Pubs in and around Birmingham's Jewellery Quarter
www.midlandspubs.co.uk
period. On page 4 there is an article by Roger Protz in which he
states that, despite the problems faced by the pub industry, “British
drinkers enjoy greater choice than at any time in the Good Beer
Guide’s history, dating back to the early 1970’s.” A wander around the
Jewellery Quarter today seemed to verify this statement. Ten years ago
this historic part of Birmingham only had one or two pubs worth
seeking out. What a difference a decade makes. Today, we enjoyed
excellent pubs that offered good food and beer and were doing a
roaring trade.
We had ventured into Birmingham to have a wander around the Gas Hall
which is currently staging a “Birmingham Seen” exhibition that
explores the ways in which artists and photographers have portrayed
the people and landscape of Birmingham since 1900. The added bonus for
me was that there were plenty of old photographs of pubs, some very
rare images - the exhibition’s deadline has been extended to the end
of January so do try to get along if you can. Admission is free.
After our tour of the exhibition we walked to Hockley and ventured
into the Church Tavern, a former Ansell’s boozer on the corner of
Great Hampton Street and Harford Street. I have posted a photograph of
the interior in the files section. As a Punch Taverns house in the
1990’s and run by Raymond and Pat Wilkes, this was once the only place
where you could buy Batham’s beer in Birmingham. The couple
concentrated on food and cosiness but the current interior, although
still commendable, has much less clutter. There is a real fire for
toasting - much needed on a day when it struggled to get above zero
outside. We were surprised to see Timothy Taylor Golden Best, a 3.5%
ale that I have not seen on sale since a visit to the Pennines a few
years ago. The pub was also selling Wye Valley H.P.A. The present
incumbents certainly offer a wide range of events at the Church
Tavern, from karaoke to race nights. It was nice and quiet when we
visited and a few people were tucking into roast Sunday dinners.
We walked the short distance along Great Hampton Street to the Lord
Clifden, a pub that claims to have the largest collection of public
art on display in the city. I can remember calling in here a few years
ago, not long after Sunderland-born London chef Graham Smith took over
this place and I wondered whether it would be a success. This was at a
time when few people would have touched the Lord Clifden with a barge
pole. The pub’s transformation has been quite remarkable. He started
off by selling the occasional cask of Tetley Bitter but, after being
encouraged by the local CAMRA branch, he ventured into the real ale
with some gusto. He secured the supply of Batham’s Bitter which had
formerly been stocked at the aforementioned Church Tavern and slowly
added more beers to the range. And then he really got the beer bug and
started up his own brewery.
But the Lord Clifden’s success story is more than just a tale about
beer. “We’re very much a community pub,” Graham told the Birmingham
Post’s Andrew Cowan. “The regulars have been drinking here for years.
We’ve got a ladies darts team and football table. There’s a fishing
club and domino team too.” The front bar is home to the traditional
games where there is also a butcher’s block forming the centrepiece of
the room. But the real star item is the table tennis table in the
enclosed beer garden to the rear of the building. This really is a
charming haven with traffic lights, a belisha beacon and old post box
emerge from the plants. It really is an oasis in an area more
associated with heavy industry.
We enjoyed the Sunday afternoon vibe inside the pub and tried some of
the homebrewed beer. It wasn’t a knockout but pleasant enough. The pub
also sells three other cask beers and a large range of continental
lagers. Sunday dinners are sold all day until 9pm which is quite a
refreshing change in a world that seems to put the shutters up around
two-ish. Graham seems to have put his stamp on the kitchen and the
plates looked good. If you prefer a quiet pint then early doors is the
best option as the pub seems to change its spots at night when the
DJ’s let rip with the sound system. There was a nice mix of clientele
and we really enjoyed this pub experience. Oh, nearly forgot... I have
uploaded a photograph of this pub’s interior in the files section. Bit
fuzzy as I had the camera on the wrong setting but at least you can
get a feel of the place.
We walked up Vyse Street into the heart of the Jewellery Quarter and
found the Jewellers’ Arms in a vibrant mood. Once a true desert for
beer fans, the last time we ventured in here it was dead. We were the
only customers on a Saturday night. As if to prove that pubs go
through good and bad phases, the Jewellers’ is seemingly enjoying
something of a renaissance. The pub now sells Greene King IPA and
Hobson’s Bitter, the latter being a real rarity in Birmingham. And the
even better news is that it tasted really great. With a friendly
Irishman behind the counter and everyone enjoying the footy on the
telly, it was nice to see this place ticking over nicely. I have
uploaded a photograph of this pub’s interior in the files section.
Many people were wearing green and white as the Celtic vs Rangers
match was being shown on the telly.
Our next port of call was the Red Lion in Warstone Lane. Leased by
Graham Smith, this is now the sister pub of the Lord Clifden. There
are many similarities in ethos and style but this building has
retained more of its traditional character. We nabbed a seat in the
bar at the front of the building. Again, the vibe was very pleasant
and we found the staff friendly. Beer samples were offered but we just
dived in. Four ales were on offer: Wye Valley Butty Bach, Purity Mad
Goose, Nottingham Extra Pale Ale and York Yorkshire Terrier. All four
beers were excellent so we stayed for several, and feeling peckish,
ordered a couple of Sunday dinners. Priced at £8.95p the nosh was
excellent and is heartily recommended. Indeed, the Red Lion’s events
programme is largely based around food with Pie Night and Cow Club.
I’m not sure why the Urban Ales beer produced by Graham Smith are not
sold at the Red Lion in addition to the Lord Clifden? I’d have still
gone for the Yorkshire Terrier, a fabulous beer.
So, once again Birmingham has managed to surprise us with more pub
success stories and a tremendous choice of beer available.
Cheers
Kieron