help finding a modem & router lockable box
Mosh
I have a weird situation in my home with a DSL line modem and router
where we would like to have the modem and router working from and
located in a locked box, probably around 10" deep, 8 to 10" hight and
about 4 to 5" high. Hopefully, not interfering with the signal too
much (it doesn't have to go so far anyway). I was trying to google for
it but did not find anything. Maybe there is something out there that
will suffice us even if it was meant for something else. Would anyone
have any ideas or leads that I could follow?
Thanks!
Mosh
> Hello.
>
> I have a weird situation in my home with a DSL line modem and router
> where we would like to have the modem and router working from and
> located in a locked box, probably around 10" deep, 8 to 10" hight and
> about 4 to 5" high. Hopefully, not interfering with the signal too
Actually, I meant 4 to 5" wide.
Mosh
or 2. possibly buy some kind of tupperware container where I could cut
some holes to lock the lid to the container and some more holes for
the cable to go in. I don't need the greatest security, just a bit of
a deterrent and indication that all is okay.
Gary Heston
Try searching for "home automation enclosure", where you can find something
like the surface-mount boxes here:
http://www.gruber.com/GruberInd/pg.asp?FeatureID=101
or:
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&Webpage_ID=3&CAT_ID=65&ObjectGroup_ID=660&SO=2
Gary
--
Gary Heston ghe...@hiwaay.net http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/
Yoko Onos' former driver tried to extort $2M from her, threating to
"release embarassing recordings...". What, he has a copy of her album?
Logan Shaw
> I have a weird situation in my home with a DSL line modem and router
> where we would like to have the modem and router working from and
> located in a locked box, probably around 10" deep, 8 to 10" hight and
> about 4 to 5" high. Hopefully, not interfering with the signal too
> much (it doesn't have to go so far anyway).
Does "interfering with the signal" indicate you are putting a wireless
access point in there? I would think putting an antenna in a Faraday
cage isn't going to help out much. I would look into some material
other than metal.
> I was trying to google for
> it but did not find anything. Maybe there is something out there that
> will suffice us even if it was meant for something else. Would anyone
> have any ideas or leads that I could follow?
A toolbox? Many of them are designed with a spot for a padlock.
Here's a Sears one for $15 that is plastic and has a spot for a padlock:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00959317000
It's bigger than you said, but not huge.
I suppose you could also try a lunchbox. :-)
- Logan
Bill
locked.
If you want to prevent wireless from working, get a metal box.
Keep in mind that electronic gizmos generate heat and need ventilation. Be
sure to drill plenty of holes for heat to escape or may damage equipment
(unless you plan to only operate it with the cover open).
"Mosh" wrote in message
Just A User
> Mosh wrote:
>> I have a weird situation in my home with a DSL line modem and router
>> where we would like to have the modem and router working from and
>> located in a locked box, probably around 10" deep, 8 to 10" hight and
>> about 4 to 5" high. Hopefully, not interfering with the signal too
>> much (it doesn't have to go so far anyway).
>
> Does "interfering with the signal" indicate you are putting a wireless
> access point in there? I would think putting an antenna in a Faraday
> cage isn't going to help out much. I would look into some material
> other than metal.
Aren't external antennas available? Put the modem and the router in the
box and run an antenna to an outside the box location.
Mosh
> In article <1185149478.412230.177...@w3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com>,
> Try searching for "home automation enclosure", where you can find something
> like the surface-mount boxes here:
>
> http://www.gruber.com/GruberInd/pg.asp?FeatureID=101
Hi and thanks for the responses. I went hunting around Walmart
yesterday and entertained the toolbox idea amongst others. I finally
settled on 2 Sterilite CD/DVD boxes (for the curious here is a pic
from their website http://www.sterilite.com/ProductDetail.html?ProductId=62&Section=Storage)
which cost me less than $2 for both. I then bought a small 5 foot
chain from The Home Depot for $1.75 which chained the boxes together
nicely. Finally I splurged on a combination lock for just under $6.
All up less than $10 (I could have gotten a cheaper lock and kept
costs to under $5 but I liked not having to worry about a key and my
security needs aren't that great that I have to worry about cracking a
combination).
Since the box is designed with holes all over, it is perfect to get
cables into it and the signal strength has remained uneffected from
what I can tell which is great. Also, you can see the modem and router
lights from the outside and it also has a nice appearance.
As an aside, all this was unnecessary until we switched from Verizon
to another DSL and phone provider. Verizon's dsl modem and router
combo was nice in that you could have one level of passworded access
for changing the router settings and the router interface had a
connection link for logging in and out of the internet. So that even
if someone physically or wirelessly connected to the network, they
could not access the internet or anything without connecting via
username and password to Verizon. Now we changed to another provider
which has some advantages in terms of speed and phone bells and
whistles, but has no ability to log out (and requires separate modem
and router). From the router side of things I just set up all the
security I could like WPA-PSK, MAC address list and password needed to
change settings. The only thing remained was to prevent access by
physically attaching a laptop to the router or modem directly and that
was done as per my solution above. The only annoyance we have is that
connecting to the network on our PC adds the network to a profile list
automatically so that it can conveniently be connected to next time
without doing a thing (or by double clicking if so desired) meaning
that each time disconnecting involves having to remove the network
from the profile list. It only takes a few seconds more but is
annoying anyway. The price I pay.
Anyway. Thanks once again.