New boat... 2756

[St...@stevewhitby.co.uk]

Hi All

Thanks again for all the support with questions.

Here is the "new" boat - not in too bad condition overall. The reinforcing timber inside the hull isn't too great - the lower gudgeon backing block is a bit soft and there is a broken section in the "keel" between the mast and cockpit. Some hatch covers are on order! Otherwise just a few cosmetics really (famous last words!).

There was no sail with the boat, I have ordered a battened Morgan sail (sail number 2756 - the number on the mast ring - if anyone knows of this number already being in use then shout quick please!).

I have also just registered with the cvrda for the Bowmoor event - sadly due to prior commitments I won't be able to get there until late Saturday evening, but better late than never.

The Daggerboard is almost complete, rudder isn't too far off either - thanks to all those who provided info - ply for sliding seat is on order.

Getting ready in time will be a bit tight for me, but I hope to see many of you next month. 

Steve.

[robert baker]

The number round the mast collar is the official number, so you shouldn't have a problem, order with confidence.

[RonnyDG]

Hello Steve,

If number 2756 is the number on the mast ring it's correct to use it for the sail.

About the issue "the lower gudgeon backing block is a bit soft": Chances are the upper block is cheese as well, actually the original "blocks" are creditcard-sized 15mm(?) plywood, now long deprived of any structural rigidity.

The gudgeons take a relative amount of stress and the attachment failing during sailing is a classic Minisail Monaco failure.

On two Monaco's I have reinforced the transom gudgeon area by:

- cutting out a portion of the bottomsheet of the hull (about 50 by 60mm), taking the lower gudgeon support out.

- cleaning the inside of original debris backing material.

- inserting a wooden block snugly fitting the upper and lower decksheet.

- Glue (I use epoxy) the cutout back on watertight and screw the gudgeons on in fresh wood.

The procedure is of the same complexity -or simplicity- as going ahead and saw a hatch hole, only it doesn't leave a scar on the deck nor the need of a hatch. After all you don't need a hatch, there is no need for accessing the area once the repair is done. More so, hatches leak, they all do. Especially our foam-filled Minisails can do without extra water intake.

The same goes for the repair you intend to do on the cental area of the hull, try to avoid relying on hatches to finish the repair would be my advice.

Hope to see you in Bowmoor,

Greetings,

Ronny

[St...@stevewhitby.co.uk]

Thanks Ronny

I was considering accessing the lower gudgeon via the transom as this area already has damage, but with the intention of doing the same procedure.

I am planning to have a couple of hatch covers in the cockpit - I have to repair a toestrap mount for one thing - I don't expect the hull to be totally watertight, so my approach is have hatch covers that I leave off when not sailing to help to dry it out....

I plan to reinforce the mast tube (top and bottom ideally), so thats another hole to cut; my current thinking there is 125mm hole between the two deck stringers astern of the mast - that is directly above the damaged area of keel. I did consider cutting in from outside as its much easier to make the repair "invisible" that way, but it will be a lot easier to do the laminating on the keel from the deck.... At the moment the mast tube just leaks a little, but that must mean that it is starting to wear through!

I think the Minisail9000 blog is very useful by the way :-)

Regards.

S.

[robert baker]

Put a breather hole in too, this needs to be just above the Richmond badge

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Minisail" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to minisail+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.