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Dardo Hameed
Like a figure in a fable, the self-taught chef lives hidden away on Sagecrest Native Gardens, a 12-acre farm in Earlton, Greene County. Here, Baehrel is a modern-day alchemist, exploring ways in which the natural offerings of this upstate New York property can be transmuted into ingredients for his fanciful, small-portioned tasting menu.
A dumpling made from wild daisy cores and cedar flour, encrusted with oven-dried, pine-needle-cured goose breast, sat upon a stone, skewered whimsically on a cedar tree offshoot. It looks unconventional, to say the least. But its creator encourages us to simply pick it up and take a bite. The goose breast, cured for 17 months, lends an unparalleled crunch to a pillow-soft dumpling.
The next taste, cubes of steelhead trout brined in sycamore sap for 27 days, sports a brown-and-beige spotted chip, a green paste, and an orange dusting. Baehrel discloses its components: The chip was toasted burdock root; the green paste acutely juxtaposing the bright-pink fish was pulverized from unripened green strawberries and pickerelweed seeds, thinned out with a mix of green strawberry vinegar, wild sorrel vinegar, and grapeseed oil; the light dusting comprised wild trout lilies and marsh marigolds for a touch of pepperiness.
The bread, served as a course of its own, was a blend of cattail, clover, and dandelion flour with a naturally occurring yeast Baehrel found on grapes. It is served with a velvety cow butter aged in cheese cabinets and dusted with wild angelica.
Finally, what appears to be a miniature ice cream cone is in fact an acorn-flour cone, whose dessert-like filling is made from white oak acorns, cooked in walnut sap, sweetened with stevia, and mashed into a tasty paste.
Various wild flowers, like this goldenrod bloom, are dusted upon plates to add vibrant coloration, as well as tart or peppery accents. Other plants used in this fashion are wild angelica, marigold, lemon verbena, milkweed, and sorrel.
So is it true that there is a 10-year waitlist to get a reservation at Damon Baehrel? And, knowing how much goes into each individual ingredient on every single plate across an astonishingly expansive tasting menu, can one man do it all on his own?
1. The bread, served as a course of its own, was a blend of cattail, clover, and dandelion flour with a naturally occurring yeast Baehrel found on grapes. It is served with a velvety cow butter aged in cheese cabinets and dusted with wild angelica.
2. Cubes of steelhead trout brined in sycamore sap for 27 days, sports a toasted burdock root chip, a paste from unripened green strawberries and pickerelweed seeds thinned out with a mix of green strawberry vinegar, wild sorrel vinegar, and grapeseed oil; plus a light dusting of wild trout lilies and marsh marigolds for a touch of pepperiness.
4. The final taste comprised an acorn-flour cone, whose dessert-like filling was made from white oak acorns, cooked in walnut sap, sweetened with stevia, and mashed into a tasty paste.
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Located in the Foyer del Palau, is a caf-restaurant with a modern cuisine based on tradition. With fresh and proximity products, it offers a breakfast service, an excellent daily menu, a very varied menu with different nutritional options, and special service before and after concerts and during breaks.
Caf Palau also has a privileged terrace, an authentic oasis in the middle of Barcelona, a perfect meeting point for lunch, for a drink after work or to meet with your friends and family at any time.
How did you decide to be an inspector? Can you explain the circumstances behind your decision? It wasn't a direct decision. I have always loved food, the hospitality industry, and particularly the restaurant world. I've worked in both the back and front of the house of restaurants. I've had an extensive career working in the food and beverage departments of some luxury hotels in New York City. I've always had an awareness of the Michelin Guide and its importance in the culinary community. I learned about the opportunity to become a Michelin inspector through the career services office of the culinary school I attended. It was an amazing opportunity that presented itself and I was compelled to go after it.
Was there some sort of training before you started your official duties?The training is extensive. Initially, I was paired with the senior inspectors and shadowed them for months of meals. This was an opportunity to understand what I should be observing and evaluating. The training occurred in my home market with the local team, but also included time spent with senior inspectors in France and the UK. Even as an established inspector, I have had the opportunity to work with and learn from my colleagues in Japan. And quite recently I've spent time in Seoul learning about (and experiencing) Korean cuisine.
How do you decide what to order in each visit? When choosing a meal, inspectors consider several questions: Which menu items best represent what it is that makes the establishment special or unique? Which items are the best expression of the statement the chef is striving to make with their cuisine? Which items make this dining room iconic or legendary? Which items are an authentic representation of the cuisine type?
What components make a winning dish? What makes for a superb meal? When considering a restaurant for a potential star award, Michelin inspectors are looking out for five key criteria: the quality of the products featured in the meal; the mastery of the culinary technique displayed throughout; the harmony of flavors; the personality of the chef expressed in the cuisine; and consistent excellence experienced between visits among various inspectors.
At the expense of sounding inappropriately blunt, how do you balance eating out that often and at that level, while considering your wellness? I imagine that eating multi-course meals ten times a week has some occupational hazards, such as worrying about your liver, or diabetes, or hypertension, or whatnot. That is an absolutely appropriate question. I think many would find it surprising to know that the global inspector team is actually quite slender. But of course, we have to be sure to exercise (walking or taking the stairs when possible is my personal mantra), monitor our alcohol consumption, choose wisely, vary cuisine types (limit the back-to-back foie gras), and try to stay on a schedule.
What would you consider the most difficult thing about being an inspector? Anonymity is paramount to the employment of a Michelin inspector. And remaining anonymous in a world where people publicly broadcast their every action and interaction is a challenge.
Wood River, Illinois may sound like an unlikely place for great Neapolitan pizza until you discover the wood-fired pies turned out three nights per week (and at Sunday brunch) by the founders of 222 Artisan Bakery and Goshen Coffee. The menu also includes small plates, salads, and a respectable wine list. 7 N. Wood River, Wood River, Illinois, 618-216-2258.
This neighborhood joint that's been around since forever is known for its cold beer and the excellent thin crust pizza that most patrons like to pair with it. 184 Washington, Florissant, 314-837-7783.
Now with three food trucks and a small brick-and-mortar location in Kirkwood, the Blues Fired Pizza offers a menu of 8-inch pizzas cooked in a wood-fired brick oven. 10800 Big Bend, Kirkwood, 314-822-1616.
The two Michelin-starred flagship is on Italy's Sorrento coast, so it's no surprise that the pizza here is authentic Neapolitan style, made all the more special when you watch the entire process from a counter seat a pizza toss from Casa's brick oven. Purists begin with the margherita, made here with a 48-hour fermented sourdough and fior de latte cheese. Classic perfection. 100 Carondelet Plz, Clayton, 314-700-1496.
The popular national chain (with two locations in St. Louis) offers brick oven pizza in three sizes, with choice of three sauces and 10 cheese options. The broad based menu also includes appetizers, calzones, burgers, sandwiches, salads, and desserts, as well as beer, cocktails and mocktails. Multiple locations.
From renowned restaurateurs Chris Kelling and chef Adam Altnether, Pizza Champ shares a building in Maplewood with Shared, from nearby Side Project Brewery. The menu includes a selection of ten, 18-inch sourdough crust pies, plus excellent salads, wings, and sandos. Orders can be picked up or enjoyed on a covered, four-season, outdoor patio, 2657 Lyle, Maplewood, no phone.
A masterfully accomplished pizzaiolo and his authentic oven are popping out superb pies in the heart of The Hill. One of the best is topped with thinly sliced roasted eggplant, garlic chili oil, parsley, and no cheese. 2024 Marconi, The Hill, 314-833-3734.
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