Thanks for the support on this idea.
Ariel Burman, a (n awesome) researcher
on our team, used Daniel's baseplate model (thanks for sharing) to make a prototype of
a baseplate with a lens sleeve. I'm attaching a design image and a photo
of some pilot 3D prints from a Form2.
Ariel also put SCAD and STL files on
GitHub (https://github.com/moormanlab/miniscope-goodies/).
A couple of thoughts/questions:
1)
We are going to test lens fit soon, but we wanted to get the images and files out there ASAP so we could crowdsource
improvements.
2) Does anyone see concerns with having a flat bottom on the baseplate? Could this scratch the objective lens on the miniscope or be a problem otherwise?
3) Does anyone have ideas on how high up the relay lens should project from the base of the baseplate to optimally interface with the scope? This might have to be experimentally determined, but maybe there are some guidelines about how close you want the relay lens to the objective lens in the scope, etc.
4) The design might need better resolution than we can get on our printer – it might need to be machined, etc. Suggestions along those lines are welcome.
5) Side note - Ariel made ridges in the flanges to make them more "grippy" in dental cement. That’s optional, of course.
Please feel free to give us any feedback and/or download the design files and make improvements. Hopefully we can get this to the point that it’s reliably useful for everyone. We’re excited about the possibility of using these in the lab.
2. I would suggest making the inside pocket of this baseplate slightly deeper than the depth of the Miniscope objective part. This way you can be sure that the Miniscope is repeatably hitting the hard stop of the top of the baseplate instead of sometime pushing the bottom lens against the baseplate. On average there will be around 700um of gap between the top of the relay grin lens and the bottom lens of the Miniscope objective so there is room to add a ~500um gap anyways.
3. As I mentioned above, there normally will be a gap of between 500um to 800um between the top of the relay lens and the bottom of the Miniscope. This exact gap will be dependent on the specs of the relay lens and the precise position of all the internal optics of the Miniscope. I would generally suggest looking in a Miniscope into the baseplate and then positioning the relay lens while testing the imaging on a fluorescent slide. Once things look correct you could glue the grin in place. Likely once you do this a few times there might be a clear repeatable position of the grin lens that works well and you could stop imaging while mounting the grin into the baseplate.
4. We have a couple Form 3 printers in my lab that we can try printing these on. They should work pretty well for initial prototyping and we could ship you back some. In the end, I think machining out of aluminum is the way to go and you can reach out to Shylo (shylostiteler_at_gmail_dot_com) who does almost all machining for all Miniscope parts.
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