fixing nail hole in copper water pipe
pdre...@cdi.marconi.ca
Help. My bozo plumber, who is redoing my bathroom, was nailing
the subfloor and struck one of his newly-laid copper pipes.
Since when it happened he did not have all his tools with
him, he plugged the hole with some solder instead of
replacing the short run of pipe that contains the nail
hole.
He is now insisting that this is a good permanent fix.
I don't think so. I think the run should be replaced,
or at least a copper plate should be weilded to the
pipe where the hole is.
What is the proper way to fix a nail hole in copper piping.
Thanks in advance for your responses.
Peter
Sam Goldwasser
It will take him about 5 minutes to fix it correctly. What is his problem?
I wouldn't leave it like that in a finished wall or floor!
--- sam
John Hascall
<pdre...@cdi.marconi.ca> wrote:
}Help. My bozo plumber, who is redoing my bathroom, was nailing
}the subfloor and struck one of his newly-laid copper pipes.
}
}Since when it happened he did not have all his tools with
}him, he plugged the hole with some solder instead of
}replacing the short run of pipe that contains the nail
}hole.
}
}He is now insisting that this is a good permanent fix.
}I don't think so. I think the run should be replaced,
}or at least a copper plate should be weilded to the
}pipe where the hole is.
If you were doing it yourself -- would you leave it like that?
If not, why would you accept lower quality work that you
have paid for?
John
PS, I would replace it -- I'd worry about it forever (but that's me)
--
John Hascall, Software Engr. Shut up, be happy. The conveniences you
ISU Computation Center demanded are now mandatory. -Jello Biafra
jo...@iastate.edu
http://www.cc.iastate.edu/staff/systems/john/welcome.html <-- the usual crud
Uncle Bob
If the solder repair is not leaking , it should be fine. I have repaired
many, many holes in refrigeration units copper tubing with solder and they
worked fine. I always use 70/30 rosin filled solder. It melts at a low
temperature and has a tensile strenghth of 1800 lb.
Refrigeration units reach 200 PSI which is a lot more than normal water
pressure.
Uncle Bob(dege...@aol.com)
James W. Baker
It would be pretty simple to cut the pipe at the hole and sweat in a
copper coupling just like you would do when you join two sections of
pipe. Since it's going to be under the floor where it will be difficult
to see if it starts leaking, this would seem to be a reasonable
approach.
Jim Baker
Doug & Rose Miller
"Uncle Bob" <dege...@aol.com> wrote:
+If the solder repair is not leaking , it should be fine. I have repaired
+many, many holes in refrigeration units copper tubing with solder and they
+worked fine. I always use 70/30 rosin filled solder. It melts at a low
+temperature and has a tensile strenghth of 1800 lb.
+Refrigeration units reach 200 PSI which is a lot more than normal water
+pressure.
+
+Uncle Bob(dege...@aol.com)
Let me get this straight: you're suggesting using lead solder on a
water pipe? Not in *my* house.
Gary
On Fri, 01 Nov 1996 10:42:34 -0500, "James W. Baker"
<james....@lmco.com> wrote:
:>Uncle Bob wrote:
:>>
:>> If the solder repair is not leaking , it should be fine. I have repaired
:>> many, many holes in refrigeration units copper tubing with solder and they
:>> worked fine. I always use 70/30 rosin filled solder. It melts at a low
:>> temperature and has a tensile strenghth of 1800 lb.
:>> Refrigeration units reach 200 PSI which is a lot more than normal water
:>> pressure.
:>>
:>> Uncle Bob(dege...@aol.com)
:>
:>It would be pretty simple to cut the pipe at the hole and sweat in a
:>copper coupling just like you would do when you join two sections of
:>pipe. Since it's going to be under the floor where it will be difficult
:>to see if it starts leaking, this would seem to be a reasonable
:>approach.
:>
:>Jim Baker
Having done quite a bit of copper pipe *sweating* I'd agree with Jim
and *INSIST* on the pipe being cut at the hole and a coupling sweated
(soldered) into place. Using solder to plug a hole is a *very* unwise
practice as the solder is designed for joining two surfaces , not for
filling a hole. In a similar vein, glue is quite strong to join two
surfaces but it's quite weak when attempting to plug a hole with it.
Gary
Gary
g...@juno.com
"Good pings come in small packets"
AJ Gist
Easy,
Just get a compression coupling. About $.89. The job takes about 5
minutes.
Oh! You don't need to be a plumber. Don't leave it, poor workmanship
is poor workmanship, plan and simple.
Hope this helps.
Tony
Rob Holmes
Let me get this straight? You don't have any lead solder on the pipes
in your house? That's a neat trick! How do you keep the pipes from
leaking? Thumb Gum?
The nail hole will most likely be just fine the way it is. But, it probably
should have been repaired by sweating a new piece of copper. But, how to
do this without lead solder, I don't know. Maybe duct tape? Or just
caulk it!!! No, drip a melted penny over the joint!
Rob
paul milligan
rbr...@ssec.wisc.edu (Rob Holmes) pondered, and wrote:
>Let me get this straight? You don't have any lead solder on the pipes
>in your house?
I don't. Of course, all my 'pipes' are made out of that funny
grey-copper pipe with the crimp fittings......
{ that was a joke, guys - polybutyl, heh ? Doesn't take
solder worth a damn :-) }
>The nail hole will most likely be just fine the way it is. But, it probably
>should have been repaired by sweating a new piece of copper. But, how to
>do this without lead solder, I don't know. Maybe duct tape? Or just
>caulk it!!! No, drip a melted penny over the joint!
If it was going to be patched, I'd feel a lot better with
braze than solder - in new construction, when it's gonna be buried,
I'd surely insist on either braze, or cut in new fittings, as
mentioned here previously.
Paul
>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~
p...@pobox.com
My personal WWW site is at http://www.pobox.com/~pjm
The Sci.Engr.Heat-Vent-AC FAQ is at http://www.elitesoft.com/sci.hvac/
Jeff Benjamin
> Let me get this straight? You don't have any lead solder on the pipes
> leaking? Thumb Gum?
Gee whiz - go to any hardware or plumbing store and buy a package of
lead-free solder and flux. Works just fine.
--
Jeff Benjamin be...@fc.hp.com
Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado
"Think! It ain't illegal yet." -- George Clinton
roger
> Let me get this straight? You don't have any lead solder on the pipes
> in your house? That's a neat trick! How do you keep the pipes from
> leaking? Thumb Gum?
Lead solder has been banned from drinking water pipes for several
years. The solder used now is generally 95% tin, 5% antimony. (Other
alloys are also used).
Jim K
> |> Let me get this straight: you're suggesting using lead solder on a
> |> water pipe? Not in *my* house.
>
> in your house? That's a neat trick! How do you keep the pipes from
> leaking? Thumb Gum?
>
probably
> should have been repaired by sweating a new piece of copper. But, how to
> do this without lead solder, I don't know. Maybe duct tape? Or just
> caulk it!!! No, drip a melted penny over the joint!
It's called lead free solder. Our wise govt. at work again.
Where have you been?
Jim
Tom Stone
In article <01bbcaae$c7aacb40$1af612c7@JimK>, "Jim K" <ji...@cannet.com> writes:
|> > ...Maybe duct tape? Or just caulk it!!! ...
Why not just run some Prestone antifreeze through the system??? It fixes
leaks in radiators ok, why not indoor plumbing as well? :-)
Regards,
--
Any opinions expressed are strictly my own.
tst...@nortel.ca <Literasy Ain't Everthing>
Morrison
:On 5 Nov 1996 14:58:36 GMT, tst...@bnr.ca (Tom Stone) wrote:
>
>In article <01bbcaae$c7aacb40$1af612c7@JimK>, "Jim K" <ji...@cannet.com> writes:
>|> > ...Maybe duct tape? Or just caulk it!!! ...
>
>Why not just run some Prestone antifreeze through the system??? It fixes
>leaks in radiators ok, why not indoor plumbing as well? :-)
Small pinhole leaks in copper tubing can be plugged by shoving
a sharpened pencil into the hole and breaking off the lead. I suppose
you could wrap a piece of tape around the pencil lead plug. But, I
don't think it is really necessary.
Morrison
Iowa City, Iowa USA
mmor...@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu
paul milligan
tst...@bnr.ca (Tom Stone) pondered, and wrote:
>
>In article <01bbcaae$c7aacb40$1af612c7@JimK>, "Jim K" <ji...@cannet.com> writes:
>|> > ...Maybe duct tape? Or just caulk it!!! ...
>
>Why not just run some Prestone antifreeze through the system??? It fixes
>leaks in radiators ok, why not indoor plumbing as well? :-)
DON't forget the sawdust...
Doug & Rose Miller
rbr...@ssec.wisc.edu (Rob Holmes) wrote:
+In article <55eds8$s...@news.inetdirect.net>, dlmi...@inetdirect.net (Doug & Rose Miller) writes:
+|> "Uncle Bob" <dege...@aol.com> wrote:
+|> +If the solder repair is not leaking , it should be fine. I have repaired
+|> +many, many holes in refrigeration units copper tubing with solder and they
+|> +worked fine. I always use 70/30 rosin filled solder. It melts at a low
+|> +temperature and has a tensile strenghth of 1800 lb.
+|> +Refrigeration units reach 200 PSI which is a lot more than normal water
+|> +pressure.
+|> +
+|> +Uncle Bob(dege...@aol.com)
+|>
+|> Let me get this straight: you're suggesting using lead solder on a
+|> water pipe? Not in *my* house.
+
+Let me get this straight? You don't have any lead solder on the pipes
+in your house? That's a neat trick! How do you keep the pipes from
+leaking? Thumb Gum?
On the copper pipes, I use lead-free solder. On the plastic ones, I use
Oatey's 3-in-1. None of my pipes leaks.
+
+The nail hole will most likely be just fine the way it is. But, it probably
+should have been repaired by sweating a new piece of copper. But, how to
+do this without lead solder, I don't know. Maybe duct tape? Or just
+caulk it!!! No, drip a melted penny over the joint!
+
+Rob
The nail hole will probably begin to leak before too long. It definitely
should have been repaired by sweating a new piece of copper, or
at least a coupler. Doing this without lead solder is actually pretty easy,
Rob -- all you need to do is go to the hardware store and buy some
lead-FREE solder.
k...@ibm.net
In <55lj6n$a...@spool.cs.wisc.edu>, rbr...@ssec.wisc.edu (Rob Holmes) writes:
>Let me get this straight? You don't have any lead solder on the pipes
Yes, *fact*, but both of you are very wrong. Solder does *not* imply lead
in any form, in fact the 70/30 mix in the referenced post implied no lead.
The utectic point of lead is close to 60% Pb/ 40% Sn. This is absolutely
forbidden for residential water (no, I'll not bite). Tin (30%) and Antimony
(70%) are the currrent favorites. I was a tad confused by the rosin core,
though. You absolutely want an acid flux for plumbing. This is not delicate
electrinic stuff! Soldered copper pipes are still the prefered plumbing
method.
>
>The nail hole will most likely be just fine the way it is. But, it probably
>should have been repaired by sweating a new piece of copper. But, how to
>do this without lead solder, I don't know.
Sheesh! Lead solder has not been available for domestic use for years! Yes,
I have this stuff for electronics, but I don't drink electrons. THe stuff you buy
today in the "Home Depot's" is not lead based! It is a Tin-Antimony utectic.
----
Keith R. Williams
k...@ibm.net
Brian F. Lundy
I cannot believe that this question recieved the most responses of any
question posted on this newsgroup for a week. It is a hole in a water
pipe, for crying out loud! Lead-free solder is readily available and
there are many ways to fix the same problem, the challenge is to find the
BEST solution, which usually involves the complete elimination of wear,
stress or friction points by replacing any weak section with a
compression fitting or some other device with known performance.
Brian F. Lundy
Texas A&M University
Wayne T. Hally
In article <55nkms$e...@brtph500.bnr.ca> tst...@bnr.ca (Tom Stone) writes:
>From: tst...@bnr.ca (Tom Stone)
>Subject: Re: fixing nail hole in copper water pipe
>Date: 5 Nov 1996 14:58:36 GMT
>Why not just run some Prestone antifreeze through the system??? It fixes
>leaks in radiators ok, why not indoor plumbing as well? :-)
>Regards,
>--
> Any opinions expressed are strictly my own.
> tst...@nortel.ca <Literasy Ain't Everthing>
Tom ,I know you meant this as a joke, but some people might not.
And since antifreeze is a deadly poison if ingested, I don't think I'd make a
joke of it. After all, some readers of this NG might not catch that.
Just my opinion, not my employers....
Wayne Tv
David Pritchett
Most of those over 21 grew up drinking water that ran through lead
soldered pipes and now we're arguing over patching a nail hole with (God
forbid!) LEAD based solder...
C. Wayne Parker
Also, antifreeze doesn't fix leaks in anything! When a heater hose or radiator develops
a pinhole leak, you can bet you will have hot, smelly, greenish-yellow stuff all under
your car. (Also, for those with pets - don't pour old antifreeze where pets can drink
it. They are attracted to it because it smells sweet to them and it will kill them.)
Side-note: There is, however, a non-toxic antifreeze used for potable water systems in
RVs and mobile homes - it's good for (-)50 degF. All you do is run clean water through
the system in the spring to flush it out and you're ready for another season of camping.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
C. Wayne Parker, P.E. c...@ornl.gov
Lockheed Martin Energy Systems, Inc. ...but, I speak
Oak Ridge National Laboratory for myself...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rob Holmes
In article <Pine.VMS.3.91-vms-b4-acs.9611061...@VMS1.TAMU.EDU>, "Brian F. Lundy" <BFL...@acs.tamu.edu> writes:
|> On Wed, 6 Nov 1996, Doug & Rose Miller wrote:
|>
|> rbr...@ssec.wisc.edu (Rob Holmes) wrote:
|> +In article <55eds8$s...@news.inetdirect.net>, dlmi...@inetdirect.net (Doug & Rose Miller) writes:
|> +|> "Uncle Bob" <dege...@aol.com> wrote:
|>
|> On the copper pipes, I use lead-free solder. On the plastic ones, I use
|> Oatey's 3-in-1. None of my pipes leaks.
|>
|>
|> should have been repaired by sweating a new piece of copper, or > at
|> least a coupler. Doing this without lead solder is actually pretty easy,
|> Rob -- all you need to do is go to the hardware store and buy some
|> lead-FREE solder.
|>
|>
|>
Looks like Rob needs a show horn to take the foot out of his mouth! Rob can
be an idiot sometimes!
I actually didn't know that they made lead-free solder for water pipe
application. I thought it was just a reduced lead alloy, something like
95/5. Well, I was quite wrong. Sorry about that.
One question though...How dangerous is it to inhale the fumes given off by
working with lead solder?
Rob
paul milligan
rbr...@ssec.wisc.edu (Rob Holmes) pondered, and wrote:
>One question though...How dangerous is it to inhale the fumes given off by
>working with lead solder?
I've never noticed any problem with inhaling.......um.....
uh......... what was the question again ?
H. Austin Hummel
In article <55oup3$h...@news.inetdirect.net>, dlmi...@inetdirect.net (Doug & Rose Miller) writes:
|> rbr...@ssec.wisc.edu (Rob Holmes) wrote:
|> +In article <55eds8$s...@news.inetdirect.net>, dlmi...@inetdirect.net (Doug & Rose Miller) writes:
|> +|> "Uncle Bob" <dege...@aol.com> wrote:
|> +|> +many, many holes in refrigeration units copper tubing with solder and they
|> +|> +worked fine. I always use 70/30 rosin filled solder. It melts at a low
|> +|> +temperature and has a tensile strenghth of 1800 lb.
|> +|> +Refrigeration units reach 200 PSI which is a lot more than normal water
|> +|> +pressure.
|>
|> should have been repaired by sweating a new piece of copper, or
|> at least a coupler. Doing this without lead solder is actually pretty easy,
|> Rob -- all you need to do is go to the hardware store and buy some
|> lead-FREE solder.
|>
A Quick fix is to use a Copper sheet metal screw it will seal, teh go
buy the lead-free solder. and never nail it again. ;-)
--
========================================================================
Austin Hummel email: h...@empros.com
========================================================================
Doug & Rose Miller
ahu...@empros.com (H. Austin Hummel) wrote:
+In article <55oup3$h...@news.inetdirect.net>, dlmi...@inetdirect.net (Doug & Rose Miller) writes:
+|> rbr...@ssec.wisc.edu (Rob Holmes) wrote:
+|> +In article <55eds8$s...@news.inetdirect.net>, dlmi...@inetdirect.net (Doug & Rose Miller) writes:
+|> +|> "Uncle Bob" <dege...@aol.com> wrote:
+|> +|> +If the solder repair is not leaking , it should be fine. I have repaired
+|> +|> +many, many holes in refrigeration units copper tubing with solder and they
+|> +|> +worked fine. I always use 70/30 rosin filled solder. It melts at a low
+|> +|> +temperature and has a tensile strenghth of 1800 lb.
+|> +|> +Refrigeration units reach 200 PSI which is a lot more than normal water
+|> +|> +pressure.
+|>
+|> The nail hole will probably begin to leak before too long. It definitely
+|> should have been repaired by sweating a new piece of copper, or
+|> at least a coupler. Doing this without lead solder is actually pretty easy,
+|> Rob -- all you need to do is go to the hardware store and buy some
+|> lead-FREE solder.
+|>
+
+A Quick fix is to use a Copper sheet metal screw it will seal, teh go
+buy the lead-free solder. and never nail it again. ;-)
+
Why is everybody so full of quick-fix ideas? What on earth is wrong
with fixing it RIGHT ?
First off, copper sheet metal screws ain't easy to find. Second, a screw
_won't_ seal against leaks. Third, the screw protruding into the pipe
will cause some loss of water flow.
To fix this RIGHT requires nothing more than cutting the pipe at the hole,
and sweating in a straight coupling to hold the two pieces together.
What's hard about that?
M.W. (Initials only) Gilbert
I'm an old HVAC guy and a plumber (and an electrician, combustion
engine repair guy, alarm system tech, computer repairman, etc).
Sounds like a bunch of ado about nothing. Plugging with lead solder
will work fine if done right. Rarely is tho. The amount of lead
released into water from a single solder joint is so minute as far as
health hazards are concerned so as not to be something to worry about.
All you guys quoting worrys about lead should learn to actually read
and UNDERSTAND the numbers relating to risk.
Lead solder is readily available almost everywhere.
Having said that, I advise the guy with the hole in his pipe to buy
some standard lead free solder for plumbing to keep around the house.
No since calling somebody like me for a simple hole in a pipe.
As far as replacing the section of pipe. Guys, it depends on where it
is and the skill of the guy. If the pipe is somewhere difficult to
get to and/or difficult to torch he may well be wary of trying to
replace the section.
An old trick is to take a section of pipe/tube the next size larger.
Lenght sized so that when the hole is centered you have an inch to
spare in both directions. (i.e. 2 inch long for nail hole). Slice
tube/pipe in half lenghtwise. Slap over tube/pipe with hole. Use a
plier to clinch it down snug over the pipe. Solder around it.
Has the advantage of a much better grip than trying to get some solder
in a small hole. You also don't have to deal with lack of stick
because of contaminants inside pipe goofing your solder.
Not a scientific explaination but works well. Used when clearance
makes it difficult to work. Or in situations where you would have to
torch around a corner and haven't the experience/confidence to feel
that you can get a good seal where you can't see. Also works when you
are in a bloody hurry to get something back in service.
Works on refrigeration systems too. Had an emergency call at 2:00 am
one night and did not have copper pipe of the right size in my truck
(2"). Brazed in that case tho. System is still running 8 years
later.
When you can, replacing the section is always best. But alternatives
are needed sometimes. Like using solder on on refrigerant systems. Six
percent silver works quite well as long as mechanical movement is not
a worry. Now the guy who suggested compression fittings....well I
don't use em at anytime I can get away without them.
Bob
JD
Has this question got out of hand or what?
The guy had a nail hole in the pipe and a plumber soldered it instead of
putting in a coupling.
He wanted to know if he should insist on the coupling or leave it as is.
Here's the bottom line.
The solder works fine just as silfos over a refrigeration leak in copper,
BUT, Thatis not the proper thing to do in this case.
Professional practice dictates that the section be cut and a coupling
soldered in.
Ask any qualified 60 year old plumber that is proud of the work he has
done.
(I am not 60 years old or a plumber but have had to work with a few in my
day)
robert simpson sh514 4738
In article <01bbd02c$9112fde0$6da757ce@arrowsmith2>, "JD" <J@B> writes:
|>
|>
|> Has this question got out of hand or what?
|> The guy had a nail hole in the pipe and a plumber soldered it instead of
|> putting in a coupling.
|> soldered in.
Maybe a silly question, but this sort of accident tends to happen when
both ends of the pipe are rigidly fixed. How then do you get in a new
section or coupling that requires (during insertion) a space longer than
what you have cut out?
I agree, I would not sleep soundly with just a solder patch there.
--
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Robert SIMPSON |
| e-mail: rs...@sebb.bel.alcatel.be t-mail: +32 3 240.47.38 |
+======================================================================+
paul milligan
rs...@se9ws259.alcbel.be (robert simpson sh514 4738) pondered, and
wrote:
>Maybe a silly question, but this sort of accident tends to happen when
>both ends of the pipe are rigidly fixed. How then do you get in a new
>section or coupling that requires (during insertion) a space longer than
>what you have cut out?
Cut a section out of the pipe that's about equal to 1/2 the
length of the coupling plus a hair. Clean and flux all parts. Pull
one side of the cut pipe up just enough to slide the fitting all the
way on ( up to the pressed-in 'stop ridge' in the middle of the
coupling) . This should leave the free end of the coupling just shy
of the other side of the cut pipe. Lower the coupling and raised pipe
back into alignment with the other side of the cut, and slide the
coupling over the other side of the cut. Try to get about equal
spacing on both sides. Sweat it in.
Bill Bolton
In article <01bbd02c$9112fde0$6da757ce@arrowsmith2>, "JD" <J@B> writes:
|>
|>
|> Has this question got out of hand or what?
|> The guy had a nail hole in the pipe and a plumber soldered it instead of
|> putting in a coupling.
|> Professional practice dictates that the section be cut and a coupling
|> soldered in.
Maybe a silly question, but this sort of accident tends to happen when
both ends of the pipe are rigidly fixed. How then do you get in a new
section or coupling that requires (during insertion) a space longer than
what you have cut out?
I agree, I would not sleep soundly with just a solder patch there.
Don't think about this too hard (or you not going
to get any sleep), but every copper joint in your
house is done with solder ...... whoooo boy !!!!
think about all those potential leaks.
Bill Bolton.
Ottawa, Canada.
David Creel
> >both ends of the pipe are rigidly fixed. How then do you get in a new
> >section or coupling that requires (during insertion) a space longer than
> >what you have cut out?
>
> length of the coupling plus a hair. Clean and flux all parts. Pull
> one side of the cut pipe up just enough to slide the fitting all the
> way on ( up to the pressed-in 'stop ridge' in the middle of the
> coupling) . This should leave the free end of the coupling just shy
> of the other side of the cut pipe. Lower the coupling and raised pipe
> back into alignment with the other side of the cut, and slide the
> coupling over the other side of the cut. Try to get about equal
> spacing on both sides. Sweat it in.
>
> Paul
>
> >~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~
> p...@pobox.com
>
> My personal WWW site is at http://www.pobox.com/~pjm
>
or take a small rond file and remove the ridge from a regular coupling.
Doug & Rose Miller
bx...@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Bill Bolton) wrote:
+
+
+In article <01bbd02c$9112fde0$6da757ce@arrowsmith2>, "JD" <J@B> writes:
+|>
+|>
+|> Has this question got out of hand or what?
+|> The guy had a nail hole in the pipe and a plumber soldered it instead of
+|> putting in a coupling.
+|> Professional practice dictates that the section be cut and a coupling
+|> soldered in.
+
+Maybe a silly question, but this sort of accident tends to happen when
+both ends of the pipe are rigidly fixed. How then do you get in a new
+section or coupling that requires (during insertion) a space longer than
+what you have cut out?
+I agree, I would not sleep soundly with just a solder patch there.
+
+Don't think about this too hard (or you not going
+to get any sleep), but every copper joint in your
+house is done with solder ...... whoooo boy !!!!
+think about all those potential leaks.
+
+Bill Bolton.
+Ottawa, Canada.
Uhhh, Bill, the original post was talking about filling a *hole* with
solder -- not quite the same situation as soldering pipes and
fittings together. It's a question of holding the pressure.
JD
Well, One of those 60 year old plumbers showed me this one.
Some couplings have a circular edge in the center to prevent it from
pushing onto the pipe too far.(refrigeration pipe couplings). Others Have
what is no more than a "nail set" type of mark.
Use the latter and use emery cloth to sand down the indent on the inside of
the coupling.
Then slide(force) the coupling onto the pipe further than normal (to the
end of the coupling) and then line up the pipes and slide the coupling back
to the proper place.
Of course, everything should be sanded and fluxed.
robert simpson sh514 4738 <rs...@se9ws259.alcbel.be> wrote in article
<1996Nov1...@se9ws259.alcbel.be>...
> In article <01bbd02c$9112fde0$6da757ce@arrowsmith2>, "JD" <J@B> writes:
> |>
> |>
> |> Has this question got out of hand or what?
>
>
> Maybe a silly question, but this sort of accident tends to happen when
> both ends of the pipe are rigidly fixed. How then do you get in a new
> section or coupling that requires (during insertion) a space longer than
> what you have cut out?
John Porter
robert simpson sh514 4738 (rs...@se9ws259.alcbel.be) wrote:
: In article <01bbd02c$9112fde0$6da757ce@arrowsmith2>, "JD" <J@B> writes:
: |>
: |>
: |> Has this question got out of hand or what?
: |> putting in a coupling.
: |> Professional practice dictates that the section be cut and a coupling
: |> soldered in.
: Maybe a silly question, but this sort of accident tends to happen when
: both ends of the pipe are rigidly fixed. How then do you get in a new
: section or coupling that requires (during insertion) a space longer than
: what you have cut out?
You can get a coupling, called a slip coupling or repair coupling, that
is made like a regular coupling but without the internal stop. As long
as you can spring the two pieces enough sideways to slip the coupling
onto one of them, which is almost always the case, you just slip it on,
realign the pieces, and move it halfway onto the other piece (put a
mark where you want it to end up). After appropriate cleaning and
fluxing of the things, of course. Solder in the normal way. Works like
a charm and makes many otherwise impossible things easy.
--
John Porter
jpo...@bu.edu
