Turtuk Temperature Today

[Rosamunda Froats]

Myjourney saw me start in Turtuk, a small village set atop the glacial moraine at one end of the Nubra Valley. This had not been my original plan, but I had been unable to secure the right permits from the military to visit Op Baba as a tourist. Turtuk is the furthest point any tourist can go in the Nubra valley. Less than a kilometre to the west is a military base, another just four kilometres further and a third high up amongst the snow capped peak, all protecting the border from Pakistani invasion. Attempts have been made on more than one occasion, the last being in 1999. But it's understandable given that Turtuk itself was once part of Pakistan until India forcefully took control of it in 1971. Yet today Turtuk is a very peaceful, friendly place. Intricate irrigation systems divert water through fields filled with barley hand weeded by large groups of women all of whom raise their heads and say "Jullay", a word of welcome. Apricot trees in blossom dot the landscape, while both a Buddhist monastery and Muslim mosque maintain a local following. People of different religions live side by side and no one seems phased by the military presence.

Namgyal, my guide and I set off early, the first of many days that will take me to Kanyakumari. As we walk, there is evidence of the military everywhere. Bunkers, metal bridges, a constant movement of trucks carrying military personnel to the various army bases littering the valley. Each look at us with a glare - why has a tourist come this far up the valley. I react in the same way to each - "Namaste", "Hello".

The local people remain friendly, offering us a seat in their restaurant, or a place to stay (we have yet to use the tent). They show no sign of reaction to military occupation. I suspect they are used to it, having lived side by side for so long. I ask one gentleman what it feels like to live alongside the army. His view is that they are a good thing. They build roads and schools, deliver food to the remoter parts of the valley and ensure the road remains open in the worst conditions. They make life easier for the people that live in the valley.

As we progress the landscape continues to impress. Huge glacial valleys dotted with boulders the size of a house at the bottom. A blue-green ribbon stream flows through the middle, meandering its way towards the direction we have come. Occasionally we see a path zigzagging its way up to a brightly coloured monastery covered with prayer flags. These prayer flags become common decoration for any household.

As we reach Diskit, we take the opportunity to visit the Diskit monastery, the jewel in the crown of the Nubra Valley. We arrive in time for the morning prayer, listening to the chanting and beat of the drum echo against the walls. Around us they are busy preparing for a visit from the Dalai Lama in July meaning the huge Buddha statue that overlooks the valley is having a spruce up, as well as new buildings being made and piles of wood for cooking being stored. It's incredible to see this level of organisation, but it's a very honorable moment for them, so they must impress.

As we near Khardung La, one of the highest motorable roads in the world, we try to take the short cuts to the road above us. We present our documentation at the check point only to be told it expires later that day and that we must reach South Pullu before dark. It's a further 30km, on top of the 19km we have already done that morning, adding to the 800m vertical we have already accomplished. After a quick lunch, we arrange to have our bags driven to Leh meaning we only need to carry the bare minimum. The tarmac turns to dirt, and as we climb higher it turns to ice.

Huge snowdrifts begin to envelop the road, while the temperature plummets. Walking becomes harder and harder and having not taken a proper break both Namgyal and I start to struggle under the conditions. I find myself unable to control my legs and I stumble on the ice, skidding around all over the place. After four hours of climbing, we reach the top. Jubilant, we celebrate next to a sign that tells us we have reached the top of the highest motorable road in the world. We can't stay long. It's 6pm and we must be on the move to get down the mountain to Leh before it gets too dark. And when we reach Leh, we can rest!

The original name used for Nubra Valley is Ldumra meaning the 'valley of flowers' It is situated in the north of Ladakh region. The average altitude of the valley is about 10,000 mtrs above sea level. The main settlements are along the shayok River and the siachen river. The river belt is sandy and the vegetation includes green Farmarisk and Myricaria. One of the unique features of the landscapes in Nubra is the sand dunes between Deskit (administrative center) Hundar villages.

An ancient trade route (a branch of the popular Central Asian silk route) used to pass through Nubra Valley and its imprints can be seen even today. The double humped Bactrian Camels of the silk route trade period still wander in the wilderness of the valley.Tourists require permits from the local administration in leh for a stay of maximum seven days in this strategically sensitive area. Six photocopies of the permit should be carried along by you to be submitted at the various check posts on the way.

Bus: The J & K SRTC (state road and transport corporation) operate a semi deluxe bus service twice a week between Leh and Nubra. The bus leaves leh early morning at 5.3 am. You can buy your ticket from Bus station of 3.30 pm a day before your journey. Ladakh private Bus Operators Union also operates a How to reach Nubra Valley Read more>>

Due to the high altitude the Nubra Valley weather conditions are mainly cold through the year. At an altitude of 10000 feet even the summers are cool and enjoyable. Summers are cool and comfortable and the winters are cold and dry. Temperatures drop rapidly during the night. Temperatures are frequently below zero forNubra Valley Weather Read more>>

The drive between Leh and Nubra involves negotiating the khardong-la pass (5602 mtrs above the sea level), which is considered the highest motorable pass in the world. The temperature and elevation differs, as one ascends, calls for necessary arrangements including carrying warm clothing and some cases. There is a check post (south-pullu) fourteen km before the summit where tourists need to show their permits.

There is constant maintenance and constructions work carried out on the khardong-la road to keep it open. Avoid any sort of misunderstandings with the road laborers, which tend to become unfriendly on slight provocation.

Once at khardong La pass (5602m), tourist and other travelers stop briefly for relieving oneself and photography before descending into the Nubra valley. There is another check post North-Pullu before you pass through the khardong village to get to the khalsar check post and then you finally enter the main part of the nubra valley. At khalsar, tea stalls and other eateries are obtainable. Soon after leaving khalsar, the road there parts into two one leading towards the panamik side and other to Deskit, where the administrative headquarter is based.

Deskit is the administrative center for the nubra valley; it is larger than the surrounding villages. Deskit has a sizeable number of shops and eateries which are a fine source of restocking your necessary supplies. The restaurants serve ladakhi, Tibetan, Chinese and continental dishes. There are quite a lot of guest houses with alike charges and services. These restaurants are close to each other making it easy for you to check out the suiting you.

The Village has a scenic monastery perched on a hill. It was founded by Lama sherab Zangpo of stod in 1420 A.D during the reign of king dragspa. About 100 monks are residing in the Gonpa. It is a branch of Thiksey Monastery. The monastic festival called Gustor takes place on the 20th and 21st days of the 12th month of the Tibetan calendar. The monastery overlooks the fantastic landscape of the Nubra valley.

Hunder Ladakh is located 7 km from deskit, On the way to hundar are the famed sand dunes of Nubra. A walk through these dunes along a small stream is a nice experience. You may come across double humped camel's of the way. Camels are mostly domesticated, but many are left uncared and untamed, especially males. These camels remind you of the silk, route period.

The name turtuk is an Turkish word which was exposed by two Turkish namely "chuli and Yangdrung" who wandered and came to this place and settled here. Today their generations ably back here as so-called race of chulipa and yangdrungpa in turtuk.

Turtuk Ladakh, being the mainstream of balti culture of baltistan lies on the historic trade routes between skardu, Yarkand "East Turkistan aka xijian", leh and Srinagar are restored the line of control had bisected the Himalayan silk route.

Sumur is opposite to Deskit on the other side of the river shayok. It has a large gelugpa order monastery called samstanling gonpa which is about half an hour walk from sumur. Next to sumur is the kyagar or tiger village as spelled wrongly on the milestone. In sumer one can enjoy camel safari.

Further away from sumur and tiger village is panamik village, which is known for its natural springs, having medicinal powers. The village comprises twenty-four families. Approximately 5 kms north of panamik is the fathest the tourists can go. Beyond this is the restricted area. Opposite to panamik on the other side of the nubra river, there is a picturesque monastery in ensa village. The monastery is accessible by road till the foothill on which it stands.

The highlight of your trip will be a visit to Turtuk Village. It is one of the last villages in India before the Line of Control (LOC) with Pakistan. Turtuk was under Pakistani control until 1971 and was opened to tourists in 2010. The village offers a glimpse into the Balti culture and traditions, different from the rest of Ladakh. You can explore the village, interact with friendly locals, enjoy traditional Balti cuisine, and witness the beauty of apricot orchards and the Turtuk River.

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