Frugal Car Preventive Maintenance
Deadend
engine. It is in pretty good shape, and the loan was paid off quite
some time ago, but I’d like to extract as much life out of it as
I can, being the frugal person I’ve become. It has 102,000 miles
on it, but the engine runs strong, particularly because of how
I’ve kept it up. I’ve had it since it was practically new
(like 15,000 miles on it), and I have done a lot of routine
maintenance done to it over it’s life span, the standard things,
oil, air filters, fuel filters, breather filters, etc. I have also
recently replaced the following parts, some out of necessity, others
as preventative measures: radiator, coolant temperature sensor,
thermostat, all hoses, all belts, fuel injectors, PCV valve, cap,
rotor, and wires. So here are my questions:
1) Someone had suggested to me to replace the oxygen sensor, and it is
easily located for removal. However, I was surprised to find out that
the little bugger was pretty expensive (like $40-$50), so I
didn’t do it. Later I thought about it, and I wonder if I should
have. Would it help with fuel economy? How would I know if it is worn
out? Is it just something that needs to be replaced every so often?
2) I recently replaced the radiator, as it had a leak and was getting
worn out, too much so to weld myself. I was thinking later about all
the other work I’ve done on the cooling system, all the hoses,
the sensor, and thermostat. I kind of regretted in some way not
thinking of replacing the water pump while I was doing the radiator
job. It would have been a little extra work, but with all the coolant
already out of the car, not too much more. How much more do you think
I’ll get out of the pump now that I’m at 102k? Should I
take a Saturday and replace it for preventative reasons?
3) It is a manual transmission. I wonder about the life span of the
clutch. As I said at about 102k, how much more life can I expect to
get out of it? That isn’t something I would do myself. If I
should do it, are there any recommendations of where (national chain
store or local to SF Bay Area) I should get it done?
Thanks in advance for all of your help,
D-D
Mikie
...O2 sensor...
.. maybe $17.00 at JC Whitney
My experience is ;
the Check Engine Light lights when o2 sensor goes bum -- older low use car
at about 70k miles when one failed.
don't know for sure .>. maintenance replacing it may possibly improve the
onboard computers tune settings provided the sensor is whacking it out
somewhat from age. Not always an easy replacement, exhaust pipe sensor
bung fittings tend to rust/corrode and need cutting out and a new bungie
thing welded on or usually just a new exhaust pipe.
"Deadend" <deadend...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:5a25c106.01061...@posting.google.com...
: I have a 1992 Dodge Shadow ES that was built with a Mitsubishi 3.0 V6
Timothy J. Lee
Deadend <deadend...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Would it help with fuel economy? How would I know if it is worn
>out? Is it just something that needs to be replaced every so often?
The oxygen sensor affects emission control systems.
>3) It is a manual transmission. I wonder about the life span of the
>clutch. As I said at about 102k, how much more life can I expect to
>get out of it?
The lifetime of a clutch depends on how it is driven.
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Timothy J. Lee
Unsolicited bulk or commercial email is not welcome.
No warranty of any kind is provided with this message.
Ron Miller
: 1) Someone had suggested to me to replace the oxygen sensor, and it is
: easily located for removal. However, I was surprised to find out that
An old sensor has a much slower response time. An old / practically bad
one means the computer is making assumptions about mixture and that's
not optimum.
It's worth changing just to be sure.
NAPA might have them for less. (They are about $35 for my vehicles)
: 2) I recently replaced the radiator, as it had a leak and was getting
: worn out, too much so to weld myself. I was thinking later about all
: the other work I’ve done on the cooling system, all the hoses,
: the sensor, and thermostat. I kind of regretted in some way not
: thinking of replacing the water pump while I was doing the radiator
Quite good thinking. Thermostat and water pump ought to be changed about
100k if they are original. The pump IS a wear-out item.
Thermostats and radiator caps are such cheesy items that it's a surprise
when they work right for a few years. Watch them carefully.
Starter, alternator and fuel pump are also wear-out items.
: 3) It is a manual transmission. I wonder about the life span of the
: clutch. As I said at about 102k, how much more life can I expect to
: get out of it? That isn’t something I would do myself. If I
: should do it, are there any recommendations of where (national chain
: store or local to SF Bay Area) I should get it done?
Clutch life is really hard to measure. You could get 250k out of one, or
25k. Mostly it depends on the type of driving. How many start-from-stops
per mile?
I don't think going to a national chain is any help. It depends entirely
upon the mechanic who does the work. Good ones can be found alongside
bad ones.
Ron
'84 Cherokee
'85 Chevy
' 64 Unimog
Deadend
> (Ron Miller)wrote:
> An old sensor has a much slower response time. An old / practically bad
> one means the computer is making assumptions about mixture and that's
> not optimum.
>
> It's worth changing just to be sure.
>
> NAPA might have them for less. (They are about $35 for my vehicles)
I have noticed every once in a while it jets jerky when I'm just
starting to drive it, and it goes away when it heats up. Maybe that's
the O2 sensor. I will go ahead and replace that after all.
I looked up one JC Whitney but the seem to have generic parts like
"One wire oxygen sensor, for American cars." American cars? That's a
little too broad of a spread for a part, I like mine a little more
specialized, just to make sure it works properly. Plus, they were
still fairly expensive from $30-60, including shipping. I could just
try Napa, as Ron suggested.
> Quite good thinking. Thermostat and water pump ought to be changed about
> 100k if they are original. The pump IS a wear-out item.
> Thermostats and radiator caps are such cheesy items that it's a surprise
> when they work right for a few years. Watch them carefully.
Yeah, I am kicking myself for that one. I dunno what I was thinking.
The coolant was out and all...Well, I'll put the water pump on the
list.
> Starter, alternator and fuel pump are also wear-out items.
Yikes! Good suggestion, but that's lots of bucks for parts. Maybe I'll
do the alternator and water pump at the same time, because I'd have to
take off the belt for each one anyway...I'll wait on the starter. That
thing is so easy, if it dies I'll just walk to the auto parts store
and buy one and have it on there in an hour. Plus I have AAA Plus (no
affiliation) and that gives me a decent towing range. When the
radiator went I had them tow it quite a few miles to my house at no
additional charge. Good piece of mind insurance, I think.
Hey, does anyone know of a good place to order parts online? I've
never found a place, and I've looked. I mean like new or reconditioned
alomost OEM parts...
Deadend wrote:
> That isn’t something I would do myself.
I do not know what the heck happened to those apostrophes. Soem kind
of a problem with Google, I guess. Sorry about that.
Ron wrote:
> Clutch life is really hard to measure. You could get 250k out of one, or
> 25k. Mostly it depends on the type of driving. How many start-from-stops
> per mile?
Start and stop distance has varied. At one point I drove mostly long
distances, probably for the first half of the time period that I owned
the car. Say, 1993-1998. Now, I've moved to a more urban area, and
everything is closer, including my work, so it gets a lot more start
and stops per mile. I know that isn't optimal for the car, but I have
to admit, it is kinda nice for me. But with no salt on the roads, no
snow or ice, and no extreme heat (except when I drive through the
Central Valley withe the A/C blasting), the car should be enjoying
life here in the Bay Area as much as I am!
> Ron
> '84 Cherokee
> '85 Chevy
> ' 64 Unimog
What's a Unimog?
-Deadend
Mikie
past experience...
MGB,,, gets about 50,000 miles on clutch
wife's MGB clutch 12,000 miles,,, same city and she's a pokey driver
"georges" <geor...@altavista.com> wrote in message
news:9gdrdg$88bak$2...@ID-41741.news.dfncis.de...
: x-no-archive: yes
: remo...@sonic.net (Timothy J. Lee) wrote:
: >In article <5a25c106.01061...@posting.google.com>,
: >Deadend <deadend...@hotmail.com> wrote:
:
: >>3) It is a manual transmission. I wonder about the life span of the
: >>clutch. As I said at about 102k, how much more life can I expect to
: >>get out of it?
:
: >The lifetime of a clutch depends on how it is driven.
:
: So true, mine has 280,000 miles on it
:
: --georges
:
:
:
Ray L
> maintenance done to it over it’s life span, the standard things,
> oil, air filters, fuel filters, breather filters, etc. I have also
> recently replaced the following parts, some out of necessity, others
> as preventative measures: radiator, coolant temperature sensor,
> thermostat, all hoses, all belts, fuel injectors, PCV valve, cap,
> rotor, and wires. So here are my questions
timing belt?
Flippant Frank
>easily located for removal. However, I was surprised to find out that
>the little bugger was pretty expensive (like $40-$50), so I
>didn’t do it. Later I thought about it, and I wonder if I should
>have. Would it help with fuel economy? How would I know if it is worn
>out? Is it just something that needs to be replaced every so often?
If it ain't broke then don't phuck with it.
>2) I recently replaced the radiator, as it had a leak and was getting
>worn out, too much so to weld myself. I was thinking later about all
>the other work I’ve done on the cooling system, all the hoses,
>the sensor, and thermostat. I kind of regretted in some way not
>thinking of replacing the water pump while I was doing the radiator
>job. It would have been a little extra work, but with all the coolant
>already out of the car, not too much more. How much more do you think
>I’ll get out of the pump now that I’m at 102k? Should I
>take a Saturday and replace it for preventative reasons?
Did you ever flush the radiator? You should be doing this every 2-3
years.
>3) It is a manual transmission. I wonder about the life span of the
>clutch. As I said at about 102k, how much more life can I expect to
>get out of it? That isn’t something I would do myself. If I
>should do it, are there any recommendations of where (national chain
>store or local to SF Bay Area) I should get it done?
You could get 250k out of your clutch so I wouldn't worry about it.
Is it hydraulic or cable operated? If cable operated, you need to
periodically adjust it.
Gary Heston
>>1) Someone had suggested to me to replace the oxygen sensor, and it is
>>easily located for removal. However, I was surprised to find out that
>>the little bugger was pretty expensive (like $40-$50), so I
>>didn’t do it. Later I thought about it, and I wonder if I should
>>have. Would it help with fuel economy? How would I know if it is worn
>>out? Is it just something that needs to be replaced every so often?
>If it ain't broke then don't phuck with it.
[ ... ]
Wrong; O2 sensors wear out or get clogged. They should be replaced
at manufacturers' recommended intervals (usually 30,000 miles) or
at least every 50,000 miles.
There are Bosch replacement parts available from Advance Auto Parts
and similar places; I put one in my '88 RX-7 for about $30, where the
factory part would have been around $125. I did have to cut the connector
off the old sensor and solder it to the new one, but for the cost difference
I thought it was a minor inconvenience.
Gary
--
Gary Heston ghe...@hiwaay.net
This item has been intercepted by the Echelon Project. So have all
of yours....
Ray L
Gary Heston <ghe...@HiWAAY.net> wrote in message
news:tiqapgr...@corp.supernews.com...
> According to Flippant Frank <po...@tothegroup.please>:
> >>1) Someone had suggested to me to replace the oxygen sensor, and it is
> >>easily located for removal. However, I was surprised to find out that
> >>the little bugger was pretty expensive (like $40-$50), so I
> >>didn’t do it. Later I thought about it, and I wonder if I should
> >>have. Would it help with fuel economy? How would I know if it is worn
> >>out? Is it just something that needs to be replaced every so often?
>
> >If it ain't broke then don't phuck with it.
> [ ... ]
>
> Wrong; O2 sensors wear out or get clogged. They should be replaced
> at manufacturers' recommended intervals (usually 30,000 miles) or
> at least every 50,000 miles
O2 sensor operation is monitored by the computer. When it gets
sluggish enough, the warning will light.
But if your check engine light is burned out from running
continuously for three years, you won't know the difference.
Cap'n Dan
> But if your check engine light is burned out from running
> continuously for three years, you won't know the difference.
Real cars don't have check engine lights.
Dan
--
EARTH
smog | bricks
AIR -- mud -- FIRE
soda water | tequila
WATER
Ray L
Cap'n Dan <d...@angband.org> wrote in message
news:9gkc5p$9vo$3...@news-int.gatech.edu...
> Ray L <rayln...@yahoo.com> gave me something I can root to:
>
> > But if your check engine light is burned out from running
> > continuously for three years, you won't know the difference.
>
> Real cars don't have check engine lights.
>
> Dan
My Skoda had a czech engine light.
It was on by default.
Dennis
wrote:
LOL. Nice one.
Dennis (evil)
--
"There is a fine line between participation and mockery" - Wally
Cap'n Dan
> My Skoda had a czech engine light.
> It was on by default.
Hehehe! I kind of like some of the newer Skodas. Wish we could get them
here.
Dan
--
If you love something set it free. If it doesn't come back to you,
hunt it down and kill it.
Ken Jones
2. Chrysler makes garbage radiators. They like to rot from the bottom
up. I have had three Chrysler and all the radiators went bad!
3. Drive it till it slips and change the trans oil with synthetic (sp)
now.
Good luck.
Deadend
Of course, I should ignore the responses from people that didn't read
the original post. Such as "did you replace the timing belt?" when the
original post says all belts were replaced.
Also to respond to the radiator comment someone made, I just had it go
out on me, at 103k miles, original radiator since 1992. I used to live
in a area that dumped tons of salt on the roads, which caused rapid
early corrosion on radiators of other makes of cars I owned, such as a
few Ford products. However, I won't go around saying that every Ford
will have bad radiators, regardless of how often you see people trying
to stereotype one brand over another (such as in this thread). I think
that the milage I got out of the radiator in my Dodge was reasonable.
If I don't have to replace the aftermarket one until 206k, I'll be a
happy man.
To respond to the assertions that the engine light will light if my
oxygen sensor is bad, it depends entirely on how the computer was
designed. In some makes of cars, I'm sure that may be true, the light
may come on when the O2 sensor is dead, but if I remember reading my
manual correctly, it isn't the case in mine. My manual had a logic map
of all of the things the computer is set up to monitor. My engine's
computer only responds to specific situations such as a high temp,
engine stall, and so on. Still, I have a feeling that the oxygen
sensor is going from how my car is behaving, so I'm going to look into
it.
One more time, though, I'm going to ask if there is anyplace to order
OEM or like quality parts online. The main reason for me is that
living in the Bay Area, a lot of the auto parts stores are very
expensive. They have to pay for the real estate and so on. It's like
this for many types of purchases, so I do more shopping online than
the average person. It's just more frugal. So if you all know of a
good place online, let me know. The searches I have done have not
produced the kind of parts dealer that I am looking for.
Thanks,
D-D
Tock
Deadend wrote
< s n i p >
>One more time, though, I'm going to ask if there is anyplace to order
>OEM or like quality parts online. The main reason for me is that
>living in the Bay Area, a lot of the auto parts stores are very
>expensive. They have to pay for the real estate and so on. It's like
>this for many types of purchases, so I do more shopping online than
>the average person. It's just more frugal. So if you all know of a
>good place online, let me know. The searches I have done have not
>produced the kind of parts dealer that I am looking for.
Check out http://www.jcwhitney.com/ . . . you can e-mail 'em and get a price
quote on anything that isn't listed in their catalog. Pretty good . . .
--Tock
Roger Fletcher
the phone help, never get their nose up in the air or make you feel stupid if
you have trouble with describing what you want. Better prices on most items
than anywhere else.
Roger