O.T. USB 2.0 charger for portable CD player

[Robert in CA]

I know, this isn't a computer related problem
but I would appreciate some guidance.

I bought this portable cd player but it only
came with a USB 2.0 connection cord to
charge with. The problem is I don't have a
USB charging station since I don't use cell
phones.

So
chttps://www.amazon.com/Portable-Speakers-Rechargeable-Anti-Skip-Protection/dp/B08H1QMTKM/ref=asc_df_B08H1QMTKM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475810000983&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8279068870755540668&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031518&hvtargid=pla-1128843982971&psc=1

So can you recommend a good product with AC
connection with USB 2.0 ports I could buy to charge
it with? I checked and but many are item specific
and don't know if they would work with mine.

Thanks,
Robert

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Wed, 6 Jul 2022 09:57:38 -0700, Robert in CA <Rob...@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>I know, this isn't a computer related problem
>but I would appreciate some guidance.
>
>I bought this portable cd player but it only
>came with a USB 2.0 connection cord to
>charge with. The problem is I don't have a
>USB charging station since I don't use cell
>phones.
>
>So
>chttps://www.amazon.com/Portable-Speakers-Rechargeable-Anti-Skip-Protection/dp/B08H1QMTKM/ref=asc_df_B08H1QMTKM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475810000983&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8279068870755540668&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031518&hvtargid=pla-1128843982971&psc=1
>
>So can you recommend a good product with AC
>connection with USB 2.0 ports I could buy to charge
>it with? I checked and but many are item specific
>and don't know if they would work with mine.
>
>Thanks,
>Robert

There are literally hundreds of products to do this but any wall
charger will work. A USB port in your PC will work too.

This sort of thing
https://www.amazon.com/X-Charger-Adapter-Charging-Samsung/dp/B0794WT57Y/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=usb+charger&qid=1657128429&sr=8-6

[Paul]

On 7/6/2022 12:57 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
> I know, this isn't a computer related problem
> but I would appreciate some guidance.
>
> I bought this portable cd player but it only
> came with a USB 2.0 connection cord to
> charge with. The problem is I don't have a
> USB charging station since I don't use cell
> phones.
>
> So chttps://www.amazon.com/Portable-Speakers-Rechargeable-Anti-Skip-Protection/dp/B08H1QMTKM>
>

> So can you recommend a good product with AC
> connection with USB 2.0 ports I could buy to charge
> it with? I checked and  but many are item specific
> and don't know if they would work with mine.
>
> Thanks,
> Robert
>

Speakers: Built-in 2*1W stereo speakers.
Battery: 1400mAh rechargeable Li-ion battery.
Power Source: DC 5V/1A
Operating Voltage: 3.7V

Here, someone tests a charger, for output quality.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11456

"Min Avg Max
5.24V 5.28V 5.32V

Ripple: 80mV. Ripple frequency is 33.3KHz.

My desktop's USB provides 4.93V with a ripple of 20mV.

Crappy 'free-gift' chargers provide about
5.2V with a ripple of 1 Volt (yes, 1 volt!).

The charger that came with my Samsung phone was
about the same as the one being reviewed here.
All in all, two scope-probes up!
"

You can see some examples of definitions of what is put
on D+ and D-, as resistor strap voltages for charging.
These values are sent by the wall adapter, to tell the other
end what limit is implied. The actual (defacto) table is larger
than this, and some signaled quantities the D+ and D- are
at the same voltage.

https://blog.voltaicsystems.com/choosing-usb-pin-voltages-for-iphones-and-ipads/

USB Port Current D- D+
900mA 2.75V 2.0V <=== likely to be what your player expects to see
2000mA 2.0V 2.75V

You can see on this device, one port is labeled "2.1 amps"
the other port is labeled "1.0 amps". The signaling would be set
differently on the two ports, with the signaling being more
important to an iPad charging at full rate. This is just to illustrate
how a device can advertise two different things. Some duals (with no
labeling next to the plugs) have exactly the same output on the
two plugs.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/USB-Wall-Charger-5V-1A-2-1A-Portable-Dual-USB-Power-Adapter-Charger-Plug-Charging-Block-Double-USB-Wall-Fast-Charger-Adapter/177715002

When a device offers two ports, my personal preference would be
to use only one port at a time. Considering the low price and
the potential quality of the items, I would not "Push it".

*******

Plugging your player into the 8500, might charge it at 0.5 amps.
Or, if the player wants, it could completely refuse to charge.
There are many possibilities. That's because the D+ and D-
strapping on a regular PC port, is set up for USB signaling
and not for charging. There is still strapping on the pins,
but using values not in that table.

I would charge the player, while the 8500 was running the OS.
My newest PC cuts off the USB ports on shutdown (not all do that).

*******

The USB-C connector (which has many more pins),

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e8/USB-C_plug%2C_focus_stacked.jpg/330px-USB-C_plug%2C_focus_stacked.jpg

supports a wealth of charging standards and there are protocols running
on the cable in that case. You do not care about any of these,
as they are irrelevant to your 5V/1A case. You don't really
want a charger with that shape of plug.

Paul

[J. P. Gilliver (John)]

On Wed, 6 Jul 2022 at 13:28:53, gfre...@aol.com wrote (my responses
usually FOLLOW):

>On Wed, 6 Jul 2022 09:57:38 -0700, Robert in CA <Rob...@yahoo.com>
>wrote:
[]

>>I bought this portable cd player but it only
>>came with a USB 2.0 connection cord to
>>charge with. The problem is I don't have a

[]

>>So can you recommend a good product with AC
>>connection with USB 2.0 ports I could buy to charge
>>it with? I checked and but many are item specific
>>and don't know if they would work with mine.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Robert
>There are literally hundreds of products to do this but any wall
>charger will work. A USB port in your PC will work too.

[]
Yes; almost any market stall, large supermarket (I know ASDA do), I
think even poundshops - certainly similar budget stores. Beware - I've
heard horror stories about some of the ultra-cheap ones - though I
suspect, especially if only for charging, all will be fine - especially,
as gfretwell says, the USB ports on any computer. Depending on what's
inside the CD player as charging circuitry, it may even charge faster
from USB3 (blue) ones; it's not supposed to, but it might.

If you really want to be swanky and are safe fitting such things, you
can even buy a two-socket outlet (for normal mains plugs) that has USB
sockets in, which just replaces one such in your house.

Oops, forgot I wasn't in a UK newsgroup: references to ASDA and socket
outlets might not mean anything. Though Id be surprised if such sockets
for US devices don't exist. Here, also, mains ("line") extension
leads/socket adapters also often have a USB outlet - or two - in them
too.
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

pu gnikcab yb naem uoy tahw siht sI

[Robert in CA]

I never thought of using the 8500.

I tried using the charger for one of my digital
camera's with a USB connection but the
charge indicator never lit up on the CD player.
Maybe it lights up after its charged? The manual
doesn't tell much.

I'll try connecting it to the 8500 and see what happens.

btw, ever since we replaced the start switch on the 8500
it's been running smooth as silk.

Robert

[J. P. Gilliver (John)]

On Wed, 6 Jul 2022 at 14:41:01, Paul <nos...@needed.invalid> wrote (my
responses usually FOLLOW):

>On 7/6/2022 12:57 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
>> I know, this isn't a computer related problem
>> but I would appreciate some guidance.
>> I bought this portable cd player but it only
>> came with a USB 2.0 connection cord to

[]

>Speakers: Built-in 2*1W stereo speakers.
>Battery: 1400mAh rechargeable Li-ion battery.
>Power Source: DC 5V/1A
>Operating Voltage: 3.7V

[]

>You can see some examples of definitions of what is put
>on D+ and D-, as resistor strap voltages for charging.
>These values are sent by the wall adapter, to tell the other
>end what limit is implied. The actual (defacto) table is larger
>than this, and some signaled quantities the D+ and D- are
>at the same voltage.

[]
I suspect the majority of devices that use USB only for power -
including charging - don't bother with the D+ and D- pins, but just take
the most they can from the supply pins - with in some cases a limit so
they don't trip the overcurrent limitation in (some, mainly in
computers) sources.

>I would charge the player, while the 8500 was running the OS.
>My newest PC cuts off the USB ports on shutdown (not all do that).
>

Some, I think, especially laptops, can be configured (probably if XP
vintage or earlier, only in the BIOS) as to whether they provide power
from the USB connections when turned off. (Sometimes only some of the
sockets.)
[]
The fact that the device didn't show any charge light when plugged into
your PC could indeed be that the light only comes on when fully charged
- though I suspect it's more likely that it tried to take from the PC
more than the 0.5A that was originally the nominal limit for USB (both
USB1 and 2.1 I think), and at best, this triggered some safety cutoff in
the computer. (At worst, has blown a fuse or worse; to check, connect
something else which you know _doesn't_ draw much, such as a keyboard or
mouse. Possibly after power cycling, and maybe even waiting a few
minutes, in case the protection is of some foldback/thermal variety.)

If you can borrow a charger from a friend or neighbour, ideally one
rated 1A or more, that should establish whether the charging light comes
on while charging (as would be more usual) or only when fully charged.

--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

It's a beta orgy, not a product. - Mayayana in alt.windows7.general, 2018-3-8

[Robert in CA]

I've had it plugged into the 8500 for an hour now
and there's no indicator that it's charging. I had the
power off though. However I turned the power on
and still no indicator light.

It did the same thing with the charger for my digital
camera.

I know this is a dumb question but should I have the
power on the portable cd when charging? That's
what I have it set at now but I see no signs of it charging.

Maybe it needs to fully charge before the light comes on?

Robert

[J. P. Gilliver (John)]

On Wed, 6 Jul 2022 at 13:15:57, Robert in CA <magin...@yahoo.com>

wrote (my responses usually FOLLOW):

>I've had it plugged into the 8500 for an hour now
>and there's no indicator that it's charging. I had the
>power off though. However I turned the power on
>and still no indicator light.
>
>It did the same thing with the charger for my digital
>camera.

What's the rating of that charger? It'll probably say, though in tiny
black on black. If significantly less than 1A (which Paul found was what
your device wants), it might shut down to protect itself.

>
>I know this is a dumb question but should I have the
>power on the portable cd when charging? That's
>what I have it set at now but I see no signs of it charging.

Well, one obvious thing to try ... (-:

>
>Maybe it needs to fully charge before the light comes on?

Maybe. Try connecting it in a darkened room - does its light flash even
briefly when you connect it? Try with it both turned on and off. (I'd
expect that in most cases it would charge either way, but charge faster
when it's turned off.)

Does the unit have any sort of indication of its battery (really cell)'s
charge level - battery symbol in its display with segments, for example?
If so, is it going up or down?
>
>Robert

--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

And if you kill Judi Dench, you can't go back home. - Bill Nighy (on learning
to ride a motorbike [on which she would be side-saddle] for "The Best Exotic
Marigold Hotel"), quoted in Radio Times 18-24 February 2012.

[Paul]

On 7/6/2022 5:38 PM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
> On Wed, 6 Jul 2022 at 13:15:57, Robert in CA <magin...@yahoo.com> wrote (my responses usually FOLLOW):
>> I've had it plugged into the 8500 for an hour now
>> and there's no indicator that it's charging. I had the
>> power off though. However I turned the power on
>> and still no indicator light.
>>
>> It did the same thing with the charger for my digital
>> camera.
>
> What's the rating of that charger? It'll probably say, though in tiny black on black. If significantly less than 1A (which Paul found was what your device wants), it might shut down to protect itself.
>>
>> I know this is a dumb question but should I have the
>> power on the portable cd when charging?  That's
>> what I have it set at now but I see no signs of it charging.
>
> Well, one obvious thing to try ... (-:
>>
>> Maybe it needs to fully charge before the light comes on?
>
> Maybe. Try connecting it in a darkened room - does its light flash even briefly when you connect it? Try with it both turned on and off. (I'd expect that in most cases it would charge either way, but charge faster when it's turned off.)
>
> Does the unit have any sort of indication of its battery (really cell)'s charge level - battery symbol in its display with segments, for example? If so, is it going up or down?
>>
>> Robert

Normally, there should be a LED showing two states.
One state indicating "charging", a second
state indicating "done".

Then, when the charging cable is disconnected, the LED will go out entirely.

A lucky thing in this case, is the player uses a single
cell 3.7V LiCo. This means the charger cannot refuse to
charge it, because the cell voltage is too low. Those
will charge from zero, like my digital camera with one cell
does. So at least it won't have the safety enabled, as
reverse bias is not possible when only one LiCo is present.

I would guess the device is "moody" :-) And wants to
see a port with strapping indication.

If you own a USB power meter (an in-line device)

https://www.amazon.ca/X-DRAGON-Multimeter-Chargers-Capacity-Accuracy/dp/B019RHJRM8/

you can see how much current flows. If a device draws little
to no measured current, the thing is moody. If the device draws
900mA, it's probably charging. If you see the current decline,
you are in Phase 2 top-op and charging continues until the
current flow level drops to 3% or so (27mA). Some USB power
meters have more digits for the measurement, than others
(dynamic range issue).

The first charging phase is done at constant current, so
then 900mA may flow. The second phase, it switches to
constant voltage (4.2V) and the charge controller inside
the player watches the current drop, until it hits 3-5%
of full current. That's a kind of tapered charge at the end.

So you could watch the whole process, with a USB power meter.
The USB Power meter would even work with the charger brick -
just put the meter in-line, the player on the end, and watch
it go.

There are many models of USB power meters. Some include
measurement of USB-C connectors. USB-C uses a variety
of voltages and currents, and is not limited to just 5V.
The meter then, if used with USB-C, could indicate
higher voltages are in use.

But you don't need to buy a USB-C power meter for this
particular job. Just a regular simple meter would suffice.

Anyway, that's how a "scientist without a solder iron" would
check it :-)

Paul

[Robert in CA]

I left it connected to the 8500 for 4 hrs both switched on and off
and there were no indicators at all. The connector provided
has a white port while I have blue ports on the 8500 and black
ports on the 780 if that makes any difference and I don't have a
USB meter.

I tried using my camera charger again which has a black USB
port and my CD player extension is white but still nothing. No
LED's, nothing. I tried switching the power on/off and still nothing.

So I contacted the seller on eBay and although the Ad says no refunds
I asked if he could make an exception in my case and explained that it
wouldn't charge and the indicator light never lit up. So we'll see, ..

The whole reason I bought the portable CD player in the first place is
because the CD door of my Yamaha TSX-20 stopped working and
wouldn't open up although the tuner still plays.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-pneAQPhFT1A/p_022TSX10C/Yamaha-TSX-10.html

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/352402/Yamaha-Tsx-20.html

I use it for my physical therapy mostly and tried to get it repaired but
couldn't because the guy I normally send things to doesn't work on CD's
so I opted to get a portable player and now this happens.

Can you recommend a portable CD player for me without all this hassle?
One that will work?

In passing I finally picked up a mini-vac kit, although I haven't used it
yet. I just love how small everything is.


Thanks,
Robert

[Paul]

You should be able to pick up a 1A charger at a local store.
In the "Electronics" section. Ask the clerk if they have
"phone chargers", and there might be something there.

A store that sells phone accessories might have something.

I'm sure the device will light up, once you get a candidate
charger.

Paul

[J. P. Gilliver (John)]

On Wed, 6 Jul 2022 at 23:32:49, Paul <nos...@needed.invalid> wrote (my
responses usually FOLLOW):
[]

>You should be able to pick up a 1A charger at a local store.
>In the "Electronics" section. Ask the clerk if they have
>"phone chargers", and there might be something there.
>
>A store that sells phone accessories might have something.
>
>I'm sure the device will light up, once you get a candidate
>charger.
>
> Paul
>
>

Since it's "portable", take it with you and try it! If the store won't
let you, go to another store!

(Assuming it isn't actually faulty, of course.)

--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

> > Won't you come into the garden? I would like my roses to see you. -Richard

[gfre...@aol.com]

ref the yamaha
Stick a paper clip in the little hole in the cd player door. You
should feel the latch going "over center" and it should open. Be sure
you don't have something jammed in there

[Robert in CA]

This is what happened; I went to Target and
took John's suggestion and also brought the
CD player with me and remembered I actually
had bought a cell phone awhile back at Target
also but only used it once. So I dug it out and
I brought that too with everything it came with it.

While there I showed him the CD player and
explained the charging problem but when he
saw the cell phone he said that came with a charger!
So I looked in the original packaging I had brought
and sure enough there was a charger wrapped in
plastic included.

So we hooked it all up and tried it on two different
outlets but still nothing. No lights, nothing and he
said it should have enough power to light up the CD
player which is what I thought but didn't. He also
said that the charger for my digital camera's should
have worked.

So I guess I'll have to return it.

I'll just have to look for something else like maybe a
boom box.

Many thanks,
Robert

[Robert in CA]

As I said, I contacted the seller to return it
because I can't get it to charge. She was
very understanding and said of course I can
return it.

I had thought when I bought it I would hook it up to
the TSX-20 via Line Input as an Auxiliary as both
have that feature. Then I could still use the speakers
from the TSX-20.

I have a more elaborate stereo but it's in another room
and hard to do therapy there. I thought the portable CD
player was a perfect solution. So I'll have to look
around some more.

Thanks,Robert

[Robert in CA]

I don't see any hole in the CD door? Do you mean on top?
That the only hole I can see.

Robert

[Robert in CA]

I mailed the CD player back to the seller.

I'll just pick up something at Walmart I
think.

Thanks,
Robert

[Paul]

The fascia of the drive, has a hole in it, only big enough
to fit an unrolled paper clip. Usually the paper clip
presses on a lever behind the plastic front, and there is
a flat surface on the lever that the paper clip presses against.

And that helps open the tray, when the normal mechanism stops working.

The tray (on a motorized tray), is usually set up to reverse
direction if the tray jams. This is done by sensing excess current
flow in the tray motor. In some cases, just attempting to start
the motor causes the logic to switch, leaving the tray jammed open
and seemingly ignoring instructions. So the thing is capable of a
few different behaviors. You might notice it twitch a bit, if
it is erroneously detecting overcurrent.

But with no power applied to the tray, you should be able to get
it open enough to work on it, using your trusty paper clip.

Not all paper clips are perfect for this. The paper clip
should just clear the hole, with little excess space around
it. That is necessary so the paper clip can press on the
plate, with some authority.

If you have a box of hobby drill bits, like a #58 kind of thing,
you can go through those looking for the perfect fit. The hobby drill
bits are a bunch of sizes below 1/16". I used to use those for
drilling hobby circuit boards.

Paul

[Robert in CA]

I hate to sound dim witted but are you talking of
the area above the CD door? That's the only
surface which could have a hole as you described
but I took pics and I see nothing.

Here's the top of the TSX-20

https://postimg.cc/CRCHKsHg

https://postimg.cc/svTGHHc1

Yes, I do have some pretty small drill bits.

Robert

[Paul]

We're used to motorized, horizontal sliding trays.
That's what my VCR/DVD recorder has on it.
Those have a release button on the front, as well
as the hole for the paper clip. Even my Mac G4
has a hole (because it has a horizontal tray, as
well as a fancy front door), but the paper clip
must be bent on an angle to get at the hole.

Sometimes a plastic piece is screwed down over the
hole, and that's why you cannot see it.

*******

Yours is a Jack-In-The-Box drive. Complete
with gears to open the lid, instead of just a spring.
That means, to open that lid, there's got to be
a motor driving it. But maybe no latch to keep it shut.

[Picture]

https://i.postimg.cc/bYS004Wn/TSX20-CD-type.gif

If the Japanese are perverse, they'll use a worm
gear on the lid mechanism. In which case, you cannot just
grab the lid and rip it open :-) If the thing used
regular reduction gears, you might be able to coax
it open.

In any case, where will you get parts for a thing like that ?

The bottom of the mechanism, is similar to a laptop
drive mechanically. It's whether that lid mechanism
is completely separable, might determine how easy it is
to get a spare part. The only purpose of that lid, is
to keep dust away from the innards. It could have been
a finger release mechanism and a small spring instead
of a fancy motor.

It could even be, that the power board has partially
failed, and just juice for that motor is missing. Rather
than the overcurrent tripping because the lid is "sticky"
or something (worn gears cause high torque condition).

So no, there won't be a hole for a paper clip.

This is just over-engineering. Similar to my now-deceased
stereo, where the "large volume control knob" was motorized,
and if you used the remote and did Vol.up or Vol.down,
a motor would turn the volume control knob for you. Silly.
The volume setting instead could have been fully
electronic, and the knob didn't really need to move.
Moving the knob was for "aesthetics".

Paul

[Robert in CA]

Understood, and now you can see my frustration in not
finding a hole. *L* and like you said, where do you parts?
It feels like worm gears because I can't open it.

Here's my TSX-20

https://postimg.cc/m1W1PfKv

The tuner still works so it's not a total loss.

In passing, I thought you might be interested in my mrimg log.

https://postimg.cc/GH5zqzTH



Thanks
Robert

[J. P. Gilliver (John)]

On Fri, 8 Jul 2022 at 10:27:29, Robert in CA <magin...@yahoo.com>
wrote (my responses usually FOLLOW):

>Understood, and now you can see my frustration in not
>finding a hole. *L* and like you said, where do you parts?
>It feels like worm gears because I can't open it.
>
>Here's my TSX-20
>
>https://postimg.cc/m1W1PfKv

I see the button is labelled "open/close", suggesting it was motorised -
if it was just a release latch, I imagine it would be just labelled
"open".

(Now you've provided a top view, I can see it's as Paul described, a
pop-up lid. I wasn't sure from the other pictures whether we were seeing
just a tray that moved out towards us, possibly pushing a cover aside as
it did so. It's those motorised trays that have the paperclip-hole.)

You might be able to get parts by looking on ebay etc. for one that is
sold as no output, no display, or similar - _if_ you could ask the
seller if the open still works. (Or more accurately, if you ask _and
they reply_ [and say yes]!) Although I'd be very wary of the stripdown
procedure needed, with no service diagrams (and possibly without any
special jigs/tools needed).

>
>The tuner still works so it's not a total loss.

If it's only the _mechanism_ of the cover that's failed, and you can't
(or daren't) fix it, I wonder if you could - very carefully, and
possibly needing some solvent - detach the circular part of the cover
from the pivot part, so you could manually lift it off to place and play
a CD. If you try, look out for lugs - it's probably not just the
circular part it appears to be. (You could cut any such, but [a] that
could eliminate any chance of eventual repair [unless you got hold of a
whole cover assembly], and [b] watch out for any switches - or even just
photosensors - that might prevent the player operating if it thinks the
cover is open. [It shouldn't not operate if it's _shut_, as presumably
the unit wasn't designed to sulk if you powered it off with a CD in.])

>
>In passing, I thought you might be interested in my mrimg log.
>
>https://postimg.cc/GH5zqzTH
>
>
>
>Thanks
>Robert

--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

Often at work I wish they'd pay me what I'm worth, but sometimes I'm glad they
don't. (BrritSki, in uk.media.radio.archers, on 2000-12-25.)

[Paul]

There is enough material in the 8500 backups, to
cause an older backup to be erased. That's if they
all went on the same 2TB drive.

Paul

[Robert in CA]

All the 8500 backups are on the 6TB external hd and the 780's are on a
2TB external hd.

It doesn't delete them automatically but instead tells me there's not
enough room to complete a backup. So I usually have to delete the
mrimgs manually. That's why I went to the 6TB external hd so I could
have more mrimgs in case one was bad or something. Do you think I
should delete any?

I've also noticed that Macrium has automated the mrimg process allot
although I still keep the procedures as a guide. Now, once I key in the
destination and give it a name and click next, it takes off.

It's still a little bit unnerving to pull the USB cable after I get out of the PE
environment but we couldn't figure another way to safely remove it. So I
pull it once the screen goes black.

Thanks,
Robert

[Robert in CA]

Thanks but I'd rather not mess with it. I could easily make it worst.

Robert

[Paul]

If the PC goes through the normal OS power-down
sequence, at least one flush() will be sent to the drive.
It should be safe at that point.

Paul

[Robert in CA]

Yep,. that's when I pull it.

So far no issue's and the external 6TB works great.

Thanks again for helping pick the case for it. I like
it quite a bit although at first I had to get use to it not
running until I connected it.

It's also allot easier for me to tell the externals apart.
When I was using a 2TB external hd for the 8500 I had to
make sure which was which even though I had them
labeled. With the 6TB external hd there's no mistaking it.

Thanks,
Robert