Re: [MiniSail: 2057] Digest for minisail@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 1 topic

[Dean Martin]

Monaco rudder plates are indeed classic fail areas.

My solution is to weld a piece of stainless between the two original plates. This avoids twisting of the plates and the original screw holes 'may' be used with slightly larger screws. I have an upgraded rudder plate combo lying around somewhere. Any welder can do this cheaply as thickness and size of the 'between' plate is variable and therefore scrap stainless can be used to make it. If you want me to make some I'll need some extra/spare rudder plates and a couple of weeks termtime around September-October.

Dean

On Thu, 12 Jul 2018, 12:42 , <mini...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

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• New boat... 2756 - 4 Updates

New boat... 2756

robert baker <aquab...@gmail.com>: Jul 11 12:46PM -0700 The number round the mast collar is the official number, so you shouldn't have a problem, order with confidence.

RonnyDG <ro...@struistulpjes.be>: Jul 11 02:39PM -0700 Hello Steve,   If number 2756 is the number on the mast ring it's correct to use it for the sail.   About the issue "the lower gudgeon backing block is a bit soft": Chances are the upper block is cheese as well, actually the original "blocks" are creditcard-sized 15mm(?) plywood, now long deprived of any structural rigidity. The gudgeons take a relative amount of stress and the attachment failing during sailing is a classic Minisail Monaco failure.   On two Monaco's I have reinforced the transom gudgeon area by: - cutting out a portion of the bottomsheet of the hull (about 50 by 60mm), taking the lower gudgeon support out. - cleaning the inside of original debris backing material. - inserting a wooden block snugly fitting the upper and lower decksheet. - Glue (I use epoxy) the cutout back on watertight and screw the gudgeons on in fresh wood.   The procedure is of the same complexity -or simplicity- as going ahead and saw a hatch hole, only it doesn't leave a scar on the deck nor the need of a hatch. After all you don't need a hatch, there is no need for accessing the area once the repair is done. More so, hatches leak, they all do. Especially our foam-filled Minisails can do without extra water intake.   The same goes for the repair you intend to do on the cental area of the hull, try to avoid relying on hatches to finish the repair would be my advice.   Hope to see you in Bowmoor, Greetings, Ronny   On Wednesday, July 11, 2018 at 8:24:42 AM UTC+2, St...@stevewhitby.co.uk wrote:

St...@stevewhitby.co.uk: Jul 11 10:46PM -0700 Thanks Ronny I was considering accessing the lower gudgeon via the transom as this area already has damage, but with the intention of doing the same procedure.   I am planning to have a couple of hatch covers in the cockpit - I have to repair a toestrap mount for one thing - I don't expect the hull to be totally watertight, so my approach is have hatch covers that I leave off when not sailing to help to dry it out....   I plan to reinforce the mast tube (top and bottom ideally), so thats another hole to cut; my current thinking there is 125mm hole between the two deck stringers astern of the mast - that is directly above the damaged area of keel. I did consider cutting in from outside as its much easier to make the repair "invisible" that way, but it will be a lot easier to do the laminating on the keel from the deck.... At the moment the mast tube just leaks a little, but that must mean that it is starting to wear through!   I think the Minisail9000 blog is very useful by the way :-)   Regards.   S.     On Wednesday, July 11, 2018 at 10:39:58 PM UTC+1, RonnyDG wrote:

robert baker <aquab...@gmail.com>: Jul 12 07:03AM +0100 Put a breather hole in too, this needs to be just above the Richmond badge

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[tbm...@talktalk.net]

Dean,

 Good idea. Also the linking piece reduces or spreads  the downward and upward load on the bottom and top tangs. 

Tom, Southampton

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[RUPERT WHELAN]

I drilled right through and bolted them. Not easy, as it turned out the wood block went top to bottom, and was pretty much wet soil.
--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 12/7/18, 'tbm...@talktalk.net' via Minisail <mini...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [MiniSail: 2058] Digest for mini...@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 1 topic
To: mini...@googlegroups.com
Date: Thursday, 12 July, 2018, 18:54

Dean, Good
idea. Also the linking piece reduces or spreads  the
downward and upward load on the bottom and top
tangs. Tom, Southampton



----Original Message----

From: berg...@gmail.com

Date: 12/07/2018 18:05

To: <mini...@googlegroups.com>

Subj: Re: [MiniSail: 2057] Digest for
mini...@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 1 topic



Monaco rudder plates are indeed classic fail

areas.My solution is to weld a piece of stainless

between the two original plates. This avoids twisting of the
plates and the original screw holes 'may' be used
with slightly larger screws. I have an upgraded rudder plate
combo lying around somewhere. Any welder can do this cheaply
as thickness and size of the 'between' plate is
variable and therefore scrap stainless can be used to make
it. If you want me to make some I'll need some
extra/spare rudder plates and a couple of weeks termtime
around September-October.
Dean
On Thu, 12 Jul 2018, 12:42 , <mini...@googlegroups.com>
wrote:






mini...@googlegroups.com


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[St...@stevewhitby.co.uk]

Thanks guy - I have cut a hole in the transom and augered out much of the rotten wood; it wasn’t just a smal pad, it was a “keel” running right up (I think) to the cockpit. I will replace the timber local to the transom, bedded in epoxy. I have currently left the top pad as it seems better and also ,in my experience, the top pintle has less stresses on it.

I will go for the welder plate though - thanks for the offer Dean, I have the gear to weld stainless myself.

As well as the letterbox opening in the transom my boat also has three “hatch covers” - one to sort the mast tube and keel ahead of the cockpit, plus one in each cockpit side so that I can bolt through all the toestrap fittings! Taking no chances!!!

Please keep the suggestions coming.

S.