Interior Painting
Mary Ellen
entire house by the end of the year). Anyway, for my first project, I
bought top of the line Sears Paint. I still had to do two to three
coats. What is the difference in the grades? Will good be equal to
best, if I am willing to do more than one coat?
Also if I find a "designer" color, (say from Martha Stewart's line,
or Ralph Lauren) can I take that paint chip and have it copied into a
cheaper paint?
On an interesting frugal sidenote, my inlaws recently tried to buy
discounted "returned" paint at Sears. Sears said that they stopped
selling their returned paint, because people would buy the specialized
paint, return it, and then repurchase it at the discounted price.
Now, Sears donates their returned paint to schools, and various
charitable organizations.
Ken Jones
Spend the time on prep-work and try the middle of the road stuff. You
might want the best if it is for outside use or will get expoised(sp) to
water. I.E. Bathroom.
Good luck!
P.S. get 5 gal sizes since you will use a far amount of it.
Chloe
news:689a8c65.02021...@posting.google.com...
Better quality paint contains more pigment, for one thing. Painting is such
a work-intensive undertaking that I recommend you buy the best quality you
can afford. Interestingly, over the years Porter's name has come up time and
time again in talking with professionals, so often that I'm now convinced
that's probably the best paint made. But I've personally had good luck with
what I think is Lowe's store brand (named something like American
Traditions, don't remember exactly).
I suspect if you want to do two coats of cheaper paint instead of one of a
better paint, you'll end up spending more in the long run.
Yes, you can have paint matched to a chip from a different line of paint.
A caution in that regard: I had Lowe's mix up a color for me, and being
frugal didn't want to buy more than I actually needed for the job. So I
carefully wrote the formula down and when I ran out, went back for another
gallon. Only after it was up and dry did I realize it didn't match. Too late
I learned from the people in the paint department that there's a certain
margin of error allowed on the part of the basic colors they put in the mix,
and evidently when a new batch came in it was not an exact match with what
they'd used before, even though the formula was the same.
For people who might be willing to paint the entire inside of their house
off-white you can save quite a bit of money buying those custom-mixed
rejects. You can either paint different rooms slightly different colors or
buy several gallons of slightly different colors and mix them all in a large
pail.
If you're painting the entire inside of your house, don't skimp on quality
when it comes to your brushes and rollers. It really does make a difference.
C., who has not only done a lot of interior painting but has spent more time
with professional painters than I like to think about <g>.
Elizabeth Jones
Mary Ellen <Rubberb...@5chandlers.net> wrote:
>I am currently painting the interior of my house, (I will do the
>entire house by the end of the year). Anyway, for my first project, I
>bought top of the line Sears Paint. I still had to do two to three
>coats. What is the difference in the grades? Will good be equal to
>best, if I am willing to do more than one coat?
> Also if I find a "designer" color, (say from Martha Stewart's line,
>or Ralph Lauren) can I take that paint chip and have it copied into a
>cheaper paint?
I'm not sure you can find much cheaper paint than Kmart's, which
is where you will find the Martha Stewart paint.
--
----------------------------------------
send the beagles on a rampage
----------------------------------------
Mom
>
> This one coat idea is a sales thing!
I'll second that one! We have tried the one coat paints but have
found two coats are geneally needed.
>
> Spend the time on prep-work and try the middle of the road stuff. You
> might want the best if it is for outside use or will get expoised(sp) to
> water. I.E. Bathroom.
I think a paint job is only as good as the underlying prep work. If
you take your time and do the prep right, the paint job will look
great! We used a special bathroom paint that has mould inhibitor in
it. Unfortunately, this paint is thinner so we needed three coats.
It was also a high odour paint. The finished results were worth it,
though.
>
> Good luck!
>
> P.S. get 5 gal sizes since you will use a far amount of it.
We bought 5 gal pails for our main colour. It was cheaper than buying
5 separate containers. However, this only works if you are painting a
couple of rooms the same colour and many people don't do that.
JoelnCaryn
>best, if I am willing to do more than one coat?
This depends on where you're using it. I'd use lower-quality primer or Kilz
(if the wall is greasy or has ink stains, you'll need Kilz to block those spots
back anyway) for the first coat, and the top-quality stuff for the last coat.
Higher quality interior paint is generally more resistant to dings, scratches,
grease, mildew, etc. than the lower end stuff. (If there's a chance you react
to fungicides, you might want to check what Sears is using in their paint for
that purpose -- most paint has fungicide to combat mildew, and my mom reacts to
some of it.) The higher quality paint is therefore more necessary in baths,
kitchens, and high-traffic areas, and unnecessary in guest closets...
You might have needed to do two to three coats because you were painting over
glossy paint. If you're painting over glossy, it helps to scratch up the
surface a bit, so the paint can grab better. (A quick coat of a primer like
Kilz also works well for this.) Glossy over glossy just slips all over the
place and leaves streaky patches.
> Also if I find a "designer" color, (say from Martha Stewart's line,
>or Ralph Lauren) can I take that paint chip and have it copied into a
>cheaper paint?
Yes. Getting a good match depends on the skill of the paint guy. :-) Ask
around -- lots of people are very good at this. (The guy at one particular
Frazee here is *really* good. Trainees are often not so good yet.)
> On an interesting frugal sidenote, my inlaws recently tried to buy
>discounted "returned" paint at Sears. Sears said that they stopped
>selling their returned paint, because people would buy the specialized
>paint, return it, and then repurchase it at the discounted price.
Hmmm. FWIW, Home Despot still had returned paint for sale in July...
--
Caryn
Be nice to your neighbor. Be hell to his ideas.
Alpha Male
"JoelnCaryn" <joeln...@aol.comfortable> wrote in message
news:20020215122856...@mb-fp.aol.com...
Boy., this broad is sharp:)
I never bothered with "Kilz", just used any cheap paint for the bottom coat
(s?), saving the good paint for last coat. Don't know about M.Stewart paint,
but it seems to me, if a product requires a celebrity endorsement, must not
stand on it's own merits? I agree with Grouchy, Porter paint, or
Sherwin-Williams. (in early 1900's Sherwin was the first to concoct a
ready-made house paint. People used to have to buy the ingredients, then mix
their own)
Dennis
wrote:
>I never bothered with "Kilz", just used any cheap paint for the bottom coat
>(s?), saving the good paint for last coat. Don't know about M.Stewart paint,
>but it seems to me, if a product requires a celebrity endorsement, must not
>stand on it's own merits? I agree with Grouchy, Porter paint, or
>Sherwin-Williams. (in early 1900's Sherwin was the first to concoct a
>ready-made house paint. People used to have to buy the ingredients, then mix
>their own)
I maintain rentals, so I have learned the hard way not to scrimp on
paint. I usually buy Sherwin Williams paint also, although I think
their quality has slipped a bit in the last 10 years.
And a coat of Kilz is definitely a good idea if there is anything on
the surface that might make the new paint not adhere well, like
grease, crayon or smoke residue. A few bucks extra up front will save
you a lot of trouble down the road.
Dennis (evil)
--
"There is a fine line between participation and mockery" - Wally
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =-----
Mary Ellen
> is where you will find the Martha Stewart paint.
I have heard that Martha Stewart is actually Dutch Boy. MS is sold
at Sears as well.
Victor Smith
wrote:
>I am currently painting the interior of my house, (I will do the
>entire house by the end of the year). Anyway, for my first project, I
>bought top of the line Sears Paint. I still had to do two to three
>coats. What is the difference in the grades? Will good be equal to
>best, if I am willing to do more than one coat?
Consumer Reports does paint testing (one of things it does pretty well),
so you might start there to determine quality vs price.
Personally, I used to ask my brother, who was a painting contractor, but
has retired. I sometimes worked with him.
Paint quality from a particular company can change over the years, so
get the latest info you can.
If I were doing a bunch of painting, like you are, I would call a few
contractors and ask what they are using. You may be surprised that
even if they're not getting your work, the good ones will be happy to brag
about what they use.
You may have to purchase the paint from a paint store or supplier as it
might not be available to hoi polloi. They can mix any color you want.
As someone mentioned, if you're doing non-standard colors, get it mixed
once, and over-estimate what you need.
From experience, one-coat interior paint is but a dream, but a paint that
requires three coats (unless you're covering a dark surface with a light
paint) is not good paint.
One thing that's worth knowing is that there is no good substitute for
masking tape. Get plenty, and use it. Even the pros who can cut it
quickly with a brush use it, because it is faster to tape and guaranteed.
But remove the tape as soon as the paint it opposed has set, so the
adhesive won't get a firm bite on the underlying surface and pull it off.
Don't ever think an unprotected surface won't suffer from spills or roller
spray, and cover them up before you paint.
One more thing. Carefully eyeball, up close, every surface you are about
to paint or tape, carrying a stiff broadknife and a bucket of drywall
finishing mud. Scrape away any previous painter's runs or chips, remove
any nails and such, and with mud on knife wipe the defects flush with the
surface. If you're careful in not overdoing the mud, you won't even have
to sand. You might want to lightly prime those spots.
Makes for a nice finish.
--Vic
Kathy
on 2/15/02 1:03 AM:
> I am currently painting the interior of my house, (I will do the
> entire house by the end of the year). Anyway, for my first project, I
> bought top of the line Sears Paint. I still had to do two to three
> coats.
I've always had to do at least two coats to get the quality paint job I
want. It doesn't matter what the label says. Also, I've found that "flat"
paint requires more coats than that with a light sheen. I use eggshell for
most things and semi-gloss or high gloss in areas that will take abuse.
>What is the difference in the grades?
We bought cheap paint once, and it was a horrible mistake. All that effort
and prep work for a job that looked disgusting and rubbed off when you
touched it. Never again. I buy the best that the paint store has to offer,
which is not necessarily the most expensive. Ask the paint dude at a real
paint store (not a chain store), and follow his recommendations.
> Will good be equal to
> best, if I am willing to do more than one coat?
I can't answer that, I've used cheap stuff once, and the best every time
after that.
> Also if I find a "designer" color, (say from Martha Stewart's line,
> or Ralph Lauren) can I take that paint chip and have it copied into a
> cheaper paint?
Sure can. I brought in a page from a magazine once and had them match the
color. Again, this is at a store that primarily sells paint and paper, not
a big store like Sears.
> On an interesting frugal sidenote, my inlaws recently tried to buy
> discounted "returned" paint at Sears. Sears said that they stopped
> selling their returned paint, because people would buy the specialized
> paint, return it, and then repurchase it at the discounted price.
> Now, Sears donates their returned paint to schools, and various
> charitable organizations.
Amazing the dishonest lengths that some people will go to in order to cheat
someone out of a buck. I wouldn't be able to stand in the room, knowing
what had been done to obtain the paint. (Assuming this story is true, which
is might not be)
Kathy
--
Never confuse motion with action. - Benjamin Franklin
Kathy
5:27 PM:
> And a coat of Kilz is definitely a good idea if there is anything on
> the surface that might make the new paint not adhere well, like
> grease, crayon or smoke residue. A few bucks extra up front will save
> you a lot of trouble down the road.
>
> Dennis (evil)
> --
Dear (evil) Dennis;
Are you saying that you put up a coat of Kilz in place of washing the walls
with TCP before painting? That would be a lot easier than the usual wall
washing that we do before painting.
Kathy
--
Write the bad things that are done to you in the sand, but write the good
things that happen to you on a piece of marble
onyva...@yahoo.com
Pat Meadows wrote:
>
> On Fri, 15 Feb 2002 22:27:48 GMT, dg...@hotmail.com (Dennis)
> wrote:
>
> >
> >I maintain rentals, so I have learned the hard way not to scrimp on
> >paint. I usually buy Sherwin Williams paint also, although I think
> >their quality has slipped a bit in the last 10 years.
> >
> >And a coat of Kilz is definitely a good idea if there is anything on
> >the surface that might make the new paint not adhere well, like
> >grease, crayon or smoke residue. A few bucks extra up front will save
> >you a lot of trouble down the road.
> >
>
> Dennis, is it better to use a coat of Kilz or a coat of
> paint?
>
> We're going - soon, I hope - to be taking the [Horrible Dark
> Turquoise Wallpaper with Pink Hearts and Flowers Border] off
> our living room and hall walls, and painting the walls
> instead.
>
> The wallpaper is a vinyl or plastic kind, not paper, and I
> *think* (hope) it will come off pretty easily.
>
> I actually WANT off-white here. ;) Never thought I'd say
> that, after all those years in apartments, but I think
> off-white is the best color for this particular room, given
> the colors of the carpet, my furniture and curtains, etc.
>
> (I don't actually like the carpet either, but can't afford
> to change it right now. As soon as I can, I'm having every
> single bit of carpeting removed and putting in some kind of
> hard surface floor - vinyl tiles maybe....ANYTHING which
> isn't a dirt and pet-hair collector. Ugh. I detest
> carpeting now that we have one cat and two very long-furred
> dogs. And I have allergies.)
>
> To return to the subject of painting the walls (got carried
> away there!), I might use some kind of sponging effect, but
> subtle - just one color and a slightly darker tone of the
> same color.
>
> Any other assorted tips? I haven't painted a room in about
> 20 years, and DH never has.
>
> Pat
Hi Pat..
Thought I'd give my .02..
I haven't painted for a few years but I'm gearing up to start again.
Kilz [or Bin] is used to cover stains that will bleed through. IIRC, it
is a pigmented shellac. Stains that bleed through are things like inks,
oils and molds. If you don't have any of these problems then you don't
need it.
There is no telling what's under your wallpaper or how well it will come
off. Was there paint before? Did they size properly? I've removed
paper from various walls in the same room. Some came off in a snap.
Some took off a bit of the sheetrock paper. I've rented steam platters
years ago to remove paper. They worked very well. I'm sure something
similar is available these days. If it's a small job, then hothot water
will work as well.
Per finishes..check out all those home improvement sites and links that
are around. I've done a bit of sponging and glazing a while ago. I
have a couple of Jocasta Innes' books. Good inspiration for me. I'm
not sure what the age of your place is. Mine is 100+ years old and the
plaster is, well, a testament to the house's age. I plan on tearing out
a modern [1940's] wall and returning the livingroom to it's original
dimensions this summer. For the walls I plan on just using plain
glazing. This will bring out the patches and swirls in the plaster that
I think are very nice. If you have plaster walls you might consider
glaze without the sponging.
Also..I don't remember if it was someone here or in another group..but a
few years ago somebody wrote about their success with using clear
glazing to make broad stripes on a wall for some pattern. I'm not
making it sound nice right now. But, from their description it sounded
lovely. I guess the point I'm trying to make is don't think of glaze as
just an overall wash. You can play with patterns that will have a nice
effect without adding colors.
PC
JoelnCaryn
>paint?
I'm not Dennis, but... :-)
Kilz is good for binding back anything greasy or oily, like crayon marks or
handprints or the bit of the wall the dog likes to lay against, and good for
ink splashes as well. It also adheres to just about anything, making a grabby
surface which *paint* then adheres to well. A base coat of paint over paint
won't hold back greasy etc. marks, and often, in the case of glossy over
glossy, it skips and requires multiple coats to get good coverage. That's why
the recommendation to wash the wall with trisodium phosphate first is often
made; it roughens up the wall so paint sticks better.
>Any other assorted tips? I haven't painted a room in about
>20 years, and DH never has.
1) Masking tape. Lots of masking tape. 2) Pop the roller in the freezer when
you take breaks, then thaw and continue using it rather than throwing out all
that paint embedded in the roller.
Not to plug anyone in particular (no affiliation etc.) but I've had good luck
with Frazee and Dunn-Williams, especially the latter on exterior surfaces
subject to much UV radiation wrt holding tone for a reasonable length of time.
We spec "Dunn-Williams or equivalent" at work.
Chloe
news:9k4r6uoog5csokmk7...@4ax.com...
><snip>
> To return to the subject of painting the walls (got carried
> away there!), I might use some kind of sponging effect, but
> subtle - just one color and a slightly darker tone of the
> same color.
>
> 20 years, and DH never has.
Have you ever seen the technique which uses vertical stripes of the same
color paint, alternating flat with semigloss? It qualifies as subtle in my
book and looks wonderful. Could be I'm talking about the same thing PC
mentioned in her post, glazing to make the shiny stripes; I've seen it but
never done it.
When you start stripping the wallpaper let us know if you have problems. I
can write a book <g> but might have helpful suggestions.
Mary Ellen
> masking tape. Get plenty, and use it.
Thanks Vic, for your terrific advice. I did go to the Consumer
Reports website, since I do pay for that service.
I wholeheartedly agree with your views on masking tape. The only
other advice I would offer would be to clean off the wall surfaces
before you paint, to remove grease, especially in the kitchen.
Nina
I have 2 kids and 5 nieces and nephews between the ages of 2 and 10. I keep
a big can of primer and paint at all times. Some stains manage to seep thru
5 or 6 coats of paint. Definitely use the stain blocker
--
Blanco corriendo atleta
negro corriendo ratero
blanco sin grado doctor
y el negro es yerbatero.
"Pat Meadows" <p...@meadows.pair.com> wrote in message
news:9k4r6uoog5csokmk7...@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 15 Feb 2002 22:27:48 GMT, dg...@hotmail.com (Dennis)
> wrote:
>
>
> >
> >I maintain rentals, so I have learned the hard way not to scrimp on
> >paint. I usually buy Sherwin Williams paint also, although I think
> >their quality has slipped a bit in the last 10 years.
> >
> >And a coat of Kilz is definitely a good idea if there is anything on
> >the surface that might make the new paint not adhere well, like
> >grease, crayon or smoke residue. A few bucks extra up front will save
> >you a lot of trouble down the road.
> >
>
> Dennis, is it better to use a coat of Kilz or a coat of
> paint?
>
> We're going - soon, I hope - to be taking the [Horrible Dark
> Turquoise Wallpaper with Pink Hearts and Flowers Border] off
> our living room and hall walls, and painting the walls
> instead.
>
> The wallpaper is a vinyl or plastic kind, not paper, and I
> *think* (hope) it will come off pretty easily.
>
> I actually WANT off-white here. ;) Never thought I'd say
> that, after all those years in apartments, but I think
> off-white is the best color for this particular room, given
> the colors of the carpet, my furniture and curtains, etc.
>
> (I don't actually like the carpet either, but can't afford
> to change it right now. As soon as I can, I'm having every
> single bit of carpeting removed and putting in some kind of
> hard surface floor - vinyl tiles maybe....ANYTHING which
> isn't a dirt and pet-hair collector. Ugh. I detest
> carpeting now that we have one cat and two very long-furred
> dogs. And I have allergies.)
>
> To return to the subject of painting the walls (got carried
> away there!), I might use some kind of sponging effect, but
> subtle - just one color and a slightly darker tone of the
> same color.
>
> Any other assorted tips? I haven't painted a room in about
> 20 years, and DH never has.
>
> Pat
MJ
Chloe wrote:
I've had poor luck with Sears, Lowes and (obviously) a low cost KMart brand
(Dutch Boy?). My best, easiest coverage has been with Benjamin Moores. Costs a
bit more per gallon, but it seems to cover best, saving a lot of time in the
long run. A good (excellent) brush is also the best time saver for trim work.
Sewmaster
>
> Ken Jones wrote:
> >
> > This one coat idea is a sales thing!
>
> I'll second that one! We have tried the one coat paints but have
> found two coats are geneally needed.
>
> >
> > Spend the time on prep-work and try the middle of the road stuff. You
> > might want the best if it is for outside use or will get expoised(sp) to
> > water. I.E. Bathroom.
>
> I think a paint job is only as good as the underlying prep work. If
> you take your time and do the prep right, the paint job will look
> great! We used a special bathroom paint that has mould inhibitor in
> it. Unfortunately, this paint is thinner so we needed three coats.
> It was also a high odour paint. The finished results were worth it,
> though.
When we lived in NJ many years ago, the starter home we bought
had a big bedroom that had beautiful dark red carpeting,
gloss electric green walls & gloss black ceiling. (Got a
substantial reduction on the house price from that awful-looking
room.)
We kept the nice carpet & painted the rest. It took 5 coats
of good-quality white paint to get rid of the green & black.
Sewmaster
MJ
Peckish wrote:
> X-No-Archive: Yes
> Alpha Male wrote:
>
> > but it seems to me, if a product requires a celebrity endorsement, must not
> > stand on it's own merits? I agree with Grouchy, Porter paint, or
> > Sherwin-Williams. (in early 1900's Sherwin was the first to concoct a
> > ready-made house paint. People used to have to buy the ingredients, then mix
> > their own)
>
> Not considering the relative quality of the product, Sherwin-Williams
> paint is only available via their own outlets and having had *bad*
> experiences with the only two Sherwin-Williams stores within 60miles of
> my rural house I would never lock myself into such a position again.
>
> (in one case the store manager ignored my req'ts, saying "You don't want
> that" and insisted on selling me a different product. The other store
> said they needed 2 days to match the paint sample I would bring and,
> when pressed, said only they'd try but not guarantee thay could do it
> the same day I brought it in - this 60 miles away! I drove 30miles to
> Home Depot and walked out 20minutes later having done additional
> shopping while I "waited").
>
My most recent experience with SW was in looking for a primer to repaint a peeling
deck (not my choice, but a previous owner painted the deck), I was told primers
are not recommended. Odd, considering I had just seen an oil-based deck primer by
Olympic (?) at another store. Apparently they didn't carry such, so they told me
to skip that step. (I went with the Olympic primer/Benjamin Moore deck paint and
the paint is holding very well).
Don K.
> >Any other assorted tips? I haven't painted a room in about
> >20 years, and DH never has.
>
> 1) Masking tape. Lots of masking tape. 2) Pop the roller in the freezer when
> you take breaks, then thaw and continue using it rather than throwing out all
> that paint embedded in the roller.
1) I haven't used masking tape for painting in years.
For edges, I find it a lot easier to use a special 4x6 inch pad that has
2 nylon rollers along 1 edge. The rollers automatically space the pad the
perfect distance from an inside corner such that the paint gets applied
right up to the corner, making a perfectly straight boundary every time.
You just dip the pad into a shallow roller pan, and you can zip along
and make a perfect 12 foot long boundary without tape.
2) Here's a tip I picked up from a home repair contractor: Just wrap
your roller and brushes in Saran wrap. It's airtight, and the rollers
and brushes will be good for a day or two that way.
Don
Mom
> I've had poor luck with Sears, Lowes and (obviously) a low cost KMart brand
> (Dutch Boy?). My best, easiest coverage has been with Benjamin Moores. Costs a
> bit more per gallon, but it seems to cover best, saving a lot of time in the
> long run. A good (excellent) brush is also the best time saver for trim work.
For anyone in Canada, we have had good luck with Beauti-Tone paints.
We buy ours at Home Hardware, and I'm not sure what other stores carry
this brand.
Mom
>
> JoelnCaryn wrote:
> > >Any other assorted tips? I haven't painted a room in about
> > >20 years, and DH never has.
> >
> > 1) Masking tape. Lots of masking tape. 2) Pop the roller in the freezer when
> > you take breaks, then thaw and continue using it rather than throwing out all
> > that paint embedded in the roller.
>
> 1) I haven't used masking tape for painting in years.
We use a green painters tape made by 3M. We found that masking tape
has a tendency to pull paint off. YMMV
suzn
"Mary Ellen" <Rubberb...@5chandlers.net> wrote in message
news:689a8c65.02021...@posting.google.com...
> entire house by the end of the year). Anyway, for my first project, I
> bought top of the line Sears Paint. I still had to do two to three
> coats.
What were you trying to cover?
I use Sears paints all the time with great 1 coat results.
suzn
> paint?
Not Dennis, but I have dont a lot of house painting over the years.....
Kilz is best for covering spots like ink or grease spots that will bleed
thru most regular paints. I use it in the kitchen on spots where grease
tends to splatter and it works quite well to cover these spots. It really
smells though so use it in well ventilated areas IMO. I found that the Kilz
water base formula doesnt work as well as the regular Kilz.
Mom
>
> "Pat Meadows" <p...@meadows.pair.com> wrote in message
> news:9k4r6uoog5csokmk7...@4ax.com...
> ><snip>
> > To return to the subject of painting the walls (got carried
> > away there!), I might use some kind of sponging effect, but
> > subtle - just one color and a slightly darker tone of the
> > same color.
> >
> > Any other assorted tips? I haven't painted a room in about
> > 20 years, and DH never has.
>
> Have you ever seen the technique which uses vertical stripes of the same
> color paint, alternating flat with semigloss? It qualifies as subtle in my
> book and looks wonderful. Could be I'm talking about the same thing PC
> mentioned in her post, glazing to make the shiny stripes; I've seen it but
> never done it.
It is called shadow striping. We did it in our hall way using
eggshell latex and glaze. It is a lot of prep work and you need to
get the stripes straight. It gives a nice, elegant look. I'm
thinking of doing the little bathroom in the same technique.
suzn
> The living room - which is the heart of the house and the
> room we spend most time in - has really lovely, real wood,
> natural-finished pine paneling to chair rail-height, and the
> trim around the windows is also pine, finished to a natural
> color. And there's a pine strip around the edge where the
> wall meets ceiling, and pine strips in the corner - trim, I
> think you'd call these.
Lucky you!
I love real wood surfaces.....
Most of our doors and trim are still natural wood. I have the old kitchen
cabinets which go all the way to the ceiling and are natural wood. Several
people have asked why I have yet to paint these or replace them.....why
would I? They are dark, but they are still beautiful.....
I have a 4X4 foot area at my front entrance door that is covered in vinyl
flooring. Under that vinyl is wood....thats my next project to rip up the
vinyl and redo the wood to its natural state.
mag...@dev.null
I tried the Kilz waterbased on our cedar plywood panelling, and the
cedar still bled through in some spots even after 2-3 coats. I am
gearing up to try the laquer (alcohol-based)Kilz, but I've read you need
VERY good ventilation when you use it, and it's hard to find a good dry,
comfortable weekend to paint with the windows open.
Mom
I love real wood surfaces too! We have all natural wood trim and
doors in the house that look great with our off white walls. However,
the kitchen cabinets were a dark vaneer with press board interior and
sculptured designed doors that neither matched the wood trim or our
desired look for the kitchen. I painted them with off white melamine
and changed the hardware. The result is a very French Country look.
This worked for us because the cabinets were not solid wood but they
were in very good condition. I wouldn't have painted them had they
been solid wood.
You are certainly lucky to have cabinets that go all the way to the
ceiling and are natural wood! Over top of ours is plastered so that
space is just useless :( It is probably just as well since I have to
get a chair just to reach the top shelves of the cabinets as it is,
but the extra storage space would sure be nice. Good luck on your
floor project!
Joann M. Hnat
> 1) I haven't used masking tape for painting in years.
Me neither. I thought I was going nuts here!
> For edges, I find it a lot easier to use a special 4x6 inch pad that has
> 2 nylon rollers along 1 edge. The rollers automatically space the pad the
> perfect distance from an inside corner such that the paint gets applied
> right up to the corner, making a perfectly straight boundary every time.
> You just dip the pad into a shallow roller pan, and you can zip along
> and make a perfect 12 foot long boundary without tape.
Usually, I just use an angled brush. I've used the thing you're talking
about, which worked well. I've also used the thing with the plastic
shield (can't remember the name.)
I am a very neat painter, but if I do goof, I just use a rag and fix it.
.. Joann
Alpha Male
"Dennis" <dg...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3c6d8a2d...@news1.ltinet.net...
> On Fri, 15 Feb 2002 14:30:33 -0500, "Alpha Male" <nom...@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >I never bothered with "Kilz", just used any cheap paint for the bottom
coat
> >(s?), saving the good paint for last coat. Don't know about M.Stewart
paint,
> >but it seems to me, if a product requires a celebrity endorsement, must
not
> >stand on it's own merits? I agree with Grouchy, Porter paint, or
> >Sherwin-Williams. (in early 1900's Sherwin was the first to concoct a
> >ready-made house paint. People used to have to buy the ingredients, then
mix
> >their own)
>
> I maintain rentals, so I have learned the hard way not to scrimp on
> paint. I usually buy Sherwin Williams paint also, although I think
> their quality has slipped a bit in the last 10 years.
>
> And a coat of Kilz is definitely a good idea if there is anything on
> the surface that might make the new paint not adhere well, like
> grease, crayon or smoke residue. A few bucks extra up front will save
> you a lot of trouble down the road.
>
concerns, maybe cuz there's no wild kids or pets around. A few wild wimmen,
sometimes, but I usually can keep them occupied.....they're not climbing the
walls out of boredom:)
Alpha Male
"suzn" <suzn...@home.com> wrote in message
news:Vyvb8.66758$fK1.4181299@rwcrnsc54...
Dennis
>in article 3c6d8a2d...@news1.ltinet.net, Kathy N-V wrote on 2/15/02
>5:27 PM:
>
>
>> And a coat of Kilz is definitely a good idea if there is anything on
>> the surface that might make the new paint not adhere well, like
>> grease, crayon or smoke residue. A few bucks extra up front will save
>> you a lot of trouble down the road.
>
>Dear (evil) Dennis;
>
>Are you saying that you put up a coat of Kilz in place of washing the walls
>with TCP before painting? That would be a lot easier than the usual wall
>washing that we do before painting.
No, in addition. Some things, like crayon, lipstick or smoke residue
can't be effectively washed off and will bleed through paint if not
sealed first with Kilz or the like.
Alpha Male
"Joann M. Hnat" <j...@shore.net> wrote in message
news:3C6E9090...@shore.net...
need them anymore. Usta use the backing on those legal pads for a
helper...ez-ier than masking everything. I can even do windoz now with the
right brush. Minor boo-boos can be fixed with a razor blade after it dries.
ps: The cheap Big Lots masking tape is usually not very sticky....won't peel
paint off.
JoelnCaryn
So do I, but they don't work so well on 15' vaulted ceilings. :-) Then again,
nothing does.
Jo Anne Slaven
> For anyone in Canada, we have had good luck with Beauti-Tone paints.
> We buy ours at Home Hardware, and I'm not sure what other stores carry
> this brand.
I think Beauti-Tone is the Home Hardware store brand.
We're currently painting the entire interior of our house, and have been
using Beauti-Tone. It's pretty decent stuff. Regular price is about
$30/gallon Cdn, but it can be found on sale for as little as $24/gallon.
Our local Home Hardware store has a "Paint Club." Every time you buy a
gallon of (any kind of) paint, you get a little sticker on a card. Six
stickers, and you get a free gallon. It's a pretty good deal, IMO.
Jo Anne
suzn
"Mom" <m...@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:3C6E9104...@invalid.com...
> You are certainly lucky to have cabinets that go all the way to the
> ceiling and are natural wood! Over top of ours is plastered so that
> space is just useless :( It is probably just as well since I have to
> get a chair just to reach the top shelves of the cabinets as it is,
> but the extra storage space would sure be nice. Good luck on your
> floor project!
I cant reach mine without a stool either.....
So I use the top shelves for things like Christmas dishes,china and other
dishes that I seldom use but dont want to toss out.
suzn
> We have an area like this. Ours is PINK tiles. Pink. :(
> I didn't do anything to deserve pink.
Yikes....pink tiles....what were they thinking?
I have the teeny tiny slate tiles under vinyl floor tiles in my bathroom. I
plan to remove the vinyl tile and see if the slate tiles are still in good
shape. They are a mint green which happens to be my bathroom color. I
havent a clue how to re-grout them if needed but I guess it will be a
learning experience......:)
suzn
"Alpha Male" <nom...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a4m7ob$1a95k$1...@ID-119695.news.dfncis.de...
> Could that be attributed to your poor eyesight???:)
Nope.....guess its just the surfaces I am painting or pure luck......:)
suzn
> No, in addition. Some things, like crayon, lipstick or smoke residue
> can't be effectively washed off and will bleed through paint if not
> sealed first with Kilz or the like.
I have heard heavy cigerette smoke residue will cause the paint to peel off
and/or not stick properly. I have never had that problem but know others
who have.
Mom
> I've had those in bathrooms, the little slate tiles.
> They're nice. I don't know how to regrout either.
I doubt you will see this but if you do, I hope it helps. IIRC, you
regrout the same way as the grouting was done in the first place.
First, check to make sure you really need to regrout. A good cleaning
may be all that is needed. If not, then proceed as follows. Remove
any loose grout. Wash your floor good and allow to dry. Mix your
grout to a creamy consistency the spread over the floor. Use a rubber
scrapper and pull off the extra grout. When there is a light film on
the tile, wipe with damp cloth and allow the grout to dry fully.
Depending on the grout, you may need to seal it with a grout sealer.
This will keep your grout looking nice. There are several sites that
will explain the steps in greater detail, but the process is not
difficult or expensive at all. Check the HGTV web site as there are
several links to walk you through it.
mag...@dev.null
Have you done this before yourself? If so, did you remove all the
grout, or just the loose grout? That is what is keeping me from
regrouting my bathroom--I keep reading you have to remove all the old
grout.
Mom
Hi Maggie,
No, we have not done regrouting but we have done grouting. I would
think that if the grout is badly damaged, then removing it would be
the best course of action. However, if the grout is in fairly good
condition and very clean, I don't see why you couldn't use the method
I posted. DBIL lays tile floors and he told us for our kitchen floor
that we could use the posted method in areas where any loose grout
showed up. It has been a couple of years and there is no signs of
loose grout. We have extra matching grout just in case. If you do
have to remove it, a tool such as a Dumell (sp) will make quick, all
be it dusty, work of it. Another little tip, if the grout is not
loose but just stained, DBIL recommends using sandpaper on the grout.
The takes a little time but it works. Once you have it clean, then
just seal with grout seal.
Mom
>
> On Mon, 18 Feb 2002 17:45:52 -0500, mag...@dev.null wrote:
>
> >Mom wrote:
> >>
> >> Pat Meadows wrote:
> >>
> >> > I've had those in bathrooms, the little slate tiles.
> >> > They're nice. I don't know how to regrout either.
> >>
> >> I doubt you will see this but if you do, I hope it helps.
>
> I used the past tense 'had'.
My apologies. I has been a very long day with a lot of typing so I
missed the passed tense. The old eyes just aren't what they should
be. At any rate, if you should ever have this problem, you might
consider my post as a solution.
mag...@dev.null
Sanding the grout!! What an interesting idea--I'll try it! The grout is
in good shape, except that apparently the people who lived here before
us didn't clean it very often (the house was 23 years old when we bought
it) and there is mildew *in* (not on) parts of the grout (I live in
Florida, where mildew is the state mascot). Not much of it, just enough
to be annoying and to make it look like *we* don't clean it very often
;-).
suzn
> I doubt you will see this but if you do, I hope it helps. IIRC, you
> regrout the same way as the grouting was done in the first place.
> First, check to make sure you really need to regrout. A good cleaning
> may be all that is needed. If not, then proceed as follows. Remove
> any loose grout. Wash your floor good and allow to dry. Mix your
> grout to a creamy consistency the spread over the floor. Use a rubber
> scrapper and pull off the extra grout. When there is a light film on
> the tile, wipe with damp cloth and allow the grout to dry fully.
> Depending on the grout, you may need to seal it with a grout sealer.
> This will keep your grout looking nice. There are several sites that
> will explain the steps in greater detail, but the process is not
> difficult or expensive at all. Check the HGTV web site as there are
> several links to walk you through it.
Thanks mom!
I am going to try doing this as soon as I finish pulling up the old vinyl
floor tile. There seems to be a lot of residue like glue and such stuck on
the slate tile I probably have a lot of scraping and cleaning to do on
the old tile first, but found that heat from a hair dryer helps to loosen
the vinyl easily.