Milwaulee Rt. Angle Drill Vs Hole Hawg (sp)
Shailesh Potnis
I am planning to do some electrical and plumbing work in my
basement. I am thinking about Milwaukee right angle drill or
their hole hawg (sp).
I am also open to a right angle adapter for a regular drill.
What are the pros and cons of each?
Thanks
Shailesh
dtar...@ersi.com
Go with the kit that includes the D-handle 1/2" drill plus the
right-angle adapter head.
The Hole Hawg is a monster, and probably overkill for work in a single
basement. The standard 1/2" Hole shooter works well, comes with a side
handle, and with a short auger bit can do all your electrical and much
of the plumbing, but there may be corners you can't hit, and you'll have
to work up close to the ceiling. The best compromise is the D-handle with
the right-angle nose, and you can always remove it for a regular drill
when needed.
Make sure you know what you're doing with regard to drilling large holes
in your house structure! In general, keep the holes as small as possible,
and keep them in the center of the timber. NEVER notch the top or bottom
of a joist more than a foot from each end...
And be careful with Milwaukee powerful 1/2" drills! If something stops
the bit, the drill itself will begin turning, and take you with it, so make
sure the auxiliary handle will hit something rigid before you do, and make
extra sure any body parts won't be between the rigid item and the handle.
Use Irwin power augers for holes up to 1.5", they come short or long and have
a hex shaft. Use Milwaukee hole bits for larger holes - they have removable
leadscrews, in fine and course pitches, and very large teeth around the
perimeter - they're available in sets up to 5" or so or individually, about
$30 each.
-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own
Bob Hanna
awkward to use. They are probably your cheapest option, though.
I have used the Milwaukee Hole Hawg a good bit, and frankly, it
makes me nervous. This drill produces enormous torque,
particularly at the low speed. The low speed turns the bit at
300 rpm. If the bit jams, the drill turns at 300 rpm! If your
arm is in the way, it will break your arm, and if your head is in
the way, it can kill you. Note also that when drilling joists,
the presence of pipes and ducts frequently means drilling in
spaces too tight to use the side (pipe) handle. The short
housing of the Hole Hawg gives you very little leverage in
controlling the drill.
My favorite right-angle drill is the Black&Decker Timberwolf/
DeWalt DW124. It has a clutch that will release the torque on
the bit if the bit jams. Its housing is also much longer than
that of the Hole Hawg, which makes it much easier to control.
Its only disadvantage is that it is *loud*. It sounds more like
a router than a drill.
What ever kind of drill you get, be careful. For small holes (up
to 1"), use ship auger bits, which can cut through the occasional
nail without jamming. For large holes, do not use self-feed bits
unless you are *sure* there is no possibility of hitting a nail.
Self-feed bits will jam on a nail and will be severely damaged as
well (they are expensive). Instead, use a hole saw anywhere
there is *any* possibility of hitting a nail.
In article <WBac2.141$_52.51...@alpha.sky.net>, Shailesh Potnis
<spo...@sky.net> wrote:
>Hi Fellow woodworkers:
>
>I am planning to do some electrical and plumbing work in my
>basement. I am thinking about Milwaukee right angle drill or
>their hole hawg (sp).
>
>I am also open to a right angle adapter for a regular drill.
>
>What are the pros and cons of each?
>
>Thanks
>
>Shailesh
John Eric Schafer
>
> In article <WBac2.141$_52.51...@alpha.sky.net>,
> Shailesh Potnis <spo...@sky.net> wrote:
> > Hi Fellow woodworkers:
> >
> > I am planning to do some electrical and plumbing work in my
> > basement. I am thinking about Milwaukee right angle drill or
> > their hole hawg (sp).
> >
> > I am also open to a right angle adapter for a regular drill.
> >
> > What are the pros and cons of each?
> >
>
> right-angle adapter head.
(good information snipped)
> Use Milwaukee hole bits for larger holes - they have removable
> leadscrews, in fine and course pitches, and very large teeth around the
> perimeter - they're available in sets up to 5" or so or individually, about
> $30 each.
I hope you're talking about hole saws, not selfeed bits. Here are
prices for selfeed bits
from the 1998 Tools On Sale Catalog:
2.25" bit (for 1.5" pipes) $48.30
3" bit (for 2.5" pipes) $116.55
3.625" bit (for 3" pipes) $160.75
4.625" bit (for 4" pipes) $193.35
Yes, these are prices for just the bits. The only drills recommended to
drive the last three
are Hole Hawgs or equivalent (if there is such a beast). Holesaws will
work. They're just
slower and your depth is limited by the depth of the holesaw. Makes it
tough to bore a hole
through a triple 2X.
Brian J. McCarthy
Right angle drill and not the hole hawg.
I have the right angle drill - but have used the hole-Hawg - its
MUCH heaver than the RAD is - so if you use it a lot - you will be
VERY sore by the end of the day.
I have used a 4" hole saw on my RAD many times.
I use 18" long NailEater 1" bits for running RX/BX lines through
wood.
Again, the other post mentioning things like the kick of the drill
if it catches something, and knowing what's the limit on drilling
holes is important.
Have fun - I've had my RAD for 14 years - its NEVER let me down.
--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian J. McCarthy | mailto:mcca...@zko.dec.com
Compaq Computer Corp. Nashua, NH | DEC C++ Class Libraries
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
McNair, Ken (EXCHANGE:SKY:9F17)
>
> Hi Fellow woodworkers:
>
> I am planning to do some electrical and plumbing work in my
> basement. I am thinking about Milwaukee right angle drill or
> their hole hawg (sp).
>
> I am also open to a right angle adapter for a regular drill.
>
To finish ONE basement, RENT a right angle drill,
Only worth buying one if you are doing more than one job.
Richard Castleberry
dtar...@ersi.com wrote:
> In article <WBac2.141$_52.51...@alpha.sky.net>,
> Shailesh Potnis <spo...@sky.net> wrote:
> > Hi Fellow woodworkers:
> >
> > I am planning to do some electrical and plumbing work in my
> > basement. I am thinking about Milwaukee right angle drill or
> > their hole hawg (sp).
> >
> > I am also open to a right angle adapter for a regular drill.
> >
> > What are the pros and cons of each?
> >
>
> Go with the kit that includes the D-handle 1/2" drill plus the
> right-angle adapter head.
>
> The Hole Hawg is a monster, and probably overkill for work in a single
> basement. The standard 1/2" Hole shooter works well, comes with a side
> handle, and with a short auger bit can do all your electrical and much
> of the plumbing, but there may be corners you can't hit, and you'll have
> to work up close to the ceiling. The best compromise is the D-handle with
> the right-angle nose, and you can always remove it for a regular drill
> when needed.
>
> Make sure you know what you're doing with regard to drilling large holes
> in your house structure! In general, keep the holes as small as possible,
> and keep them in the center of the timber. NEVER notch the top or bottom
> of a joist more than a foot from each end...
>
> And be careful with Milwaukee powerful 1/2" drills! If something stops
> the bit, the drill itself will begin turning, and take you with it, so make
> sure the auxiliary handle will hit something rigid before you do, and make
> extra sure any body parts won't be between the rigid item and the handle.
>
> Use Irwin power augers for holes up to 1.5", they come short or long and have
> a hex shaft. Use Milwaukee hole bits for larger holes - they have removable
> leadscrews, in fine and course pitches, and very large teeth around the
> perimeter - they're available in sets up to 5" or so or individually, about
> $30 each.
>
> -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
> http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own
Wow, its great responses like that which really make these newsgroups
valuable! Thanks for taking the time to share what you have learned.
One small item...wear leather gloves.
Richard
Roy Smith
> Make sure you know what you're doing with regard to drilling large holes
> in your house structure! In general, keep the holes as small as possible,
> and keep them in the center of the timber. NEVER notch the top or bottom
> of a joist more than a foot from each end...
You wouldn't believe what we found in the house we bought when we exposed
all the framing during a gut renovation.
The staircase ran at right angles to the floor framing, so about 8 joists
were cut and dead-ended into a boxout, which tied into a single joist.
So, now we've got this single joist indirectly holding up about 1/3rd of
the 2nd floor. It's a single 18-foot span 2x8 (although, being an old
house, it's a real full-dimension 2x8), not even doubled up.
Then, somewhere along the line, a bathroom was added to the 2nd floor.
The toilet waste pipe had to go somewhere but there was a joist in the way
(I'll give you just one guess which one), so they notched it out for the
pipe. Took out about the bottom 5 inches of the beam! Beats me what kept
the structure from failing all these years.
--
Roy Smith <r...@popmail.med.nyu.edu>
New York University School of Medicine
Steve Gray
I bought a Hole Hawg and tried to drill a 4" hole with a hole
saw, with the drill on its high-speed setting. This immediately broke
a gear, rendering the drill useless. Exchanged it for another, which
did exactly the same thing. Returned it for credit.
Only an incompetently designed drill will break a gear if
overloaded, instead of stalling the motor.
I would NEVER buy another Hole Hawg.
Doug Miller
ta...@deltanet.com (Steve Gray) wrote:
+
+ I bought a Hole Hawg and tried to drill a 4" hole with a hole
+saw, with the drill on its high-speed setting.
This doesn't seem prudent. High-speed settings are for drilling small
holes. Normally, one reduces the speed when drilling large holes. No
wonder you damaged the drill. I wonder what speed the instructions
recommended for use with a 4-inch hole saw.
--
dlmiller/at/netdirect/dot/net