Attaching things to plaster walls
John Fauerbach
no wood in the outside walls. I am trying to attach paneling and one inch
seathing to the wall. Drywall screews will not work even drilling holes
that are slighly smaller than the screw. The plastic achors that you
drill a hole for and that put the screw in will not work for this application.
The only thing that will hold so far are thin wire nails which are extremly
trickly the nail in. The reason for this is if I don't hit them completly
straight, they will bend since they are so long. I have to go through
3/8" paneling + 1" seathing (styafoam) + the plaster wall. I am using
1 5/8" paneling nails. I am also glueing the seathing to the plaster and
the paneling to the seathing with something like liquid nail. Please
respone as soon as possible because I am trying to get this done before
the baby is here which could be any day now.
Thanks,
John Fauerbach
Stavros Macrakis
I have a 47 year old house with plaster walls onto cement block.
... I am trying to attach paneling and one inch seathing to the
wall. Drywall screews will not work even drilling holes that are
slighly smaller than the screw. The plastic achors that you drill
a hole for and that put the screw in will not work for this
application.
Why not? Drill the holes with a hammer drill (cheapest is B&D for $50
or so) and masonry bit.
If the problem is that you have to make too many holes, you might
consider screwing wooden blocking to the walls this way (either strips
or even full-coverage plywood), and then screwing over that.
Another possibility is gluing to the wall (Liquid Nails). But this
will be impossible to take off later, and it might be hard to make a
neat installation.
-s
stan e black
> -s
I would glue to sheetrock or, after removing sheetrock, attach strapping
to blocks with PAF's ie shoot them in.
SEB, AIA
patterson,george r
>no wood in the outside walls. I am trying to attach paneling and one inch
>seathing to the wall. Drywall screews will not work even drilling holes
>that are slighly smaller than the screw. The plastic achors that you
>drill a hole for and that put the screw in will not work for this application.
>The only thing that will hold so far are thin wire nails which are extremly
>trickly the nail in. The reason for this is if I don't hit them completly
>straight, they will bend since they are so long. I have to go through
>3/8" paneling + 1" seathing (styafoam) + the plaster wall. I am using
>1 5/8" paneling nails. I am also glueing the seathing to the plaster and
>the paneling to the seathing with something like liquid nail.
When I worked on the WE plant in Doraville we used something called
"tension pins" to nail stuff to cement block. They looked like small
nails, but they drove into the block quite easily and held (which most
nails won't do). Unfortunately, I have never been able to find these
anywhere else.
As an alternate, I would recommend that you make what we used to call
a "peashooter" for driving the nails you're using. Get a piece of tubing
slightly larger that the nail (hobby shops sell brass tubing). Then get
a piece of stiff wire just small enough to fit in the tube (hobby shops
sell piano wire). Cut a piece of this wire the same length as the tube
(or maybe a little longer) and slide it in.
To use, place a nail in the tube, put it in position, and hit the wire
with a hammer. The tube will help keep the nail straight and the wire
will drive the nail.
We used these mainly for tight spots we couldn't reach with a hammer,
but one might work for you.
I recently covered a block wall with foam panels and sheet rock using
glue much as you describe. I found that sheet rock screws frequently
held if the hole was nearly the same size as the screw, and they were
turned in by hand with a screwdriver. I also had to dimple the rock
for the head before driving the screw. They held well enough for the
glue to set. I wouldn't recommend this with panelling, though.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
George Patterson - | "Zero Defects": The result of shutting down a
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| Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
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Gary Heston
>no wood in the outside walls. I am trying to attach paneling and one inch
>seathing to the wall. Drywall screews will not work even drilling holes
>that are slighly smaller than the screw. The plastic achors that you
>drill a hole for and that put the screw in will not work for this application.
>The only thing that will hold so far are thin wire nails which are extremly
>trickly the nail in. The reason for this is if I don't hit them completly
>straight, they will bend since they are so long. I have to go through
>3/8" paneling + 1" seathing (styafoam) + the plaster wall. I am using
>1 5/8" paneling nails.
Whoa, you're going at this the wrong way.
You need to get something that you can nail into, mount that on the
wall, and nail the paneling to it. This is called "furring strips".
Your best bet will be to get some 2x4 or 2x6 boards 8' long, cut
them to length first, then rip it into true 1" thick strips. (No,
1x2 won't work--it's actually 3/4" x 1-1/2".) Run a strip across
the top and bottom of the wall, and one vertically where each panel
seam will be. Where you already have the sheathing, just cut out a
strip and lay in the furring strip. Use the cheapest pine or whatever
you can find.
Secure the furring strips with either screws into wall anchors, or
some of the specially designed nails that use a "power driver" thing.
These go into a handheld thing with a sliding plunger, and have a
washer close to the point. You insert the fastener, stick it against
the furring strip, and whack away on the plunger--transferring *all*
the impact in a straight line onto the fastener. Works quite well.
There are also "power guns" or "powder guns" that use a .22 blank
to fire fasteners into concrete; this may be overkill for your
application (i.e., they could go all the way through the wall).
They're much faster though--wear hearing protection and send your
wife away while you're using it. They're *loud*.
--
Gary Heston, at home..... ...which is now running Unix... :-)
ga...@cdthq.uucp or ...uunet!sci34hub!cdthq!gary (for clueless MTAs)
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Topher Eliot
|> I have a 47 year old house with plaster walls onto cement block. There is
|> no wood in the outside walls. I am trying to attach paneling and one inch
|> seathing to the wall. Drywall screews will not work even drilling holes
|> straight, they will bend since they are so long. I have to go through
|> 3/8" paneling + 1" seathing (styafoam) + the plaster wall. I am using
|> 1 5/8" paneling nails. I am also glueing the seathing to the plaster and
|> the paneling to the seathing with something like liquid nail. Please
Is this '3/8" paneling' really sheetrock, or is it some sort of wood product?
If the latter, you're probably violating code and endangering your family.
Styrofoam puts out deadly fumes when heated (burned), so it should only ever
be used where there is a layer of something relatively non-flamable between
the foam and the living space.
I don't have any good suggestions on fastening, except to second Gary Heston
on furring strips, and to note that there was an article recently (a month
or three ago) in the Journal of Light Construction on fastening things to
concrete.
--
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John P. Curcio
|> Is this '3/8" paneling' really sheetrock, or is it some sort of wood product?
|> If the latter, you're probably violating code and endangering your family.
|> Styrofoam puts out deadly fumes when heated (burned), so it should only ever
|> be used where there is a layer of something relatively non-flamable between
|> the foam and the living space.
I don't understand this. The styrofoam gives off toxic gases when burned, but
then again, so does paneling. In fact, I saw information somewhere which showed
that paneling burns like matchsticks, and can be very dangerous. Am I missing
something here?
-JPC
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# |> Styrofoam puts out deadly fumes when heated (burned), so it should only ever
# |> be used where there is a layer of something relatively non-flamable between
# |> the foam and the living space.
#
# I don't understand this. The styrofoam gives off toxic gases when burned, but
# then again, so does paneling. In fact, I saw information somewhere which showed
# that paneling burns like matchsticks, and can be very dangerous. Am I missing
It's not the just the fumes, it's the fact that styrofoam, especially
if it is vertically mounted in free air, burns at a clip that makes
gasoline look like soda water. It also burns a nice high temp, and
while doing so, emits nasty toxic gas.
But, if you deprive the surface of the fire of unlimited air, by
enclosing it inside paneling or drywall, then it's much less of a
risk. Without lots of air, it smolders along, at much lower
temp.
I claim no special knowledge in this area, but did see some good 'scare
the shit out of you' films as part of fire-fighting training a few
years ago. Most important concept: Modern (office) building do not
burn. The stuff we put in them (drapes, carpets, beds, etc) does!
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