Proxxon Pd 250 Manual

[Holly Coffell]

Iown a Proxxon MF-70 mill that I bought a number of years ago and have barely used. I wanted to try something the other day with it and realized that in the X dimension, the table is very wobbly. I think that I need to adjust the gibs but I can't quite figure out how. I can see that there are three nuts on the side with what looks like may be some teeny, tiny allen screws in the middle of them. My eyesight isn't that great, but if they are indeed allen screws, I sure don't have a wrench that small. For that matter, I don't have a nut driver small enough either (and there's no way to get a wrench in there). But given that I don't have a clue what I'm doing and can't find any instruction manual (if I ever had one) I need some help understanding how to do this from a more experienced member who also owns this mill. I don't mind buying the tools I need, but I want to make sure I'm doing the right thing in the first place. The Y dimension seems to be just fine.

You can download the xy table manual from the net. Type Proxxon KT 70 compound table manual into your search engine. I found one but I can't get the link to work on this post. How to make adjustments is explained (briefly) in the manual. You will need a small allen key to adjust the screws. I have this table but can't remember if the allen key was included. I have several sets of them.

Thanks to both of you for the very quick response! I had gone to the Proxxon web site looking for a manual and couldn't find any, but I didn't think to search for the X-Y Table manual. This process is pretty much what I figured it would be. I'll just have to see if I can find the appropriate tools. Again - many thanks for the replies.

Just got home from chasing a little white ball around the course.... stupid game!!! Anyhow, I have scanned and added the relevant pages of the manual below. I'm sure it doesn't break copyright as these are available to download on the net. I think the section most relevant to your needs is titled `Adjusting the guide play' Click on pics to enlarge and read. Hope this gets you out of trouble

Very kind of you - thank you! I determined that the nut is a 7/32. Unfortunately, a socket won't fit between the nut and the base (even the small 1/4" drive socket I have), but I was able to get them loose with a wrench. The allen screws appear to need a 1/16" wrench, which I got at the hardware store, but it is really tight. I got a cheap set, so maybe it's just not exactly 1/16". In any case, I got the gibs tightened and now the table is much better.

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This project will start with a standard MF70 mill and finish with a 3 Axis CNC mill with an improved Y axis travel. The costs of this project should be kept below 150 including all the endmills and other disposables.

The cost of end mills is already quite high but they should last for some time. I use a company called Sorotec for my tooling. Its all 1/8th in. shank tooling which is fine but can be a little strange as a metric person.

I intend to create a wiring diagram later in the project so that I can refine and finalise the electronics before I post to help avoid confusion. I have got a working set of electronics to run all 3 axis. This includes a relay to turn the main spindle on and off. In the final version, the spindle will not have digital speed control but its not really necessary without an automatic tool changer.

I had been experimenting with the 2 axis version for some time. I am reasonably well organised with the tools but there are loads to keep track of and several projects which use similar sets of fixings and tools. This meant that I spent some time thinking about a case for the electronics and the fixings; like the vice and the toe clamps etc.

The impetus to actually build the enclosure came when I was testing the machinability of some scrap brass when there was an almighty bang and the lights flickered and the blue smoke escaped from my workhorse atx power supply. The supply has served me well for a several years and so I am not annoyed at the life expectancy. This meant that I could not continue to use the mill until the new PSU showed up. So while I was waiting for the PSU, I used my time to make the new box.

The box was constructed from spare plywood from around the workshop and the dimensions are not really specific other than looking good and leaving enough space to mount all the cable ports and emergency stop button. there is a combination of 18mm ply, 6mm ply and 6mm hardboard. The drawer runs on the plywood base which had to be sanded very smooth to make the drawer run freely. There is a little rail used to support the shelf which the electronics are mounted upon. This shelf is removable in case I ever need to get easier access to the PSU or the control electronics.

The new 24V 15A PSU mounted on the left with the mains hard wired. As mentioned previously; the current wiring set up is not the one that will be in the final design but it works for the moment. The relay shield and the arduino nano can be seen with some basic wiring. Also I have used a 3 pin aviation connector to allow for relay control for the spindle. The connector is the same type as the 4pin ones used for the stepper motor. I could have used the 4 pin variety but this would allow the steppers to be powered with 240V AC. Not a great option. There are going to be brass plates used to mount the aviations connectors. These were the first things milled when the mill was mounted on the box.

By utilising the 2 Axis mill and purchasing some 5mm * 100mm * 1m 6068 Aluminium, I was able to start milling motor mounts, bearing holders and mounting plates for the Z axis. These were taken from one of the previously mentioned websites (All construction documents will be added when the conversion is complete).

The milled parts required for the Z Axis conversion. There are a few cosmetic issues but nothing serious. Every hole was machined with a separate milling operation which took a long time. This was to avoid any rapid moves while the Z axis is manually controlled. Many of the holes are to be tapped M4 or M6.

The parts were assembled (the bolts in this picture were replaced with shorter cap head bolts after the bearing retainer was seated. The previous coupling was made of ABS plastic but I wanted to remove the handwheels from the build. I made a brass coupling on grandads lathe. This was the only part that required a lathe in this build but there may be other ways of doing this.

The shoulder was turned to accurately fit in the bearing so as to reduce runout. On larger machines it is inadvisable to directly couple two shafts end to end. In this case the misalignment will be taken up by the flexibility in the threaded rod. The small hole is for the spring pin which holds the leadscrew.

Since I will not be needing any simultaneous 3 axis machining to build the Z axis conversion, I can make do with a 2 axes conversion. The X axis is held in place by a simple aluminium bar fixed to the T-Slot. An action shot which shows the 2 axes working together can be seen next.

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