Apple Trellis Question

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Greyphase

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Mar 19, 2014, 4:31:01 PM3/19/14
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I have plans to build an apple trellis this spring. The trees will be on B9 rootstock. I had hoped to keep the top of the trellis at 6 foot so that I could prune and pick apples without the use of a ladder. I've been told that at 6 feet tall B9 trees will "bush" out. Does anyone have any experience with a "short" trellis?

Rick

John and Annette Trout

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May 1, 2014, 10:12:03 PM5/1/14
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Rick, have you gotten any responses to this question?  I'll be glad to help if not too late.
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Prof. Kent

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May 3, 2014, 2:46:26 PM5/3/14
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I don't have any trellises... yet.

Greyphase

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May 9, 2014, 6:34:01 AM5/9/14
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Hi John

I've plunged ahead and built a trellis 80 feet long and 6 feet high. I spaced three wires at 3 feet, 4 1/2 feet and 6 feet.  I've planted one G11 and  6 B9 trees with room for 5 more next spring.  I know the tall spindle is the favorited trellis but felt that it would be too high for me to comfortably work on the trees. I guess time will tell if my idea was a good one or not.

Rick


On Thursday, May 1, 2014 10:12:03 PM UTC-4, JOHN ANNETTE Trout wrote:


Kent Eddy

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May 9, 2014, 1:28:04 PM5/9/14
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I started a 32 tree espalier orchard a few years ago, planning the same heights as yours. Flood, rabbits and deer destroyed it. Only a few trees left. I think I'll try my hand closer to home so I can keep an eye on it better. (It was 1/2 mile away behind my brother's house. Now that he's back in the state I'll let him manage it.)
My plan for the short trellis was to have some apple trees that could be covered with tarps when we have our frequent, late Spring frosts during blossom time. I could cover them up and start a charcoal grill under the tarps to save the blossoms.


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Greyphase

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May 9, 2014, 7:06:34 PM5/9/14
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Hi Prof Kent

I'll be using window screen for rabbit, mouse, vole control and 6 ft fencing for deer control. Here's a pic, don't have all the posts for the deer fence up yet.

Kent Eddy

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May 10, 2014, 10:28:00 PM5/10/14
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Those poles look like they are there to stay!

Prof. Kent

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May 13, 2014, 2:39:13 PM5/13/14
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Post a video on Youtube for the Group. We do video blogs (vlogs) as archives for our orchards. Its fun and interesting to look back on.
- Kent

John and Annette Trout

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May 14, 2014, 7:28:05 PM5/14/14
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I don't think you can go wrong, Rick, if the trellis is there good and strong.  You can decide spacing, height, etc....  80 ft. of trellis can support a lot more than twelve dwarf trees, but again, nothing wrong with giving them room to spread their wings out on the wires. 

John and Annette Trout

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May 14, 2014, 7:34:15 PM5/14/14
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I know you've planted now, but I don't think there is any harm in keeping the top at 6ft.  You'll lose some production that a taller tree could provide, but it shouldn't cause the tree to "bush".  Your pruning practices will make the difference.  Once your tree hits that 6ft. mark, don't prune the leader.  wait for it to set fruit and bend under the weight.  "Crop and Flop" is what they call that.  The leader may fruit at 8ft. tall, but will bend down under the weight.  The following year, select a new upright leader and prune off the flopped one.  It controls vigor in the top of the tree.  The trick is keeping the leader from breaking.  You'll need to prune enough apples to keep the weight just right.
 
If not for fireblight, I might have had some flopping this year  :(
----- Original Message -----
From: Prof. Kent
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2014 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: Apple Trellis Question

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Greyphase

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May 15, 2014, 7:11:05 AM5/15/14
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Prof Kent
I had some experience putting up high tensile fencing for cattle so just went the same way with the trellis.

John
Thanks for the tip on the main leader. I'll be learning as I go and should be a interesting experience.



On Wednesday, March 19, 2014 4:31:01 PM UTC-4, Greyphase wrote:

Kent Eddy

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May 15, 2014, 12:50:45 PM5/15/14
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John,

That's some good advise. I'd never heard of Crop-and-flop. That is probably usable for non-espaliered trees as well. I've had trouble limiting the growth of the top of trees when they were young (no fruit). Pruning the central leader never seemed to work. Pruning it AFTER it flops would work, I'm thinking.


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John and Annette Trout

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Jun 2, 2014, 9:44:02 PM6/2/14
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Most advice I give I pilfered from elsewhere.  But if I don't follow it, I aint sharing it!  Good luck.
----- Original Message -----
From: Greyphase
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2014 6:11 AM
Subject: Re: Apple Trellis Question

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John and Annette Trout

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Jun 2, 2014, 9:47:39 PM6/2/14
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Yes, Kent, it's all about vigor and where the tree wants to put on vegetative growth.  If we let those branches, whether central leader or scaffolds, fruit, vegetative growth slows way down.  There is middle ground where you need to thin the fruits to the point the central leader doesn't snap off though.
----- Original Message -----
From: Kent Eddy

Kent Eddy

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Jun 3, 2014, 3:41:35 PM6/3/14
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Sometimes it seems raising trees is like raising children: sometimes no matter what you do you don't get the results you were hoping for!

John and Annette Trout

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Jun 7, 2014, 6:47:20 PM6/7/14
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Amen to that......  love em' and pray  :)
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