Givi Monorack install question - 4th Gen

[bluelakeside]

Hey guys,

I've got a 4th Gen (97) that I decided to add a Givi Monorack system to allow some carrying capacity.  I had a Givi topcase for about 10 years (when I had a Concours), so I figured it would be nice to keep using it.  Did the install tonight, but I have a concern - the previous owner of this bike added a two brothers exhaust, and the mounting bolt of the exhaust touches the monorack "bar".  Also, the bar end is plastic, and it is about 1/8th of an inch away from the exhaust itself.

Since we use google for groups, I've created a google presentation with some pictures, I hope they work.

https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1RzXX_Yw0Okgr55nXxjKtB464E-P6js43XVWbI1Z9dbY/edit?usp=sharing

Let me know if you can read that document, and then tell me what you think I should do :)

Thanks,
~bluelakeside

[t g]

Hey BLS, nice presentation. The first question that occurs to me is 'how hot is the outer surface of the exhaust can?' My experience with my '01 exhaust is that, with my warm winter gloves on (basically snowboarders gloves) when my hands got cold (virtually all the time the temp is below 40 f.) I could grab the can and feel the heat come through. The leather never caught fire or even smelled like burning. If your situation is similar, I'd not worry about the bar getting too hot. I would do a test on the plastic end piece: while getting the can hot check to see if the plastic starts to soften. If so, remove it. Then try something else to plug the end. Clay? Wood? Epoxy? Metal? Depends on your talent and creativity.
It may not get hot enough to melt; then just leave it and forget about it.

If it gets really hot the paint on the bar may burn, singe or melt. That particular part of the bar could be re-painted with heat resistant paint. I have a Sebspeed (VFRD) clear clutch cover that needed to be painted where it was welded. I took it to a local dude who builds choppers in his garage. He used a satin black paint that matched Honda Black Metal Paint as well as could be expected. The point being heat resisant paint is out there.

About that bolt. If you put an extra washer(s), of sufficient thickness, on the bolt head side of the hanger, the bolt would move away from the bar. Theoretically giving more clearance. Less thread sticking beyoud the nut.

That's a lot of theorizing. I've no idea that any of it is more than B. S. Good luck. I'd be interested to know about your ultimate solution.

Terry     

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[bluelakeside]

Ok, I was thinking along the lines of what Terry said, so I did the following:

1. I bought a 5/16 x 1/4" chrome spacer to put between the Two Brothers mounting bracket and the bike frame.  I tried a 1/2 and 3/8 first, but both were a bit too much.  The more space I add behind the bracket, the more it contacts the rear fairing.

2. Trimmed back the rear fairing where the mounting bracket goes using a dremel.  I trimmed about 1/2" off the rear fairing and it still has some contact, but I fear trimming too much.

3. I'm going to leave the bracket cap on and take it for a ride - I'll see if it gets too hot or would cause any issues.

I also had to trim the rear fairing on the left side a bit to clear the Givi Monorack bracket - easy to do since I had the dremel out already.  I hope the rear fairing doesn't have a limit on the number of times I can "stretch" it around the bike, I took it off and put it back quite a few times.

I'm attaching a picture here of the final product, I'll add more pics to the presentation from the previous post:

https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1RzXX_Yw0Okgr55nXxjKtB464E-P6js43XVWbI1Z9dbY/edit?usp=sharing

Thanks,

~bls

[t g]

BLS. put the chrome spacer on the outside of the mounting bracket. It should move the threads of the bolt away from the rear fairing. The bolt should go through the washer first, then the black hanger, then the exhaust can strap, then the nut. You want the threads of the bolt just showing beyond the bolt.

I wish I could jump on my bike and ride out and show you.

Later pal,

Terry 

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