Dynojet Autotune Instructions

[Evelina Browder]

Ihave found that the best way to set up a Dyno-jet kit in multiple and single cylinder engines is to remove it and sell it on Ebay. I have bought quite a few bikes with jet kits already installed and without exception I have ended up removing them to get my performance back. Believe me, I have tried to get them set up right, it just could not be done. The VFR has what is considered to be the best stock carburation of any bike ever built. Even with mods like a slip on or K&N filter the stock carbs offer enough adjustability to account for the changes. Usually just opening the pilot air screw another 3/4 turn, or going up one pilot jet size, will remedy any low end leanness brought on by engine mods.

I'd have to agree. IF you need to you can shim the STOCK needles up a step or two to make it a bit richer in the mid-range. On my '97 with a big baffled Staintune at altitude (5500') I'm running stock jets, needle shimmed up ONE step and 1 1/2 turns out on the pilot screws. Plugs look perfect, runs great. The Factory Pro instructions are great for tuning.

ill just part out the dynojet kit on ebay, i dont want somebody to buy this for there VFR like i did. ironically last year i put a dynojet power commander with the autotune wideband o2 on a Husqvarna TE310 dirtbike and it never ran right either, lol

I do remember looking at a dyno graph some years ago, running just a laser race can on a standard system with a K n N filter which did run a touch lean at the bottom and mid range. Showing Low 90's HP and no dip at 5000rpm as standard bike with a smooth curve all the way up.

Second option would involve Slick, Carl Foggarty's mechanic who is based locally to me here on the isle of man to do a few dyno runs and get his help fine tuning.. but am sure this will mean extra expense ....

I do have another track day in 2-3 weeks time with a few classic TT bikes and riders as they practice for the Manx GP / Classic TT and would need bike running as it does now... which is good enough i suppose..

So I decided to purchase the autotune module for my PCV because I was not getting the results out of the Dynojet Map I downloaded that I wanted and could definitely tell I had a giant flat spot in the midrange. I also am not running an exact setup the map was intended for (different air filter K&N instead of DNA). Also there isn't any dyno tuning shops closer than 5hrs away so what is the next best thing......Autotune. So after doing some research the consensus was I needed to weld a second bung in the exhaust for the auto tunes wideband O2 sensor because of the way the ECU handles the open loop and closed loop conditions, and also the PCV manual states to continue using the stock O2 sensor even while using the Autotune on the FZ-07. So I did a little more research on the topic and found that they sold these little thingies on ebay called "O2 Eliminators" so I did some research on those. People were saying not to buy them because they trick the ECU into running in closed loop only which in this case of the FZ07 is what we all know as "ECO mode" but on some bikes it does not matter and the O2 elims work. Yay let the fun begin. What Eco mode does is let you know the bike is being ran in a fuel efficient manner and at this time the ECU uses closed loop to achieve a target AFR of 14.7 or so for fuel economy this is definitely NOT what we want for complete control of fuel tuning. The more I dug into this the more I learned. Alot of guys on forums (not just for the FZ-07 but other bikes as well) where saying that if you want to tune with wideband tuning you want the bike to be running in OPEN loop only IE unplugging and completely removing the stock O2 sensor, replacing it with Autotune wideband and allowing it to completely take over the fueling of the bike. Now this completely contradicted what Dynojet told me to do. They told me to remove the stock O2 sensor, leave the O2 optimizer plugged in and use autotune. Well that doesn't make any sense as on the PCV instructions for the FZ-07, the stock O2 sensor is needed to allow the optimizer to work properly.

Absolutely confused at this point and stuck in a rabbit hole that was way too deep to climb back up, I reached out to forum user here by the name Norcal616 as I knew he was running autotune on his FZ-07 and get his thoughts and experience with it. He stated that he was using autotune along side the stock O2 but the results he was getting were a little lackluster and was not what he expected it to be. So I started researching other fuel controllers for this bike to see what they had to say regarding the stock O2 sensor. I came across a thread on this forum here about the Bazzaz fuel controller. Looked into the installation instructions and they state to unplug the stock O2 sensor. This is when I had that lightbulb go off in my head. They are making the bike run in open loop and letting the controller handle fueling all the time. But then I thought "won't that throw a check engine light code on the dash?". So I got my trusty service manual out and traced down the O2 sensor codes and to my surprise, it DOES NOT throw a code or indicator on the dash if unhooked. After more conversation with Norcal616 I decided against welding a second bung on my Akra Ti as it already supported an 18mm bung for a wideband but had a reducer for the stock O2. I completely removed the stock O2 sensor along with dynojet's optimizer and just taped up the O2 connector to keep moisture out. Installed the Auto tune and wideband O2 hooked it up to the PCV and made a custom AFR map.

Started testing with the Auto tune and by the 3rd ride this bike was a completely different machine. Throttle response out the butt and the flat spots were eliminated. After a few sessions of accepting trims it was easy to see how far off the map was for my climate and geographic location and it was pretty far off. No codes on the dash so far BTW for the stock O2 not being used. The first few rides I noticed a horrible decrease in fuel mileage, I burnt through a whole tank of fuel in no time. But now after about 10 rides and a few adjustments to the AFR table the auto tune is pretty much spot on and the fuel mileage has returned very close to what it was before.

So what I've learned from this endeavor is if you want to get an autotune and get the most out of it, remove the stock O2 sensor and O2 optimizer if you have one and let the PCV handle all the fueling all the time. It has made my bike a completely different beast. This thing has instant throttle response now from any RPM and it runs so much smoother and crisper.

Sorry for the long read and hopefully this will help others out......Keep the rubber side down.

EDIT: The thread I found on here regarding removing the Stock O2 sensor was NOT for the Bazzaz fuel controller, it was for the EJK fuel controller. Although the Bazzaz does also recommend the removal of the stock O2 sensor. Here's the thread -sensor-ejk

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yea it been a fun adventure- learned alot also...

just using the AutoTuner to monitor the generic download maps or custom PCV maps created on a dyno is probably more than okay for most ppl to keep the engine output pretty consistent no matter...

the tricky part is running your own custom maps without a visual reference of a dyno graph from using a dyno machine to show you the difference between running 13.6 AFR in one area when it should be 13.2 for example to get a nice smooth dyno graph...

I was running the ECU flash from 2WDW for my exhaust at first.. then a few months later got the Hordpower Airbox and the PCV, then a few weeks later the AutoTuner...at first it was running meh/okay but I knew it could using some tweaking, nipping and tucking of the fuel tables...

now almost 18months later I have to send my ECU back and have 2WDW put it back to stock spec, remove the speed limiter,lower fan temps and keep the deceleration injection off rather than turn it on to lessen the engine braking...I believe the AutoTuner is reading the deceleration injection and sees the AFR got richer so it offers a "number" to trim...the more I accept the trims the worse the off throttle response got...and buy a Yoshi exhaust ?since Hordpower built his maps using the Yoshi Exhaust...

the PCV default is at 250rpm increments, way to sensitive for the FZ'07 270 fire pattern so I put it at 500rpm increments

You can run both the stock o2 sensor and wideband sensor if you tell the wideband to ignore the closed loop area otherwise they will fight each other...

I will admit it would be super helpful to see a dyno graph of the engine data rather than just AFR numbers to help me easily picture whats going on...

I that using stock o2 sensor is pointless if your trying to get the most performance outta the bike. I run an EJk w/ stock o2 sensor unplugged and I installed an aftermarket digital wideband o2 sensor and gauge. The ejk controls all fueling and my gauge shows me what's up. Instant throttle response instead and power at all times.

Another thought. I was watching a few videos last night of people flash tuning their ECU's and noticed on the liter bikes and most inline 4's, their ECU flashing software had the option of disabling the O2 sensor. When I watched jakethegardensnake's video again where he went into the FTECU software I noticed for the FZ-07 that option was not there unless it was under a category he did not go into. Interesting.

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