Any tips on removing BMW airhead exhaust headers from cylinder?
d bauer
stuck-stuck-stuck into the cylinder exhaust port. I can't even rock
them side to side in hopes or working them out. Any suggestions before
the BFH is applied gently? TIA mad.danB
d bauer
removing the exhaust header tube from the cylinder.
please continue discussion :)
mad.danb
On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 9:08 AM, Chad McDade <neo...@gmail.com> wrote:
> NO PIPE WRENCH!! Do NOT force it off, do not rock it back and forth till it
> loosens. it will ruin the thread on the head, then the heads will need to
> be sent out to have the threaded part repaired/replaced.
> Lots of heat and patience. If you cannot get it to move easily, then cut
> off the collar. A slit from front to back (across the threads), then
> another on the other side or split the collar open at the first slit. New
> (or good used) collars are much cheaper than repairing the head and having
> to replace the collars anyway.
> Always use anti-seize when installing the collars, and its a good idea to
> loosen the collars once a year and recoat with anti-seize.
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>
>
John H
obligation. You have a few choices:
Penetrating oil + patience + gentle persuasion
Heat, maybe heat and cold, perhaps wrapping the head with a cloth
soaked with very hot water and then wrapping the pipe with cloth
soaked in ice water will cause the metals to separate enough to give
you a little wiggle room. It’s worked for me in the past when
slipping cylinders onto new pistons.
Combine the above method with penetrating oil and gentle persuasion
and it should work.
On Jan 21, 9:24 am, d bauer <mad.d...@gmail.com> wrote:
> NOTE: the collars are OFF! there was no problem there. The problems is
> removing the exhaust header tube from the cylinder.
> please continue discussion :)
>
> mad.danb
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 9:08 AM, Chad McDade <neor...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > NO PIPE WRENCH!! Do NOT force it off, do not rock it back and forth till it
> > loosens. it will ruin the thread on the head, then the heads will need to
> > be sent out to have the threaded part repaired/replaced.
> > Lots of heat and patience. If you cannot get it to move easily, then cut
> > off the collar. A slit from front to back (across the threads), then
> > another on the other side or split the collar open at the first slit. New
> > (or good used) collars are much cheaper than repairing the head and having
> > to replace the collars anyway.
> > Always use anti-seize when installing the collars, and its a good idea to
> > loosen the collars once a year and recoat with anti-seize.
>
>
> >> Before I get too crazy here, the exhaust headers on my R60/7 are
> >> stuck-stuck-stuck into the cylinder exhaust port. I can't even rock
> >> them side to side in hopes or working them out. Any suggestions before
> >> the BFH is applied gently? TIA mad.danB
>
> >> --
> >> Check out the ChiVinMoto Virtual Garages
> >>http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=24641
>
> >> Wed Nite Garage: Jan 12th= Build Ice Tires for the electric bike?
> >> Jan19th=? Jan26th=?
>
> >> To UN-Subscribe from this group, send email to:
> >> ChiVinMoto-...@googlegroups.com
> >> To post to this group, send email to ChiVi...@googlegroups.com
> >> To visit on the web:http://groups.google.com/group/ChiVinMoto?hl=en
> >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>
> - Show quoted text -
Sidecarless Denny
Blaster) and patience, with some judicious applications of heat, may
work. I've heard of solidly rusted knucklehead rocker shafts coming
loose with nothing more than Kroil and a single daily rap with a
hammer. Of course, it may take weeks/months, but its the least
destructive.
An old chevy trick for stuck distributors was to get the motor good
and hot, and then hit the distributor with a CO2 fire extinguisher.
Maybe gently heating the cylinder with a torch or heat gun, and then
wrapping the cylinder/head in a towel and hitting the header with the
CO2 would give you the thermal shock to break the corrosion?
Sidecar Denny
ironmonger
in an article in the April 2007 issue of the Home Shop Machinist
Magazine a few years ago.
It is referenced here also:
http://yamahaenduro.com/showthread.php?t=15512&highlight=penetrating+oil
One of the comments there was that the acetone and ATF will not
mix. I found out the hard way that it separates, and I subbstituted
charcoal lighter fluid for the acetone. It will remained mixed.
The chart that is included in the link was originally generated by
drilling and reaming seven holes in a steel plated, press-fitting
seven steel dowels, then rusting them for a period of time and then
recording the amount of force that was need to press them out with a
hydraulic press. Stuff works pretty well... it's worth a try and it's
cheap enough to fill a cylinder to free up a stuck piston.
paul
Tim w
and oil like pb blaster. Take ur time don't get pissed off. I was told
don't heat it , thats how it got stuck in there to start.
Bryan O'Shaughnessy
| I've never faced this exact problem, but when I've had "stuck" things, I've employed chemical sprays, then helped things along by smacking the item with a hammer or a dead-blow mallet, depending on the robustness of the item being smacked, I'm afraid of fire; flammable chemicals exacerbate my fear. ---Bryan O --- On Fri, 1/21/11, Jon Brownell <mimi...@yahoo.com> wrote:
|
d bauer
headers today. Will keep at this each evening until "loose" interest
OR they pop loose. Thanks alls for the input-suggests-threats.
mad.danB
Eric Todd
dont use heat
"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of
penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty
test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test.
The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds
the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!
Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10
The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."
Mark Flintrop
| This may or may not relate to your current problems but keep this in your 'bookmarks' for future reference if you're going to make a habit of wrenching on an Airhead. Robert Fleischer, aka "snowbum" is the Guru's Guru when it comes to airhead tech. His site lacks all the fluff and photos we've come to expect from a webpage these days but more than makes up for that with Real content and honest tips and hints The tech stuff starts about halfway down the page: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/techindex.htm --- On Sun, 1/23/11, d bauer <mad....@gmail.com> wrote: |
|
d bauer
applied heat 3 evenings, pentrating oil 2x a day, and afew good
love-taps each day. The tubes moved and dropped out this evening. The
corrosion is minor in both the exhaust header and the exhaust port.
Must have just been STUCK from sitting.
NEXT. the left header is dented pretty good so tomorrow I'll plug
openings, fill with water, and put out in the cold. Its been suggested
the freezing water will expand and undent exhaust tubes. Will take
before and after pics regardless of pos-neg results.
If things go awry, anyone have a slash 6 or 7 R60-R75-R90 left BMW
header for sale? contact me offlist
mad.danB
p.s. is Matt from Motorworks on VinMoto list?
ironmonger
uniformly, and if you could keep the ice from pushing out the end
instead, the expansion will be pretty much equal and it will push in
all directions ... every where... even where you don't want it to
expand... it will.
When water pipes freeze, what we see is a large bulge where the freeze
zone was, and a split wherever the pipe was to weak to withstand the
stretching.
Water expands about 9% when it freezes... I think you will have fat
pipes and splits.
The pictures will be interesting.
d bauer
for expansion but was not sure on %. I do want to prevent buldge-break
scenerio. thanks for the advice!
d bauer
road-rash and dent. I will need to pickup soem rubber stoppers this
evening. mad.danB
On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 8:16 AM, Sean Costello <scos...@gmail.com> wrote:
> It's my understanding that as long as you have the header propped up
> correctly, you don't even need to plug the ends, as the water nearest the
> openings will freeze first and act as a plug.
>