft room.
I'm looking at 1-inch soldered copper tubing for the materials. But
I'm not seeing any readily available couplers to connect the tubing
with the air couplers.
How are other people doing this? Any other tips or pitfalls to watch
out for?
--
Kirk
"Leap boldly. You can't cross a chasm in two easy steps."--RAH
<I really am at home if you want to reply by e-mail>
Speedy Jim
IMHO, 1" Cu is *way* overkill.
1/2" will be plenty big, but go to 3/4" if you feel the need.
In either size you can readily find both male and female adapters
to convert to pipe thread. May need a threaded bushing to go from,
say, 1/2" pipe thread to 1/4" on the coupler.
Jim
Nathan Nagel
I personally would feel a little better using cast iron or galvanized
steel rather than copper for air lines, I know people do it but copper
work hardens over time and becomes brittle, not good...
nate
Mike72903
either should be plenty big. Just use common pipe fittings and/or adapters to
get to your hose fittings.
RM
>I personally would feel a little better using cast iron or galvanized
>steel rather than copper for air lines, I know people do it but copper
>work hardens over time and becomes brittle, not good...
>
>nate
yes, but unless he's running some unreasonable amount of pressure,
1/2" copper will work fine (rated to 330psi, as i recall).
plus it's easier to get a leak-free sweated fitting versus a threaded
one, in my experience.
I had this discussion about 20 years ago with a Master-plumber who had
an air compressor installed in his home garage..he used 1/2 copper
Kirk
mike...@aol.com says...
> Rather than copper I would use black iron or galvanized pipe. 1/2 inch in
> either should be plenty big. Just use common pipe fittings and/or adapters to
> get to your hose fittings.
>
I've heard on one hand that condensed moisture will cause rust
problems in iron and that compressed air will eventually cause flaking
problems in galvanized. Is there no perfection in the world? <g>
--
Kirk
Experience is the best teacher...
But her pop quizzes can be mighty tough.
bobby
basement,,,,, you may need to put a tank in the basement as a storage vessel.
Can't give any details on what is important but a neighbor did something
similar (compressor in detached workshop and put line in garage for air tools)
and he couldn't get enough flow to run the impact. He added a small tank in
the garage (looked like the portable air tank you can buy) and that fixed the
problem. Depending on what you are running in the basement, if it doesn't get
enough flow, you may try adding such a tank.
bobby
Bruce Rowen
More important is the strength of the solder joints.
See http://www.copper.org/tubehdbk/tables/table6.html
for some info and note the max pressure drop off as working
temp increases. This temperature effect is especially critical
on PVC pipe.
For a simple home system with unprotected lines under 100 psi,
copper is ok.
-Bruce
Michael Bruss
: I intend to install a simple piping system for an air compressor for
: my DIY mechanical auto work (impact wrench, etc) and remodeling
: projects (framing nailer, etc). I'll put the compressor in the
: garage, but I'd like to be able to run a line with a couple of outlets
: in the attached garage and then into my basement craft room.
: I'm looking at 1-inch soldered copper tubing for the materials. But
: I'm not seeing any readily available couplers to connect the tubing
: with the air couplers.
: How are other people doing this? Any other tips or pitfalls to watch
: out for?
1/2" copper should be plenty big enough for the jobs you mention. You can
get thread adapters that will solder on to the copper pipe and then use
brass fittings for air valves and quick connects.
BTW, do not even consider using PVC or any other rigid plastic water pipe.
If they give way, they may do it explosively, producing lots of shrapnel.
Mike
Bob
out of the air. I have about 50 feet of 1/2 inch galvanized pipe with no
supply volume problems. I routinely run tools through 150 ft of 3/8 hose,
again with no problems. YMMV, depending on tool requirements and supply
pressure.
Bob
"Kirk" <kirkdarlin...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.157df3891...@news.mindspring.com...
Rick
due to a stuck pressure switch) in a closed basement, what would happen? Or
in a garage?
Rick
"Michael Bruss" <fzb...@sandman.ucdavis.edu> wrote in message
news:9f32g0$66e$1...@woodrow.ucdavis.edu...
Kirk
says...
> More important is the strength of the solder joints.
> See http://www.copper.org/tubehdbk/tables/table6.html
> for some info and note the max pressure drop off as working
> temp increases. This temperature effect is especially critical
> on PVC pipe.
> For a simple home system with unprotected lines under 100 psi,
> copper is ok.
>
>
Hmm. I expect to be running 125psi.
Kirk
ric...@gohome.com says...
> Speaking of explosions, how does a tank fail? If it failed abruptly (perhaps
> due to a stuck pressure switch) in a closed basement, what would happen? Or
> in a garage?
>
My understanding is that it will tend to split rather than shatter (or
pop off a weak section, like a fitting). Might still be painful for
someone leaning against it, but it shouldn't send shrapnel around the
room.
py...@texas.next
Personally, I would NEVER use soldered copper pipe for high pressure
air. I have seen solder joints come apart over time due to
continual expansion/contraction. For copper, I prefer soft copper
with either flare or compression fittings.
What ever pipe you use, make sure you have one or more purgeable
moisture traps in the system.
Bruce Rowen
Solder with the tin/animony solder. This is commonly sold as
lead-free solder and is standard for waterline plumbing today.
Get the matching flux as well.
Spend the extra and get the thick wall tube (type "L" I believe)
and mount your tubes so they can expand slightly in length as they
fill/empty.
Also use flexible hose between the compressor and main line to prevent
vibration transfer.
-Bruce
Werehatrack [Russ Ault]
>
>I intend to install a simple piping system for an air compressor for
>my DIY mechanical auto work (impact wrench, etc) and remodeling
>projects (framing nailer, etc). I'll put the compressor in the
>garage, but I'd like to be able to run a line with a couple of outlets
>in the attached garage and then into my basement craft room.
>
>I'm looking at 1-inch soldered copper tubing for the materials. But
>I'm not seeing any readily available couplers to connect the tubing
>with the air couplers.
>
>How are other people doing this? Any other tips or pitfalls to watch
>out for?
The last person I saw trying to use soldered copper for this purpose
regretted it. Too much vibration, and too much strain on the end
fittings; they kept getting snapped off. Of course, he made a big
mistake in trying to hook the compressor to the pipes without a flex
hose, which is a mistake in my opinion. That said, it *should* be
possible, using sweat-to-thread adapters and with proper bracing and
the use of short iron nipples that are securely mounted to something
as the end points. Air chucks with 1/4" male or female pipe thread
are easy to get, even at Home Depot or Lowe's; get the guy in plumbing
to fix you up with the adapters you need. One Big Hint: use a
flexible hose as the connector from the compressor to the pipes; this
will greatly reduce the oh-sh*t factor later on. Figure out what the
length and the connector thread needs to be, and have the hose made at
a hydraulic shop.
--
My email address is spamblocked. Remove SnowFromDriveway to reply
Ray J
question but wanted to install something like this...)
I think I'm going to get some refigeration copper tubing and make a
"U" shaped track around the roof of my garage. Put in about 6
"drops" with threaded connectors and use either another solid piece
to run it to the work area or a short "whip" hose with quick connects
on it. Use one of those to connect to the compressor in the corner.
Install a moisture trap at the far end, and voila! Compressed air
everywhere.
Ray
--
Irreverent hardware reviews and other fun stuff -> http://www.yaktam.com
Neon John
"Werehatrack [Russ Ault]" wrote:
>
> Kirk <kirkdarlin...@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
> >
> >I intend to install a simple piping system for an air compressor for
> >my DIY mechanical auto work (impact wrench, etc) and remodeling
> >projects (framing nailer, etc). I'll put the compressor in the
> >garage, but I'd like to be able to run a line with a couple of outlets
> >in the attached garage and then into my basement craft room.
> >
> >I'm looking at 1-inch soldered copper tubing for the materials. But
> >I'm not seeing any readily available couplers to connect the tubing
> >with the air couplers.
1" is overkill. 3/4" trunks and 1/2" for spurs is more than
enough. You can get the copper sweat-to-1/2" NPT female fitting
anywhere they sell copper fittings. Either get a 1/2" to 1/4" NPT
bushing for each coupler or get couplers with 1/2" NPT male
nipples. I install a 1/2" ball valve on each coupler so I can
isolate the coupler in case it leaks and depressurize a hose without
having to uncouple it.
If this isn't clear, drop me a note and I'll email you a photo.
Forget the lead-free solder. You get one shot at getting it right.
If you don't, you get to take the joint apart, clean it and try
again. Conventional 50-50 works great with acid flux and is very
forgiving - important when you're reaching out as far as you can to
get to that laasst joint. :-)
> >
> >How are other people doing this? Any other tips or pitfalls to watch
> >out for?
Support the tubing well to prevent it from vibrating - very
annoying. Put a block valve on each coupling. Include trash legs
on trunk line vertical runs. Include a water drain cock on the
trash leg. Helps keep crap and water out of your tools. Where
possible, slope the lines back toward the compressor or the nearest
trash leg. This helps keep condensation out of your tools. Install
a good moisture dryer/coalescer at the compressor tank to keep
moisture and oil out of the lines. Do a full bore blowdown on each
line before putting it in service to blow out metal chips, trash,
etc. Remove the coupler and crack the ball valve fully to do this.
If possible, flush the lines with soap and water before putting it
in service to get corrosive flux residue out of the lines.
DO NOT USE PVC WATER PIPE FOR AIR! It is not designed for stored
energy (compressed gas) service and is not resistant to the oil that
is almost always in the air. When the tube pipe fails, shrapnel is
propelled with enough force to injure or blind. Circle Track
magazine did a feature on this a few years back where they showed
photos of catastrophic pipe failure and some injuries that
resulted. Special thick wall high pressure PVC tubing rated for
compressed gas is available but it is as expensive as copper and
still less sturdy.
>
> The last person I saw trying to use soldered copper for this purpose
> regretted it. Too much vibration, and too much strain on the end
> fittings; they kept getting snapped off. Of course, he made a big
> mistake in trying to hook the compressor to the pipes without a flex
> hose, which is a mistake in my opinion.
Obviously it wasn't the copper tubing, it was the idiot
installation. I've had copper tube air plumbing in my shops for
probably 20 years and have moved the same tubing to several shops as
I've moved. I hook the trunk to my 5 hp compressor using corrugated
copper flex water heater line. No vibration and no leaks. This
flex tubing is designed to thread directly to 3/4" NPT male pipe.
John
--
John De Armond
johngdDO...@bellsouth.net
http://personal.bellsouth.net/~johngd/
Cleveland, occupied TN
Charles A Davis
>
> Thanks all! (following the thread even though I didn't ask the
> question but wanted to install something like this...)
>
> I think I'm going to get some refigeration copper tubing and make a
> "U" shaped track around the roof of my garage. Put in about 6
> "drops" with threaded connectors and use either another solid piece
> to run it to the work area or a short "whip" hose with quick connects
> on it. Use one of those to connect to the compressor in the corner.
> Install a moisture trap at the far end,
Whoops!!!! Bad location for the moisture trap.
What you want ( to trap the moisture BEFORE it can get at anything
important), is to have a few feet of 'pipe / metal tubing' connected to
the compressor via a 'flex' hose, to give the 'compressed air' a chance
to cool, then the moisture trap, then the rest of your piping. (Any 'air
tank' should be between the compressor and the moisture trap.)
JMNSHO
Chuck D.
--
-----------------------------------------------------------
He, who will not reason, is a bigot; William Drumond,
he, who cannot, is a fool; Scottish writer
and he, who dares not, is a slave. (1585-1649)
While he that does, is a free man! Joseph P. 1955-
-----------------------------------------------------------
Chuck Davis / Sutherlin Industries FAX # out of service
1973 Reeves Mill Road E-Mail -- c...@sutherlin-va.com
Sutherlin, Virginia 24594-3819 Voice # (804) 799-5803
ray
>
> What you want ( to trap the moisture BEFORE it can get at anything
> important), is to have a few feet of 'pipe / metal tubing' connected to
> the compressor via a 'flex' hose, to give the 'compressed air' a chance
> to cool, then the moisture trap, then the rest of your piping. (Any 'air
> tank' should be between the compressor and the moisture trap.)
>
> JMNSHO
> Chuck D.
>
tripping over the hoses in the garage. Appreciate the insight. :)
Ray
Kirk
Greg
"Rick" <ric...@gohome.com> wrote in message
news:3FgR6.15658$lP5.8...@news1.rdc2.pa.home.com...
> Speaking of explosions, how does a tank fail? If it failed abruptly
(perhaps
> due to a stuck pressure switch) in a closed basement, what would happen?
Or
> in a garage?
> Rick
A compressor tank blew up at a vo-tech near here a few years ago. They
figured it was a bad pressure switch combined with a bad relief. The
compressor was on the second floor in a low ceiling storage room. It blew
out the concrete block wall, the floor, and a part of the roof! Luckily it
happened at night so no one was around.
Check those relief valves!!
Greg
db...@sprynet.com
simllar to galvanized water pipe, i think it was 1/4 inch pipe? did not
see any of this small pipe in hardware store lately, only the small
fittings, if they still have it they might keep it out back. if you
gonna run some under ground to a detached garage, just paint it with
a can of spay on auto body under coating so the pipe dont rust under the
earth that you lay in it.
hope this helps.
Paul Hovnanian
>
> Speaking of explosions, how does a tank fail? If it failed abruptly (perhaps
> due to a stuck pressure switch) in a closed basement, what would happen? Or
> in a garage?
> Rick
I imagine that your installation will include some sort of relief valve
to
prevent an over pressure condition like this from occurring.
Ifvthe tank fails, It will probably split a seam. I'd worry more about
various
fittings taking off like missles, but with the proper safety
considerations,
this should be a very unlikely possibility.
--
Paul Hovnanian mailto:Pa...@Hovnanian.com
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