Where do we get dealer's true cost (invoice?) for a Honda Accord or CRV?
Judy Zappacosta
I went to Edmunds but they only have something called "true value", which
is not the dealer cost but what people (somehow told them they) paid.
I googled and found tons of car salesmen who would give me car quotes by
email if I gave them all my personal information.
But, I just anonymously want to find the dealer cost?
Does a website exist which will show us dealer cost?
Rod Speed
It isnt possible in the ultimate, because the rebate a particular
dealer gets from the manufacturer varys considerably, particularly
with how they finance the cars they have on the floor etc.
Judy Zappacosta
> It isnt possible in the ultimate, because the rebate a particular
> dealer gets from the manufacturer varys considerably, particularly
> with how they finance the cars they have on the floor etc.
But what's the closest we can get?
I am hoping to get closer than to 'value' pricing at Edmunds:
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/strategies/articles/102203/article.html
Is there a way to get factory invoice at least?
Rod Speed
> Rod Speed wrote
>> It isnt possible in the ultimate, because the rebate a particular
>> dealer gets from the manufacturer varys considerably, particularly
>> with how they finance the cars they have on the floor etc.
> But what's the closest we can get?
Not very close at all, essentially because factory invoice even if you
could get that isnt very useful at all, because its the rebate that matters.
> I am hoping to get closer than to 'value' pricing at Edmunds:
> http://www.edmunds.com/advice/strategies/articles/102203/article.html
They'd make it available if it was feasible.
> Is there a way to get factory invoice at least?
It wouldnt be much use even if it was available.
watcher
I believe that "Consumer Reports" can provide that information, for a fee,
of course. Also, you might want to haunt your local Barnes and Noble, in the
Transportation section; I seem to recall coming across various books that gave
the factory cost of most cars, along with the costs for their various options
and packages. It's been several years, so I might be misrembering, but I
think Edmunds was among those putting out these pricing books. I don't
remember who the other publishers were, unfortunately.
W.
jim beam
good luck. dealers go to great lengths to hide that info. "dealer
invoice" is a fiction designed to assist in this deception.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
Bill
they will double the price of what they paid for an item typically. So if
they paid $10 for something, it will sell for $20.
And they need to do this to pay their bills. Renting a building, paying
employees, paying the electric bill, insurance, etc. and make a profit. If
they can't cover their costs and make a profit, they will not be in business
very long!
"Judy Zappacosta" wrote in message
Lou
"Bill" <billnoma...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:87hj7...@mid.individual.net...
> I don't know about vehicle sales, but I know with many retail businesses,
> they will double the price of what they paid for an item typically. So if
> they paid $10 for something, it will sell for $20.
>
> And they need to do this to pay their bills. Renting a building, paying
> employees, paying the electric bill, insurance, etc. and make a profit. If
> they can't cover their costs and make a profit, they will not be in
business
> very long!
A car generally is a big purchase, but other ongoing expenses add up as
well. I wonder if the original poster investigates the "dealer" cost for
groceries, or electricity, or housing before eating, turning on the lights,
or settling on a place to live?
Rod Speed
> I don't know about vehicle sales,
Thats obvious.
> but I know with many retail businesses, they will double the price of what they paid for an item typically. So if they
> paid $10 for something, it will sell for $20.
Not with high value items like cars they dont.
I did once overhear the salesman ask his manager
what price he could offer me on a large top loading
washing machine when he said what their purchase
price was, I was shocked at how low the margin
was, single digit percentage of the retail price.
> And they need to do this to pay their bills. Renting a building,
> paying employees, paying the electric bill, insurance, etc. and make a profit. If they can't cover their costs and
> make a profit, they will not be in business very long!
Yes, but they dont need to charge twice what they paid with high value items like cars.
Tegger
news:cf59a74a7089a80d...@tioat.net:
What does it matter? Just get on-the-road quotes from a few dealerships in
your area. Pick the lowest one. End of story.
--
Tegger
Rod Speed
> Judy Zappacosta zappaj...@Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid wrote
>> Where can I get the dealer's true cost for a Honda Accord or CRV?
>> I went to Edmunds but they only have something called "true value", which
>> is not the dealer cost but what people (somehow told them they) paid.
>> I googled and found tons of car salesmen who would give me
>> car quotes by email if I gave them all my personal information.
>> But, I just anonymously want to find the dealer cost?
>> Does a website exist which will show us dealer cost?
> What does it matter?
It does tell you the price they wont go below unless they are in a very
desperate situation financially and need to avoid going broke etc.
> Just get on-the-road quotes from a few dealerships
> in your area. Pick the lowest one. End of story.
Fraid not.
a real cheapskate
> Tegger wrote
>
> > Judy Zappacosta zappajNOS...@Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid wrote
dealer cost is intentially obscured by a lot of manufacturer specials
givebacks and advertising sharing.
Jeff
Most invoice prices I have checked in the past run pretty close to 10% less
than the list price for many car makes.
Tegger
news:ea84883c-1804-4ece...@s9g2000yqd.googlegroups.com:
The point is that there will be a price below which they will simply
refuse to sell to you because they know somebody else will come along
and pay above that amount. That's why this "dealer cost" thing is
useless. The only useful thing is determining which dealer will give you
the lowest on-the-road quote. Therefore, you get on-the-road quotes and
pick the lowest one.
Then you spend the better part of an hour in purgatory while the salesman
and his manager try their very best to high-pressure you into caving-in and
signing for a higher price than they quoted.
Your only weapon is the threat of walking out. You must be -- and
explicitly appear to be -- completely unafraid of using that weapon.
The manager won't sign for your price? Then your asking price is too low.
Rod Speed
>>> What does it matter?
>> Fraid not.
What I said elsewhere in different words.
Rod Speed
Its never that mindlessly black and white.
MAS
> Then you spend the better part of an hour in purgatory while the salesman
> and his manager try their very best to high-pressure you into caving-in and
> signing for a higher price than they quoted.
>
> Your only weapon is the threat of walking out. You must be -- and
> explicitly appear to be -- completely unafraid of using that weapon.
>
> The manager won't sign for your price? Then your asking price is too low.
> End of story.
>
If any car salesman says he can't authorize the deal, without going to
his manager, I walk. One time, I had a salesman tell me he had to speak
to his manager first. I could see his reflection, and pretty much the
whole room, in a mirror while he was in the back room "talking with his
manager." No one else was in the room - he was watching TV for a bit,
while we were supposed to mull over his coming counter-offer. When he
came back out and said the deal was rejected, I left.
D. Ohl
> Then you spend the better part of an hour in purgatory while the salesman
> and his manager try their very best to high-pressure you into caving-in and
> signing for a higher price than they quoted.
What I do is go to Car Bargains (checkbook.com) and get five iron-clad
faxed legal-contract quotes for how much they'll accept over dealer cost.
Then, I walk into any dealership during Monday-thru-Friday business hours
(the Fleet Manager doesn't work on weekends generally) and I hand the fleet
manager the lowest quote (even if it isn't from his dealership).
Say I had the five faxed quotes of:
- $400
- $600
- $600
- $800
- $1,000
And, say, the dealership I went to was in the 800-dollar range. That fleet
manager KNOWS that I can drive a bit to go to the 400-dollar dealership,
since these are all legal contracts, and he KNOWS I'm serious 'cuz I
wouldn't have gone to car bargains if I wasn't.
So, in five minutes, I walk out with the car.
WHy would anyone spend an hour haggling with a salesman? The only reason
for salesmen is for test driving to figure out which car you like. You buy
the car from the fleet manager who doesn't want to spend more than five
minutes concluding the deal and signing the paperwork.
Tegger
@mid.individual.net:
> Tegger wrote:
>>
>> Then you spend the better part of an hour in purgatory while the
>> salesman and his manager try their very best to high-pressure you
>> into caving-in and signing for a higher price than they quoted.
>>
>> Your only weapon is the threat of walking out. You must be -- and
>> explicitly appear to be -- completely unafraid of using that weapon.
>>
>> The manager won't sign for your price? Then your asking price is too
>> low. End of story.
>
> Its never that mindlessly black and white.
>
>
"Mindless"? Try sitting in the salesman's office for an hour while he and
his manager play vicious mind-games with you. "Mindless", my ass.
It takes, and I speak from personal experience, considerable personal
fortitude, savvy, and grit to tough-out the warfare wreaked upon the humble
buyer in the average new-car dealership.
My way is the /only/ way. Unless you're a many-times repeat customer for
that salesman, or your buddies own the dealership.
--
Tegger
Tegger
> On 6/12/2010 7:02 PM, Tegger wrote:
>> Then you spend the better part of an hour in purgatory while the
>> salesman and his manager try their very best to high-pressure you
>> into caving-in and signing for a higher price than they quoted.
>>
>> Your only weapon is the threat of walking out. You must be -- and
>> explicitly appear to be -- completely unafraid of using that weapon.
>>
>> The manager won't sign for your price? Then your asking price is too
>> low. End of story.
>>
>
> If any car salesman says he can't authorize the deal, without going to
> his manager, I walk.
It appears to be true that the manager needs to sign-off on the deal. But
it ends up being just one more trick they use to mess with your mind and
break your resolve.
> One time, I had a salesman tell me he had to
> speak to his manager first. I could see his reflection, and pretty
> much the whole room, in a mirror while he was in the back room
> "talking with his manager." No one else was in the room - he was
> watching TV for a bit, while we were supposed to mull over his coming
> counter-offer.
That's very typical. The enforced and lonely waiting is what breaks people,
especially if they've made the fatal mistake of /really wanting/ that car.
Sometimes they ask for your credit card (ostensibly so they can ring up the
deposit on it should you buy), which is another "break" trick: You're not
going to walk out while they have your credit card. So I simply refuse to
hand it over.
The last time a salesman tried leaving me alone, I forced myself to relax
to the point where I almost fell asleep. I figured it would probably rattle
the salesman to find me asleep. I got my price, anyway.
> When he came back out and said the deal was rejected, I left.
You did the right thing. There are too many dealerships out there to waste
time on one that doesn't want your business. Even if you made a mistake
this time by offering too little, you can fix that at the next dealership.
My approach is to simply get on-the-road prices. I take care of my own
financing, and tell them there's no trade. Keep it simple. Make sure the
salesman knows that as soon as you find the car you want at a price within
your budget, you /are/ buying. The smell of a sale is catnip to salesmen,
which tends to work in your favor.
--
Tegger
Tegger
news:d79cdab94496ddd3...@tioat.net:
> On Sat, 12 Jun 2010 23:02:42 +0000 (UTC), Tegger wrote:
>
>> Then you spend the better part of an hour in purgatory while the
>> salesman and his manager try their very best to high-pressure you
>> into caving-in and signing for a higher price than they quoted.
>
> What I do is go to Car Bargains (checkbook.com)
Actually you go to checkbook.ORG.
Checkbook.com is a "parked" domain used as an advertising site.
The concept of checkbook.org is intriguing, and I'd never heard of it
before. They're US-based, and there's no mention of Canada (where I live)
on their site.
How do they get paid for what they do?
<snip>
>
> WHy would anyone spend an hour haggling with a salesman?
The haggling is all done on their side, not mine.
I have their quote, which pins down the price. Now all I need to do is get
them to /sign/ for that amount. It normally takes the salesman and his
manager a while to realize that I will not budge from the quoted amount, no
matter what they do to try and wear me down.
<snip>
--
Tegger
aemeijers
Rod Speed knows mindless rather well- he lives and breathes it every day.
George
> "D. Ohl"<do...@Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote in
> news:d79cdab94496ddd3...@tioat.net:
>
>> On Sat, 12 Jun 2010 23:02:42 +0000 (UTC), Tegger wrote:
>>
>>> Then you spend the better part of an hour in purgatory while the
>>> salesman and his manager try their very best to high-pressure you
>>> into caving-in and signing for a higher price than they quoted.
>>
>> What I do is go to Car Bargains (checkbook.com)
>
>
>
> Actually you go to checkbook.ORG.
>
> Checkbook.com is a "parked" domain used as an advertising site.
>
> The concept of checkbook.org is intriguing, and I'd never heard of it
> before. They're US-based, and there's no mention of Canada (where I live)
> on their site.
>
> How do they get paid for what they do?
"ORDER NOW
Avoid Hassles & Save Money
Only $200 ($175 for CHECKBOOK Subscribers)"
George
> news:d79cdab94496ddd3...@tioat.net:
>
>> On Sat, 12 Jun 2010 23:02:42 +0000 (UTC), Tegger wrote:
>>
>>> Then you spend the better part of an hour in purgatory while the
>>> salesman and his manager try their very best to high-pressure you
>>> into caving-in and signing for a higher price than they quoted.
>>
>> What I do is go to Car Bargains (checkbook.com)
>
>
>
> Actually you go to checkbook.ORG.
>
> Checkbook.com is a "parked" domain used as an advertising site.
>
> The concept of checkbook.org is intriguing, and I'd never heard of it
> before. They're US-based, and there's no mention of Canada (where I live)
> on their site.
>
> How do they get paid for what they do?
"ORDER NOW
Avoid Hassles & Save Money
Only $200 ($175 for CHECKBOOK Subscribers)"
>
>
D. Ohl
> The concept of checkbook.org is intriguing, and I'd never heard of it
> before. They're US-based, and there's no mention of Canada (where I live)
> on their site.
>
> How do they get paid for what they do?
They get about 200 bucks and they don't actually have to do much.
It's a business I wish I had thought of years ago!
All they do is contact five dealers around you send you two things:
1. Five one-page legal contracts for price over dealer cost
2. A legal definition of dealer cost (itemized by available options)
This definition of dealer cost includeds all available options so, you can
basically "pick your car" off the lot or you can order your car from the
factory - and you refer to item 2 plus item 1 for the total cost.
Now, you are "supposed" to go to the lowest-price dealer ... but ... and
this is a big but ... you don't have to do that:
a. You can cheat and go to any dealer
b. You can STILL bargain if you like.
In fact, I've even given my quote to a friend who wanted a similar car, and
she used my 150-dollar quote (it was less in the olden days) to get her
similar car with her desired options for $400 over dealer cost.
Two of my friends have done this, and all found that the lowest-price
dealer was at the very limit of the legal radius that checkbook.org quoted
- but, all three of us (one was me) simply went to the CLOSEST dealer and
got our car in five minutes (as you noted, if you trade-in and need
financing, then you get back into the miserable stage of haggling where the
fleet manager sends you BACK to the miserable sales department and your
inquisition begins).
I've bought many cars the old-fashioned way, and just one this
new-fashioned way, but, I'll never go back to the old
I-have-to-check-with-my-manager torture ever again!
More in the next post because this is looooong!
Donna Ohl
D. Ohl
Realize there are THREE departments (at least at the foreign car chain that
I bought mine from) that you deal with when you purchase a car this method.
I. There is the cunning sales department
II. There is the helpful customer satisfaction lady
III. There is the busy no-nonsense fleet manager
There are many sales people, and they work every day of the week, mostly
dealing with tire kickers, and they're like sharks when they sense a
serious buyer.
But there's generally only a single customer satisfaction lady, and she
works 9-5 M-F just like the always-on-the-phone fleet manager does.
STEP 1: Select the car you want (including options):
You leave your checkbook at home (repeat: Checkbook at home!) whenever you
talk to the sales people. Visit as many sales people as you like, drive as
many cars as you like, ask as many questions as you like, when dealing with
sales people.
STEP 2: Find where that car exists (desired color and options):
This step is not needed if you're ordering from the factory, but, in my
case, the Japanese factory was reputed to take MONTHS before the car would
be here so I was forced to choose a car off a lot. So, say (as it was in my
case), say that the closest dealer doesn't have the car you want, but some
other dealer does have the car you want, and the best price was from the
farthest dealer. You find out from the closest dealer WHERE the car is
(closest to you), and then you go to THAT dealer to get the car (at the
price of the LOWEST dealer).
STEP 3: Buy the car. This is as easy as arriving on a M-F 9-5 and just
handing the fleet manager who works in a dingy office out in back of the
dealership your contract for the lowest cost (he'll be sitting at a
scratched-up table and a dirty telephone with papers strewn all over the
place ... very UNLIKE the sales department shine and polish).
So, in summary, you have to turn their system on them:
a. Use the sales department to CHOOSE your car (and options)
b. Use the customer satisfaction department to FIND your car
c. Use the fleet manager to BUY your car
Take as long as you want with step (a). The other two steps take only a few
minutes.
Again, nothing stops you from bargaining down from your $400-over-cost
price but be prepared for an abrupt fleet manager as he doesn't want to do
anything but move cars off the lot in as little time as possible. You'll
never see him again so I'd say it's probably worth asking the question (I
didn't bargain further since I had mine $200 UNDER dealer cost ... which
happens because of the aforementioned dealer kickbacks and incentives).
Now, that brings the problem of how accurate the stated dealer cost is.
I looked in KBB and didn't see the dealer cost ... can someone show it to
me for a 2010 Honda Accord, for example?
Rod Speed
>>> Then you spend the better part of an hour in purgatory while the
>>> salesman and his manager try their very best to high-pressure
>>> you into caving-in and signing for a higher price than they quoted.
>>> Your only weapon is the threat of walking out. You must be -- and
>>> explicitly appear to be -- completely unafraid of using that weapon.
>>> The manager won't sign for your price?
>>> Then your asking price is too low. End of story.
>> Its never that mindlessly black and white.
> "Mindless"?
Yep, mindless.
> Try sitting in the salesman's office for an hour while
> he and his manager play vicious mind-games with you.
Irrelevant to how mindless that last para of yours is.
> "Mindless", my ass.
You lard arse is your problem.
> It takes, and I speak from personal experience, considerable
> personal fortitude, savvy, and grit to tough-out the warfare
> wreaked upon the humble buyer in the average new-car dealership.
Not if you have enough of a clue to talk to the manager directly.
> My way is the /only/ way.
Like hell it is.
> Unless you're a many-times repeat customer for that
> salesman, or your buddies own the dealership.
Or the dealership is in a desperate financial situation or you can find one that is.
Rod Speed
> MAS <m...@bbbb.net> wrote in news:hv16nm$ok0$1...@news.datemas.de:
>
>> On 6/12/2010 7:02 PM, Tegger wrote:
>>> Then you spend the better part of an hour in purgatory while the
>>> salesman and his manager try their very best to high-pressure you
>>> into caving-in and signing for a higher price than they quoted.
>>>
>>> Your only weapon is the threat of walking out. You must be -- and
>>> explicitly appear to be -- completely unafraid of using that weapon.
>>>
>>> The manager won't sign for your price? Then your asking price is too
>>> low. End of story.
>>>
>>
>> If any car salesman says he can't authorize the deal, without going
>> to his manager, I walk.
>
>
>
> It appears to be true that the manager needs to sign-off on the deal.
> But it ends up being just one more trick they use to mess with your
> mind and break your resolve.
>
>
>
>> One time, I had a salesman tell me he had to
>> speak to his manager first. I could see his reflection, and pretty
>> much the whole room, in a mirror while he was in the back room
>> "talking with his manager." No one else was in the room - he was
>> watching TV for a bit, while we were supposed to mull over his coming
>> counter-offer.
>
>
>
> That's very typical. The enforced and lonely waiting is what breaks people,
It cant do if you tell them that you are going to walk right now and start doing that.
> especially if they've made the fatal mistake of /really
> wanting/ that car. Sometimes they ask for your credit card
> (ostensibly so they can ring up the deposit on it should you buy),
> which is another "break" trick: You're not going to walk out while
> they have your credit card. So I simply refuse to hand it over.
> The last time a salesman tried leaving me alone, I forced
> myself to relax to the point where I almost fell asleep.
You should have just made it clear that you were going to walk,
like knock on the door where you could see him watching TV
and make it clear that you knew he was watching TV.
> I figured it would probably rattle the salesman to find me asleep. I got my price, anyway.
You would have if your had just walked into the room where you knew he was watching TV.
>> When he came back out and said the deal was rejected, I left.
> You did the right thing. There are too many dealerships out there to
> waste time on one that doesn't want your business. Even if you made a
> mistake this time by offering too little, you can fix that at the
> next dealership.
> My approach is to simply get on-the-road prices. I take care of my own
> financing, and tell them there's no trade. Keep it simple. Make sure
> the salesman knows that as soon as you find the car you want at a
> price within your budget, you /are/ buying. The smell of a sale is
> catnip to salesmen, which tends to work in your favor.
And if you know what they paid for the car, you are in a much better
position to know what price they wont go below, unless they are about
to go bust if they dont get your sale, and that is a rare situation.
Jeff
In the "new car" box, select make and model and select Honda and Accord
from the lists. Enter your zip code. Click "pricing" next to the
picture of the 2010 Accord. Click on the trim level you want from the
list. You will get the list and invoice prices.
Vic Smith
wrote:
>
>Your only weapon is the threat of walking out. You must be -- and
>explicitly appear to be -- completely unafraid of using that weapon.
>
>The manager won't sign for your price? Then your asking price is too low.
>End of story.
That about sums it up.
--Vic
Rod Speed
> Tegger <inv...@invalid.inv> wrote
>> Your only weapon is the threat of walking out. You must be -- and
>> explicitly appear to be -- completely unafraid of using that weapon.
>> The manager won't sign for your price?
>> Then your asking price is too low. End of story.
> That about sums it up.
Nope.
The other obvious possibility is that the manager has decided that you can be conned.
Doesnt mean that is true.
James
> Vic Smith wrote
>
> > Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote
Conned or upsold....
What happens in the business office is the saleperson brings the quote
in and the Sales/Business Manager is calculating how much profit is in
the sale, before they approve the deal. Note that if your car is in
high demand, he will have a minimum profit already in his head. On the
other hand, if your car has been on the lot for 11 months, its a dog
to him and he just wants it gone, so he can order another car that
will turn over faster. He may even sell it at a loss.
What the business manager knows is the incentive packages/rebates from
the manufacturer. In many cases they could sell you some vehicles at
invoice cost and make a good profit from these rebates, in other cases
there are no rebates (high demand cars).
If the business manager thinks the profit is too low, they will strong
arm you into buying things like paint protector, rust proofing etc.
They will try to sell you these in any case, but in some cases, they
push harder. These are the most profitable items in the dealership,
with the highest markups, so if you really want them, bargain hard.
These items may have a margin of 50% or more. They usually count on
you being anxious or tired by this point.
Unless you are in desparate need of a car (never tell a salesperson
that), use your power to walk. It takes a sales manager only a minute
or two to calculate the profit in a deal. If they are deliberately
making you wait, walk, and don't go back.
The profit margins on small cars are also small, not much room to
manouvre. The more expensive cars are more profitable on a percentage
basis. Dealer installable add ons also add to the dealer's profit.
Many dealers make most of their profit from service, so if you have
been a loyal service customer, don't forget to mention that.
James
Rod Speed
>>>> Your only weapon is the threat of walking out. You must be --
>>>> and explicitly appear to be -- completely unafraid of using
>>>> that weapon. The manager won't sign for your price?
>>>> Then your asking price is too low. End of story.
>>> That about sums it up.
>> Nope.
>> The other obvious possibility is that the manager has decided that you can be conned.
>> Doesnt mean that is true.
> Conned or upsold....
> What happens in the business office is the saleperson brings the quote
> in and the Sales/Business Manager is calculating how much profit is in
> the sale, before they approve the deal. Note that if your car is in
> high demand, he will have a minimum profit already in his head. On the
> other hand, if your car has been on the lot for 11 months, its a dog
> to him and he just wants it gone, so he can order another car that
> will turn over faster. He may even sell it at a loss.
What I said in a lot more words.
And the other obvious variable is what those spivs and con men
decide might be possible with a particular potential buyer too.
> What the business manager knows is the incentive packages/rebates
> from the manufacturer. In many cases they could sell you some vehicles
> at invoice cost and make a good profit from these rebates, in other
> cases there are no rebates (high demand cars).
> If the business manager thinks the profit is too low, they will strong
> arm you into buying things like paint protector, rust proofing etc.
Not even possible to do that with a buyer with a clue.
> They will try to sell you these in any case, but in some cases, they
> push harder. These are the most profitable items in the dealership,
> with the highest markups, so if you really want them, bargain hard.
> These items may have a margin of 50% or more. They usually
> count on you being anxious or tired by this point.
> Unless you are in desparate need of a car (never tell a salesperson
> that), use your power to walk. It takes a sales manager only a
> minute or two to calculate the profit in a deal. If they are
> deliberately making you wait, walk, and don't go back.
> The profit margins on small cars are also small, not much room to
> manouvre. The more expensive cars are more profitable on a percentage
> basis. Dealer installable add ons also add to the dealer's profit.
> Many dealers make most of their profit from service, so if you
> have been a loyal service customer, don't forget to mention that.
So Tegger's original line is just plain wrong, as I said.
Mina O.
>> I looked in KBB and didn't see the dealer cost ... can someone show it
>> to me for a 2010 Honda Accord, for example?
>
> In the "new car" box, select make and model and select Honda and Accord
> from the lists. Enter your zip code. Click "pricing" next to the
> picture of the 2010 Accord. Click on the trim level you want from the
> list. You will get the list and invoice prices.
This can't be correct because the "pricing" to the dealership has nothing
to do with the zip code. The only thing the zip code affects is the
destination charges which are independent of the dealer invoice!
Jeff
$.d...@apple.com:
Agreed, it doesn't affect pricing. The zip code is merely for their
marketing purposes to connect you to dealers in your area.
James
> "Mina O." <minaol...@nospamapple.com> wrote in news:km1v488bhs9x
> $....@apple.com:
True.
The Kelly Blue Book is a decent starting point for dealer cost, but
don't assume anything.
KBB will tell you what the dealer list is, not the invoice price, nor
any other incentives.
The manufacturer has preferential pricing based on the volume a dealer
sells, and thats The manufacturer will also offer incentives (rebates,
discounts) that have time limits. The manufacturer may look at their
sales rate and offer a lower than list price. Its complicated. Trust
me I know from my work that often dealers have a hard time doing a
calculation of what the profit is on a vehicle, given all the factors.
The other thing to look out for are admin fees - these are totally at
the discretion of the dealer. Supposedly they are the fees to do the
paperwork and register the vehicle. Some dealers (not many) charge
zero, other may charge hundreds of dollars.
James
MAS
> The other thing to look out for are admin fees - these are totally at
> the discretion of the dealer. Supposedly they are the fees to do the
> paperwork and register the vehicle. Some dealers (not many) charge
> zero, other may charge hundreds of dollars.
>
> James
These are sometimes negotiable - it never hurts to ask and, depending on
how bad the salesman is trying to meet his quota, you might be
pleasantly surprised.
Marsha
E. Meyer
<m...@bbbb.net> wrote:
As long as you negotiate the "drive out" or "bottom line" price (the amount
that you are going to write on your check), you don't care about the various
fees and taxes and things. As far as you are concerned its all included.
I have yet to encounter a dealer that will not negotiate to a bottom line
price. Just make sure you've done your homework before you get there so you
know what the answer needs to be.