I’m no expert in the topic, so I guess let me try to fill in what I think I know, and hopefully it helps.
As far as I understand, the stepping settings is defining how many steps for a full turn of the motor shaft. So in 1/16, 16 steps for a full turn, 1/8 would be 8 steps for a full 360 deg.
So I guess to your question, would you notice, I would say it depends. What is the motor turning, how fine of detail is it? A low tooth count gear/pully, etc and you’re most likely going to introduce slop into the print because can’t get super fine resolution when its moving in large chunks. All of my printers have been 1/16, so I can’t really give you any base of comparision. So would you notice? Maybe? If you want the best possible result, 1/16 is the way to go (this assumes your using a fine threaded Z rods, and something like GT2 or better pullies / belts).
Again I could be way off here, here’s a link though I just found that explains a stepper motor more http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepper_motor
Best regards,
Colt Majkrzak F5CI, F5SE
From: mend...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mend...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Zander McHade
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2012 9:39 AM
To: mend...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [MendelMax] Re: R.A.M.P.S vs R.A.M.B.O
I'm a little disappointed that there hasn't been more explanation on this. I am very curious about this as well.
On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 12:41:28 PM UTC-7, coreformula wrote:
Is there a big difference between the 2?
Would I see a difference between 1/16 and 1/8 micro-stepping?
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I'm a little disappointed that there hasn't been more explanation on this. I am very curious about this as well.
On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 12:41:28 PM UTC-7, coreformula wrote:Is there a big difference between the 2?--Would I see a difference between 1/16 and 1/8 micro-stepping?
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RAMBO is a no started for me simply because you can't replace the stepper drivers easily in the even of a disaster.
On the 1/8 vs 1/16, I'd challenge anyone not running a Aluminatus to actually see a difference in print quality caused by microstepping or lack thereof
- if it actually was perceptible, simply go to a .9 degree motor and the "real" step resolution....
RUMBA is a damned good alternative, and I've already got a couple of them ordered.
Both of the above are dead in the water the minute someone ports Marlin or Repetier to Due or another modern ARM processor.
I know of an effort with Repetier to port to both a TI Stellaris and a DUE.
Personally, I'm going to spend some cycles trying to figure out a clean way to use a old trust and true RAMPS board with a DUE - just need to do some jiggery-pokery on the MOSFETS to work around the 5 volt trigger voltage....
On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 2:41:28 PM UTC-5, coreformula wrote:Is there a big difference between the 2?Would I see a difference between 1/16 and 1/8 micro-stepping?
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There is absolutely no benefit to perpetuating the "2560 culture" either. You'd be hard pressed to find a worse value for your $13. Forward thinking is to move toward a new paradigm that gives at least a little overhead for new bells and whistles.
The 2560 works fine, but it's expensive and running pretty near its limits as it is. With a more powerful processor, you might be able to do more fancy things with the ramps or combine in new hardware like encoders. I use RAMPS without complaints, but I don't think there needs to be new boards based on the 2560, ESPECIALLY if there isn't much benefit to sticking with the Arduino platform.
On Monday, December 31, 2012 12:23:20 PM UTC-7, Maxbots wrote:There is absolutely no benefit that I can see to porting Marlin to an ARM. It runs fine on an Arduino, why give it more horsepower than it needs? The whole point of running a more capable processor is to add new features that we don't already have, so until new firmwares are available that actually take advantage of the new controllers, I see no reason to upgrade and a lot of reasons not to.In the long run, we will all move to ARM controllers, but for now I still recommend sticking with RAMPS or a derivative until the firmwares are more robust.On Mon, Dec 31, 2012 at 11:01 AM, John Driggers <jdri...@gmail.com> wrote:
RAMBO is a no started for me simply because you can't replace the stepper drivers easily in the even of a disaster. On the 1/8 vs 1/16, I'd challenge anyone not running a Aluminatus to actually see a difference in print quality caused by microstepping or lack thereof - if it actually was perceptible, simply go to a .9 degree motor and the "real" step resolution....
RUMBA is a damned good alternative, and I've already got a couple of them ordered.
Both of the above are dead in the water the minute someone ports Marlin or Repetier to Due or another modern ARM processor. I know of an effort with Repetier to port to both a TI Stellaris and a DUE.
Personally, I'm going to spend some cycles trying to figure out a clean way to use a old trust and true RAMPS board with a DUE - just need to do some jiggery-pokery on the MOSFETS to work around the 5 volt trigger voltage....
On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 2:41:28 PM UTC-5, coreformula wrote:Is there a big difference between the 2?--Would I see a difference between 1/16 and 1/8 micro-stepping?
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The only reason to use a 2560 based board is the RAM and the IOs, which none of the main firmware distributions are taking advantage of (to the best of my knowledge anyway). Having more IOs is nice if you're hacking, but other than that there's no real reason to want one over a cheaper board.
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Considering where things are going it only makes sense to move to an ARM processor. The cost of an Uno is $25-30, the cost of a Pi is $35, and I can SSH to it. Yeah, I know just slapping some drivers on a Pi won't make it a motherboard for printing but I'll be damned if they don't make an awesome Arduino replacement. With the exception of the ADC of course, but I can live with that.
On Mon, Dec 31, 2012 at 7:40 PM, ChrisHS <chris...@googlemail.com> wrote:
The problem with Many more IOs is that usually means BGA parts.Not cheap or mod-able at home if something isn't broken out.
Also anything with 'high' frequencies needs controlled impedance tracks so more care in PCB design, termination, matching path lengths, ground bounce, decoupling, victim & aggressor signals, power planes, more layers etc......'High' frequencies are edge change rates not clock speed.50 or 60 Hz through a fast buffer will cause ringing on a not very long unmatched line.So you can't buy a quick chip & run it at a slower clock rate.Some chips do have slew rate setting that does reduce the problem by slowing the IO, still a bodge but usually good enough which is why they include it as a feature.Quote: "For every Nanosecond of Rise Time, you can get away with about 1 Inch in length before Transmission Line Theory becomes a Significant Factor." from here http://www.sabritec.com/technotes/PDF/High_Speed_Digital_Tutorial.pdfYou could use a second 'simple' 2560 board to split the CPU load but that's a bit of a waste if you are aiming for Arm.Code looks simpler on arm as less math to work around, 2560 being narrow data processing.
On Monday, 31 December 2012 23:10:16 UTC, Lee wrote:--The only reason to use a 2560 based board is the RAM and the IOs, which none of the main firmware distributions are taking advantage of (to the best of my knowledge anyway). Having more IOs is nice if you're hacking, but other than that there's no real reason to want one over a cheaper board.Yes, but compared to ARM chips, the RAM on the 2560 is on the low end. Also there are tons of ARM chips with as many or more IOs as the 2560 -- some that cost half the price! There are cortex-m4s available that run at 10x the clock speed with double the RAM and at least as many IOs for 20-30% less cost. I just feel like I'm wasting my money every time I buy something with one of those outlandishly expensive 2560s on it.When Aladdin flew to a whole new world on his magic carpet, I'm sure it wasn't controlled by an atmega 2560. ^_^
--Failure is just success rounded down. - T-RexSent from your iPhone.
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I’m no expert in the topic, so I guess let me try to fill in what I think I know, and hopefully it helps.
As far as I understand, the stepping settings is defining how many steps for a full turn of the motor shaft. So in 1/16, 16 steps for a full turn, 1/8 would be 8 steps for a full 360 deg.
Again I could be way off here, here’s a link though I just found that explains a stepper motor more http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepper_motor
2012/12/31 John Driggers <jdri...@gmail.com>RAMBO is a no started for me simply because you can't replace the stepper drivers easily in the even of a disaster.With *modern* allegro drivers, the only way to fry them is to connect/disconnect the stepper while it's powered on.
I think once you know it's a dumb thing to do, there is very little chance you will do it.
There is a port of Sprinter to the 4pi, which runs a chip very similar to what is on the DUE.
And on the smoothieboard, the smoothie firmware ( which shares much code with Marlin/Sprinter/Grbl ) nowadays has most of the features you'd expect from a reprap firmware, and prints just fine.
On Monday, December 31, 2012 8:02:11 PM UTC+2, Colt Majkrzak wrote:I’m no expert in the topic, so I guess let me try to fill in what I think I know, and hopefully it helps.
As far as I understand, the stepping settings is defining how many steps for a full turn of the motor shaft. So in 1/16, 16 steps for a full turn, 1/8 would be 8 steps for a full 360 deg.
That is the normal steps. Most stepper have 200 steps (1.8 degrees per step) in a revolution (some have 400 (0.9 degrees per step)). (This, with any kind of normal pulleys should give you several steps per millimeter, even without microstepping) (My pulleys with 16x microstepping have 800 steps per mm, without microstepping, it is 50 steps / mm - that is 0.02 mm per step, which is more than fine enough for just about anything...)
With the "microsteps" the stepper driver creates intermediate "steps" by using partial currents to the coils to move to a value between steps, rather than to a full step.
The torque, per-microstep is less (wikipedia has a table), but for each missed microstep (up to a full step), the torque increase. (Disabling microstepping will not magically cure missed steps, it will make more noise though..)
The main advantage seem to be smoother movement, resulting in less noise... (A slight increase in accuracy as well, as long as you don't skip microsteps, but the accuracy without it is probabably more than enough)
Again I could be way off here, here’s a link though I just found that explains a stepper motor more http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepper_motor
On microstepping, this is also quite nice: http://www.micromo.com/microstepping-myths-and-realities.aspx
Gert
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Absolutely, those are perfect examples of the reasons to move to ARM. My point is that until those features exist, there is little reason to upgrade.
On Mon, Dec 31, 2012 at 5:15 PM, Trevor Lewis <trevor...@gmail.com> wrote:Considering where things are going it only makes sense to move to an ARM processor. The cost of an Uno is $25-30, the cost of a Pi is $35, and I can SSH to it. Yeah, I know just slapping some drivers on a Pi won't make it a motherboard for printing but I'll be damned if they don't make an awesome Arduino replacement. With the exception of the ADC of course, but I can live with that.Actually I believe the Raspberry Pi makes a lousy Arduino replacement for our purposes. The IO pins on the Pi can't be switched fast enough to get suitable drive speeds out of the steppers. Ironically for all it's horsepower it is worse than a simple Arduino.
Trust me, your pulleys don't have 8-- steps per mm. The MendelMax ships with relatively small pulleys (~1/2" diameter-- 20 tooth, 2mm pitch) and we get 80 steps per mm at 1/16 step. If we went to single stepping it would be 1/16 that or 5 steps per mm.
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