Autodesk Inventor 2012 X86 Kor Torrent

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Myong Killings

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Jul 11, 2024, 6:50:32 AM7/11/24
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I've just installed Inventor 2022, using a student licence. When I launch the desktop app, I'm presented with three login options, the one I need to use is 'Sign in with Autodesk ID', since I don't have a serial number or network licence. I'm just a student trying to use inventor for the first time for college, at home on my laptop. Very similar situation to this post here: -forum/inventor-closes-when-sign-in-with-autodesk-id/m-p/1029...

Autodesk Inventor 2012 X86 Kor Torrent


Download https://jfilte.com/2yMEkj



I did previously have a student license, and I think it might have been tied to my school's network. It expired a while ago, so I can't remember for sure. This was after I got a job and took a break for two years. With my new licence, I've only ever been on my home network.

This has left me extremely confused, I admit I have little experience with this sort of thing. I've gone into my account, under 'All Products and Services', and I'm seeing Inventor there as usual. AutoCAD is also there, and I'm suffering the exact same problems with it as well, so hopefully I can get both running.

My listed licence type is 'Autodesk ID', which is what I've been trying to sign in with. I can't tell if anything is out of place. Do I need to request a home use licence? That process needs a serial number, which I don't seem to have.

Hi! It sounds like the Autodesk Licensing Service is either not properly installed or not properly running. Go to Windows Task Manager -> Services -> find Autodesk Licensing Service -> stop it and restart it.

I have come across the same issue, and I have tried everything on every forum that I've seen, and nothing changes it. I've logged out of it on every other computer that I was using it on as well, and it still will not let me log in with my AutoDesk ID.

I had an issue where inventor would not activate because the Autodesk Desktop app (this is a separate app and not inventor, it's in your start menu) was signed in with a different account from the one I was trying to activate inventor with.

hi friend i run into the same probleme as you mention, and i was thankfully able to solve it, and the solution is pretty simple, all you need to do is to log in into your autodesk account, then click on account on the top right corner, then you go to products and services, you scroll till you find the desired product(inventor pro), then click on it and all you need to do is to download the updates that's availble on that page and install them (Autodesk Licensing Service,Single Sign On Component) hopefully this will help you

when clicking a file, or trying to open inventor on the program itself, the loading screen begins but only loads a quarter of the way and freezes. if i hover the mouse over the window the mouse just spins like it might be frozen. after about 10 seconds, the loading bar jumps to be about 66% complete and then the window closes.

tried to re-download inventor, but it seems they want my transcript to prove im a student (they didnt ask that before) and the school is closed to us so i cant get my transcript, and its summer so even if it was open, that section would be closed.

Inventor.exe needs to reregister with the operating system and the following programs (Explorer, DLLHost) are running and may prevent registration from successfully completing. Autodesk recommends terminating the offending processes to ensure proper registration. Terminate these processes before continuing with the registration?

Yes, No, Cancel.

Hi! Click Yes please. This usually means you are running multiple versions of Inventor on your machine. When you switch version, the warning will come up. There is nothing wrong with it. It is just telling Windows, the about to launch Inventor is the current Inventor.

clicked next, now its asking me Which versions of windows did this program work on before, selecting from windows 8, 7, or vista. i dont have an "other" option. I never changed my operating system.....

they used to appear on the desktop as preview thumbnails, then they looked like the the generic pictures that a .idw or .dwg look like (that was earlier today, before doing one of the steps i was directed to do from this chat) and now their just blank.

Hi! This one looks more like licensing issue. Log on to manage.autodesk.com and check your entitlement. Do you have active license for Inventor 2020? If yes, try updating licensing service as described on below page.0

Lets fix the file extension issue first.. In that dialog box where its asking you which program to use to open the files scroll down and press the text that says "Look for another app on this PC" and navigate to C:\Program Files\Autodesk\Inventor 2020\Bin folder and select "Inventor.exe" and then make sure the check box to "Always use this app to open xxx files" is checked and press OK"

Hi! I guess the license might be corrupted. Please install 2020.5 update, followed by 2020.5.3 update. Then log on to manage.autodesk.com and check your entitlement. Then start Inventor -> click on your user name at the upper right corner -> Manage License -> follow the prompts.

I think it would be a great addition if we could have a shortcut, similar to Windows' 'alt+tab' used for switching between applications, for switching between open inventor files/file tabs. I think something like 'shift+tab' would work?

My hand is usually over on that side of the keyboard anyway as I use a 3d mouse. I find myself automatically pressing 'alt+tab' expecting to see my other design open up, but I actually switch to another application! It gets a little frustrating after a while.

I'm very new to Inventor (have worked with other modelling softwares) so I still don't quite understand how to create a physical thread versus a "visual" or cosmetic thread. I'm currently modelling a supressor prop (which I will 3D print in plastic) for an airsoft gun and am making two parts 1) the supressor, with a threaded hole to stick the barrel into and 2) an adapter, essentially a cylinder with a hollow smooth inside and a threaded outside which will fit over the unthreaded barrel of the airsoft pistol and allow for me to use the threads. My confusion is that, after exporting my objects as STL files, the threads do not appear, despite my using the hole-> thread command and thread commands. Could anyone explain how to get physical threads for 3D printing. Threads are ANSI Unified Screw Threads 11/16-12 UN 2B and 2A respectively.

There is an add-on for Inventor from CoolOrange, I believe, which will cut actual threads. Or you can do it yourself by sweeping the proper thread profile along a helical path. Inventor's threaded hole feature does not cut actual threads, since helical surfaces are data-intensive and having a large number of them in a model would bring Inventor to its knees. Therefore, the thread data is saved with the hole feature, and a cosmetic appearance is added to the threaded face so it's easy to identify visually which holes are threaded. Obviously this isn't too helpful for 3D printing, so you have to cut your own-- but be sure to add extra clearance to the thread, since printers aren't nearly as accurate as machined threads.

I just upgraded to Inventor 2020 and now the threaded holes are too tight. If I chase them with a tap they chip out. I thought I could just make the holes .010" bigger but then I can't assign the thread I want.

I know its an old thread, but theres another option and thats Fusion360 which can natively do modeled threading.
F360 can import ipt files directly and you can easily do your threading in that.

Its a workaround as some info is lost when saving the file as ipt in F360 and opened with inventor, but what I did was do the whole part in inventor, then as the final step, opened it with F360 and did the thread I wanted.

It means that if I ever change the part, ill have to redo the thread with F360, but it takes just seconds to do.

What I dont understand is, how come even inventor 2022 (I just upgraded from 2019 today) doesnt have that same thread modeler that F360 has, I mean both are Autodesk products and F360 is being like a "light" version of inventor as I see it?

If this method is still too tight, you can use the Direct Edit tool to offset the nut surfaces outward a bit (0.005-.010") to give more clearance. This can be finicky however, so you might want to look into modeling your own threads.

JD, I know this is an old thread and I hope you'll get to see this post. I started using Inventor in 2012. I'm just a middle-aged guy who likes to tinker on building things so I'm not a serious student of Inventor and not aspiring to a job with it. That kind of makes me a hack. Back in 2012, I posted my first question about Inventor and you answered it. Likely, back then, I was under a different user name, and it may or may not have been on this forum. Regardless, over the years, you have helped me tremendously both directly in response to posts I've made and indirectly, like today, as I read your answers to others' questions.

I'll look you up on YT and subscribe and make some comment(s) there. But I wanted to say this: Thank you so very much for all the help you have given the community with your immense knowledge and experience. You answer countless posts and that takes lots of time. The time you took to make this video response was appreciable. It is not possible to say enough kind words or do anything in return to honor the immense effort you have put into helping those of us who are trying to learn. Saying "thank you" is wholly inadequate, but it's what I have.

Having done 3d printing, I can say that unless you have a very expensive 3d printer, your formed threads will not print well enough to be useful. Instead, I make sure the print has an undersized hole (smaller than the root) and there's enough solid material around the hole to use a steel tap to cut the threads after the print is finished.

I've made a number of prints like that and they work great. Most of the threads were #6, #8 & #10. Some of them were 1/4-20. The print plastic was ABS. I've not needed to do this with external threads, but it seems to me that it would be no big deal when done the same way. Adequate solid plastic material will result in good thread cuts using a steel die.

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