Setting up Cooling Fan Control

[BusyBotz]

I printed a very nice cooling duct by Ultibots, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29985

The part I'm stuck on, is how to hook up the fan to RAMPS 1.4. I am using Slic3r 0.9.3, so I have the options for controlling a cooling fan. 

What do I set in Marlin, and, which pins on the RAMPS board? I can find references to pins.h and such, but I need more of an overall picture on how to set this up. Does this require a 3 wire fan?

Thanks! Small prints are mushy, or they take forever by slowing down.

[John Losche]

real simple, the fan 12V, 2 wire leads goto connector 9 on the power end of the ramps.   silc3r can setup the fan during the print or you can turn it on/off with "m106 S255"/"m106 s0" or m107 from ponterface

nothing to change in marlin

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[BusyBotz]

Oh come on that is too easy :)

My PS is 24V into the RAMPS, with a 12V step down. OK if I wire the fan + to 12V, and the - to D9 - ? That is how the nozzle heater is wired, but it seemed odd to "mix" voltages.

Thanks for the help.

[Alex]

The step down + is providing the actual 12V for the fan (which should be the fans rating).  D9 is the ground (return) and the ucontroller is turning the fan on and off by switching that line on and off.  Not mixing voltages.

Related note, does anyone have a beefier version of this duct?  I keep having to replace because the hinge mount is really weak.  I like the long belt mount. 

I see cake has a modified mount for short, looking for an improved duct side hinge/pivot too.

[BusyBotz]

Thanks Alex. I came to that understanding when I did the initial wiring for the J-head, but at first it seemed counter intuitive. 

The mount does seem weak.

-Mitch

[John Losche]

Yea too easy...not sure how the 24v to 12v stepdown wires to the ramps (although I will have to deal with that when I get the y-axis upgrade next month).    So the ramps is running at 12V after the stepdown (for the extruder?)...so D9 should be at 12V as well?   And the bed is at 24v.

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[BusyBotz]

RAMPS is at 24V. Maxbots' wiring diagram here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dawgdayz/7580688088/

Bed is 24V, fans and nozzle heater are 12V.

I have the fan mounted and running first print. It responds properly to M106, I can set it anywhere from 0 to 255.

Is there a way to check the fan speed during a print?

[verohomie]

Alex -

The Alibre source file is http://www.thingiverse.com/download:87978.

It would be pretty easy to beef up.

Thanks for using my fan duct.

Brad

[verohomie]

Alex -

I uploaded v2.1 with a beefier hinge found here http://www.thingiverse.com/download:93889

Hopefully it solves your concerns.

Please post any other suggestions directly at Thingiverse.

Brad

On Sunday, October 14, 2012 2:26:00 PM UTC-4, Alex wrote:

[Alex]

Awesome!  Thanks Brad.

Same long mount or will there be a new one too?

I'm going to print this out as soon as my replacement Polou come in.

Thanks so much!

[verohomie]

Alex -

The beefier mount is 5mm shorter.

This fan duct works well with AlephObjects Supa-Flat X-Carriage thingiverse.com/thing:10646

What x-carriage are you using?

Brad

[Tim Hester]

Sent from my BlackBerry® PlayBook™
www.blackberry.com

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From: "verohomie" <br...@verohomies.com>
To: "mend...@googlegroups.com" <mend...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: October 15, 2012 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MendelMax] Setting up Cooling Fan Control

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[Gert van den Berg (MoHaG)]

On Monday, October 15, 2012 1:55:17 AM UTC+2, BusyBotz wrote:

RAMPS is at 24V. Maxbots' wiring diagram here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dawgdayz/7580688088/

Bed is 24V, fans and nozzle heater are 12V.

Converting the Nozzle to 24V is quite easy... Look for the 22ohm/27ohm version of any of the resistors recommended on the J head page on the RepRap wiki. I posted an RS link elsewhere...

At RS, 24V fans cost about the same as 12V ones... Might be useful if you try to eliminate the voltage converter...

The RAMPS are supposed to have 2 independant voltage rails. It might be possible to run one at 12V and one at 24V, haven't really researched that yet...

Gert

[cake]

Well the duct itself is a great design, I find that the only weak point at least for me printing with a .5 nozzle is that the center tab is completely unnecessary. If you like I could adjust the mesh of the mount you use to ignore the center slot as for when it prints on my printer it is literally just a single line of plastic on the duct, not even a complete perimeter. The outer tabs are strong enough I find to unwarrant redesigning the mounts on the duct itself. could use an extra perimeter on the duct itself though, it is rather thin.

[Triffid Hunter]

On Wed, Oct 17, 2012 at 9:23 PM, Gert van den Berg (MoHaG)
<ger...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The RAMPS are supposed to have 2 independant voltage rails. It might be
> possible to run one at 12V and one at 24V, haven't really researched that
> yet...

The bed can be run at a different voltage, however hot-end, fan and
motors all run from the 5A input.

If you want to run everything at a different voltage, run bed power
into the 11A port, motor power into the 5A port, then connect the +ve
for fan and nozzle heater direct to their respective supply and only
run the -ve via ramps. Ensure that all grounds are connected together.
The 5A and 11A ports on RAMPS have the grounds connected together on
the board already.

I currently have my bed, nozzle and motors running from 28v. I set my
PID_MAX to 50 to keep the nozzle heater power under control. I got a
small LM2596-based buck converter from ebay to run my fan. It works
well :)

[Jim Buddenberg]

I have mendelmax with marlin. when I put a volt meter on terminals D9 between hotend and bed connections and give it the  M106 command in printrun I get no voltage. even with M106 S255. does it have to be printing to work?

On Sunday, October 14, 2012 12:06:22 PM UTC-5, vastempty wrote:

[Jim Buddenberg]

On Sunday, October 14, 2012 12:06:22 PM UTC-5, vastempty wrote:

[Sean Mitchell]

I assume you're using RAMPS? 

You will need to have your 12v (or 24v) power supply powered on before you see anything there.  Printing is not a requirement, as M106 S255 should turn the fan on.

Also remember that it really depends how you have your voltmeter hooked up, because you are switching the "ground" on and off to turn the fan on and off.  You should always see voltage there (even when it's off) when comparing to ground.  If you're not seeing anything then I think your power isn't on.

If that's not it, can you describe what you have hooked up and where, especially what you are testing with your voltmeter (where are the two probes hooked to?)

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[Jim Buddenberg]

yes I am using ramps 1.4. and wanting to control the fan through slic3r. I am using marlin. and thought I am suppose to use d9 to vary the fan speed. areb you saying I need to run 12volt positive to the fan and the negative to d9?