Hardwood Flooring Prices -- Materials/Labour -- Fair?
Amy Moseley Rupp
rock-bottom $7.25 and $8.00 for second and first grade maple
respectively, to $15.00 for first grade! (per sq ft).
In addition, I've called around and priced the materials
at $3.50 and $4.25 sq. ft, which means the rock-bottom labour
price is $3.75/sq. foot for subfloor, installation, sanding
and finishing (and of course supplies and tools).
So even as a DIY project, the cost would be $3.50 to $4.25 per sq.
foot. I'm not really keen on DIY but my husband is, though
he has limited experience with such matters; he's like, how
hard would it be to nail some wood down, run an electric sander
over it, and throw some polyurethane on it?
I think $3.75 per sq. foot for all the above is a reasonable price.
What do you guys think of these prices on labour and materials?
--
Amy Moseley Rupp "Mommy" to Elizabeth AnneMarie,
am...@oakhill.sps.mot.com born 11/4/92, twelve teeth and 50+ words!
(512) 329-7117 Granddaughter of EJSM, loved forever.
Karl Tsai
In addition, I've called around and priced the materials
at $3.50 and $4.25 sq. ft, which means the rock-bottom labour
price is $3.75/sq. foot for subfloor, installation, sanding
and finishing (and of course supplies and tools).
So even as a DIY project, the cost would be $3.50 to $4.25 per sq.
foot. I'm not really keen on DIY but my husband is, though
he has limited experience with such matters; he's like, how
hard would it be to nail some wood down, run an electric sander
over it, and throw some polyurethane on it?
I think $3.75 per sq. foot for all the above is a reasonable price.
What do you guys think of these prices on labour and materials?
You didn't mention the width of the plank, the # of coats of finishes
and the type of finishes all of which make a difference in the per sf
price.
Also, make sure you know what #1 and #2 maple means: I was in a
dispute with my ex-builder and learned that even #1 (supposed to be
the best) maple may have pin-hole knots and other imperfections,
according to an article from the flooring supplier. Maple is not
dimentional as stable as, say, oak or cherry nor as hard; this means
maple floor may shrink and expand a lot and unsightly gaps may show up
here and there.
Last, maple seems more susceptable to fungus and mildew problems
during its drying up process and the evidence may reveal itself in
dark bandings (in case of fungus) and blue smuges/stains (mildew).
I know because I have all of the above defects and, if given a chance
to redo it, I would do mine in cherry.
Karl
Phil Ngai
>foot. I'm not really keen on DIY but my husband is, though
>he has limited experience with such matters; he's like, how
>hard would it be to nail some wood down, run an electric sander
>over it, and throw some polyurethane on it?
What would you do if he nailed it all down and it was crooked
at the end? I understand sanding can take some skill too...
--
.signatures are like bumper stickers.
Charles Ball
footage, near as I can tell, anything below 400-500 SF will start getting
more expensive PSF.
I've found maple for $3.50 - $5.50/SF for 3"-5" planks, both locally and
via mail order from adds in Fine Homebuilding. Did not check strip flooring
(1-1/4 - 2-1/4") prices.
FYI, maple is more difficult to finish well than oak, ash, or other open
grain wood. Every chunk of crystallized poly, dust particle, and brush
bristle (OK, brush bristles are a bit much, but our first flooring sub
*put additional coats over several*:-() sticks out like a sore thumb
because of the subdued grain & flat surface.
We just accepted a quote for $3.40/SF to install, sand, & finish (4 coats
water based polyurethane) ~1000SF from someone highly recommended by a
local high-end (high cost anyway) flooring dealer to deal with problem
floors (and lets face it, problem customers) north of Boston so you just
made my day...
The floor sanders run ~$55/day, buffers for screening between coats run
~25/day around Boston, and sandpaper allegedly more than matches the
rental. The specialized nailers can normally be borrowed from floor
suppliers. $3.40 or $3.75 adds up quick, so I also feel the temptation
to just do it, but the results of my initial efforts on a flight of
stairs were miserable. Given sufficent concentrated time to time minimize
the rental period or a small enough area (like stairs) that I could
give a furniture style hand rubbed finish in a pinch I'd do it myself,
otherwise not.
Applogies to father of Elizabeth AnneMarie,
-Charles Ball
tard...@apollo.hp.com
>foot. I'm not really keen on DIY but my husband is, though
>he has limited experience with such matters; he's like, how
>hard would it be to nail some wood down, run an electric sander
>over it, and throw some polyurethane on it?
>
Sure, that's easy to do...but didn't you say you
wanted a floor?
While there's no rocket science involved, it's not exactly
a cookbook task - a good installation requires some knowledge
of how wood changes, access to a floor nailer (rented), TWO
sanders (drum and edger, also rented) and a bit of sanding
skill, and a smelly painting task (a good filter mask, minimum)
All of which adds up, although it may not add up to as much
as your estimates. Much depends on the skill of the workmen
and the market. The finished product is pretty visible, though -
if you do it yourself you'll be looking at your mistakes for
quite a while.
--
====================================================================
/_ _ Dave Tardiff Phone: (508) 436-4537
/ //_/ Hewlett-Packard Co. Telnet: 436-4537
/ Advanced Systems Division Email: tard...@apollo.hp.com
Mil...@idx.com
In article <Cr1JC...@oakhill.sps.mot.com>, <am...@oakhill.sps.mot.com> writes:
> I've gotten a several estimates on maple HW flooring, ranging from
> rock-bottom $7.25 and $8.00 for second and first grade maple
> respectively, to $15.00 for first grade! (per sq ft).
>
> In addition, I've called around and priced the materials
> at $3.50 and $4.25 sq. ft, which means the rock-bottom labour
> price is $3.75/sq. foot for subfloor, installation, sanding
> and finishing (and of course supplies and tools).
>
> So even as a DIY project, the cost would be $3.50 to $4.25 per sq.
> foot. I'm not really keen on DIY but my husband is, though
> he has limited experience with such matters; he's like, how
> hard would it be to nail some wood down, run an electric sander
> over it, and throw some polyurethane on it?
>
> I think $3.75 per sq. foot for all the above is a reasonable price.
> What do you guys think of these prices on labour and materials?
To me, all of the above estimates sound very, very HIGH. When my husband and I
were building, we received quotes for Oak flooring *installed* for $5.25/sq ft.
Is it possible that Maple is so much more expensive? Are you set on Maple?
With regards to installing it yourself, my husband and father-in-law did this
in my in-law's house. It is *alot* of work, although I have been told the new
floor nailers are easier to use than the one they used. And you have to be
very, very careful how you sand and polyurethane.
Their floor came out beautiful (it was a beveled edge, varied width/length
floor) but both my husband and father-in-law say they will *never* do it again.
Tracy MIL...@IDX.com
Julie Webster
: In article <Cr1JC...@oakhill.sps.mot.com>, <am...@oakhill.sps.mot.com> writes:
: > I've gotten a several estimates on maple HW flooring, ranging from
: > rock-bottom $7.25 and $8.00 for second and first grade maple
: > respectively, to $15.00 for first grade! (per sq ft).
: >
: > In addition, I've called around and priced the materials
: > at $3.50 and $4.25 sq. ft, which means the rock-bottom labour
: > price is $3.75/sq. foot for subfloor, installation, sanding
: > and finishing (and of course supplies and tools).
: >
: To me, all of the above estimates sound very, very HIGH. When my husband and I
: were building, we received quotes for Oak flooring *installed* for $5.25/sq ft.
: Is it possible that Maple is so much more expensive? Are you set on Maple?
When you are building the installer doesn't have to do any prep or subflooring,
that is all done in advance by the builder. That is why the quotes you got
are so muchless than those Amy [I think I got the attributes correct] got.
Those quotes are consitent with the ones I got from people who had a reputation
locally for doing good work. It is also consistent with the quotes I got for
doing my kitchen which included subflooring.
--
Julie Webster
"Abolish Monday mornings and Friday afternoons."
j...@keps.com
Mark Armstrong soft
>rock-bottom $7.25 and $8.00 for second and first grade maple
>respectively, to $15.00 for first grade! (per sq ft).
>
>foot. I'm not really keen on DIY but my husband is, though
>he has limited experience with such matters; he's like, how
>hard would it be to nail some wood down, run an electric sander
>over it, and throw some polyurethane on it?
I have done some DIY (new joist, plumbing, electric, drywall, etc),
but I would not attempt to refinish a floor. I don't think it is that
hard but if you screw up you might not be able to correct the problem.
Has your husband worked a drum sander before? He could do a great job
but then again you might be buying alot of throw rugs.
Another sugestion, buy some prefinished flooring. A factory finish is
better than "throwing some polyurethane on it" and you husband should
be able to install the flooring which is a pretty simple job. I would
get a miter saw to do the job.
Around here (western NY), Bruce hardwood flooring, 3/4" planks, cost
around $6-$9 per sq ft. It should cost that much to install, most of
the labor for unfinished flooring is sanding.
By the way, it cost me $2 per sq ft to refinish some old flooring.
That was 1 coat of polyurethane which wasn't enough, should have put
down 2 coats.
______________________________________________________________
Mark Armstrong
m...@raster.Kodak.COM
______________________________________________________________
Mil...@idx.com
as high....just read the post another netter sent to the group:
ji...@next3.corp.mot.com
> rock-bottom $7.25 and $8.00 for second and first grade maple
> respectively, to $15.00 for first grade! (per sq ft).
and master bedroom @ 880 sq ft. The original quote was $6.50 sq ft with
me taking out the old carpet, pad, particle board and trim. The quote was
for red oak tongue and grove planks to be nailed into the plywood floor
using flooring nails, sanded, stained(we ended up going with a natural,
clear stain) and two coats of polyurethane. We than decided to go with
maple in the master bedroom(which turned out to be a great choice... it
looks wonderful) but it increased our quote by $.50 sq ft for the
bedroom(turns out the increase should have been $1.00 sq ft but the
contractor misquoted us, but lived up the the quote). When it came time
to take out the particle board, I found that the board was not only nailed
and stapled, but also glued to the plywood. This made the remove of the
particle board extremely difficult and time consuming. To make a long
story short, I ended up paying the contractor an additional $800 to remove
the particle board. Bottom line is that we ended up with beautiful
looking floors and the whole process took one week(in fact today is our
first day back in the house).
>
> In addition, I've called around and priced the materials
> at $3.50 and $4.25 sq. ft, which means the rock-bottom labour
> price is $3.75/sq. foot for subfloor, installation, sanding
> and finishing (and of course supplies and tools).
>
> So even as a DIY project, the cost would be $3.50 to $4.25 per sq.
> foot. I'm not really keen on DIY but my husband is, though
> he has limited experience with such matters; he's like, how
> hard would it be to nail some wood down, run an electric sander
> over it, and throw some polyurethane on it?
I watched the contractor install the floor and if you have the correct
tools, there is nothing tricky or magical about what they did, but let me
tell you it did look like back braking labor. It took two guys with over
30 yrs combined experience two full days to install. One day to sand(with
a drum sander that they connected to the main power supply thru the main
fuse panel) and apply the stain. The first coat of polyurethane is
applied the next day. That dries for 48 hours and then the final coat is
applied and can be walked on in 24 hours with stocking feet and 48 hours
before furniture can be placed back on it.
>
> I think $3.75 per sq. foot for all the above is a reasonable price.
> What do you guys think of these prices on labour and materials?
We live in the Chicagoland area, so our labor prices may vary, but get
several quotes for comparison and go with the contractor you feel the most
comfortable with. Just remember that you usually get what you pay for and
we feel we got professionally installed floors that look terrific!
Good luck!
Regards
Jim Moorhouse
jmoor...@mot.com
Michael Amato
I'm having Select Red Oak with 3 coats poly installed for $4.65/sq.ft.
538 sq.ft. -> $2,500.00. Wood costs about $3.00/sq.ft. (An estimate, since
they are more choosy when doing a select floor, ie. more waste. Most builders
around here specify #1). That leaves $1.65/sq.ft. for labor and poly cost.
If poly is $30/gal. and they need 6? gal., then thats about $.35/sq.ft.
They are getting about $1.30/sq.ft. or $700 for labor. It is well worth
the $700 to have the job done by someone else, in 4 days (mostly drying time).
They will have the floor (3 rooms, a hallway, and a small closet) installed
and sanded in 1 day (~8 hrs).
--
Michael Amato
Ed Butler
I am in the Philadelphia area and work with a buddy installing refinishing
flooring. In general we would look for about $2 per square foot for
installation and another $2 for refinishing. This is competative for the
area.
To be honest we do not make much on the installation but will do it if we
also get the refinishing.
Your husband is not giving credit where due. A lot can go wrong with both
the installation and the finishing. The sad part is some of the errors
will not show up until refinishing.
We have done some maple floors. The best grades are not in my opinion the
best looking floors. Maple tends to have a lot of variety to it and even
the select and clear grades are not as uniform as something like oak. We
try to point this out to people and advise them that #1 or #2 common will
save them a lot of money in the materials and provide a very interesting
floor. Whenever we have done this the result has been excellent.
One last point is that there are a lot of different and new urethanes on
the market. Gone are the days when oil based urethane was the only option.
We think the best finishes are those that can be put on perfectly and last
a long time. Currently many finishes will last but are difficult to apply
perfectly and many are easy to apply but has no alsting power.
Standard disclaimer.
Brent Beach
With this email address a reply is bound to bounce, so I will
try in the group:
So Ed, what finishes can be put on perfectly and last a long
time?
Brent
--
Brent Beach, Victoria, BC