Proflow Starter Motor Review
Lyric Maro
As far as I am aware a 304 in a VK or VL used the same starter as a VC-VK 308. I have heard people say that there is some minor difference between red and blue 308 starters but never figured out what. I don't recall any difference between the full-size starter on VN 304 to VL 304. I know a VP 304 bolted straight into my HZ Overlander using the 4L60 flex plate to the TH400 in there already using the HZ's starter motor.
Looking at your photos the drive gear isn't sitting back into the starter like it is meant to. It should spring back into the starter housing when it is disengaged. Yours is right out at the end of its travel, might be a dud starter? The one in the VPW images looks the same though.
There are various different factory starters for external clearance but they all fit to the block and ring gear the same. Aftermarket often fit poorly (a lot of them are just Chevy small block with minor tweaks) and shimming is expected, not a problem once done right.
The typical indexable reduction starter (with an offset motor) eg. CVR/CAE/Mal Wood/Aeroflow starter packaging will not fit between the K-frame leg, extractors, and a large sump, in many LH-UC Toranas, but that is of course a different matter.
The spacer that needs to be made/sourced to fix this is something that fits axially between the starter motor adapting block and the starter motor working assembly, as SmacT has suggested.
Why on earth should this be necessary?
I have been so disappointed with Aeroflow starter motor products. I had two in a row that had different sounding drive problems and the pinion spring-back didn't work properly on either of them. They were the X-Pro style, so different to what is in this thread.
I need one as yours Heath - 11in flywheel, ASR 6.5lt sump, CAE headers, Tuffmounts, Mal Wood TKX bellhousing (won't take Bosch type starters). I will try Baxters, thanks Brett, and dig through your build thread Heath to see what you did for yours. Wish I could have that hour I wasted in the shed with this POS back. Ha ha.
The spacer that needs to be made/sourced to fix this is something that fits axially between the starter motor adapting block and the starter motor working assembly, as SmacT has suggested.
Why on earth should this be necessary?
Has the pinion engaging movement been assembled incorrectly to make the rest point too far out? Is this a factory fault?
There are two totally different starters for SBC. 153 or 168 teeth ring gear. The snouts of the starters are different and the blocks are drilled differently to accommodate the bolt pattern. Rather than try and explain it and add photos, they are all here:
Sure but the aftermarket ones that are mounted on an alloy block with no pinion support are a little different. I reckon 99% of those simply have a new alloy block swapped on without much thought to position.
Not sure you'd "need" a high torque starter unless you have some pretty serious compression. A new late model factory unit (VP-VT) is probably fine, they are not gear reduction but are higher output motors and smaller. If you get the version that has the solenoid pointing up rather than out the side clearance is probably better. Having said that I've had good luck with an "Excel" 35588 unit (only ever bought second hand so not sure where you'd get one). Its fairly compact and has a 1.3kW motor plus is gear reduction. Can be rotated into a couple of positions but doesn't help, can still be close to headers at the back edge of the solenoid. Can post a photo if needed to identify.
Alternators are tricky too, you need to figure out what RPM you are driving it at idle (pulley ratio) and get the details on the alternator output by RPM. Often the aftermarket 120A units don't even put out as much as a VN 85A one at idle which will be a problem if you really need that much output. I'm using a 140A alternator from an LS1 which puts out almost 100A at idle (2.1:1 pulley ratio and 925RPM idle) so no issues there, but does require pulley change for V belt, some minor fabrication to mount it, and the usual minor wiring changes. I'm also now having problems with the belt slipping at start since it loads up immediately, looking at options for a serpentine belt.
+1 on the starter motor but haven't actually fitted one up yet. Been advised by a few people that the old Commodore ones are ok, are smaller and with the solenoid straight allows for it to fit between the extractors. Cheers Ron
One other word of caution. Be very careful routing and installing the positive cable to the starter, It is easily shorted to earth or the other solenoid terminal, depending on the lugs used. I burnt out my first starter when the cable wore through onto the other terminal.
the E series and newer starter motor is a gear reduction(more torque) smaller starter that fits the V8 when you grind a bit out to clear the flywheel. (although it may not fit still if the pipes are massive like i've seen in some instances..if so, then you might need one that can have the solenoid clocked in different positions fully aftermarket)
I have B&M pan & aeroflow braided flexable dipstick on my C4 (pan fill/C10), I added a male to male fitting into the pan, then a female to female 90 fitting, then B&M dipstick adapter, then aeroflow dipstick. Standard pan & dipstick 'just' cleared my extractors, but also know @clevocortina copied my setup for his XD as he had clearance issues,
i dont no what all the fuss is about ,its usually the c6 that has clearance problems,pacemakers should fit straight in,i even put a set on my last 400 into xf and it worked with bulky std starter and c6 with flexible stick.
Designed and engineered in-house, Proflow products are manufactured to the highest of standards. Proflow products are computationally optimized and tested within their own engineering department. Rapid prototypes are created to guarantee perfect fitment, as well as pleasing aesthetics. Proflow take pride in every part they make. Remember, Proflow are the leaders in performance products!
Proflow starters exceed OEM specifications for maximum performance. These starters provide the torque necessary in high performance applications.
High-torque replacement starters that look like your original starter but pack a hidden surprise of high-torque cranking power! How do they do it? Easy - they combine an electric motor that is much stronger than a stock starter for serious torque.
Specifications:
Aeroflow high torque starter motors are serviceableand manufactured from aluminium with a multi-angle mounting block that allows different mounting positions to clear multiple header and oil pan configurations. The 1.4kw / 1.9hp starter is recommended for engines up to 400cu and 14:1 compression ratio and utilizes a 4.44:1 gear reduction. Aeroflow starter motors have high heat resistance and are powdercoated black for extra corrosion protection.
These lightweight units offer increased cranking speeds and considerably more cranking power than original units, whilst drawing less current from the battery. The units are ideal for road competition applications, especially where engines have been tuned and adverse conditions require extra performance from the starter motor.
All Powerlite starters are direct replacement for original units and require no modifications to the vehicle on which they are installed, as they work for both positive and negative polarity. The compact lightweight units are often easier to install than the original unit and units are modified where necessary to aid fitment.
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The second trial was a Pilsner with a gravity of 1.057. One batch of wort was split between two fermentors. Into a 3.7 gallon batch I pitched a pack of Wyeast 2278 Czech Pils yeast that was 4 months old. The other batch was slightly larger at 4 gallons, and I used an older yeast pack that was 6 months old. But this batch had its yeast made into a starter on the stir plate, and had oxygen added to the fermentor. The starter batch started first, but it took a slow 2.5 days to do so at 50-52F. The non-starter batch languished for 5.5 days until a dose of oxygen and a temperature increase to 58F coaxed it into starting.
Make sure the components you use are compatible and rated for your intended application. Contact manufacturer with questions about suitability or a specific application. Always read and follow manufacturer directions. tag:lnksfxd review:fermentapstirplate tag:tpr
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The XR650L is a dual-sport motorcycle, air-cooled 644 cc (39.3 cu in) SOHC dry-sump single-cylinder 4-stroke. Part of the Honda XR series. It was released in 1992 as a 1993 model. It combines the RFVC engine from the proven NX650 Dominator dual sport with the lighter, off-road capable XR600R chassis.
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